Blakeo

I'd rather cut and shut the factory manifold over buying one of these abortions. Yes they work if you machine the flange on it. But they weigh at least half as much as an rb, no honestly they're heavy as and the casting on the inside of the runners is sketchy. I wouldn't trust some of the casting slag to come off and get sucked into the engine, just not worth the risk in my opinion. Factory intake is good, multiple people have used them over 450rwkw.

Jesus dude that's running extremely rich, stop running it and tow it to a tuners asap.

Hi guys, I understand that adding more power isn't always the best thing to do and its more skill related drifting. However my V35, 1st gear is perfect will spin the wheels more easily. 2nd gear it bogs too much and even clutch kicks won't help it keeping the wheels spinning. I have tried going down to a 225 width tyre, putting 1.5 degrees of negative camber and pumping the tyres up to 45-50psi. Also I have gone from 3.5 ratio diff gears to 3.9 ratio diff gears, which hasn't really helped and just added to the issue because now 1st gear is even shorter and still bogs in second. The course I'm training on is fairly small so can't get up much speed and with the tight corners you bleed too much speed off anyway. Maybe I just need more practice, but I also feel 2nd gear is letting me down a lot. Also pulling the abs fuse wouldn't put the car into limp mode would it? I feel the car makes more power with the abs fuse in, but that sounds stupid as it shouldn't make a difference just doesn't seem to rev out as easily. Any advice appreciated EDIT: Car is a 2005 model with VQ35DE engine (non-rev up).

Does anyone know a locally available bluetooth/wifi nissan consult 2 adapter which works with our v35 skylines? wanting to use it with realdash for logging purposes.

I went thru Commbank and I am in W.A too. I financed my Skyline when I was 19 and 3 years later I own it outright. I had no issues with it, had stable full time employment and don't regret it. Not everyone has $30k sitting in their bank ready to buy a Skyline. Just make sure you get it inspected by a mechanic that has good knowledge of RBs (in W.A I'd recommend PZP in Wangara). And don't expect to daily drive it, it will have issues - but these vintage Skyline's are like legos very easy to fix just comes down to $ and time.

Honestly mate don't let the other comments unmotivate you, it's good to have competition - especially since Powertune seems to be ruling the cheap digital gauge market at the moment. My gripe with Powertune is the lack of external sensor support so its basically just a CanBus display... Seems like you are on the right track though and I am interested to see where you get with it, if you have support for Link ECU's and can support external sensors with a decent display I would consider buying one right now. Cheers.

Considering buying a set of 18s for my 350z drift car, is weight of the wheel a consideration as the rotas seem to be fairly heavy. Are forged wheels lighter? Enkei rpf1s seem to be a good mix between cheap and lightweight. I'm guessing the lightweight wheels will help with spinning them?

Everyone here veered straight off what I was trying to ask, I wasn't after a safety lecture. I don't usually leave the car in 1st gear on a hill ffs. What I was trying to ask is, if I am on a hill and for whatever reason the gearbox is the reason its being held on the hill (lets say its in a controlled environment, in the middle of mexico, with bubble wrap all around it and cotton wool just in case) it won't let me pull it out of gear (even with the clutch pushed in of course) unless I start the car. That is on my V35 with a twin plate, solid center clutch. It's been in the car for over 20,000km and doesn't show any other signs of dragging the clutch. My R33, you can hold it on the hill in gear with the gearbox and if you push the clutch in even with the motor off it will let you pull it out of gear, the v35 doesn't do that. Is that a symptom of a twin plate clutch, or is there potentially something else wrong - like maybe clutch drag even though I highly doubt that being the issue.

Yep, after the 30 minute drive. Let car sit for a bit, went down about half a litre (that's what it took to refill it to the full line). So if anyone is reading this with the Concept Z Performance kit and wondering the same as me, overfill it 0.5 litres and you'll be sweet

Just installed a thermostatic (80 degrees) engine oil cooler on my v35. I pre-filled the oil filter and cooler with engine oil. The lines to the cooler I did not prefill. Would the lines get filled when I start the car/prime the oil, or do does the oil need to get to 80 degrees inside the engine first, before it will send oil to the cooler and hence prime the lines of oil. I was considering overfilling the sump by half a litre, incase this happens. Still waiting on some other parts, so won't be starting it anytime soon just curious. Cheers.

Unfortunately WA Police/Transport Department is all over it now. I went to quite a few different inspection centres and none of them have any/much leniency now they're all by the book. As a couple inspection centres I use to use got taken out for passing off cars not compliant apparently. Time to get it engineered

Lol I know your suppose to and generally I do but I'm thinking the clutch is dragging a bit.

