Paulusc44

Heya guys, Ive just completed HG, slipping my timing belt on.. Last time I did a timing belt on an RB I could hear a very faint noise coming from the harmonic balancer area, on closer inspection I can see that the very final timing belt plate actually gets pushed from back and loose the key-way at its most rear-ward position (where it wants to sit with timing belt on) this means it is free to rotate? Although it has a key-way hole cut into it? Why? it doesent naturally want to sit in the key-way? My only guess is perhaps I needed to put a little more torque on the crank bolt? Help haha Cheers again

Looks that way.. first time doing a HG, just wanna d check a few things before I go torquing shit up.. Couldent make sense of its purpose there anyway, now to find where its come from haha.. found it when prepping the head surface etc.. :S

Hey all, In the middle of doing my Head gasket as we speak and one of the locators (the small one) has popped out from the block when I removed the head.. I know theyre just push fit/remove but where does the small one sit in the block?!.. Im talking about the small cylinder shaped locators with a small split in them that sit just inside the block surface and locate the head and head gasket.. There are 2x main larger locators, theyre easy to find.. but the smaller one doesn't have an obvious fitting point? HAVE JUST CHECKED MY FACTORY NISSAN SERVICE PDF's AND NOTHING.. Cheers

Question.. Can I delete/re-route/loop my heater hoses? Ill simply run my turbo feed line for my turbo from somewhere else with suitable pressure (Theres a hundred places I could think of) I see no need for the hoses if Im going to remove the heater core + exchanger? Just extra piping for it too work its way through. surely I could Loop the feed straight to the return (on the block)?

Ugh, Im not gonna lie, it had a tuned EPROM in it for an R32 with the mods I had, absolute shit tune, I retarded timing and raised fuel pressure to 3.75 and then 4.00 kg/cm2, there was no knock to the ear, Im pretty sure a knock sensor would have picked something up on a dyno.. Intake, 2.75" Piping with GT-R sized I.C core, RB20DET A.F.M, RB20DET INJ, ADJ F.P.R, Walbro 255LPH F.P, Factory manifold w/ R34/VQ30DET N1 GT28/30 at 9 P.S.I.. Chipped Eprom (I always wanted to upgrade the Injectors, turbo, afm and supporting parts and was planning on getting NISTUNE Board Imported when I did, I have a mate up the road here in NZ with lisence etc.. Which is happening as we speak.. Ahh Heat exchanger.. Is that located inside/next to the heater core? And its Factory Manual so no Trans oil cooler in radiator if thats what you were meaning? Im unaware af a factory oil cooler on R32 GTS25 Type M's haha

Hey all, Currently doing many a upgrade to my R32 RB25DE+T.. Please take the time to read, all help extremely appreciated + theres some cool trick info some of you may not know.. CAR runs all sensible mods, factory boost, premium fuel + fluids and is treated with the up-most respect, engine was in good cond. so I thought.. Currently in the stages of upgrading my Head-gasket to an RB26 Item, along with new, genuine C/belt kit, genuine N1 6F Water Pump Etc.. Before the real fun begins Ill cut a long story short, I got this thing running properly a few weeks back and it was great fun, however I ended up plumbing both breathers right up before going on a drive one day, returned home, popped bonnet like usual.. and found my dipstick pushed slightly out of its tube (blow by), oil on the strut tower etc + a little oil in my coolant and vice versa.. NOTE: CAR NEVER GOT HOT, CAR NEVER BLEW SMOKE.. NOTE: Oil return from factory turbo was aftermarket, did not drain properly, caused oil back pressure in turbo core/seals.. Would this cause major damage? I opened up both breathers on the valve cover and went for another drive.. NO blow by at all BUT there was definitely more oil in my coolant and vice versa, car was NOT blowing any smoke at all.. I also noticed a small (very small) amount of oil by one of the M6 bolts on the back of the head.. So I at this stage thought the Head-gasket was gone and began going too work.. (With the motivation of a set of GTR 440's a Z32 AFM, oh and new compressor I got down to the Head-gasket expecting to see some damage but there visually isnt too much at all? Which I know doesent necessarily indicate that there is no damage, was just surprised.. BUT I did notice one of Head Bolts (Further-est rear, #14..) was a little tighter to remove and had some very light dry cooling system rust on it, rather than nothing but oil like usual.. The gasket was also slightly different in the area where the 14th Head Bolt sits.. slightly different in colour and feel. slightly. My question(s) is this: *Would/Could having both breathers plumbed right up + having a very poor oil drain from the turbo.. Possibly damage the seals in the core enough so coolant/oil could mix? *Is there any other way oil and coolant would have mixed due to the blow by in my crankcase etc? *Im 99% the Head-gasket is gone (I was so sure I didnt even PK test it).. but I was surprised to see the Head-gasket wasent visually damaged, is this usually the case or?.. *Finally, Its sweet to rotate the engine and check the bores, right? As long as I line it back up in the EXACT same position, this should be fine right? haha Cheers guys!

