MerlinTheHapyPig

it's quite normal, rb's breathe fairly heavy, a little blow-by particularly at high revs is common, and it doesn't mean your engine is on it's way - you can check this by doing a compression test.

^ a little off topic... but it would take a brave man to drive at 150km/hr on a space saver........... lol

it's common knowledge on skylines (r32-r34 etc.) that the auto transmission control is done by the ECU. Some cars have a separate ecu for auto trans, skylines don't. there may be some form of interface between the actual transmission and the car's ECU, but the car's ECU does the important stuff (i don't know for sure because i've never had to work on an auto). There have been several cases to my recollection of powerfc's blowing up skyline auto transmissions, it's a well documented problem!!!

Just give it some time and see if it comes good. If it's still happening after a week of normal driving, you should look further into it. Also, if it's blue smoke, then it's burning oil, if it's black smoke then it's running rich (maybe a cooler pipe leak, or afm problem etc.). You can do a compression test to rule out any serious engine problems (ie. rings) If you have to leave a car without driving it, you should start and run it for 10 minutes once every couple of weeks for future reference.

if there is power to the pump, it has to be the pump then! easy to change, grab a walbro 255l/hr hp or bosch etc. You can wire in as a direct replacement, or run a +12v from battery and use a relay (there is a guide on this floating around on the forum tech articles section)

there is a tutorial/faq somewhere floating around on how to clean. It's not that hard to get to.

Jeff, I'm not trying to play devil's advocate here, maybe I come across as sceptical. Maybe you could point out specific things you disagree with. In regards to map tracing using Consult. I spoke to sam (dr Drift) a couple of months ago about this, as I was writing some software to map trace with Consult, Sam had also looked into this, and he reached the conclusion that it was impossible to do an accurate map trace using consult, for various reasons. The software I was working on actually used a few tricks to get a more accurate trace (it uses the ignition timing figures as well as the sensor readouts to give you a range of possible cells). I'd very much like to see this software you claim does an accurate map trace, and compare it to a proper map trace. Becuase I suspect it will be wrong. In any case, let me know the name of the software, I'd like to check it out. Or is this a trade secret?? And what is the commercial cost of said software? This needs to be taken into account also. I admire the idea of creating a thread with some useful information and appreciate the time and effort you have taken to do this, perhaps I'm being sceptical because you have a business interest in this. Also there are a few resources available where you can get all this information, namely the ztech tuning forum, which has everything posted here and more. Posting locations of rom addresses etc. is pointless, if you download LiveEdit (free), it comes with all that stuff built in..... I don't think there is anything I said in my initial post which was wrong, and I invite you to quote the parts that you think are wrong or misleading and I'll clarify them for you. I'm actually a supporter of remapping, but I also acknowledge it has it's downfalls. Cheers, Tim

really? I never knew that. I've got plenty of R32 gtst and R33 gtst/s14 wheels I use to drift on and I always assumed they were all the same

No it doesn't I've yet to see consult software which can provide a reliable map trace, this is because the car's ecu uses correction factors based on various other sensors.

yes and no, i mean to do that, take the head off, remove the pistons/rods then if you want to change the crank bearings, take the crank out, then maybe give it abit of a hone, then you have the head off, may as well replace the stem seals while you're at it (since they come with the head gasket kit), give the valves a bit of a lap, maybe you decide to get the head serviced, recut the valves, port/polish etc! it adds up.... once you've reached that stage and fixed anything that is out of spec, may as well do a proper rebuild while you're at it. and you have probably already spent $1-2k if you had this done at a workshop. Only take the motor apart if you're going to do a proper rebuild, budget $3-4k if you need everything done at a workshop. Of course, it's best to do a proper rebuild, and if you've just bought a motor and it's out of the car, then now is the ideal time to do it. Rings, rod bearings, head gasket can all be changed with the engine in the car, if the second hand motor is running well and has good compression, and you don't want to do a full rebuild, then don't fix something that ain't broke....

i usually would use a genuine nissan timing belt and water pump, and any seals that you require. all the fluids and other stuff get from repco/autobarn/supercheap Also nissan oil filters are almost same price as ryco ones, may as well go nissan for them...

line up the dots with the notches, there are dots on the lower timing cover for the crank pully, the different colour notch is 0 (i think all notches are white except for one which is red, that's TDC) Each cam pully has a dot, which lines up with a notch.... It's really easy, also the timing belt has lines on it which should line up with the dots on the various pullys.

fronts don't have stock camber adjustment rears do, but not enough adjustment to be useful. there is a whiteline kit you can buy to do the adjustment which uses bushes. You can't do it yourself without something to measure camber (ie wheel aligner etc)

IMO, there aren't enough tuners out there who can do remaps, a few points to consider: -The tune is only as good as the tuner, remaps can do almost everything most aftermarket ecu's can do. The tunes can be equally as good. Tuner skill is more important than the actual ecu choice. -The tuner needs the correct equipment to produce a good tune, as a minimum they should have an EPROM emulator which supports map tracing (via NRE software typically), and something which provides a knock indication (microphone or sensor). (this is in addition to the usual tuning tools - dyno, o2 etc.) -Most Nissans can be remapped (some such as r33 require a plug-in board) -Remaps can't provide any data logging or hand controller display readout (this can be achieved using consult cable and laptop) -buying the equipment and road tuning it yourself is more expensive than an aftermarket ecu + tuning, and the tune will usually be poorer. It's also more of a hassel to do the tuning, most will find powerfc tuning easier, and you have the ability to use the hand controller to make adjustments on the road. -if you can find an established remap tuner who you trust, then it will be far cheaper than an aftermarket ecu! But, if you aren't happy with the tune or tuner, then there are not many alternatives -On Nissans, remaps are a very good option for automatics, as they retain the transmission timing retard logic - a feature no aftermarket ecu has managed to copy properly. Powerfc's will usually blow up an auto trans after 6 months or so......... Best solution here is usually to buy a manual!!!!

