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samurai_gtr

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Posts posted by samurai_gtr

  1. Hey all,

    I'm looking for Nissan parts  75176-23U00 and 75177-23U00 which are lablled as 74802FB and 74803FB on the attached diagram.  

    I've contacted a variety of sources including nissan japan and have been advised they are discontinued.  

    Any ideas on other sources of Nissan parts?  Any wreckers or similar that may potentially have a pair? 

    Thanks in advance

    Section_24092018_946.pdf

  2. R34 GTR, Genuine Nizmo Z Tuned, Worth The Money?

    Was just wondering what you guys thoughts are on buying a genuine nismo z-tune front bar for an R34 GTR.  Is it worth the extra money to buy genuine as they're literally 4 or 5 times the price of a copy?  Considering that both are FRP.  

    Will I devalue my car by getting a copy?  I already have genuine nismo z-tune fenders.  

    The freight from Japan is just ridiculous and I'm finding it really hard to justify.  The cost of the bar is  119,491 yen, which is roughly $1390, the cheapest price landed I've gotten is $2120 (surface mail) which means freight and commission is $730 which in my opinion is a little pricey.  Anyone know of any cheaper options?

  3. 6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    That's somewhat intriguing, because Koyo don't list the copper version of that part number on their own website.  Only the HH20879, which is the one you linked from No Limit.

    - aluminium part #: R02879

    - copper is part #:  KA020879

    Got the copper part # / quote from Streeter, perhaps it's an item that's only stocked in Japan?  I also looked at the KoyoRad site and catalog and couldn't find it.

  4. 10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    It's unlikely that you will get a copper radiator that is superior to an alloy radiator at a low price.  Copper rads are inherently more expensive than aluminium rads.  In my earlier reply I said " for otherwise identical heat exchangers [copper] will result in better cooling", but the problem is that there is never going to be a pair of radiators that are the same except for the material.  Aluminium rads have fatter tubes and different fin pitch where copper rads have to have thin tubes because the metal is not as strong.  It's actually easier to get a very good aluminium radiator than it is to get a very good copper one.  And the Al rad is lighter and should last longer.

    There are a lot of "articles" written by radiator people on this topic that you could google up.

    In your specific case, Koyo don't even offer a copper rad for R34s, so it's not even a point for discussion.  The only parts they list are for their racing product line, which are all aluminium, including the tanks.

    Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy.  Sorry I should have been more specific, the two radiators I'm referring to are:

    http://www.rhdjapan.com/koyo-type-r-copper-radiator-bnr34-zenki.html

    http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/KOY-R020879

  5. 1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

    Um....retain as much heat?  Not the distinction between the two metals that I would make.  Copper has better thermal conductivity than aluminium, so for otherwise identical heat exchangers it will result in better cooling.  But it is heavier than aluminium.  I cannot tell you which will be more important in your application, although I'd be willing to bet that you're not going to need to go to copper.

    I can get a copper one relatively cheaply, would you prefer a copper over aluminium given the choice?  They're very similar in price.

    Just curious to know what your preference would be and why?

  6. 21 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    and when someone sees a Plaz cooler they know you're serious :)

    Anyhow, I can get you one for a decent price however the team there is flat out catching up on jobs so it will be at least 2 weeks before you can get your hands on one as they're all made to order. 

    Thanks mate.  If you could get me a quote that would be great.

  7. R34 GTR Intercooler choice for 350awkw

    Hi guys,

    I've damaged the bottom 2 or 3 fins of my intercooler during a fight with a gutter, was wondering what you guys thoughts are in terms of replacements, have read a lot of threads on here with varying reviews so I though I'd start my own for my specific application.

    I'm also aware that the stock one is quite capable of my requirements but like I said, it's damaged and needs replacing.

    Car has -5's and was last dynoed at 343awkw.

    Open to all suggestions from Aussie made, ARE, PWR, Plazmaman, to Japanese ARC, HKS, etc.

    My mechanic is recommending ARC or HKS.  I'm leaning more towards ARC as I really haven't read anything negative about them other than they're expensive, performance wise I've read they're solid.

    ARC has a couple of different types but I can't read japanese so I don't know what the difference is:

    http://www.arc-brazing.co.jp/intercooler.html

    There's an 073 and an 079, the 079 being quite a bit more expensive, so I'm assuming it's bigger, would greatly appreciate if someone could help out with dimensions as it's an expensive purchase and I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing!!!

