Blakeo
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Posts posted by Blakeo
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3 minutes ago, V35_Paul said:
Apparently those ones aren't any good because the inlet/outlet is on the bottom of the cooler.
Really need something that has a fan on it, but I can always retrofit one I guess.
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Hi guys I recently took my v35 drifting and the engine oil got up to about 120 degree celcius (brought it in for a cooldown after, and shortened my trips out after), as well as boiling my power steering oil.
So I am after a thermostatic oil cooler with a thermo fan as well as a powersteering cooler with a fan.
I need them to have fans as drifting doesn't usually get enough airflow over coolers and they would heatsoak.
Thank you.
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17 hours ago, bcozican said:
Who is your tuner / getting the engine built through
Can I ask why a neo instead of a normal rb25? sounds like you have an s2 in there already. If its for the solid head great and all but not really needed alot of tough non neo rb25s going around
I this going to be for a street or track car ? sounds like the street if so gotta ask yourself if 500 maybe 550hp is enough ? at 500 with a good condition stock engine with all the good bolt on bits, headgasket, headstuds and cams it should be able to last a fair long while. Not telling you how to spend your money btw
Good list but you forgot cams unless i missed it - poncams will do the job - Kelford better and get matching springs
Also intercooler and rad should be good
The GTX3076 at 550 will be OK at 600 pushing it ( in real life). I have all that stuff and a GTX3582 Gen ll at 25/26 psi ish gets me 635 rwhp so you'll be pushing 2 bar with the 3076 to get 600hp
Stock box might or might not handle that power for a while but basically its gonna go - and then you have to find a new one or get a ppg or similar for $ but also whats the points in having 600 rwhp if you arent gonna give it herbs to save the gearbox?
Hey mate, which gearbox do you run to handle your power?
Will stock cams not do it for 600hp?
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4 minutes ago, martym10 said:
Ok no problem.
Our ratios are:
Constant 1,411 24/17
Gears (ratios including constant recalculation):
1. 2,62 26/14t
2. 1,72 22/18t
3. 1,27 18/20t
4. direct 1:1
5. 0,856 17/28t
All our gears and shafts are made from billet steel with carburising and heating process.
Selector forks are also made from billet steel with tig welded shifting part (pin lock inside just to be safe
) with nitriding process on the end.
Constant and 5th gear are specialy machined to be more quiet.
We have now more than 5pcs in stock so no waiting for production.
We are always keeping around 5 pcs of every part of our dogbox kit in stock for fast delivery to customer in case of problem (short time before the race etc).
Is this enough?
How does your gearset compare to Speedtek's gearset for $3,650 AUD?
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56 minutes ago, BK said:
I take it we wouldn't get charged VAT, so for us Aussies over here around $7600AUD + plus shipping plus import tax / import duty / GST etc. is about $10k AUD before installation. That's a hard sell mate compared to a locally available PAR or PPG H pattern gearset. You'd have to give SAU a pretty good run down of all the technical info ie. Ratio options, gearset material and construction, selector fork material and construction, additional treatment / finishing processes. Get my drift ? Fill us in on the specifics if you will.
In saying that, last time I looked PPG were charging over $15k AUD for their gearset before shipping. Hopefully they will give us more details, I'm interested at least. Blew up my 3rd gtst box last weekend, HMU if you want to discount me a gearbox for testing 😀
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Hi guys, I am located in Perth W.A and if anyone in Australia has a good condition RB25 Neo complete I am interested in buying it please.
I am also searching for advice with rebuilding a RB25 Neo for the utmost reliability to handle 550-600rwhp on Ethanol, e85 fuel. With a budget in mind - I originally budgeted $15k. Engine will be going into my 1997 R33 GTS25T Skyline.
Here's what I am looking at doing:
Acid bath, crack test crank, block and head.
Machine block deck surface, bore and hone cylinders to suit 86.5MM pistons. Machine tunnel for main bearings (do I need oversize or undersize bearings for the crank or potentially leave it as is if ok?)
Pistons: CP Forged 86.5MM Pistons: $1607.00
Spool Connecting Rods: $898.00
ARP Main Stud Kit: $315.00
ARP Head Stud Kit - 2000 series: $399
Nitto Head Gasket 87MM: $495.00
RB25 Nitto Oil Pump: $1,500
Oil restrictor as per Oil control thread: ~$80
Lewis Engines Oil Sump: $600
ACL Race Bearings - Big end and Mains: $215.00
Taarks oil relocator / oil cooler: $1,100
Injector Dynamics 1300cc injectors (bit expensive but my tuner recommended them): $1,700
Freddys intank hanger for R33: $1,195
Upgrade fuel lines to 8AN to fuel rail: $1,200 - Is this required for 600rwhp?
Fully recondition head, cut new seats, new guides, new seals, Supertec valve springs and retainers, surface head, inspect and reuse oem valves: $3,500 - $4,200
PRP rear head drain: $360.00
Machine Work/measure/check clearances etc: $2,000
Mantic Twin plate, cushioned Cerametallic clutch: $2,195
Full Nissan Timing kit: $800
All up I'm looking at ~$20-22,000 including a tune. Is there anything I have missed out on, or should add/remove?