Just have one more quick question, that I have researched but Illl just clear it up with you anyways.. The R32/A31 Spec RB25DE has the same 87.0 mm bore as the S1 S2 RB25DET, correct?

I know T3/T4 Isnt an actual turbo sizing haha, Was just letting people know roughly what size of compressor I was planning on using, Cheers though sounds like the standard Nissan gasket is the way to go Hahaha yeah I have no idea why I put CP.. Was looking for CR haha.. I understand the Piston Crown and Combustion Chamber shape is what ultimately gives the difference in CR, but after researching the likes of the Tomei, Cometic gaskets etc and seeing the endless options in between 1.1 and 1.7 mm (some even slightly higher) to slightly change compression ratios I was wondering if Nissan had just slipped something super thin in the DE. Cheers for clearing that up man

Hey all, Have just pulled the head off my R32 RB25DE+T.. Which of course runs the current standard headgasket and a CP of 10:1.. How thick is the headgasket in the standard RB25DE? I know the RB25DET runs a CP of 9:1.. Technically the only difference between the DE and DET Blocks are the under-piston oil squirters? Im also upgrarding injectors to GTR 440's, AFM to a Z32 item and the turbo to a T3/T4 frame item, which will be running 10-12 PSI MAX @ est 220-230 KW Because Im only running a max of 10 PSI Im keen to keep the CP at the standard 10:1 but I'd quite like to go for a steel item, is this necessary at this boost level on the DE? If so what thickness are the standard 25DE headgaskets? Or am I simply best to get a genuine 25DE one from my local Nissan dealership? Will this hold fine? Info on where and what would be cool, all helps appreciated! Cheers again!

Yup fully agree they could of gone with a few options, and yeah sweet center out horizontally opposed is the way the FSM I just found describes.. Ive pulled an RB25 head down before but it was a couple years ago and couldent quite remember the pattern haha.. Cheers again bro

Hey all, Removing my head at the mo, I have found alot of files on the web (I do research before asking these things, just this is by FAR my most trusted forum) and although the torque specs are all the same, some of the info conflicted when it came to which order they should be installed/removed in. Does anyone have a link to or the correct info on which order it is for both removal and installation? Would be much appreciated Massive thanks again

No, I set this engine to the standard 15* using the cam and crank marks, then a light.. but I then backed the CAS off 2mm Clockwise which would equate to 12* timing..

Heya guys, have done a few times in the past, always like some back up info to go by though, does anyone have some decent links on how to correctly remove the head and replace head gasket, pretty straight foward I know, just keen for a link or two for some info to fall back on Cheers all

Yeah as soon as the breathers on the valve cover were un-plumbed all blow-by stopped, Im now 90 percent sure that the dip-stick being blown out of place was due to the crank-case not being able to breathe.. There is NO reason as to why my rings would have gone.. But All will be confirmed with a simple compression and then leak-down test Fingers crossed!

