MerlinTheHapyPig

ohh, i'm gonna get off my arse and put mine in..... my rear end is crap coz of soft coilovers. I just put a rear strut brace in and it makes a big difference for drift, this should make it even better. in fact, if you don't have one, i'd also suggest a rear strut tower brace http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=77338

do you have an aftermarket steering wheel? this is a common problem, there was a thread about it ages ago.

if you want an idea on what they are landed (shipped via container) 36,000 yen = ~$870 landed 50,000 yen = ~$1,125 landed 75,000 yen = ~$1,580 landed if they go much higher than 36kyen it's probably not worth it. They're only 17's and they have crap width and crap offset. If you want to bid on yahoo auction stuff, contact Alex http://www.garage-13.com/ and email him the link. imo, i would look for something second hand. those are new (the auction mentions that they go for 49,350 yen per wheel new - i'd expect auction to end at 50,000 - 75,000) (u can translate using google.com -> langage tools -> english>japanese(beta) if you want some second hand equips to make a set!! http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h22667004 http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auct...ction/m16083693 http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e48410643 they will be *heaps* cheaper than the final speed rims... if you email alex, he's got a spreadsheet you use to calculate costs.

they shouldn't rattle at all. sounds like they're knocking.... ie they're fudged.

nice 4dr 32 mate! IMO if you want to drift your current car, this is what I would upgrade. - Coilovers (with height adjustment - then you can raise it a bit, aim for around 1-1.5deg camber) - Adjustable Castor Rods (Tension Rods) and run as much positive castor as you can (around 8 or 9 degrees is perfect for drift) - Locked / 2-way mech diff - Front & Rear Strut tower brace - Alloy Subframe Spacers / Pineapples - Tie Rods - Rear upper camber arms - Front Camber upper arms - Hicas lock most important is coilovers, castor rods, and diff. castor rods aren't vital, but with stock castor rods steering is very very vauge. You can try drifting on the viscous lsd for a while, but they are not very predictable - and i wouldn't bother if you're serious about drifting, you'll just do more damage hitting poles and stuff from diff crapping out mid-drift. Coilovers will let you raise your car a little, unfortunantly skylines (unlike S13's) dont have mcpherson strut, and you can't use camber plates on suspension tops.

get alloy subframe spacers/pineapples. They apparently make a huge difference, no more axle tramp!! There is a thread on them on http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=84489 a couple of people mentioned u don't get much more drivetrain noise IMO i woudn't bother with the urethane ones, i'd just go straight to the alloy ones. I have some ready to go into my car, just c.b.f'd installing them. What sort of track work? drift?? (If you want to buy a set, PM me)

cool, thanks for that. only strut bar that has trouble fitting, is the S13 one with a CA18DET as the rocker cover is slightly too high. It can be fixed by using washers to space one side up a bit.

not as common as r32's r34 fronts (bee-r kits) are bloody expensive, like i think around $10-11k for full (front & rear) bee-r kit http://www.garage-13.com/ quotes price for R34 front end conversion at from $5,300 (which i think doesn't include R34 headlights from memory, you'll have to check with the website). strawberrys (at same site) are ~ $2,750-2990 with swap over (installed but only in melbourne) personally I prefer r32's, they just feel like a lot better built car. s13 interior looks cheap and tacky. SR20DET is heaps better at lower RPM but not as revvy as RB20DET. having said that, i'd probably go the S13 over a gts-4 simply coz of RWD factor... although u can just pop a fuse on the atessa.

bump, still for sale, PM me for orders.

Price is now $155 / pump :-) (for next order)

not that i'm aware of

1st and second batch have been sent out.. getting more in stock within the next 1-2 weeks, currently taking orders.

At the moment unable to get them, but i'm working on it and I'll send a PM if I can get them sometime in the future.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...e/IM000026s.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...e/IM000027s.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...e/IM000028s.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...e/IM000029s.jpg by the looks of things there is ok clearance. take note of where the actual bar runs in realtion to the intake piping before the manifold (in 3rd pic) - as in the case of the rb20 the bar is to the side of intake pipe, (not directly above it). There seems to be plenty of clearance over engine and at least one inch clearance from rb20det intake manifold. No idea how high rb25det manifold sits. The only suggestion I can make is perhaps use washers on the drivers side to increase the height of the bar. This is quite safe as long as you don't run out of thread on the strut top bolt's. Hope this helps, PM me if you wish to order and I'll send bank account details. -Tim

Delivery is: $10 - one bar $15 - both front & rear within australia

for me, they made a big difference, rear end used to be a bit unpredictable due to relatively soft coilovers, and since i've had the rear strut brace in it's helped that a lot. I've noticed especially when drifting, weight transitions on corners where you change direction have been a lot more smooth than it used to be.

yep! direct fit on most nissan, mitsubishi and mazda

picture is being used with permission. and prices are exactly the same :-p if you're not interested in buying anything, keep your comments to yourself

Also avaliable Apexi Shift Knob $39

with standard injectors, I don't think you'll need an aftermarket FPR. If you're running high flow injectors & lots of boost it's probably a good idea anyway!! Never had any complaints from customers about it running rich, and I'm using walbro + stock inj + stock FPR on my own car and having no problems.

No problems, here are pics that i took a few minutes ago from my own car. (4 door R32 gts-t)

Max operating pressure that i've seen walbros been tested at is 100psi (so theoretically more but i doubt in application you will exceed 100psi as you'd have to be running like 40-50psi boost!!!) Max operating pressure for GTR pumps is 90psi (as they have a relief valve which opens at 90psi) - this is for R33 GTR I hope this answers your question. I also found some more info on a benchtest of flow characteristics of various pumps which may be interesting. ------ Here is some data on a bench-test which was performed. R33 GTR pump is shown as comparison. http://www.stealth316.com/images/flowtest-t&htp.gif ------- Keep in mind this test compares a New stock R33 GTR pump, so a 15 year old r32 gtr pump will not perform as well as this.

R33 Fronts are avaliable (not rears). Please PM me to order or email tkohlman -at- bigpond.net.au

Strut Bar / Strut Tower Brace - New To suit: r32 skyline (front and rear) s13 silvia/180sx (front and rear) S14 & S15 200sx (front only) I'm looking into getting R33 and R34, if you are interested PM me and i'll send out a group PM when I can get them. PM to order $69 each ($138 front & rear) -Tim

Suits Nissan, Mitsubishi and Mazda Great looking shift knob, counter-weighted, they make gear changing much more comfortable and precise. (Comes with either Blue, Red or White "Greddy" sticker) $65 (new) please PM me to order and I can send you bank account information. Shipping is $5 -Tim