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Found 7 results

  1. So on one of my many trips under the R33 I have found a fairly noticeable section of rust at the rear jack point on the passenger side. Its big enough to need, I would believe, for a section of metal to be cut out and a new one welded in. So Im assuming that any old smash repair shop could do this work, but on contacting one I find that this isn't the case and Id need to find someone who specialises in rust repair. So my questions are... Do you know of anywhere reliable on the east side of the city that can do this work? and Have you repaired similar? how much did it cost you? thanks
  2. So I just got bodywork done my car as I had rust forming near both strut towers in the engine bay. I put the strut bolts back on and it dug into the paint and now I have bare metal exposed in the engine bay. What should I use to prevent rust from forming on the bare metal? I just spent a pretty penny getting the rust taken care of and I would hate to have to take care of it again. Anyone have any suggestions on what I should use to prevent this from happening?
  3. Can you use polish on small rust spots? I've got a very small rust spot on my car, no bigger than 1-2mm that just recently started to rust after i accidentally scratched it a few months ago., I saw a youtube video saying that you can just get polish to remove the rust by wiping down on it hard. I also had a friend tell me to wipe it hard with vinegar, but is that safe for the paint around the stratch? Also if i dont treat the rust, will it just continue rusting from underneath the paint from the areas surrounding the rust? Ive already bought touch up paint but im not sure the best way to remove the small rust spot without f**king the paint. thanks.
  4. Battery acid / paint damage / Negative cable oxidised Obligitory I f***ed up and now i'm paying for it. A year back i went interstate for about 3.5 months and left my car in a mates back yard with a tarp over it. I'd left a lead acid battery connected thinking that i'd just jump start it when i got back. Came back and i had a big star shape of rust under the bonnet above the battery and further surface rust below the battery area. Wonderful. Fast forward a bit, change of address and saved some cash, and firstly, can't find a competent person that can actually tackle this engine bay damage properly, and neutralise whatever the hell it is on the paintwork. I am assuming it is battery acid/vapor damage but i have no idea what happened. I've paid a bloke 900$ in Dandenong (Vic) to crack at it and all his paint is just bubbling up and peeling off again. On their warranty card it says they don't cover rust and he doesn't want anything further to do with it particularly. I've put a brand new lead acid from repco in there and the thing worked for about two weeks and now it won't hold a charge at all. Alternator is giving me 14.4 when i jump it, fortunately i had the alternator reconditioned only 20,000 km's ago. I've noticed some oxidisation on that main negative lead thats soldered and screwed to the chassis but unsure if this can prevent a battery from charging. At the end of the day, i think i've got f**ked battery and it has been leaking down its back all over my engine bay again, no idea why, it's 5 weeks old. I plan to replace it with a dry battery if i can find one that fits. I'll note that on this R34 the battery compartment was really tight and i pulled out a white tray that used to be under the battery. Is it neccesary or no? I know for example my Falcon has its own plastic surround for cooling. This one On the R34 is just sitting on the chassis held with a clamp. Questions i suppose, recommend a type of dry battery thats correct for 34 Gtt? Can a bad negative connection prevent a battery from charging? Why do these lead acid batteries keep freaking bubbling over ( amplified sound system in car too much strain?) Know someone in vic that knows how to tackle rust/acid or an auto elec familiar with fault finding electrics in skylines. Thanks for your time. I'm aware i f***ed up. cheers
  5. Hi guys, Been out of the scene for some time but i am finally in the market to purchase a gtr. I am currently looking at one that has surface rust all underneath, however, on the strut tops and in the boot-well are completely clean. As the car came out of factory with the cold weather package i am a little weary that there is rust places with limited access without removing panels or jamming a camera between panels etc. I am just wondering if anyone can recommend a panel shop that knows skylines quite well and can go over the car for me before purchasing around the Blacktown area. Also just wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are of the rust underneath and strut tops. It seems to me that the strut tops look all original but i am a little iffy as the sealant on the seams is quite thick in places compared to the gtst that i had a few years back.
  6. So my engine blew up, so for the time being I got a rolling body ?. So while I have the chance I want to do some rust and interior repairs... Is it worth remvoving all the rust from the big bar that’s behind the dash and steering column and then re-spraying it with new silver zink spray or am I going into a rabbit hole which is going to be difficult to come out of? If it is worth it and I’m going to do it, does anyone have any advice for me? Cheers in advance
  7. Hi fellas, Ive got a white 33 GTST and I'm getting these recurring spots which look like rust on top of my paint. Sometimes they come off from a decent scrubbing when washed but they mainly have to be polished off. They're relatively small and probably wouldn't show up on camera. Its almost like metal flakes are floating around in the air and then settling on the car. Its generally only on bonnet and boot. Any ideas on what I may be able to do to prevent this in future?
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