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IM-32-FK

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    r34 skyline

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  1. God dammit, I came so close. I always take pics when I disassemble parts but here have a look, I was so close to take a pic of the motor out and what was inside, but I didn’t! (Notice how the last pic has no screws on it) Half the reason I took it out was so the carby cleaner wouldn’t seep into the motor. From what I remember, there was definitely a small spring maybe 3cm in length as well as a small rubber like cylinder with a lip that couldn’t be more than 1cm in length that both came out when I took it off.
  2. I’ve seen that and that guy never said anything about the motor. I took the motor out and cleaned it out with electric contact cleaner. I thought while it’s out I might as well clean it. I guess I shouldn’t have.
  3. I cleaned it out thoroughly, but when I took the motor out a spring and something else fell out of it. I remember putting them both back in, but I’m not sure if there is some procedure to do it properly. If I take the motor out, can you tell me how to assemble it back ? Also I never used any gasket sealant on the gasket, as there was none before
  4. Ok so I got it, it’s the whole IACV unit I need to replace. I’ll let you know how it goes.
  5. Oh and btw, this is how it sounds before the buzzing humming noise comes on. If you listen to this video and the video in my initial post, you’ll definitely hear the difference in sound
  6. Hey is there by any chance that it could be the intake manifolD gaskets, either from top runners to bottom runners or bottom runners to block- even though the car runs perfect? I was looking at various threads on google for similar issues and some said pcv valve but most said intake gaskets. I removed the pcv valve and blew into it from both sides with my lips sealed around it and air didn’t come out from either side. Also if I am to change the intake gaskets, I’ve already got MLS ones. I was checking the service manual and it says nothing about putting gasket glue anywhere even the coolant port. What do you Recommend I do?
  7. So you reckon I should replace the whole IACV? Also if the valve isn’t closing properly, wouldn’t that mean it would idle higher than usual? It sits tight at 900rpm.
  8. Could you tell me which hoses I could possibly have a vacuum leak from? I checked the main input hose going from the j pipe to the iacv looks good
  9. If you watch the video, you’ll notice a loud buzzing sound, especially when I’m nearing the IACV. Hey, it might of been around before, but now the buzzing sound is even overriding the sound of the engine. Is it really loud, enough that I can hear it when I’m sitting in my car even with the exhaust sound. I don’t have a consult cable. Happened around the time I did multiple coolant radiator flushes, changed the alternator. Someone said it could be cause of the alternator, cam belt or power steering belt too tight but I checked and they are good. When I unplug the iacv motor, the sound still remains.
  10. For the past few months I’ve had this buzzing humming sound coming from the IACV motor area on the 25detneo. Only starts when coolant temp goes up to about 70degree from cold start. When you turn the car off, it still sounds for a couple of seconds with a ‘dying’ sound. Here’s a video of what I mean car still runs perfect like nothings wrong. I cleaned out the IACV many months ago including the motor(I used contact electrical cleaner for the motor). I could’ve sworn I put it back together how it came out. I did that thing were you get a hose and put one side in your ear and the other side where the sound is coming from and when I touched it against the IACV motor it was the loudest. does this sound like a IACV motor dying? Or could it be something else related to it? Cheers
  11. Yes the cigarette lighter fuse blows a split second after it lights on
  12. Yes, you are right. The cigg socket has a power and ground wire going to it whereas the cigg light got just has a power wire and a prong that grounds itself to the cig socket when it’s pushed against it. The cig light is always turned on because it turns on when the key is on the ON position, just like the screen for the climate control on r34. I would like to mention, when I make it sit naturally like in the pic, the light doesn’t turn on or react. Only when I ground it to other parts of the metal cigg socket, will it turn on for a split second before shorting again. What does this mean? Do you think the issue is the socket for the light bulb itself? Maybe it is f**ked? Maybe I should order a new one.
  13. How sure are you? I checked the wiring, the pos and neg of the boost controller are directly bridged to the pos and neg of the cigarette socket. I’m also trying it with a t5 led globe not those standard halogen t5 bulbs. The socket for the light housing and cigarette housing are seperate. The light housing grounds onto the cigarette housing with a large pin that pushes against the cigarette housing. If I’m grounding it after turning the key to ON, will it cause it to short? id like to mention that the cigarette lighter socket still works, like I can put a USB charger in it and it’ll work, but as soon as I put the light in the socket it shorts out. Also I’m running nothing but the reverse camera directly to accessory wire for the head deck
  14. Usually with all the skylines I’ve owned issues at 2500rpm always seemed to be related to the air flow meter. Usually when the AFM is dead it limits your revs to 2500. Your one might be dirty as f**k inside it, or you may be even using the wrong one. So clean it with contact cleaner or afm cleaner. Just make sure one side of the afm has the mesh on it though, because removing that also causes problems. Also check the afm wiring, it might be loose or come off. I would also clean the inside of the boost solenoid.
  15. Hey all, with the lockdown in effect, I thought I’d fix some things in my car. I was trying to get the light around the cigarette lighter rim to work, but it kept shorting out. I figured out that the previous owner connected the blitz dual sbc boost controllers positive red and ground black wire straight to the positive and negative wire of the cigarette lighter socket. I guess when I now connect the light to the socket it’s shorting out because it’s going over amperage(15A). so I was wondering where to connect the positive and negative for the boost controller. I was thinking maybe to the head deck radio loom. cheers
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