Blakeo

Hi guys, I am chasing the rear subframe torque specs. Does anyone know where I can find these specs? I've searched on here and the closest I can get is the R32 GTR specs - is that what everyone uses?

I can't even get my hands on japanese wiring diagram at the moment.

100% best suggestion is to take it to a mechanic, RB26s aren't cheap these days hoping for the best for you!

Hi guys, In my endeavour to repair my V35 sedan I acquired a V35 coupe series 2 chassis which I was expecting to be able to swap the loom into the sedan. Unfortunately some parts of the harness are different and there is no communication between the ECU/BCM. I understood it may not work, but at the time was my best option to get my car up and running. Being that it is a drift car I didn't mind if none of the door electrics and so forth didn't work in the back of the sedan. Regards, Blake.

Essentially the whole dash loom needs replacement, also looks like now the ECU is bricked from possible 12v shorting thru the canbus I have found one guy local who is a legend, that has parted a series 1 v35 sedan and hoping the loom from this can be used. At the moment I don't think it will work but going to give it a shot. Cheers.

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone knew someones uncles cousins goldfish that may have a v35 skyline series 2 dash loom to suit sedan (i think coupe is likely the same too). Long story but mine caught fire and need a replacement, Nissan would like over $5,000AUD so thought before reshelling I would ask. Thank you.

Least your wiring harness hasn't caught on fire yet like mine.

Hey Duncan, Thanks for replying. The cheapest quote I have been able to get to setup a body loom, as in just headlights, brakes, indicators and have the ecu be standalone is $8,500+gst and will need to buy an aftermarket ecu in the region of ~$2,000. Does the above sound right? Just seems to be super expensive, I didn't want anything fancy just for the car to drive. I don't think even an auto sparky would be able to fix the wiring harness, its an absolute mess. Hoping someone here knows if a series 1 harness will fit. I have found the IPDM wiring pin outs are slightly different, but I don't know if that's an issue if I buy the whole series 1 wiring harness with modules.. I guess then my series 2 ecu won't work.

P.S anyone with access to the factory wiring diagrams would be majorly benefical please HMU.

Hi guys I have a 2005 Nissan Skyline v35 with the 3.5L VQ35DE. Not impressive I know, its my drift car and the wiring harness that goes behind the back of the dash caught fire. I have since tried to repair the harness, but being a amateur I think the wiring is responsible for the dash having no power and not being able to start the engine.... I have sourced a series 1 wiring harness, what is the chances it will work with my series 2 at least good enough to make the drift event this saturday?? Otherwise does anyone know any work arounds, I am kind of desperate. CHEERS.

My friends girlfriends dad has a r33 gtst and his rear brakes didn't hold up with 989 million kws of power.

Hi guys, I was considering buying a RB25DET NEO AWD from a C34 Stageau. I was expecting to swap the sump and pickup and that was it, which is what the engine importer lead me to believe. Being cautious I did some research and it appears the oil pickup inlet on the block is in a different spot to the RWD so even using RWD pickup it will be in the wrong spot in relation to the sump? It also looks like the steel braces that go from the block to the gearbox are not able to be used when using the AWD block as the provisions for the brace to bolt to are not there. Can anyone please confirm the above, its hard to get a definite as posts are contradicting - I am hope someone here has done the conversion and can tell me from experience. Best regards, Blake.

just out of interest how much would something like this cost to get fixed?

Hi guys, I have a 2005 V35 Coupe which is a track car only. I'm looking at getting some more power out of the vq35de is there any modifications which can be done to a budget to get a decent gain? The only modification I can find worth while is supercharging it to gain ~100whp. I come from owning modified Honda's where engine swaps are generally pretty straight forward. Is there an engine swap to a vq35hr or even the vq37 which can be made to work with the v35 chassis (doesn't matter if some things don't work for example ac/tachometer etc) does it bolt up the same as a de? I'm really asking for advice on which may be the most cost effective method to go. Thank you.

