Ozzy

The place quoted in Fyshwick wanted $550 to clean up my side skirts....at first he didn't want to know me, and was quite abrupt and rude. Anyway, I'll get a fibreglass kit and do it myself thanks! I would suggest you just drive around and find a place that can do the job...there is heaps of great panel shops around Canberra. ......best of luck.

I got a GTR key from UAS and had it cut at CLASS Locksmiths in Fyshwick.....they charged me 18 bucks. When I took it in he asked me if I wanted it copied or cut to factory specs...I chose factory specs obviously ! I enquired how they cut it to factory code and it was explained that they had to decode your original key...which turned out to be just reading the number on the shaft and entering that into their cutters computer....$18 worth ????....ah well, at least it works. My key did however had a 'gutter', but maybe CLASS can do the biz for you...check them out...they're pretty good. 51 Kembla St Fyshwick.....62806611 or 1800 655 549 Let us know how ya go. Oz

I found the perfect pressure conversion chart...it covers all pressure standards.....i.e. standard meter +7 = (about) 13.5 psi, anyway it backs up all that is said in this thread. I have a laminated copy in the car for just those times when u ask...whats that in PSI (or in this case mmHg) You can find it at http://www.aquaticam.com/presschart.html

I read an article recently about a particular shift kit that you just have to ram it forward and back...somewhat like motorbike gears....the concensus in that particular article was that it wasn't really a good idea, or worthwhile with a standard synchro box, but rather for use with a dog box, that way u would not need to clutch...just ram it in gear. I'll see if I can find the article and report back the source.

I had some pecker in a silver Rex cruising beside me on liverpool road a couple of months back doing the zoooom psssh zoooom pssh thing with his BOV. He issued the challenge at the lights just before the freeway (I was going back to Canberra)....so what could I do ?????....He lost !.....Go the Skyline's !!!!

ta guys for your input....I think I'll be going for a GTR cooler. I think there is enough room up front of the beast for one !

This morning a guy at work mentioned his mate had the standard intercooler on his GTiR (normally top mount for those who don't know) mounted in the FMIC position with quite a substantial power gain. I would assume that power gains may be had with TMIC cars by doing this conversion, but my question is what about front mounting a standard Intercooler in an R33...again I assume it would run a little cooler, but is it really worthwhile ????? Has anyone tried it ??? if so, what were the results ???? My other question is....I was just going to get a seconhand standard intercooler...possibly a GTR or Supra IC for my R33 GTSt...whats the best option ???? or is it better to go aftermarket ????

Yes I know that type of yuppie....the one that buys the house near the airport and then complains...or near Garden Island in Sydney....we were banned from carrying out preventative maintenance on our nations warships by the locals...'what no-one told me there was a dockyard/airport there!'...can't please everybody. Life goes on. Ozzy

predator666.....good one....you've hit the nail right on the head....my sentiments exactly. Ozzy

Geez guys...ease off my back a bit!....all I'm saying is that we shouldn't be portraying ourselves as anarchists without regard for law and order....If you do portray that attitude on this forum...that is what people will think of us. Show some decency and respect to others and it will be returned(mostly...as u rightly say...some people are just pricks....u will never please them). Incidentally....whilst driving around in my horrible nasty import car, I am constantly being passed by speedsters and impatient drivers in 'normal' cars.....I just sit back and enjoy the experience of driving one of the nicest cars on the planet. Oh and finally JiMiH, if your car is legal...best of luck...invite said whinger to make a formal complaint...but keep your cool man. all the best Ozzy

Blind_Elk has a point. We really should be trying our damndest to get the heat off ourselves....we love our cars...we really dont need any undue (especially negative )attention from the general public in particular the POLICE. I have noticed quite a bit of disregard to others and in particular police on this forum. We need to reverse that trend, and ensure we do the right thing by ourselves. Have fun, dont give anyone any ammunition to use against us. Publicly taking the piss out of police and others on such a public forum is probably not too wise and doesn't help our cause. Go the Skylines ! Cheers Ozzy

