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Everything posted by IM-32-FK

  1. God dammit, I came so close. I always take pics when I disassemble parts but here have a look, I was so close to take a pic of the motor out and what was inside, but I didn’t! (Notice how the last pic has no screws on it) Half the reason I took it out was so the carby cleaner wouldn’t seep into the motor. From what I remember, there was definitely a small spring maybe 3cm in length as well as a small rubber like cylinder with a lip that couldn’t be more than 1cm in length that both came out when I took it off.
  2. I’ve seen that and that guy never said anything about the motor. I took the motor out and cleaned it out with electric contact cleaner. I thought while it’s out I might as well clean it. I guess I shouldn’t have.
  3. I cleaned it out thoroughly, but when I took the motor out a spring and something else fell out of it. I remember putting them both back in, but I’m not sure if there is some procedure to do it properly. If I take the motor out, can you tell me how to assemble it back ? Also I never used any gasket sealant on the gasket, as there was none before
  4. Ok so I got it, it’s the whole IACV unit I need to replace. I’ll let you know how it goes.
  5. Oh and btw, this is how it sounds before the buzzing humming noise comes on. If you listen to this video and the video in my initial post, you’ll definitely hear the difference in sound
  6. Hey is there by any chance that it could be the intake manifolD gaskets, either from top runners to bottom runners or bottom runners to block- even though the car runs perfect? I was looking at various threads on google for similar issues and some said pcv valve but most said intake gaskets. I removed the pcv valve and blew into it from both sides with my lips sealed around it and air didn’t come out from either side. Also if I am to change the intake gaskets, I’ve already got MLS ones. I was checking the service manual and it says nothing about putting gasket glue anywhere even the coolant port. What do you Recommend I do?
  7. So you reckon I should replace the whole IACV? Also if the valve isn’t closing properly, wouldn’t that mean it would idle higher than usual? It sits tight at 900rpm.
  8. Could you tell me which hoses I could possibly have a vacuum leak from? I checked the main input hose going from the j pipe to the iacv looks good
  9. If you watch the video, you’ll notice a loud buzzing sound, especially when I’m nearing the IACV. Hey, it might of been around before, but now the buzzing sound is even overriding the sound of the engine. Is it really loud, enough that I can hear it when I’m sitting in my car even with the exhaust sound. I don’t have a consult cable. Happened around the time I did multiple coolant radiator flushes, changed the alternator. Someone said it could be cause of the alternator, cam belt or power steering belt too tight but I checked and they are good. When I unplug the iacv motor, the sound still remains.
  10. For the past few months I’ve had this buzzing humming sound coming from the IACV motor area on the 25detneo. Only starts when coolant temp goes up to about 70degree from cold start. When you turn the car off, it still sounds for a couple of seconds with a ‘dying’ sound. Here’s a video of what I mean car still runs perfect like nothings wrong. I cleaned out the IACV many months ago including the motor(I used contact electrical cleaner for the motor). I could’ve sworn I put it back together how it came out. I did that thing were you get a hose and put one side in your ear and the other side where the sound is coming from and when I touched it against the IACV motor it was the loudest. does this sound like a IACV motor dying? Or could it be something else related to it? Cheers
  11. Yes the cigarette lighter fuse blows a split second after it lights on
  12. Yes, you are right. The cigg socket has a power and ground wire going to it whereas the cigg light got just has a power wire and a prong that grounds itself to the cig socket when it’s pushed against it. The cig light is always turned on because it turns on when the key is on the ON position, just like the screen for the climate control on r34. I would like to mention, when I make it sit naturally like in the pic, the light doesn’t turn on or react. Only when I ground it to other parts of the metal cigg socket, will it turn on for a split second before shorting again. What does this mean? Do you think the issue is the socket for the light bulb itself? Maybe it is f**ked? Maybe I should order a new one.
  13. How sure are you? I checked the wiring, the pos and neg of the boost controller are directly bridged to the pos and neg of the cigarette socket. I’m also trying it with a t5 led globe not those standard halogen t5 bulbs. The socket for the light housing and cigarette housing are seperate. The light housing grounds onto the cigarette housing with a large pin that pushes against the cigarette housing. If I’m grounding it after turning the key to ON, will it cause it to short? id like to mention that the cigarette lighter socket still works, like I can put a USB charger in it and it’ll work, but as soon as I put the light in the socket it shorts out. Also I’m running nothing but the reverse camera directly to accessory wire for the head deck
  14. Usually with all the skylines I’ve owned issues at 2500rpm always seemed to be related to the air flow meter. Usually when the AFM is dead it limits your revs to 2500. Your one might be dirty as f**k inside it, or you may be even using the wrong one. So clean it with contact cleaner or afm cleaner. Just make sure one side of the afm has the mesh on it though, because removing that also causes problems. Also check the afm wiring, it might be loose or come off. I would also clean the inside of the boost solenoid.
