AlexCim

Furthur to my investigation, taken from Wikipedia "Faultfinding and diagnosis Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure. Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, find a big empty car park and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle. Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, you can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter. Kits which include the grease, gaiter and retaining clips are available from most motor factors. Some universal gaiters are split lengthwise enabling them to be fitted without having to disassemble the wheel hub and CV joint." Hmm!! The car park scenario with a clunk sounds very like my situation. Anyway, if someone who knows could reply, that would be great. It is good learning all these things at 18. Hopefully by the time I am 20+ ill be able to do most things to my/friends cars myself. Should save me a lot of money over the next maybe 40-50 years of car modifing. I'll stop repling to my own thread now

Oh, Also, here is something to think about. The noise only comes when I am doing slow/tight turns, this means that there would be weight on/off one/more wheels. I am leaning towards the idea of it being the CV joints in the rear driverside wheel. Best to probably just replace all of them at once if need be no?? (as in, they are the cause) Also, the reason that i tied in SK's suspension kit with the noise (its different to the clapping i was telling you about SK) was probably because lowering the car caused the extended wear of the joint to become more audible. Specially with the subframe lock kit too! And the only thing i had changed, apart from the fact that i ignored ride height, was the suspension, so i thought it was to blame! Am I on to something here? Anyone else got any other ideas?

Ok guys, Alex here reporting back my findings So what I did was this. Jacked the car up on 4 stands, removed the rear wheels and... - When rotating the drive shaft from next to the mid muffler, only one wheel turned (one warped brake disk causing slight rubbing)(on another note, could this attribute to poor fuel economy?) but there was basically no slack at all. I also used one hand and held the hub softly and then turned the tailshaft to see what the delay was, almost instant. - Then i looked forward, there was a 1-2cm turn distance delay from turning the tailshaft to when the front wheels started to turn, could this be an issue? - The ammount of free movement in the uni joint was 1mm, MAYBE 2mm. It was almost nothing. So then I got thinking - I went around to the drive side (kinda where the noise comes from) and i pulled the axle IN towards the car (ie away from the hub). Let it go softly and it made a clunk clunck clunck noise, as if it wasnt greased or something. Tried the same on the other side and got much more a muffled thud thud thud noise. Can someone try this on their car and tell me if when the axle is pulled away from the hub and let go it clunks or thuds? - Didnt do the fronts, but i tried to move the front axles and they wouldnt budge. So i ticked them off and went on my way - Also, I got someone else to turn the other side wheel in the same direction as me at the same time as brad suggested about it being open. There was again, almost no slack between when we turned it and when the tailshaft started moving - Oh and, i sat in the car and got my friend to pull the axle in and let it go/repeat, it sounded almost identical to what i was hearing when turning tight corners. THOUGH, dont let that sway you. I am sure heaps of things sound the same. - Turning the tailshaft back and forth more quickly didnt produce any results either. It was good to get under the car and play around, missed being under there Ok, so, what does everybody reckon. Cheers all!

Ditto let me know. I have a turbo sitting here ready to be highflowed

Will let everyone know the results after i put it up tonight and have a poke around. Up until now, I thought it was SK's suspension kit and i was checking the damn bolt that holds the strut in like every few days! I will see. I think maybe the fact that the car got the subframe bushes put in (maybe moved it or something) made me hear it more and its been there for ages. Anyway, let you all know. Ta for the help

atessa fluid in the boot is between max and min on flat ground.

That is so stupid, why the hell didnt they just unban StageZilla? Politics, really gets in the way sometimes.

Crud.. Its getting worse and worse lately. I guess I will take it easy with the car. I am sure whatever spare parts I need I can count on you brad seeing as you are not using basicially the whole rear of the car? Ill jack the car up tomorrow after work and do the wheel turning trick see where the noise is coming from. BTW, towbar isnt on yet. No towing been done so far AFAIK

I am getting some serious clunking from the rear of the car. I only get it on slower tyre corners and when changing into D. Its not a click like above, its a full on "thud/clunk" I dont get any noise when going straight hard acceleration, or around fast corners or anything. Only on tight uturn style turns, where the wheels have a big difference in rolling distance. Of all the possible things it could be, the diff would be the most likely culpret right? Brad, what would it cost to send me the diff here to Melbourne? If i was to go an aftermarket NISMO diff, would there be any issues with the car being auto or 4wd or anything. I know that sounds stupid, but just wondering. Am i just better off with an open wheel diff in a car like this, or would an LSD provide me benefits in the hills? Thanks and sorry for digging up an old thread, better then starting a new one.

give me 260rs price delivered to Melbourne

Its getting close isnt it? If you are doing the fuel pump it must be getting close!

Hmm...maybe I should. Got to get a tranny cooler before then, doubt the brakes will be sorted either Ill post in the members section

Guys this is for a series 2 only.

Its coz Melbournes better, so they deliver our mail faster

I think they should at least give you the damn xenons. Its like, you import a ECU and at customs some EPA dickhead goes and cracks the board in half. How the hell can they do that, IT YOUR PROPERTY. Maybe you wanted those Xenons for your track race car S2 stag!

Dont they let you keep the xenons? Thats stupid, its your car, you should be able to keep everything that it comes over with.

BBQ a month ago, look at the date on the first post in this thread. 19 Dec 2005, 08:53 PM I am going to try and get a couple of other vic stags to join. Then we can take them out for a bit of a play around on the track

Forum Name - AlexCim Inner Colour - Black Outer Colour - Black Stitching Colour - Black Logo (What do you want?) - Maybe unicorn? Probably nothing Extra Material (What for?) - Centre console cover, door covers(doors in furry stuff, not leatherette) Let me know the full costs for everything, basically, all the interior material.

GOT MINE! W00T Ill maybe put it together over the next few weeks. Paint it all nice and proper and get it looking like mine. Should be done in a few weeks after paint, prep, glue etc

Have you tried the Cefiro section? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showforum=83

What Ian left out is that people Auswide can buy there, Vic people should have them before the weekend hopefully. Ill handle posting the items to people, running the eBay business and all I know how to do it. Postage should be pretty cheap, but it depends on the box, weight etc which I dont know yet, until I have them in my hand.

Is this for a Stagea or a Cefiro?

What do you want for the front bar?

How about $350 and you pick up? Go call some wreckers in Melbourne, try to get some prices for genuine nissan parts - Clutch, Brake and Accelerator pedal set - Clutch master cylinder - Clutch slave cylinder - Lines to suit You will find prices are more then what I am asking.

Ok, Ive got some serious rear camber issues also! Here is my wheel alignment Front L R Camber -0.58 -0.72 Caster 5.34 5.32 Toe 0 0 Rear Camber -1.68 -1.05 Toe -2.1mm -2.4mm Thrust angle 0.01 degrees Also, they said they couldnt fit the rear camber kit KCA347. This would have helped me but they said something along these lines - To fit the rear camber kit they would have to remove the rear axle stub to push out the std bushes - The bushes were in a metal sleeve, which was in the rear subframe. I am really confused about this... So ill take the car to another place. Anyway, it was 180 bucks to fit the caster/camber at the front and align everything. Interesting enough, my rear of the car is at 350-360mm, as seen in my wheels thread its not all that low!