Yeah, I've noticed mine does drone a little.....more so from inside the house...bzzzzzzzt, dunno why ? I really dont particularly give a sh#t as it is entirely legal. Compared to my old V8 Torana with twin (separate) 2.5 inch pipes with only hot dogs as mufflers....my Skyline is veeeeery quiet. I used to roll my Torana out of the driveway and down the hill and around the corner in the mornings before I started the car just so I was away from MY neighbours ! I guess the short and tall of it all is that you should really try and keep the peace within the neighbourhood....perhaps if you are running your timer, sit outside the garage or carport until thats finished so it doesn't resonate as much ?? cheers Ozzy

???Steve, I'm not sure this is for a GT-R or not, but it is R33, I shouldnt imagine it would be that much different...try it anyway...I'll still get the translation done for you anyway...standby for that. Pull a couple and find out I suppose ? Oz R33 Fusebox translation Dashboard Fusebox Left Column, top to bottom: 10A – Rear Wiper 10A – Anti-stop 10A – Starter Indicator 10A – Room lamp 10A – Stop lamp 10A – Electrics 10A – Engine Control 10A – Hazard lamp 15A – Fog lamp 10A – Turn signal 10A – Meters 10A – Electrics Right Column, top to bottom 10A – Shift lock 10A – A/T control 10A – Air conditioner 10A – Engine control 10A – Air bag 20A – Blower motor 20A – Blower motor 10A – Audio 15A – Cigarette lighter 20A – Front wiper 10A – Mirror de-fogger 20A – Rear de-fogger Note that the engine bay fuse / relay box has a fuse key printed on the inside of the cover in english.

If you post an image of the cover diagram...I can get it translated. Oz

Silverskyline.....I take it this 'little black box' is not the switch module ....is it actually located within the door ????(as opposed to the door handle)....I have had the techo's look at the switch module and its definately not that....they suspect it to be some sort of microswitch or something that only engages when the window comes to a stop, as the problem only occurs (as previously explained) when the window goes right down.

I have the same problem...if I let the window go all the way to the stop (down)....it wont restart without toggling the sh%t out of the switch. I have found that if I stop the window before it goes all the way to the bottom, it will go back up no probs. I will get one of the nations finest boffins here at work to check it out and I will get back to you all. benm...sounds like you may have scratched off the protective lacquer from the circuit board....which is no biggy, you will have to recoat after you've fixed the problem.

.....ah well, I see we have some budding chemists around. Carcinogenic or not (obviously dependant on which governments MSDS you read), I will take 51jay's advice and put it in my tank rather than drinking it or using it as a moisturiser. cheers to all Ozzy

I promise to make this my last on the subject, but the US ATSDR (agency for toxic substances and diseases registry) website states........ 'How likely is toluene to cause cancer? Studies in humans and animals generally indicate that toluene does not cause cancer. The EPA has determined that the carcinogenicity of toluene can not be classified. ' The above statement doesn't sound too convincing to me....I definately wouldn't clean my hands with it !!! :eek:

I'd definately agree with not using commercial octane booster....the crap fouls up your plugs. It has been suggested although, you keep a bottle in the boot for those times you can't get 98ron fuel (of course only the good quality stuff..if you got it in Coles or Woolies, then I reckon it would be crap...like their oils). Toluene on the other hand can be bought from petroleum companies, I think in 20 litre drums, and mixed with your petrol (ask advice on the proportion per tank)....but care must be taken as it is a CARCINOGEN.....(causes cancer....very dangerous stuff). The best advice, I think though if you're not drag racing is just use one of the commercially available 98ron fuels (BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax or Mobil Synergy 8000 (only available in NSW/SA & Vic I think))....if you read their Material Data sheets, they are pretty well on par with each other...although I prefer the BP (don't know why...just seems to go better).