Blakeo

Unfortunately I can not stay OEM manifold, as the top plenum of the OEM manifold has cracked. This was as a result of a workshop who won't admit liability even though it happened on their premises. Plazmaman would be my choice everyday, but I do not have a lot of money.. But I can squeeze if its really better than the freddy.

I can't decide if I should go FFP on my R33 Skyline. Ideally I want the Plazmaman top plenum replacement one. But I can't justify spending this much money on just a manifold. I was considering the FREDDY manifold, acknowledging I'd need to deck face which sits against head and remachine a water coolant neck. Is it worth the $700 saving? I can do the machine work myself so I wouldn't associate this as a cost. Is it true that the freddy/greddy manifolds cause cylinder 6 to run lean? I will not buy an Otaku/pro flow manifold, I have seen countless issue with those from the bad welds. Is there any other manifolds I should look into buying? Would running oem throttle body give any issue with the Plazmaman manifold and to anyone who has bought it was it worth the $1000? Thank you.

I have a carbon fiber one piece one here, would have to know the length of yours from trans seal to differential flange. Can do it $300 + shipping I live in w.a so shipping would be about $80.

Hi 30ed32, unfortunately no you cannot unless you swap the centre in your Y33. The issue is the spline count on the stub axles. The 6x1 axles have 31 splines and your 5x1 Y33 axles will have 29 splines. Only way around this is to swap in a diff centre which has the same offset as yours (be careful with this because changing the gear ratio can sometimes alter the offset of the diff centre) but has the internal spline count of the 6x1 stub axles. Best bet in this case would be to grab the diff with the 3.69 ratio and swap your centre into this diff using the 6x1 stub axles. You need to know what you are doing because the differential needs to be setup correctly. Best bet would be to take it to a diff shop to get done. Otherwise if you are thinking of DIY, pm me and I can help walk you through.

Okay after a couple weeks, it has made the noise a couple times which leads me to believe it wasn't the timing chains, vtc gear or tensioners which is unfortunate. I have modified the cat heat shields to ensure they cannot rattle. I have replaced fuel dampener and AC compressor belt has been taken off and isolated. I have replaced both bank vtc gears and also have replaced the vtc solenoids on top of the gears. Which has cost $1200 just in parts from nissan not to mention gaskets and so furth. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have it booked in on Wednesday to a mechanic who specializes in 350/370z's only thing I'm concerned about is it only happens rarely now maybe once a week.

I refuse to believe it's rust even though it is.

My 33 has pin holes in the boot floor, just wondering what the best way to cover these up, I was considering doing tact welds and cleaning it up nicely but will have to drop fuel tank. Doesn't appear to be due to rust rather gravel/sand hitting it.

It seems like no one makes seats to suit the skylines which are road legal. Easy looking at $2500 for a pair of seats. I was only looking at spending $1000 maybe 1500.

Anyone know a place that will afterpay a crank pulley for a Rb25?

Bit of an update. I did the whole timing except for the two secondary tensioners which are good anyway. Also replaced the right side bank vtc gear. Doesn't appear to be making noise anymore, must have been chain, tensioner or vtc gear. Will update post in couple weeks when can be sure it is the solution.

I'm looking at buying some seats to suit my r33 gtst as stock seats don't have enough support. I have found r33 gtr seats for $1500 locally but bit more than I want to spend for second hand seats. Are their any better options for new seats which are safety tested or other good options. Please show me what you guys are using. Thank you.

Anyone?

Hi guys, my girlfriend has a v35 skyline with the vq35de engine. Around 2000-3000rpm it has a rattle noise in the motor but it won't do it all the time. I don't believe its heat shields but I've pried them off and made sure they have more than enough clearance not to touch exhaust. I've read on here that the issue can sometimes not be the chain but the vtc cam gear can cause the noise. Is there anyway I can diagnose this to be 100% sure what the issue is as doing the chains is a big job especially if it's not the problem. Car has no rattle on start up and otherwise drives nicely and has no power loss.