I already have a Plazmaman FFP manifold, fuel rail, PRP LS alternator, 6 boost manifold, GTX3076 Gen 2 w/60mm Turbosmart gate, NZWiring CAS and R35 GTR coils.
Will I be able to reuse my Plazmaman fuel rail which is on my Series 2 at the moment, or is a neo rail different (two different part numbers, I'm guessing yes).
Would a stock gearbox handle 600rwhp for awhile if not driven aggressively?
Thank you
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Hi Hypergear,
I am interested in a 600rwhp capable turbocharger for my built rb25 neo engine 9:1 compression ratio. Will be running a 6 boost manifold (would you suggest a t3/t4 or a v-band inlet?).
What would be the most responsive turbo you have in this range?
Thank you.
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18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yes, but....make sure that you are prepared for bearings, because you will be exposing at least the rod bearings and when you do and find that they are f**ked, you would be equally f**ked (in the head) to put them back in that way. And if the rod bearings are f**ked, there's better than even money on the mains.
And.....front and and rear main seals, plus a timing belt and a water pump, because you would also be insane to not replace them while access is easy. And look for broken exhaust studs. Plus a full gasket set, etc.
Make sure you have the money required to put it back together ready, instead of sitting in a pile of parts until you scrap the whole lot!
Does this sound worth it for $15k AUD in your opinion?
Spool Forged H-Beam Connecting Rods
Ross Forged Pistons 20 thou
Brand New ACL Main/Big End bearings
Factory RB25 oil pump housing with factory gears + Extended Grub Screwed Crank Collar
Block Acid Dipped, Crank crack tested, block bored and honed to suit pistons, deck block, tap all holes and new welsh plugs
Measure and check tolerances of all engine components
Supertec valve springs and retainers
New valve guides and stem seals
Permaseal MSL-R 87MM headgasket
New front, rear and cam seals
Complete new timing kit w/N1 Water pump.
= $15,000 AUD
(Optional $450 OEM Crank Dampener)
(Optional $350 Fit rear head drain)
(Optional $1100 extended and baffled sump)
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4 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
There are still good wrecker motors out there. I would expect that you'd be able to find something decent for around the $2,000 to $3,000 range. If you can do the swap yourself that would be the cheapest option.
In a perfect world, you could then rebuild your old motor yourself without any pressure to get it sorted urgently.
Can't find any NEOs under $4000.
Machine shop near me will supply and machine the block to suit Ross pistons, deck and new rod/main bearings for $3500. I just have to pull it out and put it back in.
I'm just concerned I'll need to spend money on the head or something else and it will blow out to a $15k build. But in saying that I wouldn't want to sell the car with the engine in the condition it is.
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4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yes, because that will fix the cylinder sealing issue.
Yes, and it will cost whatever your parts cost is, plus a few grand. Your parts cost will depend on how baller your parts are.
$15k buys pretty good parts and work for just a bottom end freshen up. But it is impossible to say whether it is good value or not without a complete list of what's included in terms of both parts and labour and machining.
At the moment I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, I don't know how much longer it will last.
I was looking for the cheapest option possible, second hand motors are a waste of time now as generally they would be worn out too.
I think deck, bore and pistons will be the cheapest?
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My 33 has been making just over 400rwhp for at least 2-3 years now, unfortunately recently it has started to push out the dip stick. I have tried to leviate the issue but installing a better flowing catch can, rb26 covers with better baffles and it has helped, but my catch can is now filling up with about 3l of oil every 2000km (have to keep topping it up every week with about a litre of oil too).
Unfortunately I think it's time for a rebuild. Still not sure if I want to sell the Skyline as it is starting to cost me a lot of money and stuff keeps on breaking. I've just put a new gearbox, steering rack, accessories on the motor, rebuilt the front and rear subframes, new coilovers, new diff centre.
Would I be able to buy some 20 over pistons and just have the block decked and bored out to fix this? Or should I go ahead and put new rods, pistons, oil pump etc in and how much would that cost approximately?
Local shop wants $15k if I pull the engine out.
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Hello China man can I have some cheap parts?
Also is it true Coronavirus is the longest lasting thing China has made?
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17 hours ago, ossy said:
Hi,
I've got an R33 rb25de manual and need a new clutch. Will an RB25det clutch be a direct fit or will I need the det flywheel as well?
I know this has been asked a couple of times but they are old threads and couldnt find a definite answer on them. Some posts say yes but some say no so confused lol.
It will not work without the corresponding turbo flywheel due to the diameter being bigger on the turbo clutch.
Input shafts are the same as far as I know, so you shouldn't have an issue with it engaging, but check it on the transmission before install.
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Thought I'd try here incase someone has one laying around they want to sell or where I can buy them in Australia?
Mine has rusted thru and is super loud, any options?
2005 v35 sedan.
