joshuaho96
-
Posts
2,128 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by joshuaho96
-
-
1 minute ago, Hexi said:
Yeah I get the appeal of trying to fix up a broken car and seeing it run once again. Honestly might follow that advice since I know someone who has a broken down m328i and isn't bothered to fix it lol. Its probably a good idea to get a slighter newer car such as like a 400r since my parents are worried ill crash and die lmao (I probably won't but hey I understand why)
The other reason why I say this is because if you lose the motivation to mess with this stuff, at least if you can get the car back together and fixed up better than it came to you usually you can sell it for more than you paid. Skylines in that regard it's pretty rare for anyone to actually come out ahead.
-
16 hours ago, Hexi said:
Ohhh I see lol
To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that.
Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far.Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
My recommendation is start with maintenance. Find a ~15 year old car that is cheap for a reason and fix it up. For example, in my area F30 328i with N20/N26 are dirt cheap because everyone knows that the timing chain loves to stretch and take out the cylinder head around 80k miles. Buy one, do all the maintenance on it, if you're still motivated after that an N20/N26 can be easily modified for more power.
-
14 hours ago, MBS206 said:
The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution.
Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down.
There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around.At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick.
So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.It's sodium citrate, I misspoke earlier. It's a citrate buffer solution. And yes, depending on how thin the metal in the tank is this may or may not be a wise decision but if it's just mild rust it should clean off and it should be fine.
-
1
-
-
7 hours ago, GabsReDeal said:
I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop.
1kg Citric Acid for €8.50
500g Baking Soda for €2.50
I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap.
In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes.
I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, MBS206 said:
Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes).
Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively.
Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later.
So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection.
That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement.
The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin.
Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump.
Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...
The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:
-
1
-
-
17 hours ago, GabsReDeal said:
Thanks a lot for this, it does look promising. I imagine I'm going to need a lot of the solution for the tank to get fully clean (or I guess I could rotate it around especially since it does not lose its effectivity). I will see if I can get the ingredients to try this out with the hanger first.
Yes, it will take a fair amount of solution but the sodium citrate + citric acid + detergent is cheap stuff. Use laundry detergent instead of dish soap if you want to reduce the bubbles, also you could just buy sodium citrate and add some citric acid to the mix until you get to a weakly acidic solution if you don't feel like dealing with all the bubbling generated by adding everything together. For a fuel tank you need quite a lot of distilled water but it's probably worth the effort.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, GabsReDeal said:
I removed the fuel pump to take a look at the tank. The sender unit is very rusty.
Took a look at the tank and it is also quite rusty.
Right at the base of where the fuel pump sits, there's a buildup of what seems to be rust particles.
I did find new OEM fuel tank (17202-01U01) and sender unit (25060-01U00) from amayama which would set me back around €900 including shipping and customs. I most likely would need a new fuel pump as well.
I'm going to be honest, I have been driving for around 6 years now and this is the only mechanic I went to apart for once (Last year I took my Porsche 924 to a guy who specializes on them). I've got a good relationship with him and he's always there to assist, even coming over to my garage at times for my convenience since the car was not starting. I believe he's got over 20 years of experience, but this is not the first time he let me a bit down on some basic diagnosing. I do not want to switch over to someone else, but I'd be lying if I said that it did not cross my mind.
Take the fuel pump out of the hanger, purge the fuel tank of gasoline, try cleaning it with a soaking of this sodium acetate and dish soap solution. If there's no rust holes this should get the tank and hanger clean.
-
1
-
-
On 22/06/2025 at 3:50 PM, MidnightR32 said:
Sorry if it wasn't clear, I retested right after getting home and the car was still hot.
Not only should you be testing compression with a strong battery, you should be putting a charger on it. These cars have pretty small batteries and it's possible to discharge them enough that by the last cylinder the starter isn't turning as fast.
-
16 hours ago, yummy_o said:
I managed to get a video of the car running. Maybe the car is just idling normally? I showed this to one of my mates and they thought it was normal idle. I thought it was a small/slight cam(?) or something else. What do you guys think?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aAcmgWzjstK-AqQgph2TTL2RPQWgTbbf/view?usp=sharing
Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
-
On 24/06/2025 at 8:35 PM, GTSBoy said:
It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc.
**And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!
Would the new Haltech Nexus plug-ins work for this? Or are they actually checking under the kick panel?
-
On 24/06/2025 at 12:56 PM, steven7270 said:
if the MAF's were replaced should the car just turn on and get rid of the limp mode or does the car need to be ran for a while or reset before limp mode is gone?
As soon as the MAFs are replaced with ones that work properly, if the harness isn't ruined it should run perfectly immediately.
-
On 05/06/2025 at 1:40 AM, RA708 said:
I have a terrible idea to twin charge a BNR34. Or an r35. So compression ratios and how they work as well as what certain measurements do for an engine (bore that sorta stuff). I will probably upgrade what ever engine it is with forged rods and pistons and some other strength upgrades.
