Franko07

thinking about it is this even applicable in this situation as when I took the cams out the buckets where all touching them? do you only need to shim the head in rb26 and neos for the solid lifters? thanks!

hi everyone, long story short the timing belt on my 25 shot off whilst running and it destroyed no:6 piston and valves. I've since repaired the block so that's all good for now. My question is the replacement head I had was pretty filthy. I've managed to clean the head up quite well but the hydraulic lifters look like its never had an oil change where as the ones in the destroyed head look beautiful. How do I go about using the good ones as the process for cleaning the crappy ones is quite long and frustrating. I found this equation in the service manual T=T1+(C1-C2) T= shim thickness T1 = removed shim thickness C1 = measured valve clearance C2 = standard valve oem but I don't know how to apply it. In my sr20 you shimmed the rockers so they sat dead flat cause the valves where joined by the rocker, but in this head there individual, so are you accounting for valve height difference or cam lobe difference? or both?

^ Im liking the way youre thinking! In regards to dobs post he said that you need a one way check valve from the drain of the catch can to the sump to stop oil from flowing out the can, im a little confuzed as to how crank gasses can get out then? As i thought that was the point?

how are people getting a hole above the oil surge line on stock sump? I was looking at my block today and couldn't really find a good place to drill a hole in the side of it without it coming close to the structure of the main caps which I don't really want to drill into the block anyway...

I used the gfb unit on my 180 and it was great, easy to use touch screen handled boost up to 50psi and very stable, could change colour to suit cabin gauges and the best thing is that it had an over boost function that cuts all boost at a pre set level so to prevent any spikes. Got mine for $300 a lot cheaper than others on the market, would defiantly buy again!

This is how I was going to set up catch can, excuse the crudeness of it, but you get the idea. Right or wrong?

yeah I understand the concepts fine, I just want a picture of someone who has done the correct catch can/sump vent set up on the stock sump/block, or even a drawing as the pictures are just of bays with pipes going everywhere and you don't really understand what there actually doing or places that they have tapped into. and then I just want some one to confirm that its the hole im pointing to in the pic that I block off in my 25 as in Sydneykids chart it says leave VVT, block the middle one, restrict the rear with 1.2mm (this is for stock oil pump keeping vvt and drifting) but in his opening statement he says that 26's have the rear blocked off from factory, so which hole is it? or does it matter? does oil just get to where it needs to go and all the channels are connected?

Im talking about the stock sump too as those winged sumps cost like 1k which is more than the whole engine where im from. Not to sound cheap but surely it can be done.

Its seems better to put two 1mm restrictors in as theoretically that should halve the oil flow to the head if they are a 2mm hole from standard? But i read the rest of the post and it seems that alls you need to do is take the oil that comes out the rockers and make it go back into the sump and let the crank case breathe. So if i made a 4 fitting catch can and had both rocker covers going to the top, another line from the top of the can going to the turbo intake to create a vacuum and then a line in the bottom returning to the sump this would solve the problem? Sorry to repeat things in the thread but im trying do things right. Also where do people mount the return for the oil in the sump/block if i cant use the turbo drain? I dont want to make a weak spot in the block (photos would be great) i wanted to put it on the passenger side of the engine so i could use the turbo as vacuum so i dont have to run one way valves and stuff if i used the throttle body...

Yeah sure thing will do. Can someone quickly confirm that its this hole im pointing to in the picture that i block off? As i found a good post by sydneykid with good photos but in the beginning he says all rb's should block off the rear squirter as 26's have this standard but in his table he says that a vvt 25 with stock oil pump doing track work should block the middle squirter and leave the rear? Is this correct? I get a bit nervous when blocking off oil... thanks

can someone tell me quickly what that rubber hose goes to on the intake side? my engine came without a turbo on it and ive since deleted all the heater hoses and behind the head hoses. trying to work out whats the best place to source coolant from now...

Thanks for the reply that post was interesting didn't quite get through all 70 pages though haha It seemed to cover more what the problem was but I was looking for more of a how to? From what I can gather I'm running a stock oil pump with VVT so that means that I leave the VVT oiling hole as that has its own drain, the middle oiling hole in the block, block that one off by tapping and threading in a screw? and the rear one fitting a 1.25mm restrictor? or is it the other way around? Then the welsh plug drain I was just going to make myself by drilling and tapping two holes next to the plug and wind in fittings so then you can get them closer to collecting point on the head and the don't have a lip there, but is it alright to attatch the drain end into the turbo drain? I'm assuming as the crank rotates past there it creates a little vacuum and they are both gravity drains that this would be alright? thanks!

Hi im quite new to the forum and rb25s in general just wanted to double check something. Im currently putting in a 25 into a31 cefiro drift car. The engine is getting freshened up before hand so the heads off and i had heard rbs have a problem of over oiling the head at high rpm. Bit of research said that theres some simple fixes like drilling out the drains in the head and block? Just want to confirm that its these 5 holes ive circled? When i lay the hg on the block the holes arnt central with the hg so do people just die grind on an angle so there straight with the gasket? And do they drill all the way down or just the entrances to open them up? Im planning on doing the rear drain through the welsh plug as well bought thought this couldnt hurt either... hope this makes sence was written on my phone so appologies Thanks