joshuaho96
-
Posts
1,731 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by joshuaho96
-
-
9 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
I recall you're going to launch the OEM ECU into the bin in another post, unpopular opinion but throw the AAC, IACV, cable throttle & pedal all into the bin and convert to DBW e-throttle & pedal.
For quick install (minimum fab work) these guys have a great bit of kit:
https://outsidergarage.com/products/nissan-rb25-oem-dbw-conversion-kit
Hit up @outsidergarage for more details.
(I'm not affiliated nor do I use them)
Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once.
-
11 hours ago, JC71 said:
I replaced the entire IACV assembly with new unit from Nissan, idle acts the exact same, starts and runs with idle rock solid at 900, as soon as I plug in the solenoid from the new IACV the idle races up to 1400, even with idle adjustment on side back of intake manifold maxed out for lowest idle still way too high around 1200. Again if I unplug the IACV, turn idle screw to about half and it runs fine at around 900. thinking about just leaving it unplugged, do not ever plan to drive it when its cold, and always stored in climate control garage, just sucks to spend 500 dollars and have no change, could have left the original at this point. any other thoughts as to what it could be? maybe not even worth pursuing? that is if cold start idle aid was the only reason for Nissan to have this part anyway. tried AC and other loads and it never seemed to push idle below stall.
You definitely have a big problem if with the adjustment screw closed up you're idling at 1200 rpm. Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? No throttle shaft seal leaks? Nobody has messed with the throttle body set screws? I would love to see what Consult reports when your engine is idling that high.
-
10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.
HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.
-
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
A is the HICAS CU. As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?
Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else.
Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.
I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle.
@D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars:
You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.
-
8 hours ago, D.phantom said:
So I’m having issues with my power steering. the obvious heavy and light and comes on and off randomly now it’s constantly heavy. I’ve read through forums regarding this issue and what I’ve gather is that it’s referring to hicas deletion. That’s the problem mine didn’t come with hicas.
I’ve rebuilt the steering rack, pump, changed the bent hardline on the rack and taken out the solenoid to clean and loosen up the actuator, applied 12v to get it moving. Roughly checked the loom to see if there’s any damage to the loom and nothing.
Now I’m checking the wiring. I’ve tested the wiring to the solenoid and it’s fluctuating between 0.07v to 0.03v. Does anyone know what it’s supposed to be reading? 5v?
Anyone one know how this all works? Is there a fuse in between? What else is it connected to? How does it connect to the speed sensor? A resistor fried in the ecu? Please help. It’s been years
Thanks in advance
I don't have the full R32 factory service manual so I don't really know how to help you here but there is an EPS control module that modulates the EPS solenoid, marked C or 28500 in this diagram.
The R32 GTR service manual floating around mentions it should be about 4.4-6.6V between the diagnostic connector and solenoid valve at 0 kph, then 1.5-2.2V at 60 mph, it also has the no HICAS equipped variant connector mentioned:
-
On 4/18/2024 at 11:47 PM, shortyboy said:
I just did the R35 coil pack conversion with Hitachi coils. Now I'm getting TCS, slip and cel lights on. Car runs great and better than before on factory coil packs. Has anyone else ran into this issue?
Pull the codes. I have seen a code 21 for primary ignition circuit fault on these conversions for some reason, I'm not sure exactly how the ECU decides this either.
-
On 5/1/2024 at 5:04 PM, Chris_Guthrie said:
Just got back from a quick test and I'm really thinking that maybe the fuel line is sucking air in. I noticed when I removed the fuel pressure tester the hose on the fuel filter was easily spin-able. When it was twisting I noticed a slight change in the engine rhythm. Took it out to see and did fine again without boost and for the most part did fine in boost until I got a big hiccup about half throttle going up a hill. Going to investigate that further when I get more time. Probably just replace the fuel filter and the hose and see if there is any changes. Was able to go about 10m away today with the car feeling fine, actually felt a little stronger im guessing thats the splitfire coils (still an intermittent misfire at idle).
That's good to know at least. Guess I can rule out the pump. Also thinking could be bad fuel though I filled up my bike (11' R1) at the same place the other day with the same 93 octane and got a crazy misfire that I never had on that before too.
If your working theory is that air is getting into the fuel hose and those air bubbles are causing lean-outs it would run horribly at first or most likely no-start until the air is purged.
Also, if your fuel hose isn't sealing too well more likely it will manifest as a fuel leak, not air leaking into the system. I would be suspect of the gas station potentially having dirt intrusion in their underground tanks if you think it's the fuel filter causing a fuel pressure drop that causes lean-out. Fuel pressure has to be measured under load or you have to take a delta measurement at different points in the circuit if the idea of getting the car to a dyno or running a hose all the way from under the hood into the cabin and having one person check fuel pressure while the other drives is unpleasant. -
6 hours ago, GoHashiriya said:
Speaking with Matt now, seems to be a more cost effective solution to just buy new from Matt - approx 300 EUR - then my local electronics store just told me EUR 100 to solder it in and I guess I'm good to go 600kph.
Yeah, if he has one lying around you could send yours in on an exchange basis.
