Paulusc44

Just discovered quite the trick to getting the cambelt on

Cheers bro

Heya guys, Doing a cambelt on my R32 at the mo.. Which has an A31 RB25DE+T in her.. Purchased a genuine Timing belt + Idler + Tensioner.. No worries with the Idelr or Tensioner at all.. Just pulled the belt out of the bag, its definetely the correct part but I have a question.. It has 3 yellow lines laser marked on it, 2 of which are solid, the other is dotted.. I thought naturally the 2 solid lines would be for the cam gears and the dotted line for the crank gear? But the 2 solid lines dont line up on the cam gears, Instead, one of the solid lines and one of the dotted lines want to line up on the cam gears whilst the second solid line lines up with the crank gear, and yeas the belt is on the right way rotation wise.. Is this correct (Again genuine Nissan part and correct part number) Cheers

Sweet, cheers, didnt think Id get adequate flow through there.. Will be doing this. Cheers again

Hey all, Just wondering if theres any such way to successfully flush the engine without removing the thermostat? Will the water still pass through the engine with the thermostat still in place? Did a flush not too long ago and replaced thermostat with a genuine item, am now doing the cambelt and want to run a little water through there just to flush things out, can this be done with the thermostat still in place? Cheers

Hey guys, Can someone please advise on where to find or tag the links to the BEST Timing Belt Install Instructions.. I found a really good guide a while back and cant find it now.. I have found the guide from SyndeyKid which looks the goods.. An easily printable PDF wouldbe cool also, Cheers

Lol you add about 0.2 Volts resistance max for each metre of wire used at the gauge I was referring too, was just hoping to grab some info on what parts of the engine respond best to an improved earth, allgood, have found some info this arvo

Lol Im just extending a few of my factory earths, gonna create an extra 2 for the CP's, and extra for the ign. module that goes to the intake mani. Cheers anyway haha

Haha no worries.. Any info regarding engine earths particularly for the RB engine?

Am I correct in saying theres no drain plug on the R32 Coupes fuel tank?

Hey all, Have just removed the plugs out of my recently converted R32 RB25DE+T.. Engine has only been running all up since installed for maybe 1-2 Hours max.. (Engine has done 190,000 Kms) Plugs were brand new and are absolutely coated in carbon, also I noticed they were BK5RE's? Im going run BCPR6E's gapped to 0.8mm which I will install tomorrow.. Im sure the mixture is to lean if anything (ecu is currently being re-tuned) Could the timing be too far retarded? What else would explain the carbon deposits? Coils are in excellent condition as is the rest of the ignition system.. Would the plugs themselves account for this? Im also going to install a couple of fresh earth's.. Were would be the most effective place for these to be installed? Finally the car was sitting for 24 months plus with bugger all fuel in it.. Ive since thrown 20 litres of 98 Octane Gull Force 10 (Available in NZ, contains 10 percent eth.) Im going to throw in another 10 litres of 95 octane regular unleaded and wanted to add an octane boost to ensure its healthy as.. Are these worth while or are they detrimental to running etc? All help appreciated Cheers again

Ideally you want the line that runs to the solenoid via the pressure only port to come from the place where boost is going to be MOST ACCURATELY recorded. Therefore the Compressor housing is (if possible) the best source. Like 89CAL said above, the port on your TB is a pressure only port, however because boost levels could (and will) drop as they travel through your piping and cooler core, the final boost level which is received and displayed at the TB is lower than that actually created by the turbo at the compressor housing. (All intercooler cores and piping setups with joiners lose some pressure, this depends on the quality and length of piping and joiners, the size of piping, the quality of the core etc)

Cheers for the info on the FPR.. I figured that if both RB20DET/25DE and 26 FPR's operate at the same stock pressure It wasent going to change anything.. Haha once again guys Im not looking to perfect anything in my driveway, Im just looking to better this current "tune" before I can get either a Nistune or Dynoed EPROM.. Things such as upgraded coils/correctly gapped plugs, upgraded FPR ect arent exactly backwards steps either although some would say unnecessary without an Injector upgrade etc.. Youve pretty much confirmed what I suspected to begin with, that being that "Mail Order Chips" will never perfectly run any setup, Dynos are a necessity for this. I never expected to perfect anything with any thing Mail ordered but I am surprised that the general attitude towards EPROMS is still that without a dyno theyre a waste of time.. I honestly thought that with the amount of interest shown in RB turbo conversions and the sheer amount of people that now own an RB with stage 1/2 mods that buying a Mail order chip to suit the basics (Intake, Exhaust, F.M.I.C etc..) and getting a relatively good state of tune would be a go. (You know when you think about the amount of people with an RB20/25DET with an basic exhaust, intake setup etc..) Cheers again for clearing things up, always good to know theres people out there with adequate knowledge that dont mind giving you a minute or two of their time

Just a question to anyone else out there that knows.. Because the standard R32 GT-R and R32 RB20DET engines run the same standardized Nissan fuel pressures.. (2.5Kg/Cm2,3.0Kg/Cm2) Will installing a GT-R FPR provide more fuel??

