Blakeo

Hi guys, Currently my R33 is running a blow thru z32 airflow meter in the cooler piping. Unfortunately this has damaged the sensor even though it is in a alloy housing. My car is running a PowerFC. Are my only options a link g4+ or Haltech Elite? Running these options are going to cost at least $3k with sensors/tuning. Turbo has a 4" inlet and tuner said is not possible to tune correctly due to the resolution or something along those lines. This is my second sensor and its getting to be a bit of a joke.

Who is selling the forged 25? Is he w.a member?

This is a good example why you don't trust everything you see on the internet obviously that Blake guy didn't know what he was talking about.

Rattle noise is either the heat shield or timing chains. The crappy trumpet noise is just how vq engines sound unfortunately. To me it sounds more like angry elephants lol.

Not to mention 4" will give the maf more resolution and make it easier to tune in general.

Jinx

http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r35-gtr-mass-air-flow-meter-upgrade-kit/ You just weld the bung onto your existing intake piping

Hi guys, I am after some advice with my 33. I have been having thoughts on selling it as I only am able to drive it every couple of weeks. I don't feel like the engine is going to last much longer with being on e85 and running 400rwhp. And if the motor goes I am looking at least ~$12K to rebuild it properly. At the moment it looks like the motor is leaking oil from the head gasket on the exhaust manifold side. There is oil higher up but it looks like majority of it has pooled near the head gasket. It needs another timing belt kit in about 20,000km but I may do it sooner than that as last time I did it was 3 years ago. Also has rear main seal leak, sump is leaking and I believe the gearbox needs to be rebuilt as it is notchy into second gear and can't always get first gear in it. I have put about $8-10K into the car in my ownership, with the turbo, exhaust, fmic, afm, coilpacks, fuel pump and multiple dyno tunes. At this point it really needs a new ECU as I'm not happy with the blow-thru setup on the car at the moment. I believe I'd need to put at least $20k into the car to get it where I want it to be and I don't think its worthwhile. What are your guys thoughts?

+100000000 I regret buying the z32 maf on my car. Tuner set it up as a blow thru setup and I ended up having to purchase a alloy housing for it to go into as it blew the plastic one up. R35 maf is great.

Easy enough to do with engine in the car. Just make sure you properly torque up the harmonic balancer as to not damage the woodruff key. Need to torque RB26 balancer to 300NM I believe but double check this. Always use a new balancer bolt. Apart from that follow the factory service manual 100%.

Temp stays the same, yes can hear fan.

I just bought a brand new one from my local Nissan dealer at a cost of $600+ I will be going back tomorrow to order a oem fan. Only reason I went gktech was to clear cooler piping but that is stupid. Thank you.

Do you mean you had a gktech then went back to factory fan blade and it fixed it?

Ok, the seats arrived on Friday. Have to say I am very impressed with the build quality being essentially a Chinese rip off. The recliner is strong and feels robust and the seat is comfortable and holds very well surprisingly. I bought the rails from the same manufacturer I linked in the OP and everything was bolt in. Can't complain for $650 shipped.

Hi guys, I can't stop my R33 from raising in temp on idle. On cruise it will sit on thermostat 78 degrees, however once idling it will very slowly climb had it up to about 83 degrees idling for about 15 minutes and if I left it longer would have kept raising. If aircon is on it will sit on 95 degree idle, which I've had up to 105 degrees and will not go down unless driving. This leads me to believe that its not getting enough air to cool the radiator at idle. Radiator has been replaced with a brand new Mishimoto to try solve the issue, also has been running a GKTech fan (have never tried oem fan as wouldn't clear the cross over pipe when installing the intercooler). I think the GKtech should be better than the oem fan anyway as apparently it pulls 30% more air. Car also has a brand new genuine clutch fan, new oem water pump and the coolant has been flushed and replaced with the correct coolant and was vacuum bled to ensure no air. I am at a lost as to why it is gaining temp, my friend suggested I may have the gktech fan on the wrong way around but when I put my hand behind the fan its pulling air towards the motor which I believe is correct because you wouldn't want the fan to push air against the rad instead you'd want it to pull it thru? Thanks.

Ended up sending it and buying them anyway. Will report back in a couple weeks how they go gtr seats too hard to find and are in bad condition.

When cranking get someone to get a big screwdriver, put it to the injectors and see if they can hear them pulsing.

It really comes down if you have money and the time. If you do, would definitely be worth while rebuilding it and doing it properly. You can get the turbo rebuilt by Hypergear, get it high flowed as its around the same money so you can push more power if you wish. I snapped a couple of the exhaust studs when I took mine off, you can just leave the exhaust manifold on if you wish but it's not a big deal. I could get vice grips on the snapped off ones and with crc they came out.

Awesome car James! You will be very happy with it I am sure.

I'm sorry to say mate, that definitely sounds like its done a head gasket. If it was water vapor coming out the exhaust on start up thats normal, but if its blowing white steam/smoke under load then its done a head gasket. Not to fear though, doing head gaskets on rbs is extremely easy just a bit time consuming. Order a OEM headgasket and get the head decked at a machine shop.

Where can I find some? Any other suggestions on good seats from the likes of Recaro or Sparco? In saying that neither of these are adr compliant are they?

Yes I have searched buyee.jp for r33 gtr seats and cannot find anything. I won't buy these, but a lot of JDM parts are not ADR Compliant some of which I have on my car like TEIN coilovers, BLITZ front mount etc etc.

Chill out mate, its a car everything can be fixed. Firstly, the clutch fan is suppose to disengage at a certain engine RPM speed. I hope you haven't overfilled the viscous clutch. I would be getting the coolant vacuum bled. Its a 100% certain way to make sure that its bled correct. Usually I will leave the car on the vacuum pump for a good half an hour before introducing coolant into the system. This is fool proof method. When you built the motor, did you pump coolant thru the block first to make sure there was no blockages? Generally you would do this when cleaning/prepping the block. Doing the vacuum bled will also confirm if it has a head gasket leak. May also be worth doing a leak down test.

I was looking at purchasing these for my R33: https://carbonetics.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=339&product_id=6813 I know they are chinese copies, but are they any good? I am looking for new seats for my r33 which hold better, I was considering R33 GTR seats but cannot find any in good condition for less then $1000 a seat. Do any brides have ADR compliance?

Seems the Plazmaman is the one to go for, yep bottom plenum is fine the workshop who dropped the engine crane on the manifold has now offered to pay for a new second hand one but I will use the money to go towards the Plazmaman FFP.