grigor
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Posts posted by grigor
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Our police mistress said on the TV news last night that the cameras would be set at 1kph over the limit.
Now all of my cars are of an age where the standards for speedo accuracy was 10%
So doing the maximums math, and not allowing any tolerance on their equipment, I have to do 92 to register 101 on their camera.
92kph on a brand new freeway (Burpengary) that should have been signed at 110 anyway!!!!!!
Then allow a little less for the nervous types and you've got a recipe for multiple nose/tail collisions.
This is nothing more than a money grab hiding under the guise of road safety.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the USA and Au have a free trader agreement? So no duty and with the $Au so high, surely a much better deal is to be had buying brand new from the US.
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Taking stretch too far
QUOTE:
"This is, believe it or not, the world's first-ever Ferrari stretch limo: a
23-foot 360 Modena with eight seats and the biggest electric gullwing
doors we've ever seen.
It's the handiwork of Style Limousines in Manchester, which spent more
than £200,000 modifying the rear-engined 360.
All eight of the seats are carbon-fibre buckets with five-point race
harnesses - which might sound excessive until you discover that the
3.6-litre V8 remains, its 395bhp propelling the mega-Ferrari to 60mph in
under six seconds. Could prove a challenge not to spill your cheap
champagne.
Those gullwing doors are nine-foot long and were designed by one of the
teams responsible for the Mercedes SLR McLaren.
If you really, really feel the need to see the stretch Ferrari in the
flesh, it'll be debuting at the European Limousine & Chauffeur show this
weekend alongside Europe's biggest stretch Hummer."
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hey
heres a r33 one
Thanks, what I need is BNR34, I've got all the rest.
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I'm after the pin outs for a BNR34.
I believe they're the same as the BCNR33 except for a couple of extra wires for the immobiliser, but can anyone confirm this?
Please no search nazis, I've searched and this one seems to be real secret squirrel stuff.
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will the car stay still if you use 4th?
You're not thinking it through.
If you select say 1st or reverse, it's dead easy to crank the engine through the brakes.
Select 4th and the brakes at least have a chance of holding, and most importantly it's the strongest gear.
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put the car in reverse, get someone to put thier foot on the brake, and use a long breaker bar.
NO!!!!
You need the fastest gear in the box, not the slowest.
Unfortunately 5th is a relatively weak gear as it drives via the layshaft.
The strongest and fastest gear therefore is 4th (direct).
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Why are they going for so cheap these days? Is there too many coming into the country? Heck r32 gtst's can sell for more than $11K
Talk to the importers. They'll tell you there is a vast stockpile of Silvias and Skylines in open air storage, some on which have been sitting for 5 years!!!!!
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thats all well and good but in my case the stud has snapped off inside the head, so that eliminates welding something onto it to remove it...
No mine was exactly like that, recessed inside the head.
Just takes a steady hand and good eyes with a MIG.
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Leave it for the experts, you're only making matters worse.
I had exactly the same problem, same position.
I found it while the engine was out so I tossed it in the trailer and off to the local muffler fitter.
He MIG welded a washer to the remains of the easy-out and then welded a nut to that washer. After a couple of attempts, he unscrewed the broken easy out. (Our problem was we didn't know if it was an easy out or a drive in type of stud tool)
Then he MIG welded another washer down onto the remains of the broken stud, and then welded a nut to that washer too.
It unscrewed easy peasy from all the welding heat.
He's a great welder with steady hands and eyes that still work. Whole job cost me $25.
I'd rather remove an engine/gearbox than pull the head with all the associated gasket costs etc of re-fitting the head.
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I'm old enough to remember air travel in DC3's.
On take off, they'd hold the plane on the brakes and rev up the each engine, earth out each magneto and note the RPM drop from running on single ingition.
The pilot noted the power loss from running on 1-mag V's 2 and so long as the RPM drop was within specs, the engine was ready to go.
Twin plug ignition isn't just for safety, the extra power when both magnetos are firing is audible to any air traveller.
You need good spark to make power.
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A friend just installed this unit, about $380 ready to go.
It's not really suitable to move from car to car for tuning, like the 2AO, 2EO or LM1, more of a permanent installation.
But once it's connected to the laptop you're away. Add datalogit as per usual.
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this wouldn't happen to be gary's old one would it?
Don't know. Bought it unreg. from Rocky.
Anyway I'm over the rusty sill so now she's reg'd. and I'm going ahead with the transplant.
This old rocket will get my old Rb25 turbo, FMIC, split dump and GTR PFc.
She's going to be a gutter jumper, so she's getting a tow bar and nudge bar as well.
Nice!!!
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Problem with this thread is no-one is listing their mods.
A stock ecu will give very different results to a PFc equipped car that was originally tuned with a particular fuel.
I've taken all the variables into account up here, and the fuel is the culprit.
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Up in Gympie, only got the one BP garage.
Standard procedure on start up now, minus 1 degree on IGN.
Thought it may have been a crook tanker of fuel but its still happening so time for a look.
If one or two cells are right on the edge, you'll get knock from very minor external changes.
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Unless you've got a left hand drill bit I'd leave it to the "stud man".
I've been removing snapped studs with extractors for donkey's years, but I had one arrive on my jigger's engine with a snapped tool in it, the one at the fire wall too.
So I tossed the engine in the trailer and went to my mates at Gympie Exhausts.
OK they positioned a washer over the snapped tool and Migged it on in a flash.
Then they Migged an M10 nut onto that washer. Now you've got something to grab onto.
They had to decide if the broken tool unscrewed or was a drive in type. A few attempts and some WD40 and the snapped off tool complete with welded on appendages was out.
Next they did the same weld on washer and nut procedure to get out the actual stud, which unscrewed easily due to the welding heat.
Clean out the threads with a tap and she's ready for a set of new studs.
Cost $25 for the stud removal job.
Thanks guys.
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TPS plugs, RB20det man.
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PM's sent.
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1990 Silvia, Ca18 auto. Looks good but has some rust. $2000 PLUS Rb20det man, front member, clutch pedal, hydraulics, 4-pot calipers, rotors, master cylinder, radiator, etc for conversion. $1500. Available Gympie.
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Need a stock ecu for an R32 with Rb20det manual.
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Boost solenoid.
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You then proceeded to drive around and run a pedestrian over. You have no insurance, so that person will need to sue you to be compensated for their injuries which you caused, if you have no money, they don't get compensation, you get in a lot more trouble.
Then they sue the "Nominal Defendant" for compensation.
That's a fund where a small portion of your annual rego/CTP fees are automatically contributed to.
Unfortunately due to the high number of unregistered/CTP insured cars, the fund cops a caning.
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Did you really do this:
"When I installed my new crossover pipe I had to block off the bypass pipe that runs to the back of the plenum."
so how will it idle?
Maybe I missed something in that huge story.
Fixed Speed Cameras
in Queensland
Posted
Yes. 65 in a 60 zone, Melbourne.
My son scored, didn't realise, and he'd gone O/S by the time it arrived, so I paid it.
Turns out his bloody hire car was set on cruise control at 60, just to be safe.
Didn't work out though.