    I believe ARC have a wide core version as per http://www.visionr.com.au/.  It would be nice if it was wide enough to hide the end tanks behind the front bar, purely for aesthetics.  Also has anyone ever ordered through these guys?

    Been away from the scene for a long time, would I still go through Streeter or Import Monster for quotes or is there a new kid on the block?

  8. 1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

    Check steering rack and CV boots.  Touch no bushes.  You will burn thousand of $$ as soon as you start to consider your options with those.  Inspect caliper seals as I said.  Do nothing else unless it clonks or otherwise looks f**ked when you take it apart.

    Thanks again mate.

    Just looking at getting a few quotes for the crossmember, any other places you guys can recommend other than Amayama for genuine nissan spare parts?

    Have emailed Streeter and Import Monster already.

  9. 54 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

    Do you want the complete list that will cost you several thousand dollars?  Or do you want a few semi-random suggestions?  Because you can do either of those or anything in between.  Are you happy with rubber bushes (softer Nissan ones, firmer Nismo ones, possibly even firmer aftermarket ones) or are you happy with poly-urethane?  Are you willing to run adjustable length arms with spherical steel joints at the ends?  How many of the arms are you willing to do this to?  Just the caster rods?  Casters and uppers?  All 3 arms each side?

    Wheel bearings are not really an issue related to having the suspension apart.  I would check them out whilst the car is coming apart and decide at that point.  They could be perfectly fine or they could be pretty stuffed.

    Brakes are probably the first thing you should look at.  Get the calipers off and check the seals and so on.  Sitting for 6 years might have left them in a bad state.  This applies equally to the rear of the car of course!  Braided teflon brake lines are a good idea.

    I would be thinking of putting some Bilstein B6 or B8 dampers into it at a minimum, if the ones that are in there are original.  If they're that old, they're not going to be much chop.  Other people will recommend a million different ideas for springs, dampers or coilovers.

    Upgraded front and rear ARBs?  You could look at replacing the end links with ones with decent joints, instead of bushes.

    Seeing as you're taking the subframe out.....steering rack bushes.  Possibly the steering column rubber ring replaced by an aluminium one.

    If you're working under the car with the subframe out, you could consider doing all the rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum) under the inlet plenum.  On the other side, it might be an opportune time to investigate the exhaust manifold studs to see if any are loose/missing and replace those while there's better access from below.

    It's starting to sound like an engine out job! :P

     

    @GTSBoy Thanks for the insight mate, much appreciated.

    So I already have new nismo braided brake lines as well as HKS coil overs.  I was more thinking of rubber seals, hoses or anything really that perishes over time.  So hypothetically if you had say $500-$1000 to spend what would your priorities be?

    I'm not looking to replace items such as lower control arms or anything like that, just seals, hoses, bearings etc etc.

    Trying to keep this relatively inexpensive as I'm saving my pennies as the car still has quite a bit of panel work to be done including a respray so there's 10Kish there.  My goal is to get it re-registered but do whatever makes sense while parts are off.

    Sorry mate, not sure what ARBs are???  As you may have gathered I'm not the most mechanical guy lol.

     

  10. Thanks heaps guys I really appreciate it.

    I think I'll just buy a new one from Amayama.  There's no photo on the Amayama site and I can't find a diagram or similar of the part # confirming that is the correct part number (despite the description).  I just really want to be sure that this is the correct part # before shelling out over a grand.

    As there's major labor involved in replacing this, are there other things that should be done at the same time, keeping mind that the car's getting close to 20 years old now.  Wheel bearings, bushes etc???  Thought I might kill a few birds with one stone.

    I also forgot to mention that the cars been off the road for about 6 years due to me moving interstate and not having the money at the time to fix it so it really needs a mini restoration.  Low kms though lol.

     

  11. R34 GTR Crossmember/Cradle required + questions

    Hi guys,

    I've got an R34 GTR, my mechanic has advised that I have a bent front crossmember/subframe after a small incident with a gutter.  I've spoken to a lot of wreckers and no one has one.  I have however found an R33 GTR front(engine) crossmember/subframe and was wondering if that would fit?

    Alternatively I'm sure someone would be able to straighten it, can anyone recommend anywhere in Melbourne that could possibly do this?

    Also any idea on genuine nissan part no as I'd like to get a quote on a new genuine item.

    Thanks in advance.

    R34 GTR front subframe.JPG

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