Blakeo

He said he wanted to make big power, not make whale moaning noises with a LS.

Getting the small ends touched up is pretty normal as most rods come "pre-finished". My nitto rods came like that even when ordered with nitto pistons and machine shop is going to have to touch them up too. They seem to be a good score, just not too sure I'd want to support a chinese company given the current climate with Coronavirus.

What's wrong with FIFO workers haha, if he was fifo he'd have a r34 ? On topic: Kudos Motorsport has always done the right thing by me and are very good to deal with.

Sounds like an Immobilizer. Take it to an auto sparky and have them remove it for a newer one, or altogether.

I currently have a blown up Series 2 in my R33 Skyline, I do not believe it was from lack of oil pressure as my logs from my Link ecu does not show loss of oil pressure. However, I've still managed to spin the 3rd main bearing. I am putting this down to wear and tear (the motor is the original 20+ year old motor, had 244,000km and running 400rwhp for more than 4 years). I currently have a NEO 25DET at engine shop being modified to suit some new nitto pistons and rods, I've chosen to go for the Sine drive nitto pump, and grub screwed collar as well. The machine shop has recommended getting the oil drains drilled out 1.5mm bigger and the head and block modified to suit rb26 head studs size. PRP rear head drain will be fitted as well as rb26 valve covers and hi-octane baffle kit. On top of all this I've also ordered a Lewis Engines oversized and baffled sump as well as a accusump to finish off the oiling system. The machine shop will also be polishing the inside of the block (to clean up the castings) and spraying it with a special coating I forgot the name but they said this helps the oil flow back to the sump and cleaning up the hard edges on the oil pump. This combination, with a garrett gt3076 gen 2 0.83 AR should hopefully make a fairly safe 600whp on e85. Is there any other modifications I should get done whilst the motor is apart?

Gone off them now, too many broken on evo forums

I recently bought some rota grid wheels for my r33, I noticed when fitting them they were pretty heavy and not to sure I'm happy with them for that fact. I do like the way they look though. I heard te37s are similar weight. Are their many 18" wheels that are under 10kg and forged, I've seen rpf1s are fairly light. How much does it really matter? I heard unsprung mass makes a big difference, car does feel down on power a bit.

Yeah wow, that's really shitty service then.

I know what you mean mate, but you must've brought the crank before they released this.

Yeah looks like Nissan got their prices mixed up for these, I wouldn't mind one of them. Wonder how it compares to Thor's Hammer?

Get excited boys looks like Nitto has fixed the RB oil pump breakages for good (hopefully): Only issue is will probably cost over $3k AUD+

I don't mind fixed back, but my mate got yellowed for having a fixed back sparco in his. I believe it may be legal if registered as a two seater I'll need to look into it. Maybe getting a set of gtr seats retrimmed will be the best option.

I'm after some nice holding, yet fairly comfortable seats for my r33 gtst. I'm not interested in China brides, I also don't want to dick around welding brackets in/to the seat rails or chassis - let's keep it simple and high quality. Is it too much to ask for a driver's seat under $2k, that fits like factory with the seat rail slider that's easily sourced in Australia (closer to w.a the better). I don't really care about the passenger getting flung around ?? With her popular skylines are I didn't think it'd be hard to source some half decent seats. Please don't suggest gtr seats, too hard to source atm due to coronavirus and they've had 20+ years of juices slammed into them. Thank you ?

I need one of these atm for how dusty my 33 is.

Got the block back from the cyro treaters today. I tested the block, using the same tool as before. It tested as 242. I don't believe this is a big enough increase for it to be due to the cyro treating, could be more due to different testing temperature differences or slight tool inaccuracy. Time for full build to begin now

Yes I'm using a hardness tester using the Leeb rebound hardness test.

Has anyone here attempted to cyro treat a Rb block? I've seen a few build threads where guys suggest it, but never any results. MotiveDVD proved the Rb blocks are soft, cyro treating would help harden the blocks and make them less likely to crack between the bores. I've got my Rb25 series 2 block at the cyro treaters atm and will compare it when it gets back (hopefully this Friday) Rb25 series 2 block (untreated) : 238

Hey man, my clutch just came thru my seat today. Weird coincidence.

Thanks guys I've just placed an order for a Koyo and will report back.

Aftermarket ecu?

Water pump is 100%, new genuine Nissan unit. I will try rebleed coolant tomorrow. New genuine mishimoto radiator no good?

Were you able to monitor your temps? stock gauge doesnt start moving until 105 ..

Cheers at the moment it comes on with the compressor. Already have Link G4+ ecu and it is setup like this. Yep its working, I'd say it puts out slightly less air than the clutch fan though. Maybe I should replace this fan?

Yep, they are nitrided. A lot of factory crankshafts are nitrided from factory..

Linishing a rb crank is a bad idea will remove the nitrided surface. Will be interesting to see how it goes.