Because the factory rbs seem to be able to last and take a fair bit of abuse. But then you can have a guy who has a forged Rb and the bearings last one event.

I have not seen a rebuilt Rb last like the factory one though. Even my tuner said once you take apart the bottom end you let the unicorn out. Rbs just can't handle abuse and barras around here are cheap and easily available. The neo I'd have to get shipped but that is a good price. Also barras weigh 250kg with everything on, Rb25 is 210kg with everything on. 40kg surely can't make that much difference? I'm sort of talking myself into the Barra conversion, only thing putting me off is car wouldn't be street legal..

Unfortunately the motor in my 33 is worn out after a good 4 years of ownership with most of it at 400rwhp. I've been quoted $5.5k to rebuild to factory spec with upgraded oil pump gears. Would I be better to swap a Barra engine in? I can pickup a fg xr6t motor, 6 speed gearbox and ecu for $5k with 40,xxxkm on it. Neos are upwards of $4.5k. What should I do? I can see the Barra conversion being expensive.

R33 Gts25t it makes 420rwhp

Is it worth the $1400 aud to upgrade my vlsd to 1.5 way kaaz? I mostly street drive the car, but last time I went to the drags it would one wheel peel for a bit before both wheels hooked. I do plan to go to the track at some stage as well. Do they make the car handle much better? Is it noticeable street driving?

Hi guys, just wondering for those who have done a Hicas delete. What did you guys do with the spare wiring in the boot? Going to get a 38mm blind grommet from Clark rubber today to seal up the big hole. I've also noticed unfortunately my 33 has tiny rust holes underneath the spare tyre where I guess the water has caused from where it use to pool up from the headlights letting it in. Is it appropriate to use body sealer to seal these up, or is there a better solution? I'd wire wheel them, then paint and body seal over. Thank you.

Hi guys, I couldn't find clear and concise information when searching. I have a 2005 v35 350gt Skyline. It has the factory stereo which is Non-Bose. I would like to install the 2din Android auto head unit I have purchased. Would this facia kit suit my car? https://www.nissanautosports.com/infiniti-g35-jdm-double-din-finisher-and-dual-a-c-control-assembly-2519-prd1.htm How would I bracket the radio to this facia, and is it a straight bolt up or would it require modifications I'm not familiar with how the v35s secure the radio. Thank you for any help, or if there is a better option. I'm not a fan of the mantra or aerpro kits.

So only real decent option is to go aftermarket.

Just realised as well, gear ratios on the 350z diff aren't ideal 3.5 compared to 4.11s. First gear is a bit too short though.

I have done a fair bit of research on this topic, I just want to ask a few questions because it wasn't clear in the threads I read. Basic options for a R33 is to: Weld/Shim the VLSD (both making the diff 100% locked, the shims don't act the same way as they do in clutch type LSD as they space the spider gears closer together locking them up). Swap R34/S15 helical diff centre into my R33 GTST housing, question being do the half shafts have the same spline as the 5x1? As I know the s15 have 3x2 half shafts. Spend big dollars on a aftermarket locker, about $1800 at least. Is there any cheaper option, I've heard the ATS LSD diff is cheaper about $800 clutch type but can only find it for front diff on r33 gtr. Swap 350z lsd diff in - Would the 5x1 v35 diff go straight in with the conversion spacers from gktech or do you need to change out the axles? Is there any other options I am missing? I don't really want to spend $1800 on a aftermarket looker, I have a s15 helical lined up for $300 that looks to be in good condition. Not sure if r33 half shafts with fit s15 helical centre though. Is there much involved with fitting a 350z diff in with the axle shafts?

Interesting, do r34s have the fuel dampener in the tank? Did you heatshrink the solder joint going to the new pump?

You sure its mechanical locker? Going by the photos it looks like an open. OP were their clutch packs underneath the spider gears or a way to lockup the spider gears? If not you have an open diff here, you can test it by jacking up the car and getting someone to hold the other wheel. See if you can spin it. If you can and there is no resistance there you have an open centre.