Ok sorry I should rephase my question. But good answer haha. How can I make 400whp that isn't using nitrous.

I am running a cd009 behind my rb25det in a r33 gts25t. Serial nine shifter lines up almost perfectly in the factory hole. As far as driverability goes the 4.11 stock rear diff ratio is a bit too short, maybe 3.7s would be more suitable (on order). Other than that the cd box seems to chatter a lot more, maybe because i deleted the dual mass flywheel.

Hi guys, As the title states what is the most cost effective way to make 400whp from a vq35de in a V35 skyline chassis. I'm looking at all available options even an engine swap, price is a major factor. Cheers.

I had the same issue with mine. I found the line was blocked somehow on mine. I used compressed air and blew out the sludge.

Hi guys, I did a manual conversion on my 2005 v35 skyline sedan. I am finding it really hard to find the series 2 manual shifter trim for where the shifter goes and the centre console. Any chance someone here knows where to get them from, or I can buy from? I have tried Yahoo Japan with no luck

Hi guys, lately my V35 drift car has been hard to get into first/reverse when idling at a stop sometimes. I have tried adjusting the clutch pedal, giving it the maximum preload one way so it releases the clutch the most (just for testing) which doesn't help. I've since adjusted it back to its correct positioning so there is no preload on the pressure plate etc. Also sometimes when letting out the clutch, I get a bit of vibration thru the pedal. I'm guessing the flywheel is a bit warped due to all the heat cycles from drifting it. I have bled the clutch system properly as well. Transmission fluid etc is all new Any suggestions to help it, except for removing the flywheel and getting it reground? Regards, Blake.

You need to buy a $15 VAG cable and Nissan Datascan to find out what's wrong with it.

Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail? Thank you for going into detail with the pics and all.

Hi guys, I am planning on upgrading the fuel system on my R33 skyline. Ideally I need enough fuel to handle 600rwhp on E85, but want to build it to handle at least 700hp for a bit of a safety margin. I am planning on pulling the fuel tank out since the sock fell in the tank upon removing the fuel pump. Is there any modifications I should do to the tank whilst it is out of the car, I'm already planning on putting on all new hoses (also what grade hose is best, will need to support e85). For the tank, I am planning on buying a FPG fuel hat. Then go 200 series fuel hose to the front of the car. Is it best to run the fuel hose all the way up, or run bigger fuel lines like how the factory has the setup? Any recommendations from others who have upgraded their fuel system, like the cleanest way to setup the fuel relay, how to route the hoses, what to hold the hoses underneath the car (thinking of using Chriso's billet fuel line holders). Also, last thing does anyone know where to buy the "baffle" bit which goes where you fill the tank up and its function is to stop you putting diesel in the car (prevents the wider fuel nooze going into the filler) since at some point in my cars life its been removed. Thank you

Sorry, I meant budget wise. There are good options from PPG, but your looking at $10k+ And generally dogbox's like in this case don't last a long time on the street.

Thanks Kink for taking the time to reply properly, I understand what you mean. My main reason is just excessive blowby causing dipstick to blow out under boost even with a well ventilated breather setup. I'm not sure if new rings/bearings will fix it due to the age of the motor and the bore possibly being out of round. Fair enough, amazing how in all of these years there isn't a good solution for a H-Pattern gearbox onto a RB. The T56/CD009 conversions I've seen are bunky, generally the t56 ones I've seen aren't aligned the best and seem to have a whole host of issues. Come on Dose, why you have to do this haha. I'd love to JZ/Barra swap it but there's easy 10-15k in the swap which could be better used in upgrading the RB. My factory motor has been making just over 400rwhp for over 3 years now, as you mentioned they are reliable at this power level. I've seen JZs hold 600rwhp on the stock bottom end for years, its just RBs have so many inherent design problems and a weak block it puts me off taking the car to the next level especially due to the cost of a built motor and the hot side setup.