Do a degree in mechanical engineering specializing in combustion systems and materials. Learn how to actually wrench on things that don't require 70k+ USD buy-in while you're at it. You also want to learn to weld and machine. If you still want to do this then you'll nominally have the knowledge to actually do what you're thinking of doing. Whether you still want to do any of that once you've actually gone through that process is anybody's guess.
Personally I cannot imagine anything more frustrating than trying to package a supercharger under the hood of any of these cars when the turbos are already fighting for every last inch.-
1
-
-
Just now, Nydt said:
I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.
I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.
Thanks you.
Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
-
On 31/05/2025 at 6:22 PM, isf said:
The odometer does go up when driving.
Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?
Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair..
Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol
Probably speedometer itself if the odometer is ticking. If the needle is stuck from a bit of grease or something that can cause it to stay at 0. Or a cracked solder joint in the speedometer can do it too.
-
7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc.
-
8 hours ago, Kaptain said:
Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.
If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
Sounds like the rack seals blew.
-
12 minutes ago, Lithium said:
Different folks for different folks I guess - for me, the 6MT > ZF8 claim is wild. If I had a manual Skyline I'd be saving up fix that with a ZF8. I went for a M135i, has the N55 which resolves a lot of the issues the N54 has, it already has the ZF8, is barely heavier than an R34 GTt, full boost before 2000rpm while also being real-word-faster than my old 280kw @ hubs R33 GTS25t and doing absolutely everything better. There's nothing I'd change on it to be more like my old Skyline, tbh... it doesn't sound the same but it's got it's own awesome sound - definitely not worse.
To be fair I can't argue with most of those points. I guess i was pointing it out as a comparison for a Skyline GTR and it's much closer all around there, like the weight difference between an M240i and an R34 GT-R isn't that much etc. As above, I ended up getting an M135i which is in the 1400kg range - the M140 and M240is that you can get up till 2018 are B58, ZF8, RWD and in the 1400kg range which is a bit of fun... but doesn't fit the tyre etc of the Supra. They are a run drive, though- maybe no an A90 Supra but a huge upgrade over a Skyline "sporty chassis" wise.
ZF8 is faster, wider ratio spread, better in every way. I do not dispute this. But I have brain damage and I want the feeling of shifting gears. To me the extra work is fun, but I daily an automatic and in the US like 90+% of cars are automatic so a manual transmission is an "exotic" experience. If I want an automatic I've driven an F80 M3 with DCT more than a few times and it's incredibly capable but it's emotionally vacant to me.
-
16 hours ago, Lithium said:
M240i xDrive is the way. 3litre straight 6 coupe w/single turbo, ZF8, Rear biased 4WD. It's more Skyline GT-R than the R35 by miles.
The trouble for me is the automatic takes away so much from it. And the E92 has hydraulic power steering. Even after putting in an LSD you're looking at re-mapping the xDrive to be more like a Skyline which is just a lot of effort for something that is supposed to be easier and cheaper. I consider the E92 335i 6MT to basically be the obviously superior car to something like an R34 GTT. Half the price out here, the N54 makes so much more power so easily, is a far more refined car, etc. You do have to deal with the nightmare of the N54's foibles vs the B58 which is comparatively miles better and if a turbo does fail it's only one of them vs two and a lot less pipe spaghetti.
996 or 997 Turbo has the AWD system mapped like a Skyline. Basically always RWD unless engaging the front axle makes sense. A coworker let me drive his 997.2 Turbo 6MT and it's absolutely tremendous. I don't think I'd want more power in a street car. -
31 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we?
I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow.
Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again.
Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
-
On 17/05/2025 at 11:21 PM, GTSBoy said:
Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
-
5 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:
these are not the same
They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
-
15 hours ago, DatsunBanana said:
Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight.
Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
If you can get heat to it somehow that and penetrating oil will do wonders. Induction bolt heater, whatever it is.
-
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Although the best way will be to put in an LS7. Why anyone would mess with an RB when they live in the country where the LS7 was built is a mystery that can never be solved.
I frequently tell people interested in buying a GTR to either pick a 996 Turbo or E92 335i 6MT. Either one is close enough to being what you wanted from a GTR while being much, much cheaper. I just have brain damage and had to have one anyways.
-
6 hours ago, GabsReDeal said:
Swapped the injectors around and the misfire followed.
I went ahead and ordered the Deatschwerks 550cc injectors and am currently waiting for them to be ship and arrive.
In the meantime, I've had my Nistune soldered to the ECU. Tested it, and and tried it out with the software. Everything should be prepared for when the injectors arrive.
I really hope those injectors work for you. I have recently heard from another person with an RB20DET about how they cannot get their car to idle at all and they are tearing their hair out. I never really knew what the issue was but to me it had to be either the ECU or fuel injector. Suddenly on the wideband after sitting in closed loop idle for a bit it would lean out and stall.
-
1
-
Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Posted
E10 is pretty tightly regulated in percentage. Too much and engines can't adapt. Every incentive is against them to have too little ethanol though. The more ethanol the higher the octane.