MerlinTheHapyPig

yeah, there are a few people drifting with viscous lsd's they work ok for a while, and then it gets really ugly. I know of a few people who have hit stuff due to a single spinning viscous (when drifting), and it's ugly. My skyline's lsd was stuffed when i bought it, it could do donuts in second gear for about 10 seconds then crap out and start going straight.

lol, yeah kinks - I know what you mean. my street car has had a locker for 2 years, and i always say this when people ask me if it's dangerous. "Is it dangerous NOT to have an LSD?" if you are in a situation where your car is going sideways, wouldn't you want to reliably and predictably be able to put the power down? A locker is as reliably and predictable as you can get, stock lsd's and very worn mech diffs have a habit of crapping out (single spinning) at the worst possible time. They take a bit of getting used to, and can be dangerous for a novice, but i like to be in full control of my car, and i don't get that feeling with a viscous, or even mechs which can be hard to predict when they will lock up.

the afr gauges are pretty useless, for reasons suggested above. The stock o2 sensor is pretty useless, the stock ecu uses it when cruising to gradurally lean out the mixture safely, but it's too slow to rely on the readings when doing anything else other than cruising! If you had a wideband o2........ As far as turbo's go, most tuners aim for 12:1 or 12.5:1, N/a cars can be tuned leaner than that 13:1 - 15:1 i don't recommend tuning it yourself unless you have the equipment and you know what you're doing!! a turbo car running 14.7:1 on boost is bad news! it is too lean (hot) and you will burn out valves...

hmm, interesting writeup paul, so with your manual over-ride button, how good is the diff in always on mode? i mean, is it fully like a locker at any speed? or does it crap out and start single spinning (like a worn viscous...)

it's a grey area.... some gtr's came with mechanical lsds from factory, and i'm sure there were other cars with them stock. Most cops wouldn't know the law on that one.. just find a quiet carpark somewhere on a sunday, i doubt you'll have any problems. I mean, i've cleared defects with a fully locked diff before, and the roadworthy guys have said that there is nothing in the book that says you can't have a locked diff. It won't wear tyres enough to be a concern, if you're hitting the track / twisties hard, tyre wear will be 10-20 times what it is doing low speed figure 8s

does the car pull to one side when braking? that will rule out a binding or stuffed piston probably. -check for leaking brake fluid at calipers, brake lines and master cylinder -check for kinks in the brake lines -bleed all 4 brakes, replace the brake fluid completly if you feel the need, also check that all the lines are tight and the bleed valves are closed properly. if it is still having problems after bleeding all 4 brakes, and the pads are installed correctly and no massive run-out on the rotors, rotors are above minimum thickness etc. then it's probably going to be a rooted master cylinder. (also, remember to follow correct bleeding procedure especially if you have ABS brakes). air in the lines is the usual cause of spongy brakes, did the resoviour get run dry for any reason? did you crack the bleed valve by mistake? did you loosen any of the brake lines when removing the caliper?

yeah, but me and a friend found that after bedding in the kaaz diff's properly and changing the oil, they still have a very harsh engagement. Not that i find that a problem (well.. my car has a locker). We did it in dandy stockyards, which is right on a major road, we didn't get stopped or anything. It's easy to explain your way out of, just print out the bed-in instructions and show them to the cop!

i've read the wolf specs, and I know what they can do because i'm considering buying one myself. But for the average punter, what's wrong with remaps? you say they are hard to tune. They are NOT if you have the right software and hardware you say they are hard to get the car running well. They are NOT because they retain all the stock temp compensation and idle compensation etc. etc. Maybe your friend had trouble, but I can gaurantee you sam down in vic has plenty of happy customers, and i've driven cars with remaps and they run fine, and he's tuned plenty of cars making 250kw+ Maybe they are not good for the 400+kw market, but if your car has that much power and money is not a problem, then why not a standalone ecu? you should also look at Motec's

or you can get a socket slightly smaller and bash it on with a hammer, that's what i do, if your sockets are quality, then it won't fark them (i use sidchrome tools because they have lifetime warranty!)

holy crap, this has turned into a sh1t fight. vr4sigma, in response to some of your concerns, Remap Tuning, you can do: 1. Real Time Map Tracing 2. Real Time Map Editing / Tuning With the right software and hardware, you can tune just as easily as tuning a power fc or wolf. Maps and settings you can edit include: 1. Ignition Maps (normal and 'safe') 16x16 maps (you can custom set load and rpm points) 2. Fuel Maps (normal and 'safe') 16x16 maps (you can custom set load and rpm points) 3. Airflow meter mods (changed afm, running 1 afm instead of 2 etc, running a map sensor in place of afm) 4. Injecter trim, null time 5. coil pack charge time 6. fuel cut / rev/ speed limit 7. closed loop control 8. idle fuel/timing/target rpm 9. temp enrichment 10. Support for automatic transmission timing retard logic. Now, what can your wolf units do which i haven't mentioned here? why will the tune, power or driveability with a wolf be better?

torque steer is due to unequal length driveshafts, as the longer shaft can flex more than the sorter driveshaft under high-powered acceleration axle tramp is related to lack of compliance in suspension bushings and worn shocks/springs.

yes the idea of putting restrictors in does make me a little nervious, however after reading this ^ i'm not too worried about it. Good enough proof for me...

if the tuner is good, a remap can do almost everything a power fc can do. If you have an automatic, it is the best option. The downside to remaps are that there aren't many places that do it.

