niZmO_Man
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Posts posted by niZmO_Man
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The standard one's front update reminds me of R34 "series 2"
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megahellaflush, 1cm contact patch
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1. Wait until you can save up for engine conversion/off your P plates.
2. Replace engine with Barra
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Shipping from demon tweeks will be heaps less, you can get good stuff off them for decent prices.
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Thread cleaned up.
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Offset would have been stamped on the back or sticker on barrel. My guess is +35 front, and most likely +35 to +38 rear
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https://www.bing.com/search?q=gtr+registry
then search for R34 then paint codes
Alternatively, look up your VIN in the above site
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B58, problem solved
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For the amp in the boot or under a seat.
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Let me guess, 80k km never been in an accident car?
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You don't need more power while you're on your P plates, you need to get off your Ps so you need more time.
I'm sure it can be done with modifications.
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Reminds me of when I put a Pintara cluster in my R31 Skyline and it would rev to 9 with a blip of the throttle
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On 26/12/2022 at 4:03 PM, hardsteppa said:
also just saw in one of the old Best Motoring (s)exposes on the R34 Z-tune, that they go to the extent of reinforcing the strut towers with dry carbon, in addition to their Sydney Harbour bridge strutbrace, so would appear there's something worthwhile in bracing this area for handling performance.
It would make a tiny difference, if you're going all out on a race track, but it makes a much bigger difference to people's wallets when they release it for the public to purchase.
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the now dead forum hidplanet had quite a bit of USDM based information, and the G37 projectors were regarded as being pretty good. Normally you'd just throw new bulbs in, or clear lenses if you want that sharp cut off. Helps to hold the projector in your hand, so you can inspect the bowls. I wouldn't bother changing unless the bowls are burnt.
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magnet got stuck near your speedo drive
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you're on your own buddy
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On 09/12/2022 at 12:23 PM, GTSBoy said:
Ah, but that's almost a good idea. It does away with the horrendous moo noise that most CVT 4cyl engines have.
That's just the sound of efficiency
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It's been 10 years man, they removed Ghosn. Get over it
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could mount something in the grill area? or roof rack
Bulbs are about 5-7 years max, they start blue shifting and dim until failure. Bowls will be much harder to check, basically have to split the housing and take the projector apart, unless you have some fancy fibre optic camera. Not worth doing unless you notice the light barely visible.
Just grab an Osram/Philips bulb from here https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122
Cool Blue Boost is for that 6000K LED look, other wise any of the others will be better than old OEM ones. I found Cool Blue Intense to be the right amount of blue for that 'modern' look without compromising too much on usable light. Otherwise, Philips vision (standard replacement) works great (I'm still rocking those in my first HID retrofit in my R32).
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Yeah, that's race car. On the street?
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and a Camry will still chop you off the lights. Turn it into a handling machine, then later turbo or sell car and get a faster one
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400kW... budget is tight
Err, what? How can that be?-
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On 20/11/2022 at 12:20 AM, nicko370 said:
Also would be very interested if anyone has installed additional driving lights in the lower fog lamp blank outs? I've seen oem shrouds / fog lamps available and it kinda got me thinking another pair of HIDs down there would be a good thing as I do find mine (although decently bright) a little underwhelming
you want the brightest part of your low beam to be at the cut-off. You don't want light in front of your bumper because you can't see into the distance.
How old are your bulbs? Have you inspected the projector bowls? Make sure the outer plastic lenses/covers are clear, any hazing or yellowing dramatically reduces output.
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On 21/11/2022 at 10:20 AM, GTSBoy said:
That's hilarious.
quite possible that a taxi company just forgot it in shed somewhere when it was new
car hunt challenge: $5k
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
Yuck VAG.
I recently went through this. Hatches/small cars were heavily inflated. I found Accord Euro to be a good deal. CL9s easily go for less than $10k, I bought a base CU2 for $11k last year (130k km, serviced at Hani's or whatever that Honda garage near Cabra is called). My cousin picked up a half decent CL9 for $7k.
Auto or manual, (if looked after) reliable, can get the luxury with sunroof and HID headlights.
I bought my black GTS-t Type M for $6k back in the day, was immaculate and stock. R.I.P.