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Looking at getting a engine built by Danny @ Garage101.
Had a quick search and can't find many results.
Are they pretty good?
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Hi guys, I really like GKTECH as a company bought heaps of quality stuff from them. But unfortunately they only sell rose-jointed arms, I understand in a race car you 100% don't want the flex from a bush. However my R33 really only sees street driving, with the rare venture to the track.
I would like to buy a complete rear suspension arm kit which is adjustable (my car is lowered) but which has bushes.
Now, am I right in saying that rose-joints and solid bushes etc in the rear end promote cracking/abnormal wear of the chassis due to it being fatigued?
Should I just go ahead and purchase the gktech arm kit and will it still drive nicely on the street without too much harshness?
Cheers.
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28 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:
Nah man, adjustments for facing head and block are a few degrees, one whole tooth is 16 from memory. One whole tooth is way too much
Ok, I dare say that's not the issue then my bad.
I'd say OP is extremely lucky if it hasn't done any damage.
Also Ben do you still have a RB or have you gone to the dark side?
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On 11/26/2020 at 9:55 AM, V35_Paul said:
hmmm
try the same thing on the Traction control button.
Or pull out the ABS fuse maybe 🤷♂️
Hi Paul,
Thanks for your help, last weekend I went to a drift day. Turned out to almost be a bust up, tried the traction control, pulled the ABS fuse. Car was still doing it.
Turned out to be fuel surge, even with a full tank the fuel was still managing to get away from the fuel pickup.
Lucky my mate giving me a hand, we removed the factory fuel pump, took the bottom plastic thing off underneath it that I guess is meant to act as a baffle and with some longer fuel hose, lowered the pump a further 120mm into the tank. The fuel sock would be about 10mm off the bottom of the tank (bad idea to make it touch).
Went thru 8 tires after that
fixed it.
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2 hours ago, Joey J said:
Balancer looks good. When I pulled it off the crank gear mark lined up with the timing mark on the block.
Im assuming below is why the cams are both off by 4 teeth. Not sure. Between those 2 teeth was that crud had pretty much turned into a rock.
I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at the shop and no one noticed the timing was off. Is it possible it was set like that on purpose? I don’t see why that would be done.
Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there.
I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked.
Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack.
Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this.
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Hi guys, this weekend I helped my friend install a Nismo Super Copper mix twin plate clutch into his GTR.
We followed the Nissan Service Manual where applicable, and Nismo's instructions for installing the clutch - Along with using proper ARP hardware for the flywheel, and the bolts supplied by Nismo all torqued to spec.
As well, we replaced the master and slave with new OEM Nissan parts, and vacuum bled the whole system.
The clutch feels great and the dead play is within the factory spec as per the Nissan Factory Service manual.
Clutch drives great on the street no issues.
The issue he is having, when parked on a hill with the car off. If you put the car into first gear, let out the clutch and use the gearbox to essentially hold the car on the hill (so all the load is on the gearbox). You can't disengage the transmission out of first gear by pushing the clutch in (shifter locks into place), the car also won't roll backwards if you push the clutch in.
I've told him not to do this as its essentially not great for the drivetrain and to use the handbrake, place car into neutral so the handbrake has the weight and then put the car into gear.
Apparently it never use to do this with the single plate clutch in it. Is this a normal characteristic of a twin disc clutch or would this indicate the clutch isn't adjusted 100% correctly?
Clutch doesn't seem to drag, in first gear with the clutch pushed in you can free rev it and car won't move.
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On 11/17/2020 at 5:52 PM, V35_Paul said:
hold down the VDC for 8sec plus. Then it will turn off completely.
It might turn back on after a while if your not doing cool skids
Mine doesn't have vdc button or the bosch sensor under the centre console?
It only has traction control button.
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Definitely have a lot of respect for you going down this rabbit hole lol.
Unfortunately these nissans arent like the older s/r chassis where you could put them together like legos and everything would just work.
The main issues your going to have is Nissan Anti Theft, which is quite an anal system I had issues with it when I manual swapped my v35.
The ecu requires that it matches up with the key, also if you have the keyless start it wants permission from the tcm as well.
The tcm part is quite easy to over write, but as far as the ecu part goes that will be tricky (could I suggest a standalone).
Going a standalone ecu does away with the complexities of the nissan anti theft, hopefully the vq25det has the same pim outs as a 350z so you can get a plug and play ecu.
Are you going to stay auto or manual swap it?
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Has anyone drifted a stock v35? Mine throttles down everytime I go into a corner hard, even with traction control off.
Doesn't have stability control, or at least a way to turn it off unless I'm mistaken?
Kind regards,
Blake.
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21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Fixed that for you?
Hey you changed the quote I said burnouts fix everything.
Clutch is mint now.
V35 Oil Coolers - PS and Oil
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
Posted
The issue with the outlets being on the bottom is the cooler doesn't fully fill up with oil. It will take the path of least resistance. Someone I think it was Derale did a video and proved it only 1/4 filled up.