WR33KD
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Posts posted by WR33KD
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Have you every pulled a diff apart?
I would so no don’t and that diff won’t fit as it’s 5x1 and your 3x2
Also yours is front abs and that other one is rear abs
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So your diff is the top pics and the new one you wish to buy is the bottom pics??
Yeah it should go straight in no problems.
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On 13/04/2020 at 1:44 AM, MoMnDadGTR said:
3.5" definitely be fine BUT if it can be squeezed in there I would fight to have a 4" straight through on that beast! keeps that turbs tight n cool like nuns vageeeeeeeen. could ball right out and do a custom titanium or a nice 304 ss custom. aes, vibrant make some nice 4" inlet mufflers.
The research I have done around exhausts and sizing puts me in the 3.5 rather than 4. If I was to run a 4 it would be very droney around town and the clearance I talked about would make it scrape.
Couple cars I no moved from a 3 to a 3.5 and gained 40hp just from the size change. I don’t have any pics of the exhaust I have now but if you could see it you would laugh it’s 4 different exhaust made into one, I didn’t really care that much as you couldn’t see it but when we rebuilt the subframe I cleaned everything and painted it all nice and the one price driveshaft that’s sits there against the exhaust looked rude.
The new one will be SS, from turbo to tip with the waste gate running along side with a resonator and tip just to make sure it’s not over the top loud
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10 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
Yep 4in exhaust will be good - but I believe you can get E85 at Hampton Downs (also at a service station in Hamilton) and dual fuel means you can daily it on 98.
4in is to big and with the way my waste gate will be run it wouldn’t fit, Melville gull dropped e85 as it wasn’t selling.
I’m happy as with pump gas, be interesting to see what power if would make on e85. It only has 1000cc injectors at the moment but will move up to 1650 or even 2200 but I would say my turbo would run out of puff first -
30 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:
What kind of ECU have you got? Dual fuel with E85 will get you close to where you want!
Just a link g4, nah don’t wanna run e85 anymore like to keep it on pump so I can take it to any track or town without having to cart a small trailer behind me.
Stu no longer works at st hitec but Steve and I have been talking about going to a 14 or 16cm rear housing and that will free up a lot, my old exhaust was only 3’, so to push 400kw out of it was good but moving to a 3.5 stainless should free up some room to breath -
So after that work was done and then the time had come to put it on the road 100% legal, it’s not as hard as what people over here say you just have to have a clear head when you dropped it off to be checked and not cry when you get 3 pages back haha
most of the list was to do with the rear end so we got a new non hicas subframe and loaded it up with the nismo diff and hard race items
we also put hard race arms up front as well as a set of d2 adjustable suppression to get the car dialed in for track use.
Now that the car passed it cert and has a real wof and we where ready to enter NATs didn’t do anything crazy cool just wanted to get the car out there and show people
So with NATs it’s a 3 day event where day one is the show and shine, day 2 was drags and the third day was track.
This car has also only seen a trailer 5 or 6 times in its life, I drive to the track and drive home, it’s a beast and takes a beating and never seems to surprise me now how hard I can drive it and it just takes it and doesn’t complain.
So with the drags I don’t change a thing not even tyre pressure when I race and the bear I did was a 12.3 at 129mph. I think that’s pretty good nothing crazy but for me it’s good. We did check the tyre pressure after the day and they where up around the 38psi so I will be looking in to some Hoosiers later on but for now it’s maybe a little more power time.
So a week before all this Covid-19 stuff happens the car was dropped off to get a full exhaust done at Sinco customs and then back off to the dyno with some other mods to see how close I can get to 500rwkw on pump gas, so until this stuff winds down there is nothing I can do as I don’t even have the car at my house.
i hope you enjoyed and like I said this build will not end
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Good morning all, thought I might aswell our up a build as this is one that will most likely never end.
I brought the car on the ev of my 28th birthday, have always wanted another 33 and it must have been luck that it came up at the time it did and the bloke I got it off even dropped it off at my house for me, so I was super happy that I didn’t have to lift my feet for it to turn up.
This is kinda how I got it when it turned up.
nothing over the top 70% stock apart from a holset hx35 (Frankenstein) FFP and some 1000cc injectors. Car was putting out around the 260rwkw on a stock motor. Also was running some JET 6s 9 on the front and 10s on the rear. The gtr wing was a glass copy and was really cracked where it mounted to the car and was one of the first things on the list to be gone with.
Within the first 12 months of owning the car it was driven to the limits got a re tune and pushed out 310rwkws on 18psi and hit the track more times than I can remember.
After my first couple track days the street tyres that where on it couldn’t hold up to my driving and where soon binned for some NITTO nt05s, 225 on the front and 245s on the back and my god the grip went through the roof and has to be one of the best upgrades I have done so far. The jump from street tyres to a semi slick is second to none.