-
20 minutes ago, GoHashiriya said:
Sorry, I should be clear, buying the software license is not a problem. The problem is my other source of information has told me that depending on the Nistune feature pack version, I may not be able to flash a base map myself and *may* require a feature pack update at Nistune. Does this sound accurate?
Contact Matt at Nistune. If the wiring on the ECU has been messed with in order to get certain outputs like launch control, flex fuel, and boost control you might need to change it back to make it work normally again.
-
8 hours ago, GoHashiriya said:
TBH, I’ve hit a bit of a dead end with this.
The Nistune’d ECU for sale is mapped for a big turbo, which is completely different to my stock motor. My friend (Nistune user) tells me I’ll need to get a new base map on it (no shit), which could - depending on the age of the Nistune board - mean sending it off to Nistune themselves to get it done. Price for this ECU is €355. Then I’ve still gotta buy a license.
Sending my ECU for installation at Nistune costs about €400 (~AUD 700) including a license. So, plus shipping will be about another €200/AUD 350 (EMS), total around €600. I imagine downtime around a month. This seems to be the smartest option. Or have a crack at the soldering myself - I’m not that cack-handed.
At this point I’m at Power FC money - does it work with an AT harness.. I can’t remember. Yes, PFC is not as good as the Nistune, but this option requires zero downtime.
Then I’m thinking f**k it, this is a pain in the ass, I just wanna go rag it on the track; so SLD and then Nistune over winter… I figure I can do some reconstructive surgery on the harness with the some nice little crimps and heat shrink and it’ll look as good as Michael Jackson in his final form.
If you don't have a friend with a Nistune license just buy one. Then you can flash whatever ROM dump you want. The Nistune ROM pack has the actual stock maps for literally every ER34 ECU as far as I can tell, both AT and MT.
-
1
-
-
6 hours ago, GoHashiriya said:
That’s the one. Yeah, the seller has confirmed the base ECU is from a manual car.
To be honest, I’m only worried about the TCS light being illuminated due to registration here in NL - unsure on rules. Back in Japan, we weren’t allowed to have any permalit error-related lights (or so my shaken guy said).
Looks like this Nistune is the way to go then, appreciate it GTSBoy, and the others that chimed in.
If the TCS light is controlled by the ECU just patch it with Nistune to turn it off. I personally hate wiring in stuff like the SLD because it requires cutting into the factory harness when all you really need to do is patch a byte or two in the ROM.
Just to wire in my dash cam and some other future expansion I've bought a sealed bus bar so I don't have to run multiple fuse taps for accessories that want +12V, ignition signal, and ground. Clean wiring goes such a long way to preventing annoyances when debugging all this crap. -
Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
-
1
-
-
On 4/24/2024 at 2:40 PM, Chris_Guthrie said:
Well considering I have the exact same problem with that as the original one I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. I would imagine that this being such an uncommon problem the possibility of getting a new ignitor that is bad in the same way as the old one has to be very slim. I'll definitely pull everything apart this weekend and check the turbo out. Got quite a bit of things to check out Saturday like fuel pressure and the pcv so I'll report back once I do that.
Thanks everyone for all the replies this is all really helpful
Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
-
I personally recommend not messing with factory suspension until you can clearly identify something wrong. For example I think the R33 might need some way to adjust front camber because I feathered the edges of the tires much more than the center of the tread doing some figure 8s and slalom.
-
23 hours ago, Predator1 said:
Def happens. Happened to mine too. Have pics to prove. Super picky, I noticed the OP slowly dropping.
I can believe it if you're getting air into the pickup. Cavitation is tremendously destructive for pumps.
-
27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
I'm not the sort of person to click on a random link to something called files.fm/nrn9something something somehting
I took the liberty of downloading the pictures:
-
1
-
-
WTF is that engine bay. They didn't even mask off the brake master cylinder or reservoir before going at it?!
-
5 hours ago, Butters said:
found this on the forum , suggests I am in the range
-----------------------------
From the segmented (potentially incorrect) information I've found that;
Early R32: RB26000XXXX to RB26002XXXX
Mid R32: RB26003XXXX (V-Spec I RB26-03XXXXX - Reference Classic Register)
Late R32: RB26004XXXX (V-Spec II RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX - Reference Classic Register)
Early R33: RB26005XXXX
Mid R33: RB26006XXXX (as per the engine in this R32 V-Spec II, which is what I'm concerned about from legitimacy perspective)
Late R33: RB26007XXXX
Early R34 (2000+): RB26008XXXX
----------------------
I think you pretty much nailed it.
-
1
-
-
Do you have a crank trigger or are you still running the factory CAS?
-
2
-
-
On 4/9/2024 at 10:21 PM, Desean Strickland said:
Cast pistons have a lot higher silicone content, 2618 has less than 1% silicone content and 4032 forged is somewhere in between. You wouldn’t use 4032 in a 1000hp engine since the extra silicone makes it more brittle but for my application, wanting a strong piston that will run close to factory piston to wall clearance running probably under 20psi boost it’s perfect.
and the need to go forged is more to do with needing a 86.5mm or 87mm piston since I probably won’t be able to keep the stock 86mm bore size. And even if I could it probably wouldn’t be a great idea to put 30 year old scored stock pistons back in it.
as for going with a 25/30, it gives a lot more low end torque and power, hits full boost about 1-2k rpms earlier and should make a lot better street car than a 25det would, the downside being it won’t rev as high which dosnt really matter for a street car.
