Gillyr33gtst

You are able to get the right tension on the belt from the beginning and the tension is on the correct side and not relying on the second tensioner to get it right I found when using the two tensioners I'd be playing around with both of them to get marks lining up now the extra 5mm and one tensioner and Idler I'd set tension and marks are perfect hope I explained my self clear enough I'll dig up some pics and post of this

38mm instead of 33mm from the guide for the tensioner hole no need to use two tensioner and timing marks line up spot on

It's best to weld the gallery saves issues later down the track if you are using nissan gasket even more reason being that it is a graphite composite gasket it will eventually leak

Good work mate $1100 rb30de very cheap should go pretty well to hopefully the donor engine is in good order should post results once running

If budget is a issue consider hypatec pistons they come in standard pin hight and also .020 down so if your deck is rough all is not lost I just built my rb30det neo using them with 8:3 comp

Oil tops of pistons the oil will help keep rust away in bores do this every week and wrap in oily rags my engine has been on stand for ages like this no rust may work for tou

Hey man I got a kinugawa tdo6 20g I can't use it on my car I'm building a engine at the moment and it's a bit small but they work good on a 25

Cheers lcxu 105 im now selling the neo bottom end im using head on a 30 $300 if anyone is keen

To be honest I was a bit dodgy on the whole bottom end with the rear oil seal case fouling on r33 flywheel but you have put me strait was only really asking so I don't get wrong bearings and rings for rebuild and they are stronger than a r33 engine

Thanks mate

Cheers any idea on bottom end

Cast numbers and head pics

You just answered it I was asking if it was a neo or non neo being a early engine I was unsure it has r33 cast numbers on block

Was a good engine blew head gasket on number 5 I'm not sure on e85 when it's put back together ill use nistune in a z32 ecu instead of piggyback better tune and will last longer

No oil drain it's super high comp 10:0 as well very hot running even with a brass radiator

Pics of head and piston can anyone identify this engine has r33 cast numbers but had neo parts

Cheers for putting me strait about this apparent gap filling engine I never pulled it down before I put it in was just a cheap thrash engine and copped it for a year so will be very interesting to compare pics of rods heads and generally the whole engine I'll hopefully post it by early next week my health will be the only hold up cheers GTSaboy for your input

Correct was unlike the s2 engine or for a fact any 25 I've worked on.i will post when the I pull engine out again this week for a kero build I'll take pics of rods pistons head oil pump and lifters just for reference purpose the block has two oil returns as well so will be good to see what you all have to say and what is meant by true neo

That's the one mate sorry for the incomplete detail I'm in hospital on pain killers probably should have waited till I got home hahaha

Rear main seal that bolts to back of the block when I converted from s2 25 to neo that was the only issue

Hello this is my first post/reply early model neo engines 1997-1998 versions share the same ports and cas as s2 r33 so all manifolds are interchangeable only major difference is the rear oil seal seat you will need neo flywheel r33 flywheel fouls on it very easy conversion to do no wiring changes just flywheel hope this helps