joshuaho96

48521-23U25 doesn't seem impossible to find outside of amayama: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-front-steering-rack-tie-rod-fits-nissan-r33-gts-4-r34-gt-4-c34-stagea-25tx-four-rs-four-rs-four-v?currency=USD I would order it from Amayama and see what happens.

Looks like 08120-62033 to me?

If the slightly higher internal EGR caused by a high flow cat causes detonation your tuner was way, way, way too aggressive to begin with. Timing scatter is a problem unless you go to a crank trigger, winter vs summer blend has different octane, list goes on.

The H1 Alpha with the 6.6 Duramax is basically the actual powerplant it needs to be remotely ok to drive on public roads. It's just not worth the cost to buy a real one. Humvees look cool but man the reality of them is depressing. Grunts aren't kind to them but they aren't that reliable either, they have horrible payload despite absolutely massive size, zero actual armor against mines/small arms, absolutely anemic naturally aspirated diesels, list goes on.

It's a fun daydream but personally just looking at OEM implementations of twincharged engines like the recent Volvo engines it makes my head hurt. So, so much complexity compared to even other GDI turbo inline 4s.

Yep, the pneumatic wastegate setup is actually quite interesting. The problem is where you plan on sourcing enough vacuum to keep the wastegate fully closed for extended periods under boost. BMW used a vacuum pump + vacuum accumulators to make it all work. I can't imagine trying to package any of that in an RB turbo where it feels like the engine bay is already laughably packed.

They have e-gates. At cold start they have the gate fully open to heat the cats faster. Then during cruise as mentioned fully open wastegates reduce exhaust pumping loss.

Are you referring to the common front u-joint + rear CV setup I see sold everywhere? I have a front + rear CV driveshaft on order but if this thing is going to bind I'm just going to leave it as shelf art.

One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.

Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i.

apparently people are still having trouble with this as well

Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.

I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.

Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.

R33 with RB26 seems to go off of learned voltage for idle. Seemed like whatever the baseline voltage was once ECU first gains power will be the idle voltage. With ignition on unplug/replugging the TPS would relearn the idle TPS voltage.

AA100 and AA110 are supposedly not cross listed, not sure what the differences are. Most likely you're better off rebuilding what you have unless the housing is trashed by debris circulating in the system or significant amounts of cavitation.

Presumably yes, but who knows what it'll take to collect on that.

On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.

Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.

I'm not doubting it does something, there's clearly a reason why Nissan bothered with it on the transmission/diff/transfer case but it's more just the effort of finding a drain plug that isn't going to have some unexpected design problem that makes me lazy. For example even the Nismo branded ones here spec way less than the factory 20 N-m. They say only torque to 10 N-m. That is getting absolutely trashed the moment you take it to any mechanic who isn't familiar with the specific requirements and assumes it should be torqued to factory spec.

I have to say, I was briefly considering getting a magnetic drain plug but never could be bothered out of laziness/cheapness and now I'm very glad I didn't.

You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position.

What I don't understand here is that it mentions using a sealant. So either way you're ruining the inside of the tire and making a huge mess to clean up. Why not just do that, air it back up to spec, then take it all off and put it back in the car? Also, why not just include a plug kit that's not garbage?

https://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.4271/2005-01-3825 Heat causes positive pressure in the tank, a slight vacuum in the tank is normally caused by evap purge during normal driving. If the tank is cooled it can also cause a vacuum that pulls air into the system. The linked paper is quite interesting to learn the state of the art for evap fuel control, modern systems the tank is 100% sealed and the tank is reinforced to handle higher than normal pressure/vacuum. It only opens the vent/charcoal canister when you press the button to open the refuel door or when the engine is running. After some reading of systems like the W220 S-Class there's a check valve on the tank vent, but the primary reason it's there is because otherwise the intake manifold would be pulling vacuum on the tank: https://w220.wiki/EVAP_system There might be limited vacuum relief via the charcoal canister, but I don't know how sensitive the check valve is.

Somehow we've reenacted this video completely seriously: