joshuaho96

Sell it as rare Impul ECU old logo, an American will snap it up for extra JDM tyte points at the next cars and coffee.

The price of the R34 and many other generally desirable cars has gone through the roof because of economic policies from the pandemic. I remember when I was looking for a car R34 GT-Rs were still 70-80k USD. A ton of money for what it was, but hey maybe not a big deal if you had to have an R34 for whatever reason. The jump to 250k+ USD has been very recent and I believe it is driven by the PPP (Paycheck Protection Program) loans that the government handed out with very little vetting. Business owners fired workers en masse and then applied for these loans as if they hadn't. Then they took the money and bought cars like the R34s. All that money chasing very few R34s means a huge demand shock.

Do you have any evap codes? If a vent valve is jammed from overfilling in the past it can cause these issues. Otherwise my experience is that most cars if you angle the nozzle closer to being perpendicular to the ground a lot of cars tend to experience less fuel frothing/obstruction that can prematurely trip the sensor. The 996 is one of those cars where the nozzle has to go in upside down.

If the timing check shows timing bouncing all over the place despite commanding a fixed value in the ECU then the most likely explanation is either the CAS drive pin on the cam has worn, the CAS drive gear has worn, or both. I suspect a number of the more severe cases of timing scatter are actually due to this issue.

Adding fluid to the reservoir shouldn't require bleeding. The rear bleed valve seems to be next to the nitrogen canister if you can locate that:

Right, but those solutions are usually packaged and designed to work nicely. For a street car that ultimately isn't about outright performance doing all the usual wet sump tricks is probably good enough. Maybe the Hi Octane kit is the way to go there but it's hard for me to say whether it's really "no compromises" for a street car when there's no real photos for how it's installed. The mention of having to swap sway bars, power steering pumps, etc... though definitely gives me pause.

Do dry sumps even make sense for a street car? Not so much a conceptual issue but the practical realities of finding space for the oil tank, oil pumps, etc.

While what Duncan said is correct that the ECU you have is very much a fixed function piece of hardware, it is important to understand something. No ECU to my knowledge is ever, ever capable of dealing with a silent injector change. You must always change the injector flow rate settings in the ECU any time you change the injector characteristics substantially. As for your Impul ECU, what kind of fuel do you have access to? If you don't have at least 100 RON gasoline in the tank you should go source a 100% stock factory ECU map, either by replacing the chip on your Impul ECU or sourcing an entire stock ECU. In California we get 91 AKI which is like 96 RON optimistically. Any Japanese chip tune ECU like that is known to destroy engines on our fuel because they run too much ignition timing. If you have the factory boost solenoid my suggestion is to unplug it and cap both ends until you get that fixed. If you think sourcing an ECU is expensive it doesn't hold a candle to having to completely rebuild an RB26 from detonation damage. To actually get an ECU you can use to tune the car with you have to get something that can be programmed. The R34 ECU cannot be programmed easily, Nistune has some remnants of it in their Type6 board support files but something happened there and the guy working on it disappeared off the face of the earth. To do so requires a discontinued Techtom daughterboard and their 90s-era software, as detailed in this thread: If you want to actually tune these cars you have a choice of either Haltech Elite/Nexus (don't get a Platinum Pro, it's no longer actively supported and the feature set is highly limited) or Link ECU. To get the engine to run like factory you will have to do a lot of work to the included "base map", the free base maps provided are not a one for one replication of the factory ECU map. It's just something they made so the engine will start and run but that's it. You should get whatever ECU your trusted (emphasis on trust) tuner recommends. Tuners tend to only learn one method of tuning and one brand's software suite/ECU, so buying anything else is going to be a waste of money.

Part number is 21475-81T00, you will need some bolts and some foam strips to seal the gaps between the shroud and the radiator as seen here: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/engine/214/21475/ As for the actual installation I'm pretty sure you have to remove the fan from the fan clutch, pull it out of the engine, put the shroud around the fan, then lower the shroud + fan together back down into the engine and bolt the fan and shroud back in. I've never done it but I recall seeing people do it that way. I'm not sure your radiator is stock either, which might be why there's no shroud. Maybe a previous owner replaced the radiator, discovered it wouldn't bolt up/fit anymore and just tossed it.

If you're incompetent like me and have a day job figure more like two months, pulling the intake manifold is a very involved job and it's likely that a lot of the rubber you touch isn't going to be reusable which adds a lot of waiting time as you order parts. I highly recommend using painter's tape and a sharpie to label every nut and bolt you pull. I also recommend after every major step that you take photos of the engine bay with a phone camera so you know the orientation of everything as it goes back together. The EPC part diagrams are good but no replacement for actually being able to tell what orientation a heater hose needs to be in, nor will it tell you what direction hose clamps should face so they don't grind into your intake manifold when you go to put it back on. I've also been keeping a journal of notes along the way, any little gotchas to look out for so you remember when you put it back together. It's a lot better than say a BMW S63/N63 engine but it's no walk in the park.

Usually you only do it to pieces that show corrosion. More important than that is your radiator has no fan shroud which is going to be a problem if you ever get stuck in stop and go traffic.

Easiest way to test is try a fixed timing test like 15 degrees regardless of load/RPM, get a timing light on it and see how much it jumps around while you rev. Load doesn't really affect timing scatter.