I think he means because I've installed a inline fuel filter before the fuel rail it could be causing a restriction which is pretty likely. Full send though.

Is this a common thing? Last time I took it down to the drags I broke the stock engine mounts, they were brand new when the engine went in - but I guess they aren't designed for the increase in torque/kickback the engine has now. I ordered a set of Nismo mounts which are meant to be 30-40% stiffer. I got a fair few passes out of these and have been in the car for the last 12 months, but again the drivers side engine mount has broken. Is this common on higher hp rb's? Am I missing something, all the drivetrain alignment is the same as factory and the car has no vibration. I need to get it over the pits because I recently got yellow'd but afterwards, I am going to try out Tuff Mounts.

Is this a normal thing for a solid center twin plate clutch? The clutch in my 33 is a single plate HD clutch.

For some reason my '05 350z will get stuck in first gear when parked on a hill, this is only if the gearbox is holding it (if the handbrake is, its fine). I won't be able to pull it out of first gear, even if I push the clutch in with the car off and it won't roll back either even with the clutch in. The only way to release it, is to turn the car on with the clutch in and then I can pull it out but it always makes a big thud. Is that normal, in my R33 I can push the clutch in even with the car off and load on the transmission and change it out of 1st.

I was thinking the same thing, I'm pretty certain they will be hard on me. Bit of an issue going back to stock, I'll need everything - intake manifold, injectors, maf series 2, series 2 ecu etc. See how I go finding that stuff locally. I already have modification permits for my coilovers,intercooler and exhaust. Regarding the rear arms, I'd need to find stock parts too.. Bit of a bust up. Will see how I go, and post back with results for anyone else wondering. I live in Perth W.A

My R33 got defected this afternoon, I understand they will go over the entire car at the pits. My car has a few aftermarket suspension arms in the rear, gktech camber arms and hicas delete. Do I need the HICAS to pass pit inspection? Also engine bay wise, it has a FFP aftermarket turbo (still on the factory exhaust manifold), aftermarket fuel rail, I will need to fix the breather system at the moment it goes to a big catch tank. It also has a Nismo 1.5way diff does that matter? Thank you.

In the engine bay I replaced the fuel feed line that goes from the fuel quick connect, to the fuel line dampener. I also placed an aftermarket fuel filter inline which is rated for EFI. The issue I'm having is when starting the car will cough a little bit, until fuel pressure comes up and its fine. If you turn the key once before starting to prime the fuel system, starts no issue. Issue only started to happen after I replaced this line, so I'm thinking there's either a check valve in there or my fuel filter has added capacity it has to fill so needs to prime longer? Unfortunately I had to install the fuel filter to protect my new injectors, the fuel tank was rusty and stuffed up the old fuel system. I had to buy a new tank, new pump, injectors, replaced all soft lines and cleaned out the factory hard lines. Any suggestions? Thank you.

My mate has a R31 track car, unfortunately the oil cooler he bought uses a sandwich plate without provisions for oil temp/pressure sensors. His RB30 block hasn't got provisions for oil feed being an N/A (not even blocked off, just don't exist?). The only other place I can see us getting the oil temp/pressure sensors a oil feed is from the oil pressure switch, but I am not sure if its okay to tee three sensors off this port (oil switch, temp and pressure sensors). The only other solution I can think of is putting another oil sandwich plate on there so we can have the excess ports. Any ideas?

At the moment I have 9.5 +10 and they sit about 20-25mm outside the guards though at the back😛

How many RB25's are out there making 600rwhp reliably? I am in the process of getting mine built by a reputable engine builder here in W.A. I just don't want to throw my money away, it will be getting built with good name brand parts (CP, Nitto, ACL etc). Is 600whp too much of a stretch for a 25 long term, block integrity etc? Anything I should look out for, or know before pulling the pin. I know about the RBs oiling issues, and have read the oil control thread. My build will get a 9L sump, proper restrictors, strengthened oil pump/collar, good baffling and my r33 already has a accusump setup in it.

Hi guys, I wanted to know what is the best wheel spec in a 18" rim size for a v35 skyline. I have searched and found opinions ranging from +30 - +44mm I am looking at some Rota Grid R's which are 18x9.5"+38mm Offset, would they be suitable for the front and rear of my car without hitting on anything? I also will be running a slightly stretched 235/45 tyre on them, with 1.5 degrees of negative camber. Thank you

Went drifting last night and quickly found out my 15 year old radiator fans weren't up to the task. The one on the drivers side would spin very slowly not doing anything. What options do I have for radiator fans, can I just replace the electric motors on them or is there a better upgrade option? Thank you

All sorted $1,200 later at CZP lol.