^ I think stock oil air separators have a valve so that oil can return to the sump when the engine is turned off. anyway, on a general note, I haven't had any major oil problems in my rb20 (ie i haven't blown an engine due to oil starvation), though i do get alot of blowby at high rpm. I'm running standard sump, slightly overfilled. However after reading this thread, I'm making these mods to the motor i'm currently building. how can you tell if you are having oil starvation problems? aside from blowing motors or burning out bearings etc?

you can also use silicone based lubricant. and as deren said, you need to get them professionally cleaned! the 'ol mr jiffy ain't gonna cut it. They actually put the injectors in a test tank and open and close them at a certain frequency to clear out all the crap. usually $20-30 per injector at most fuel injection specialists. As far as the gasket is concerned, probably best to replace it, you can buy gasket paper and cut them to shape if the nissan ones are expensive (as they usually are)

Installing the chip, is just a matter of soldering a socket in place of the stock rom, this is a 30 minute job + $10 parts for the socket and blank eeprom. $750 is quite high as a up-front cost. I didn't know you could do R34's, i though you needed a daughterboard... anyway. If this is included it would add more to the cost. Make sure the tuner is using the latest version of the emulator and software, because only the later eprom emulator hardware will be able to do a "map trace". With the older software (freely availble, it's called Live Edit) you can't do map traces, the newer version NRE is much better but the old-school emulator hardware won't work for Map Traces. For more info, you can download it here http://www.romeditor.com/

as mentioned, it's often fuel cap, also those temporary ones you get from servo's. You end up having the fuel in the tank splash against the cap when going around corners + fumes = bad smell! Also if you have changed your fuel pump recently and broke the rubber seal around the pump housing .

you need the resistor pack or equivalent... if it's standard ecu, also some form or remap or fuel computer to adjust injector latency......

burnley tunnel..... 3 speed cameras i think but, sounds awesome with external gate.....

After springs and shocks for r32 gts-t (front and rear) I don't mind if they have lowered springs etc. as long as they are not excessively low. And they must have no leaks etc good condition only. Willing to pay $150-200, I have seen plenty of threads with suspension going for these prices. So i think that's fair provided they are in good condition. I can also arrange a swap with any of the following... 1 pair Z32 300zx Rims 1 pair R33 gtst skyline/S14 silvia Rims 1 pair R32 gtst skyline Rims 1 rb20det / s1 rb25det air flow meter (green sticker) all wheels have good tyres with roadworthy tread. In Melbourne, can pay for postage but would prefer not. PM Me, -Tim

no they don't have adjustable rear camber

hm, find a head reco place and get them to do a quote on a head reco I think head reco is usually around $300-500 or so depending on what they have to do (but you'll have to check and get a quote). I've paid $300 in the past but for a 4cyl 8 valve head. $100-150 for the gasket kit (usually includes the stem seals etc.) you should replace the water pump definantly. and probably the timing belt while you're there... Check all the welsh plugs and coolant lines once you have the head and manifolds off (just incase that was where it was leaking coolant from) once you've done all that it should be sweet, you can also get the head ported and polished but depends on how much you want to spend.

there are different types of spacers... the whiteline urethane (i think that's what they are made from) ones can be used to 'align' the subframe the alloy ones don't align the subframe, you put one on top and one below the subframe and they squash the original bush - locking the subframe in place. if you want to align the subframe go for the whiteline ones - they also have a pic on their website on how to install for grip / all round / drift. they are all claimed to reduce or eliminate axel tramp, but tramp can also be caused by stuffed shocks. (garage-13.com sells alloy pineapples)

head gaskets can do a variety of things when blown, at the moment this sounds like the most likely explanation there will also be an underlying cause for the overheating you'll also need to fix e.g. failed water pump => overheating => blown head gasket it's also possible to warp or crack the head if it overheated seriously enough, this should be checked for (you generally have to send the head off to get reco'd when changing a head gasket because of overheating) anyway, you can get a compression test or leakdown test done to find out exactly where it's leaking from, this would be the next step in diagnosing the problem.

and at the end of the day... you may as well get whiteline adjustable.... I think i posted a while ago asking if gtr swaybars were a worthy upgrade, the advise sydneykid gave me was to just get the whiteline swaybars. (they are $390 a pair on garage-13.com)