If you aren't testing you don't really know. A lot of the time I see people confuse excessive foreground illumination for better lighting, the critical test points are something like 0.4 degrees below level in the SAE/US standards. Foreground illumination actually has a number of problems that are dangerous for night driving, it gives a false sense of confidence because your immediate surroundings are brighter but when you're doing 120 km/h anything you see from foreground lighting is impossible to react to, by the time you see it you're going to hit it. Only light just below level will have a chance of illuminating something far out enough to actually see it. On top of this excessive foreground actually makes it harder to see everything else because it's affecting your night vision. And on top of all of that in the rain foreground illumination just turns into glare as the water becomes a specularly reflective surface that bounces light into the eyes of oncoming traffic. Probably the easiest test to do to get an idea for if the LED replacement is any good is to compare the level of the light when using the OEM spec bulbs vs the LED replacement. If the level of the cutoff changes at all that means the optics are not focusing properly, nothing good can come from that. Even if you adjust the level you will probably have worse illumination than when you started. Some suggested reading: http://automotiveledresearch.com/testing-osram-ledriving-hl-h11-gen2-headlight-bulbs/ The inspection equipment they use in Japan for headlight compliance seems to give some indication of where the hotspots are as well, personally after seeing this I'd probably consider a proper retrofit as the hotspot appears to be well below the cutoff:

Did you measure the photometric test points for your locale? Or at least a similar LHD/RHD locale? You seem confident so I'm interested in seeing the data if you have it.

It probably makes the hose barbs that are plastic that much more fragile over time but keeping the coolant circulating is probably a good thing.

I'm pretty sure, but keep in mind 08/1993 to 02/1994 there's a heater control valve part listed as a part of those hose connectors. No idea why and when I go to search up the part number I can't find any photos of it. The english name used is pretty funny so it leads to some jokes on old forums but not much else. I don't know how necessary it is considering how the BCNR33 doesn't have any mention of a heater control valve at all. The BNR32 has a heater control valve that stops the flow of coolant right at the heater core inlet and a water sensor approximately in the same spot as where the heater core bracket is for the R33s. The BCNR33 part diagram for the same parts shows nothing, which implies to me that coolant is always circulating through the heater core.

Part number is 92425-70T00, it's just two plastic tubes attached to a metal bracket: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3898-rb25det/electric/278/92425/

If you guys are going to be putting LEDs in housings that are clearly not designed for them, at least get the CRUIZE LEDs which are at least Shaken compliant. It's not the same as ADR compliance but it's better than nothing.

If we're going to revive a thread like this we should discuss the recent drama around this article: https://www.50ignite.com/blog/technical-blog/article-3-back-to-back-testing-of-370z-coils-re-co

As a general rule I thought hydrocarbons and rubber don't mix? I got a bunch of penetrating oil and other fun stuff on some old hoses as I was taking my engine apart and it was really obvious that it damaged them. I wouldn't risk taking anything like that to rubber I actually wanted to keep.

It's listed on the EPC under "front door panel and fitting", original part number for the RH is 80220-22U00, LH is 80221-22U00. Should bring up the superceding part numbers. The LH is definitely discontinued but might come back under another part number at laughable cost under the Nismo Heritage Parts program, if they made the RH side as recently as last year they might do it for the LH side if they think they can sell out their MOQ. RH is an open question, I have no idea if they're still available but we'll see if my order goes through. To get that one stupid rubber piece you have to buy the entire assembly. In classic Nissan fashion the part was barely painted from the factory so they tend to be extremely rusty when pulled out of the door, so to do the repair "properly" you need to mask off the rubber and get it painted so it doesn't rust again. Looking around you should also expect to spend a lot of time with the door disassembled and adjusting it so the window slides correctly as it seems to be a guide rail for the pillarless windows. This Minkara blog talks about the production dates on their parts, they mention that the driver side part run seems to be relatively recent (2020?) while the passenger side is much older, more like 2016: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/322508/car/2941721/6237254/note.aspx The R32 has a different design, you only need the door rubber seal 80830-04U10 RH and 80831-04U10 LH instead of buying an entire structural component of the door like the R33. I don't really understand why Nissan didn't make the rubber weatherstripping a separate piece like the R32s even if they wanted to have the glass guide be a separate component in the door.

Something about these RBs just makes for huge headaches when it comes to dropping bolts. My very first interaction with the car was changing the plugs out to see if it would cure a misfire. I immediately dropped one of the coilpack cover bolts down the intake side of the engine. I called it a total loss and ordered a set of replacement bolts just to have, but I found the original bolt months later jammed in one of the ITBs, right in a little gap between the intake runners and a reinforcing bridge in the part.

This thread reminded me to order them. LH side is discontinued for R33s, we’ll see if it ever comes back.

Sonax rubber protectant? That won't magically make those rubber seals look brand new but it'll help keep things from getting worse. It'll also make it look less faded for a while.

You have a point there, but the finer points of how the sensors work tends to be a reason why tuners don't like MAF-based tuning. The old hot wire sensors will see weird behavior in transients that requires min/max clamping. Card style hot film is better about reversion but the other issues still apply. There's also all the fun stuff that comes with MAFs on heavily modified intakes, usually OEM engineers sweat those details so there aren't weird issues causing a lot of noise in the MAF signal, etc... I've talked to a number of tuners and even Haltech USA tells me nobody seems to care about MAF support in their ECUs, so they don't really have a lot of experience there. Link support will also say similar things, their near-universal advice is run speed density on their ECUs because tuners don't really use the MAF support so they don't put much effort into maintaining it properly. Personally I don't care, if the factory setup is MAF and after thinking hard on the tradeoffs MAFs still make sense then I'll do whatever it takes to make it run properly, but I don't think that's how most tuners operate. Yes, there's no need to revert a Nistune mod. Personally I would keep it even after switching to a Link as a diagnostic tool while developing a base map properly.