i've looked briefly at the economy of doing various engine conversions you have a few options. -Stock rb25det -Stock rb26dett -'built' motor add $4k or so -build an rb24 or rb30 out of your rb20. probably $5k or so, but you have a 'built' motor for close to cost of a stock rb25det or rb26dett. but you are still stuck with an rb20 head which doesn't flow as well as rb25 or 26 rb20 engines are cheap as chips, i have a spare in my garage just waiting for me to blow this one up.... The risk you run putting an rb25/26 in is that the engine you get will also be 'tired'

second hand replacement is probably the go. You can try mending it with JB-weld or something similar, though I only recommend this as a temporary solution. It's a fantastic product, I have used it a number of times on my daily driver I have had good results with jb-weld on a metal coolant line which had started to split along a seam, i used jbweld on it and it's been fine for 3 months now, which is impressive given that it's a high-pressure line. I do intend on replacing it, but i check it every few days and it hasn't shown any signs of leaking or starting to crack again. don't know if i would use it as a permanent solution for my skyline but it's good as a temp fix to get you out of trouble until you can afford to replace the end tank

there are a lot of things to consider -low powered cars should use smaller tyres/rims as they are less grippy -if you're using second hand tyres, 16s and 17s are more common than 18s at the end of the day there is no 'good' tyre. For something less grippy some stock r32 or r33 wheels are ideal (16x6.5), you can use 195-225 widths and 45-55% profiles, also these sizes came stock on alot of commodores and such so there are plenty of them second hand For something mid-range stock r32 gtr or z32 are good (16x8 and 16x7.5 respectively) with similar sizes to above (the wider 225 end of the scale are preferable). For something with better grip for the rear, 17x8 and 17x9 with 255/45 etc.etc. is usually the go. I avoid using 18s because of the cost of the rubber. You will also get variations in grippyness due to the compound of the tyre, hardness etc.etc. so you can get 205/50/16s on stock r32 gtst rims which are grippier than some 255/40/17s on 9inch rims also number 1 bet on tyres for drift are Pirelli P6000 they are the most consistant drift tyre i've ever used on 16s

bump.. i'm moving to queensland on friday prefer them gone before then

Sorry mate, yes that's a typo. They are definantly 16x7.5 All PMs replied to...

Bump...

damn ding-dong box... yeah, take it out and smash it!!

i've been told another issue for auto's is the kickdown switch, you can't have your foot fully flat to the floor unless you disable it.... And also even with hold on, it will still change up a gear when the revs get over a certain amount. I helped run a dyno day, and we had a couple of auto fords and holden's, their dyno readings were around what we expected. But no way of telling how much power they lost. if the clutch/convertor is slipping on the dyno and giving a lower power reading, it's fair to say it will be slipping on the street also. so the power and torque readings it gives will be a more realistic than if you figured out a way to lock up the converter.....

second hand lsd's (stock r32 gtst or gtr) will be a bit of a gamble. I recommend something aftermarket such as a Cusco/Kaaz/Nismo 1.5way etc.etc. You also need to confirm that you have an R200 housing, and it's not an R180 housing. I'm not sure if any of the skylines came with R180's across the range of non-turbo r32's but it's something you need to check, non-turbo s13's came with r180 housings, and the r200 housings and driveshafts bolt straight in. if it's an R200 housing, an R200 diff centre will fit, but you may also want to check that you're happy with the ratio. I recommend taking diff's to a diff place to get centres fitted if you don't know what you're doing, because there are shims and washers and crap that align the diff centre with the pinion/crownwheel. A friend once stuffed the alignment up on an Rx7 diff and the diff crapped itself after a week or two....

I have for sale the following wheels, selling because I'm moving to Queensland with work for 6 months and parents say they have to go! -SSR Integral A2 White Full Set 17x9 +38 and 17x8 +32 114.3 x 5 (eg skyline, s14/s15 etc) These are similar to GTR offset, and the wheels fit r32 gts-t and fill the guards very nicely. They also fit a friend's 180sx with 5-stud conversion, as pictured. They are very light weight, and are a great set of rims. They have 'medium' gutter rash but nothing major They are a bit dirty in the pics but give them a buff and they come up very well $800 ono for full set http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...heels/ssr_1.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...heels/ssr_2.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...r_skyline_1.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...r_skyline_2.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...ssr_180sx_1.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...ssr_180sx_2.jpg -AVS (don't know the style, they are white, as pictured) Pair only 17x9 +38 (same offset as the rear wheels in the above set, so fitment should be the same) 114.3 x 5 (eg skyline, s14/s15 etc) 'Light' gutter rash (as to be expected) very nice rims $450 ono for the pair http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...heels/avs_2.jpg -300zx Z32 16x7.5 can't remember offset. They fit on my r32 skyline as fronts and rear but a friend reported that they didn't fit his s13 with R33 brake / 5 stud conversion They are in fairly good condition i think there may be a bit of gutter rash but they are at a friends house so I can't check. 114.3 x 5 (eg skyline, s14/s15 etc) $150 ono for the pair pickup only, located in Bentleigh, Vic (south-east suburbs of melbourne) Please PM if interested, Regards, Tim

get it on the dyno, and see what the air/fuel ratios are like. if you hear it ping, stop right away and retard the base timing a bit