Thankyou Man, great reply! I have just opened up the breathers on the valve covers as they were both plumbed in, no blow by what so ever this time.. I only ever use synthetic Valvoline lubes (VR-1 or Full syn) and prestone coolants, all of the parts I use are genuine Nissan, well cherised car with 180,000 on the odo.. Im beginning to really think its just my headgasket, the blow by seems to have been created from a lack of breathing ability.. However as already stated a compression and then leak down test will confirm this. If its just the headgasket Im not at all concerned as its just an op to add a Steel HG, GT-R 440'S, Z32 AFM and possibly an upgraded turbo to boot. Will see

Lol Im pretty sure anyone with even the most basic knowledge of engines would know this.. Blow-by in the crank-case isnt going to be created from a failed oil control ring.. A failed compression ring or ring land on the piston however can and possibly will create blow-by, a failed oil control ring is likely to result in small to moderate amounts of oil being pulled into the compression chamber.. UPDATE: Have just un-plumbed both breathers from the valve covers and taken the car for another drive, absolutley no blow by whatsoever this time.. I really do think this is just headgasket.. Will be doing a full Compression + Leak Down test in the coming days and will upload details.. The engines still blowing little to no smoke at all, but I would imagine that will change as the head gasket futher deteriorates..

I understand the dip-stick being moved is due to blow-by but I had no breather hooked up when it was running.. could pressure have built up and forced a little pressure past the rings and into the crank case? Would I not be experiencing some heavy white smoke if my rings were destroyed? There is a small amount of white gunk under te oil filler cap, small amounts of water in oil and vice versa.. God Im hoping its just my head gasket..

Just took the RB25DE+T for a drive, has ran well, has all the sensible mods etc.. However Ive just returned home and found oil in my coolant There was oil on the underside of the bonnet too, it had obviously come from the dipstick, which was about 20mm a jar.. Oil had a little water in as far as I could see Im not OVERLY concerned if its just my headgasket, But would be gutted if it was my piston rings aswell.. How can I check this without cracking the engine? The car still runs well and blows little to no smoke, which is making me think its possible just the headgasket.. Cheers guys

Yeah Im keen for some info regarding this too

There not botched, Im just running factory coils atm which work fine but theres a little misfire, quality aftermarket coils can help the RB engine run smoother, Ive seen the difference between standard and aftermarket coils a few times and quality aftermarket items seem to always work better, Ive seen a few waste-spark setups which work fine too

Want to beef up the ignition system on my R32 RB25DE+T running all the usual stage one mods.. Currently running factory coils over gapped NGK plugs... Theres 2 worth while options.. Aftermarket Coils (Ultra-Spark, YellowJackets etc..) OR A waste spark setup KEEPING IN MIND THIS IS A + T ENGINE. I would opt for aftermarket coils if it was a regular DET engine but because of the turbo conversion I am wondering if waste spark is the way to go on the basis that it fires twice, once per bang stroke one per suck stroke.. Whos had experience with running different setups? What works best with the +T engines? All info appreciated! Cheers again guys

Haha Ive just fitted a brand new cambelt so I know timings at exactly 15 degrees.. Allgood guys was just wondering if there was any easy calc This was pretty much what I was thinking based on the HKS adj. cams.. it was only a reference.. cheers

Why doesent this dickhead just get a timing light?!

Heya guys, Does anyone know exactly what the ratios are for adjusting the C.A.S? (As in 1mm movement of C.A.S = how many degrees difference at crank) I know rotating the C.A.S clockwise retards timing, whilst anti-clockwise will advance it.. Also the slots on the C.A.S are exactly 20mm wide.. I also know that the factory position for the C.A.S is centered to achieve 15 degrees.. But if I move the C.A.S 1 mm how many degrees does that change? On HKS timing gears, its 2 degrees at the crank per mm, would that be relative? Cheers

Im not sure if this is general knowledge or not but I basically searched this site completely for guides to doing a cambelt and what I found was excellent.. I printed off a few and have been using them as guide whilst doing the Cambelt on my R32.. ( Soo much gratefullness to the lads that take there time to throw up guides with photos etc ) ANYWAYS.. I was having real trouble actually fitting the cambelt to the engine, lining up all the marks and pulling the thing over the final cam gear was never going to happen.. So I went back and re read B-rice's guide which was a beauty, it basically explains the following, "Place the belt by gripping about 5mm on the cam gears and the tensioner" I did this with all lines lined up.. And then proceeded to mark up and slip the belt 5mm onto the crank gear, And then finally, the belt VERY EASILY slipped over the idler. All of the guides I read bar this one said getting the cambelt on WAS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT by yourself, GOOD NEWS! THIS IS NOT TRUE By following B-rices guide and buying genuine parts its quite straight foward. Is this general Knowledge or??