grigor
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Posts posted by grigor
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Here you go.
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Fuel pump modulator.
Interested in the guys who've removed it.
You must have a constant earth fitted to the fuel pump?
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Yes, all of us silly buggers with thermo fans have been down this route.
Tridon TFS141 is the most used switch, 85 on, 80 off.
I think it's too hot for a bottom tank install, but the Tridon range is a bit limited in the M16 x 1.5 size.
Champion also make identical switches, available from REPCO.
Haven't seen an option for controlling the thermo fan via Datalogit.
Engine driven fans FTW.
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which forum member is sellin brand new 1000?
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ap...00#entry4004281
Looks like it didn't last long though.
Give Pattygtst a PM. She's a smart lady who won't be ripped off.
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a laptop is plugged into the pfc to tune it without the handcontroller.
No.
A laptop is plugged into Datalogit, which is then plugged into your PFc, if you want complete access.
You can't plug your laptop directly into the PFc.
Datalogit was around $500.
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Probably not since they're available again, brand new for $1000, with hand commander.
SAU forum member has been running a saga thread for a while.
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Every new PFc I've seen came with a magnificient piece of double sided tape to hold the ecu in place.
Worked OK.
Perhaps was yours a 2nd hand unit so no tape was available?
Either way, the shop should have explained.
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Asked this question is NS.com but no luck.
Bought an A31 LSD with half shafts to go in my S13, but the half shafts seem too long, by about 5-10mm.
Hard to estimate, they're just too long to re-fit the suspension.
So what's the go, have I been sold the wrong items.
Always thought an A31 was just a 4-door S13.
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I agree with 45ULT so here's my 2c.
Note the guys who've had no oil usage problems have "simply slapped an Rb25 or 26 head on an Rb30 block". Obvious thing here is no re-bore.
As soon as you re-bore you have heaps of decisions to make. Like piston brand, then piston to bore clearance, rings and the biggest, bore finish. Bore finish and hone is where the oil usage saga starts and engine run-in is where it ends.
A light hone on a good Rb30 block, new rings and you'll have a good engine.
Poor hone on a re-bored block and she'll be a smoker.
I won't go into the N1 oil pump dramas but my opinion is excessive crank end float.
But as I'm an old fart (with 3-Rb30 blocks in the shed) who's done way too many transplants, I'm over the whole Rb25/30 thing.
I've discovered the Aristo.
This baby comes with a 2JZtt and low K's half cuts are quite cheap. OK you're probably stuck with an auto but it's a terrific auto and a heavy duty multi plate clutch for a manual costs a lot more than an auto shift kit.
The good points:
It's 3.0L ready to go.
The 2JZ has an excellent cambelt set-up, auto tensioner unlike the bastard Nissan idea.
She has a front facing plenum.
It will have hydraulic lash adjustment, same as the Nissan. (The Supra 2JZ will have bucket and shim same as GTR)
The only bad points I've found:
2-ceramic turbos that can let go (same as Nissan) when over boosted.
Harmonic balancer needs to be replaced ASAP, then she's fine.
Manifolding is on opposite sides to Nissan which makes it tight around the brake booster.
A stock standard Aristo will surprise you at the strip, simply no fuss or noise. Up the boost slightly and they're rocket ships. On the road, stealth+
Go the 2JZ.
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Please don't come on this forum and insult peoples' cars and what mods they have.
Cheers
Mate, this thread should pack it in.
Why post a speedo vid, could have been going down a hill for all we know.
Everyone knows the 2835 is a bloody top turbo so now lets see some 1/4 times.
End of story.
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Does anyone know if the e-manage Ultimate has outputs that can be configured to operate thermo fans?
I've sent this question to the GReddy tech. support but no reply, so I'd appreciate some local input.
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Quote:
So if you see a black R34 with NSW plates...it's me, say hello if you can.
Think we were on Spirit with you????? We were in the heavily overloaded pearl silver Aristo from QLD.
Does your 34 has the left inboard tail light half dull. (very very nice car, loved the exhausts)
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Late edit They DO do a 0-5 volt MAF signal version of their stage 2 kit .
Modern controllers offer 0-5V auxiliary input measurement or boost or any combinations, you're certainly not locked into using only boost.
Once you've connected the laptop and accessed the software, you can alter ramp rates to whatever you want.
Most users go for the simplest to install option.
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another one to watch is car 711 of luck and johnstone. comming 19th in classic outright they are piloting an r32 gtst. its there 4th targa in this car and its taken a few years of R&D to get it right but this rear its pretty well on song.
Is this the black R32? She was smoking pretty badly but the Rb20's still going strong.
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Just buy one from the wreckers, it will work out cheaper.
A friend welded fuel tanks, all sizes from cars up to petrol tankers.
He works out the volume then floods the tank with Argon. Hearing his stories about welding inside petrol tankers, walking around with fuel up to his ankles, wearing all the breathing gear, frightens me to death...........