I think you're thinking of silicon, not silicone. Silicone is a polymer of siloxane which is Si-O-Si with some hydrocarbons hanging off of the silicon.
-
I would not trust whatever J Replace ignitor you bought personally, just searching them up on Zilvia their parts are basically complete shot in the dark alibaba crap: https://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=6422907&postcount=15
This is a hard lesson to learn with these cars. Almost always these aftermarket parts are a false economy. I bet the power transistors are not able to keep up once they get hot enough which is not helping with your misfires. At least with the RB26 the OEM ignitor + Hitachi coils are so expensive now that it's not even worth it to bother with OEM much of the time, R35 coilpack conversions are the same price initially and then any replacement afterwards ends up cheaper because there is no separate ignitor, if one coil fails you replace that coil only.
If there is oil in the intake and the PCV is not venting to the intake then pull apart the intake and verify the turbo is ok. Do not drive the car if the turbo has shaft play. It will shed metal and debris into the rest of the engine and make things go from bad to worse. -
14 hours ago, Butters said:
I've read that before, really good article.
However my ~900hp+ at flywheel, means it can be done.
Also have tested it with one pump on only, does what you'd expect, near 700's flywheel.
No disagreement that i will have horrible pressure drop compared to what it would be on a bigger lines.
I can also overwhelm the regulator / return line at low HP consumption with both on, but I don't do that, so no issue
So horribly inefficient but it works really well for the 10 seconds or so the second pump is on.
I'm actually really impressed that you don't pop a pressure relief valve or find some other weak link in the system. This puts me at ease though, I want to run 5 bar differential at the injectors and flow enough for maybe 500 crank horsepower tops on E85. I'm really hoping that a single Fuelab 496 series pump will work for this.
-
8 hours ago, TheOrangeSkittle said:
I tested them all a couple times, haven't tested it warm or wet though. The only seemingly really weird thing was the cylinders plug closest to the dash was pitch black nearly. Doesn't smoke out of the exhaust or anything.
Also sorry everyone for the very late response. Got busy with work and all and didn't get around to fooling with the car for awhile.
But an update! I figured out the cause of the lean condition, my intercooler had at some point exploded or something. It's clearly separated in a spot with black oily buildup around the leak, and multiple leaks in various vacuum lines. I've replaced it and the vacuum lines, and gotten new clamps and there are 0 leaks now after doing a couple smoke tests.
The car now runs significantly better and the exhaust doesn't overheat anymore. I still have the main problem though where the engine feels like I'm lugging it around sub 3500rpm in any gear besides 1st, 2nd It's less noticeable but 3rd anything under 3.5k and I need to downshift or the engine is clearly struggling when trying to accelerate at all, 4th is the exact same, sub 3.5k engine won't accelerate and its hard to bring it back up to speed, 5th gear doesn't feel like the car is going to straight up fall apart now but it still can't pull 5th. It slowly loses speed and rpm and ANY gas I give I can feel the shakes from the engine and it slowly dying. If I ever so lightly give it gas it will slowly and nicely decel till around 2k rpm instead of lugging. But it cannot accelerate at all or maintain speed.
If I go from first gear at 5 or 6krpm and then shift to second it also feels like it's struggling to make power till above 3krpm if trying to accelerate but I can cruise around parking lots at around 1-2krpm just fine in 2nd. It's just when accelerating hard it and changing gear you really notice it die down. But even if you shift at way lower rpms it does the same thing till somewhere above 3k.
As far as I'm aware it's got r32 gtr transmission gear ratios with gts4 diffs.
The tire size is 205/55r16 91h
Above 3500rpm the car pulls and runs and drives quite normally and the power from engine sounds and feels very smooth. It's perfectly driveable at above 3.5krpm but I drive on the highway alot for work and it gets really bad gas mileage in 4th at 4.4krpm. Not that I'm looking for great gas mileage with such a car, just I'm sure being at around 3krpm would be significantly better for it.
Have appreciated all your guys help. I do understand the engine may just be f**ked from running with a boost leak though.
One final thing I'd like to add is I'm only shifting so high in the rpm range is because if I don't I will feel the engine lugging bad with 0 power in lower rpms, pretty much anytime off boost trying to accelerate it feels really bad. Also when I say 3500 rpm I don't mean exactly. Just around there.
Most likely your engine is toast, but also the R32 GTR has different ratios than the GTS4. In 5th it's basically the same, it's mostly 1st through 3rd that change. Stop trying to do WOT pulls before you make the engine entirely unsalvageable. Do a leakdown test and/or borescope the cylinders first. And a boost leak can overspeed a turbo. Make sure the turbo actually functions as intended.
-
21 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
There’s a fuel tank in the way in a 32
AFAIK didn't some of the race variants of the 32s do this relocation? Just relocate the fuel tank into the trunk.
98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.