darrinspencer

Looking at building a new engine for my Stagea. Due to its kerb weight of approx 1750kg's the Rb30/25 sounds like a good option. I live ine Queensland and get it approved, but do not want to limit a future of the car one day to just Qld buyers It is a 8/98 model car, but rb30 block will be an 1986-88 model. It is also AWD so a bit more work is needed compared to going Rb26 which was a factory option in the 260RS, so it can or will be legal in all states. I have already bought half the rebuild parts need for Rb30, but could always resell them and buy another rb26 Not concerned about costs in swapping everything over from what I currently have Opinions wanted

Yeap horn ground. From memory I cut the old plug off and installed bullet connectors

Been buying rb30 rebuild parts Forged rods, arp mains, sump adaptor, N1 oil pump

Just paid for these Sold

Just found a video someone else filmed for their r31 Got to luv AWD drive off the line http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v215/nis...t=Produce_0.mp4

I run one. They are rated at 92db It is not too loud and does not drone. I use to run a fujistabo legarus R (waht ever they are called) at 89db and was too quite. Hardly heard it There is hardly any difference between series 1 and 2 exahust. I have had both on my car. Maybe one mount is slightly different, can't remember

Items 10 and 12 sold and paid for

Bump

I have a R32 Rb26 short block suit rebuild Standard 86mm bore, has had water in number 2. have not tried to turn it over, but can do prior to sale. Complete with, crank, rods, pistons, oil and water pump, harmonic blancer. Not sure if is short or long snout crank, unsure of year. Inspect or pick up Brisbane. May ship if needed $400

I have bought a couple of these Last one was 100% mint for less than $350 del from japan R34 uses the same momo wheel, along with a few other jap cars we do no see here Not hard to find on Yahoo auctions

Not too bad, so it should work out at approx $30k finished, but with a bad history record The real bargin is the "extra's" they will find that it has

Pacific highway heading north, opposite Dreamworld at Coomera

Any one watch this today??????

$360 delivered

Pm me with realistic offer

Possible attendance list 17-18+ cars at this stage Me Rb26stagea 66yostagea Qwk32 Raysboostin Petrodola Hanso Crusingfast Pipster11 Lilcrash Sabbai Mattye Japmatic Mym35 Stagea1 Rb30dett ? Leetom ? Greenghost ? Baysideblue ?

Genuine brand new N1 oil pump Only removed from packing to take photo's $380 express delivered in Oz Can pick up in Brisbane

Best and only method for a quick manual launch with AWD is to slip it. But you will need a clutch plate that can handle the heat build up Just got off the phone with Jim berry from Race clutch. I already have one of his clutches. Looking at upgrading to a cabonic 6 puck sprung centre and rebuild the pressure plate from the current 3000lb to 4200lb. This should be able handle the launches for now and the new engine one day Stock clutch out of GTR is around 1700lb for reference.

3500rpm and then slip it to keep the revs up. Just spoke with Jim for 20mins. Have decided to go the carbonic 6 puck with 4200lbs pressure plate Due to some of the required work already done to the pressure plate, cost should be around $650-700 including flywheel machine Clutch plate alone is $445 plus tax. Reading the feedback on the carbonic plates, they seem very street drivable. Jim belives they are a little harder to drive, but can handle the heat build up of multipul launches. Nismo = big $$

I managed to damage mine on the weekend at Willowbank drags My car is a AWD stagea, 1750kg's 328rwhp ran 13.5 Has a JB full monty 3000lbs?? pull type organic Clutch still works, but shudders and higher pedal. Did 6 launches at the track and approx 7-8000km's on the road Will call Jim today to see what we/he can do with it. I do not believe it is the clutches fault, more like abuse.

What model C34 do you have? Auto? manual? 260Rs with Brembo's? That will determine what fits When looking at Rays wheels against width and offset there is a couple of things to consider Depending what on the offset on a certain size will deteremine what the caliper clearance is as referred to by Rays as disk type A, B or C If you check out the Rays site, find the wheel you want, pick a size and compare it to the charts. If you need a "A" disk clearance, the offsets are different when compered to a B or C disk Example I run Rays's GT-C's Face 2 in a 19x9.5 +12, manual rear end. Check the charts and you will see they are a "B" disk with 86mm outer rim (dish) Only just clear (1-2mm) r34 GTT 310mm dia brakes. If I went to 19x9.5 +11, only 1mm different in offset, but they are a A disk (fit over brembo's) but with a 73mm out rim (so less dish) Hope this helps. http://www.rays-msc.com/wheels/index.cgi?d=19 http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/2009/products/...mp;for=domestic

A couple more pic's on the strip Supprised how much rear squat it gets on launch.

Yeah single organic sprung centre, suppose to be good for 300rwkw. Pretty to drive on the street, esp since I do 80km a day going to work It is built by Race Clutch (Jim Berry) very well regarded in OZ Will have to find a streetable twin plate maybe Have an Rb30 in the planning.

Thanks for the comments. I heard yesterday HPI want to shoot it for the mag. Best time was 13.5 before clutch started to spit it

Same tune, hence the 328hp, not the 400rwhp it is capable off. The launch is had to get right. the weight of the car, with AWD grip puts alot of load on the clutch as I found out. Not enough revs and it bogs down, too much stinks like hell. Had to slip it off the line at around 3-3500 rpm.