Ultimately the idea is to get the thing onto a dyno, however Im currently living about an hour north of Auckland, there are no such facilities around.. Ive been in contact with a few dyno tuners in Auckland and have a good idea what Im aiming for and how much it will cost. I wouldent have the balls to drive this thing for an hour the way its detonating above 4K RPM, even approaching 4K RPM it can be tedious, honeslty this "tune" is a joke.. Im just trying to get the thing to a more satisfactory state before I finally dyno tune it properly.. That would be mint man, does your rail still have injectors attached by any chance? If I was to send you my address and pay P&P would you be able to send it too me? Thanks heaps bro

I know I cant rely on any Mail order chip haha.. Im not new to this.. I knew speedlab werent experts by any means but I am suprised at just how poor the tune is.. Its shocking.. Luckily I have a few tried and tested Nistune maps as well as a couple of others by private tuners here in Auckland, along with all the electronics required for road tuning, which I should be doing this afternoon.. Im currently running the standard BCPR6E NGK which im pretty sure run a standard gap of 1.1mm which I was going to reduce to 0.8mm? My coils are in great condition and have just been cleaned so for now they will be fine. And as for the FPR's.. Im running an A31 Cefiro RB25DE which unlike the R32 RB25DE engine come with twin FPR's from factory.. In this instance is it only nessacary to upgrade the front FPR? aka the one that feeds the engine with fuel? Thanks again boys

Hey guys, Had my mate around last night, He bought several tunes on His laptop, and I used an ecu that also had a Nistune feature pack attached.. (which ofcourse allows for the VCT etc from the S2 eng) However because my Engine is a S1 we couldent get the tunes to load correctly, the feature pack did not want to delete.. Nistunes have been available in NZ for quite some time, but theyre getting alot more exposure now than they used to, theyre an fantastic ecu and have proven results but the only trouble here in NZ is the tuning.. Alot of guys just arent in touch with Nistune software.. Anyways.. My mate returned home where He has proceeded to load a tred and tested tune onto and EPROM which I will then insert into my EPROM socket.. We have full diagnostics etc so we can see exactly how safe things are.. Also, I slighty tuned my CAS last night, retarding it by around 3 degrees.. Running slightly improved, but is it obvious that the original tune just isnt up to scratch, will let everyone know how I get on later tonight.. I have been in touch with a Nistune distributor over here and can get one for a relatively good price So were on the right path there, Im still intersted in safe-proofing the setup further, so could quite possibly end up upgrading coils/plugs and FPR's... Some tried information in this category would be great? Do people generally prefer a RR FPR for this type of application? or a simple 1:1 ratio FPR such as a Tomei type s or similar? Once again guys any infos appreciated, and cheers for the input so far

Ok sweet as, Ive got a mate coming around in an hour or so with a ECU thats been tuned by a reputable EPROM tuner in Auckland NZ.. Im not sure about Aus but EPROM tuning has come along hugely here in NZ over the last few years, guys are able to get great results with eproms and a dyno.. Anyways bit of a question, Im going to adjust my CAS to the maximum retarded timing, to do so do I move it all the way to the right? (Clockwise)? As this is the same way as the engine rotates it would retard timing?, right? And is there any adjustments I can make to the TPS that relates to timing or afr's? Cheers again guys

It was done by a tuner over here in NZ, A place called speedlab.. Im not convinced its the greatest tune to be honest.. I have a couple of other ecus which I can try out just too see what sort of a difference they make, Im thinking about also looking at a rising rate fuel pressure reg?

Hey all, Have just completed my R32 RB25DE+T setup which consists of: RB25DE block + head from an A31 Cefiro Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump New OEM fuel filters RB20DET Injectors, with actory fuel pressure regs and factory fuel rail RB20DET AFM RB25DET NEO T28/30 Turbo with factory internal wastegate, factory manifold, oil + water lines, factory dump pipe F.M.I (Stock GT-R size) with 2.75" Stainless piping, factory air intake Factory coils with new OEM plugs Chipped EPROM (With what I now suspect is a pretty poor tune..) Have taking it for 2 test drives now and it drives sweet, nice and smooth etc BUT at around 4-4.5K RPM the engine begins to detonate, which gets heavier with more throttle applied.. anything under about 4K RPM and its nice, torquey as and builds boost nicely, however go to squeeze the throttle on after that and detonation occurs.. My next steps are to gap the plugs to 0.8mm instead of the factory 1.1mm.. Add a decent dose of fresh 98 Try a friend ecu which runs on a very similar setup and see what happens above 4.5 K RPM.. I know this type of conversion has been done a million times here in NZ and I bet its no different in Aus so theres plenty of info out there im sure, detonation on the turbo conversions seems to be the most comonly encountered issues.. So whats the best angle of attack from here? What have you guys tried thats worked/not worked? Just keen on a few different viewpoints or even links etc.. Cheers

Heya, Ive got a bonnet with pretty bad sun-fade and want to re-spray it, the under/colour coat is fine, I just want to remove the OEM clear coat.. whats the best plan to remove it? was thinking wet sanding with 600-800 grit through to about 1400 grit? Cheers

Recently removed my Clutch Master (Thought the seals were rooted) However after speaking with a few people It sounds like my Clutch Line Dampner is more likely to be the problem.. When Attempting to bleed the system the Master appeared to be pumping (I couldn't get any movement at the slave though, Air Lock?) So, Is the a sure way to tell if the Master is still ok? Links to diagrams or other forums would be cool Cheers

Heya all, Recently re-powered my Skyline, went to drive and the masters shot... So Im getting a new Master, however I dont know whether to also get a braided clutch line and do away with the factory dampner? If I stay with the factory dampner whats the best way to bleed the unit ect to ensure the best clutch operation? Keen to hear ideas or experiences Cheers

Yeah Im 99 percent sure the masters gone, after bleeding it and the slave alternately today for nearly half an hour, still nothing. Im sure the seals have gone, will remove tomorrow and inspect, Cheers again for your help GTSBoy have been a huge help with finalizing this +T setup!

I just replaced the slave before I began the bleeding process, Im guessing its the Master at this stage, as the slave rod isnt moving at all?