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I wish i still could keep the stock clutch fan, but it doesn't fit in my engine bay. Don't go thermo fans, they're shiet.
Too bloody right.
See how long the alternator/battery last running 2-thermos, lights etc. Mine does not like it at all.
First item to melt was the lug on the alternator's output cable, simply not designed for that large constant amperage drain.
Stock engine driven fan FTW. (if you can fit it in)
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LOL @ anyone saying the rev limiter would have stopped it.
Of course it doesn't. All it does is cut fuel.. If the engine is being forced to rev harder, then nothing is going to stop it..
Reminds me of the guy driving multi-tyred road roller, big hill behind Hervey Bay.
Cooked the brakes but he decided the compression would hold it....
Poor old Perkins did at least 10,000rpm, threw rods, pistons before she crashed and burned.
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the kit is designed to hook up to all the standard piping, both intake and exhaust. If you have a one piece front and dump pipe you will need to remove it and just get a normal replacement front pipe. the hks dump has the right flange to bolt up to a standard front pipe.
Not unless they've altered the dump. (my experience is 2 years back)
The HKS dump is quite short, only comes halfway down the firewall so you then need an exhaust shop to fabricate something down to the cat.
No dump to turbo gasket was available.
The intake side of the kit was designed for a pod setup. You can persevere and use the stock airbox but it's pretty tight in there.
The water cooling pipe from across the rear of the block is just dreadful.
It's about a 4-hour job, but the mechanic may find missing/broken manifold studs so ...........
You haven't mentioned which housing you intend buying, the 0.68 or the 0.87.
There's another decision for you.
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Yeah, it's from old gearboxes that don't have synchros...
The process was:
Clutch in - Move to neutral - Clutch out - Clutch in - Move to next gear - Rev Match - Clutch out
No that won't work.Try:
clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out, rev match, clutch in, select gear, clutch out.
With a heavy killer clutch pedal,
clutch in, shift to neutral, clutch out, rev match, select gear.
If you're doing thousands of gear changes, dropping just a few clutch/de-clutches is heaven.
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Like I guess the main thing is teach people how to drive so they don't hit them in the first place, but thats too logical.
EXACTLY.
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Like I said at the start, I saw the overseas tests regarding "bounce", but that argument falls over if the divider has a 1-impact life, which is the case for any I've seen.
For a central road divider, I like concrete. The bounce tests I saw weren't a glancing blow but rather at an impact angle of approx 40degrees. In this situation, the wires certainly grab and slow the vehicle instead firing it off at a tangent. But for a very acute angled impact, the vehicle just gets torn to bits.
For kerb side protection, nothing wrong with Armco.
Can you imagine the carnage if Bathurst was ringed with this stuff instead of Armco.
As for the unfortunate bikers, it's obvious they were simply forgotten.
Don't get me started on the signs.
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Any thoughts on these tensioned cable-on-post road dividers?
Queensland Transport has fallen in love with these things but I don’t like them at all.
I saw the tests done by the Swedes a few years back but there are items they missed.
Obvious one is bikes. Poor buggers may as well dive into razor wire.
The most serious one is maintenance, or the lack of.
In early December, a new section of road South of Gympie was opened using this divider. Within days it had been hit 2-times by South-bound vehicles. At least 20 posts bent in that direction and the wire sagged.
So what happens if a North-bound vehicle spears into these nicely angled arrows? And what use this sagging wire that might just come up to your sill.
It’s almost February, it hasn’t been repaired and what a job to fix. All that cable will be suspect so it must be replaced.
This particular design has the cable twisted between alternate posts. I saw the guys trying to finish it and they had crowbars, jacks the lot to get the final bit installed.
There are numerous designs, some with 4-wires, others have 5 and not all the designs use this twisted cable idea.
I can see the budget quickly disappearing in maintenance rather than in decent pavement.
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You still haven't had the road tune, and is your 72degrees correct????
Presuming your tuners haven't altered the PFc's settings, that means you'll be running between 5% and 10% rich on fuel.
Perhaps it needs a temp. sensor but the tuner should have picked that.
Useless "tuning" an ecu with incorrect inputs.
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I didn't know they still ran Watt's links but with these cars you never know.
The link is an old 70's idea to locate the rear diff. rather than a Panhard rod. (This is for a live axle, not independent rear end)
The idea was a rod ran from one side of the body to the lower side of a crank mounted on the diff housing. Another rod runs from the opposite body side to the upper side of the crank. So the body can't move sideways relative to the diff, but the diff can still move up/down within the limits of the rubbers etc in the link/crank ends.
So Pissed Off Need Help
in General Maintenance
Posted
What???? He already said it won't boost with the actuator hose disconnected and he's sure the gate is shut.
Doesn't matter what actuator you give him, he's got a problem.