  15. Hey all, with the lockdown in effect, I thought I’d fix some things in my car. I was trying to get the light around the cigarette lighter rim to work, but it kept shorting out. I figured out that the previous owner connected the blitz dual sbc boost controllers positive red and ground black wire straight to the positive and negative wire of the cigarette lighter socket. I guess when I now connect the light to the socket it’s shorting out because it’s going over amperage(15A). so I was wondering where to connect the positive and negative for the boost controller. I was thinking maybe to the head deck radio loom. cheers
  16. I was looking through the r34 service manual and they got lazy. They don’t give instructions on how to replace parts in the engine bay. They just give torque settings for certain things and don’t even give you the removal and replacement instructions or the order to put the bolts in etc. but on the r33 service manual they do. I need to change the intake manifold gaskets and the r33 manual Gives you detailed instructions on how to do it and what order to put the bolts in with diagrams but the r34 Manual doesn’t. Can I just follow the instructions on the r33 Manual to change the gaskets on my r34? for example here is a snippet from the r33 manual to change the intake manifold gasket. ON THE R34 manual I can’t find that. Am I missing something? Can anyone have a quick look on the r34 service manual to see if I missed it? cheers
  17. Thanks a lot for that. If anything you can get plazmaman 600 300 76 intercoolers for really cheap like $500, but then I’d need to spend another $500 at least to get pipe work post intercooler. I think I now have everything and am ready to put it all in. I don’t plan on running a catch can to turbo intake, so I’ll run the two breathers on rocker cover to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. And I also bought a pcv blanking bung, so I don’t get oil into the plenum. Is it safe to run it like this? It won’t cook the engine? also I got a z32 afm but I heard the r35 gtr afm cards are ‘better’. I’m pretty sure with my setup I’m going to be pushing maybe 18-22psi on a 3076r. Obviously r35 afm is better but will the z32 suffice?
  18. The blitz rf is 620 x 266 x 76mm. I was thinking maybe 600x300x100 but that might lag and that’s the last thing I want. Otherwise I’ll just go the size you mentioned. What do you think is best?
  19. That’s good to know. I need to get the dump pipe v banded, the stock ex mani external wastegated, need new piping fab done post compressed housing so I’ll just see if he can also do me a non return setup. A guy sent me pics of how u can do non return flow without cutting anything. But I would need to cut the exit port on the blitz intercooler so it’s straight rather than coming down 180 degree. Why didn’t blitz just make it straight and put 180degree silicon hose instead? anyway stupid question but do the internals of the intercooler make it a return flow or is it just the exit port? Like if I cut the port and make it straight then will the intercooler be a non return intercooler and act accordingly? cheers
  20. Wow, really? I’ve got the setup where the exit port on the intercooler(cold side) has a 180 degree bend to the bottom and the piping goes underneath the intercooler. Are you saying I could 300kw+ with it? I’m looking to get about 310-320kw from my setup so I’d have that extra 20kw if I can. btw how does the stock headgasket and head studs hold up at 320kw unopened neo? Big job to pull apart the head and change the gasket that’s all. cheers
  21. Hi all, as I’m aware, but I might be wrong, the gtrs run a non return ffp setup stock. But on my GTT, I was wondering if there is any way to run non return piping post intercooler without having to cut out some metal around the battery area.(even if I retain the stock intake manifold or go ffp) Is it possible? I just don’t want to cut metal out of the engine bay because I want the body to be stock as possible, but will if I have to because it is said the return flow piping usually restricts at 300kw. cheers
  22. If I’m to do that, is it okay for the bolt and nut to be in contact with the ecu? I just don’t want it surging or shorting out. I was thinking u can get those raised plastic cylinder things to act as a spacer between the ecu and the nut and bolt
  23. Ah okay. I can drill new holes for the mounting points but is the loom plug opening smaller or bigger than the neo? Cause either way I can grind it to be bigger and it doesn’t matter if the 33 ecu opening is bigger, if it leaves a gap that’s not a problem
  24. Guys I said f**k it and bought a nistune for $350. The guy I bought it off didn’t have a case for it, I was wondering if any non neo ecu case eg 33 ecu will house the neo motherboard and nistune chip nice and snug. I only ask cause neo ecu‘a usually go for $150+ and r33 ecus are only $50. also unrelated question: is the oil pan bolt meant to have a rubber washer on it? Cause mine just have a metal washer ‘welded’ on the bolt. And I only ask cause my oil pan seems to have oil residue all over it.
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