Fast forward about 6 months the power just wasn’t doing it for me so we started researching a engine builder and it happens to be a guy that took me for a spin is his 1350hp r35( that he broke with me) that car was crazy it holds a lot of track records here in nz for the gt3 class. So after that was set I tried my hardest to blow the motor at and event at Hampton downs called chrome, but it just didn’t want to pop, so off to ST Hitec the car went. Having talked to Ian and Stu for weeks about what I wanted and what I wanted to use the car for we kinda had a plan but when building a car plans don’t always go plan.
Do after letting Stu and the boys work there magic we came out the off side broke and with 444rwkws of angry RB goodness
So now with and engine that is almost built proof I had over looked so many things, having a good motor doesn’t mean anything if you can get it down and that showed on my first drive from Auckland to Cambridge, with the 245s on the back didn’t hold any of the power and your brake out at anything over half throttle so while it was cool having almost 600hp it was very useable, so the next and biggest step started.
We hand been using a panel beater down the road for a couple years now fixing this and that so I popped down with the car and explained to him what I wanted and how should we do it and he jumped at the job and told me you buy it and I’ll make it work. So that was me, on the internet buying anything I liked and what I needed to make this work.
So this is how the car went to him looking. Nothing crazy apart from a carbon boot from the one and only XTR33M the purple wide body GTR that the man Ian built.
So with the parts I had brought being, wide front guards, carbon bonnet, rear flares and 400r front and rear bumpers I was off.
So it was taking shape and I couldn’t wait to have it back. While all his was happening I was on the hunt for a new gearbox and diff set up. I had killed 4lsds and 3 boxes and I was just wasting money so I was off on another mission. A nismo 2way 4.081 was found and rebuilt and a ppg 5speed gtr gearset was found.
i had a spare 25det gearbox so we stripped both and put the 26 inside the 25 and used a mates car to test it all out. Now this is straight forward if you know what your doing but the one thing I didn’t know that the selector fork in the 26 is different to the 25 and made 1st and 2nd where 5th and reverse are. On the phone to ppg and had one of the plane that afternoon to fix the problem.
So gearbox and diff where all sorted and new wheels turned up just in time
Enkei PF01s at 18x9.5 15p on all 4 tyres are NITTO nt05 245 front and Achilles 123s 265 rear.
So this is how the car sits after is first bath back home. I still can’t get over how it looks and the smile is gives me every time I see him (yes WR33KD is a boy) it looks better than what I had in my mind.
so once it was back we installed the parts I had ready
this was my first drive is sounds amazing and I little scary as every time to change gear is sounds like you broke it again.
so after all this work was done it was time to enjoy it for awhile
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You can put in a 25 box you just need to change the selector arm.
how bad is the dog?
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I thought that r32 and r33 and s14 had very similar subframes but they can change the track a little.
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And lot of people fudge dyno readings so they get a higher read out
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You need to adjust your dyno read out or are these super low torque?
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Quick question, why do this to a spec r and not a spec s
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On 25/10/2019 at 11:33 PM, bcozican said:
What rev limit, gearbox and diff ratio? Whats 5th top speed?
Ive got 214 max in 4th at 8000 rpm with a ppg rb25 box (still 1:1) 4th and 4.11 diff... have been looking into diff ratios
Diff is a 4.081 and gearbox is a 26 dogbox and have never needed to use 5th as there isn’t a track here. Rev would have been up around the 8500rpm as rev limit is set to 8900rpm
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Couple weekends ago at the track I got 230kph in 4th gear, needed a longer straight to click 5th
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Is the bolt in cage FIA approved?
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Why would I want to put 91 in it. To me that’s just dump and silly to do so.
If it’s tuned to run something that’s what you run.
Why don’t I just turn the boost up and lean it out-
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I’m running 600whp on 98 and it’s fine, it all comes down to the final details of the tune and who builds the engine, the guys that built mine built some of the most bad ass RBs in nz. Any thing is possible with time and money.
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Your gearbox will last as long as you drive it nice, as for the diff option it’s the crown and pinion gears that let you down. You can cryo treat them and shadow coat them.
Does the UK have major car builders? -
Has any one done what he is wanting to do?
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Did you install the motor? If so how do you link the looms together?
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I’m running a full dogbox in my r33 1-5 straight cut and I don’t see why people say you can’t drive them on the street, it’s fine just a little loud. Takes a little bit to get used to but I have no problems driving it to the super market or picking the kids up. One huge advantage having a straight cut box is you don’t need to use the clutch to shift up at any rev, makes racing of any kind that much better. Have to add that the guys at PPG are always free to talk if you have any problems or wish to no anything and if something was to brake there only a stone throw away to get a new part
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Mines a JDM one this maybe password jdm, only $40 and bolts up nice as and also easy to remove -
There are a couple drift cars in nz that are running 350kw with a 20det gearbox.
Not sure why there lasting but seems to be abit of a hit or miss with them -
Couple pics from the weekend, now the exterior is done time for “More power baby”-
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r34 swap sedan diff
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
A bet could be one out of a Silvia