IM-32-FK

I ended up getting a custom twin plate clutch - one plate is ceramic cushion button and the other is ceramic sprung. Rated for 800hp. Also got a pull to push conversion and I upgraded to a heavy duty clutch fork because the standard push fork is thinner and can warp easier. Also also, got redline mt90 gearbox oil with the smooth shifter additive. Should last me as long as the life of the car.

I had one too, bought my car with it on, did 40k km on it and sold it for 1k back in 2018. I’m not sure how many km it had on it before I bought the car. like you said, great clutch but the pedal feel wasn’t great - it felt too light and it was almost like the clutch only started to engage when the pedal was maybe 30-45% off the floor, unlike the organic heavy duty which pretty much start as soon as you start lifting your foot off the pedal. Is this the only real diff between the organic and ceramic twin plate sprung centre? I haven’t been hearing many good things about xtreme and their drivability, some say they rattle too much.

I don’t know why but they have two catalogues. Here is the other one I just found yes if I can I’m gonna get the sprung organic twin otherwise I’ll get the solid organic twin im just overwhelmed with the choices and brands. What about OS giken and exedy? I’m just looking to spend $2-2.5k

https://www.npcperformance.com.au/series/r34-rb25det-neo-gt-t/ If you think npc which one of these do you recommend for street use with sometimes rolling and drag races. The super heavy duty ceramic button kit one is a puk style single plate that says it holds 450kw. But it’s ceramic so I think it may not be suitable for street use. And is the billet light wheel flywheel worth it or should I just stick with normal flywheel that’s already in the car from exedy. also do you know up to what kw the xtreme twin plate organic solid center 230mm holds? In the future I’ll try to get like 700-800hp many years from now

This setup is costing me way too much that it’s kinda turning me off it. I just realised I’m gonna need a new twin plate clutch kit since my exedy single plate heavy duty clutch (610nm) won’t ever be able to hold 380kw. And now because it’s pull I gotta pay like $800 extra as opposed to a push type (pull to push conversion comes in the clutch kit). Does this sound normal? - $25k in parts only to reach 380kw power level? Plus $4k in labour and about 2k in tune? I swear to god I could’ve bought a brand new 2023 Mazda 3 for that price. I got no choice though, as I’m too deep now. I got my eyes on an Xtreme organic solid centre twin plate (kni23582-2g) that has a 1210nm rating. Costs $2300 plus maybe $700 in labour. I mean i might as well get something that can hold something like 750hp in the future. I never used xtreme but are they good enough?

That’s very true, that’s what they do. But my common sense says that since the wideband has a greater range of parameters than a narrowband, and it is much more diverse and comprehensive, then once you tune it and chuck the narrowband back on, the ecu won’t be getting the same values and readouts therefore the car may not run optimally. I might be wrong (probably), I’m not an expert I already got an oil temp sensor and gauge but not coolant pressure. I was never told to put one on. I was told by a reputable Melbourne tuner that at that power level their won’t be any issues with oil starvation.

Just an update. you are wrong. Factory gtt doesn’t not run a n1 pump. That’s false information. im also surprised no one mentioned that I should run oil and fuel pressure setup, along with a a wideband 02. I had to buy these as the tuner said he wouldn’t touch it without. I also decided to run a keypad. I’m just asking what buttons to run. - low boost -moderate boost -high boost - anti lag on/off switch - electric radiator fan runs 20% faster - 100% ign cut on 2 step for bangs and wanks - 2step at 3500rpm with a robust ign and fuel cut -2step at 4000rpm with a robust ign and fuel cut -extremely retarded timing -i want a spastic setting where the explosion is massive bangs and flames to be like hiroshima Nagasaki, what is this called? what are some of the more sensible features I should run? Cruise control and traction control? Anything else? what are some other features you recommend I put on the keypad? Arp head bolts on an unopened neo engine running 380-400kw at the engine. Thanks

@The Bogan Does the oil pump and pickup work based on revs or based on how much oil is in the sump or head. Because if I’m running the factory n1 oil pump, then getting a 6L sump won’t cause more oil in the head, simply because with the current 4.5L factory sump, it feeds and drains accordingly so there isn’t starvation or too much oil in the head. So with the 6L sump it’s going to feed and drain at the same rate, except theirs gonna be more oil in the sump. Is this correct? I don’t know if I explained it right but I hope you get what I’m saying

Sounds like too much work for now to be able to do it properly. I’ll do it a bit down the line. dose pipe told me the neo has factory n1 oil pump so I’ll stick with that.

The Lewis engine one looks nice, says it’s got a 6L capacity, it’s baffled and gated. But I was doing some research and it said that with higher capacity sumps, it causes the head have more oil, which can cook it. Please advise.

DET neo comes factory with n1 oil pump? Well that’s news to me (neo also has rb26 piston rods) what sump do you recommend ? also since the plenum is coming off I should change the thermostat too. Do you recommend oem or aftermarket? Lower or higher temp?

what else do you guys recommend I upgrade for the safe and healthy functioning of the rb25det neo motor around ~400kw? would an n1 oil pump be a good upgrade? They are gtr gear but will it fit a neo?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Duncan @robbo_rb180 @Ben C34 @R3N3 I spoke with whoever runs the Facebook Link ecu page and he said I won’t be able to run IAT, flex fuel sensor, boost setting switch and DBW all at the same time because their isn’t enough I/O, even after the spare I/O’s I get after deleting IACV and TPS. He said “e throttle is I/O intensive”. He came up with a solution for me. He told me to send the ecu out to their office to get it modified. “The next option would be to have the board modified to drive E throttle directly rather than using the module. We can then add in additional wires to access other I/O that is not currently wired to a connector.” So he is going to hardwire 4 AN inputs and 2 aux inputs to the ecu and I connect the dbw to that. best of all, this mod means I don’t need to buy the $500 link e throttle module, and I’m getting charged $200-250 to get it modified. Now I got enough I/O to connect the flex sensor, iat and boost switch through the expansion loom. I sent it off earlier today. cheering

I’m starting to worry. The guy at link said I need to run 3 AN volt inputs and 3 Aux channels for the DBW. I don’t see any aux channel plus I also need to run a IAT, flex fuel sensor and a boost control missile switch. Will I have enough I/O? It’s a Gttlink plugin do they all need to run to the expansion ports? Here is a pic of the expansion ports

Yes i mean, it’s been crushed, compressed and shaped to seal the stock upper plenum, and since I’m gonna put the plazmaman upper half now, I was thinking it might not seal it 100%. By the way it’s a MLS steel shim gasket.

Is it still okay to use the collector intake gasket, the one that sits between top and bottom half stock intake manifold? Like it was a new gasket that was put on and bolted down but the engine was never ran with it on.

So I’m guessing my plug in g4+ requires a link e throttle module? https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/products/link-ecu-e-throttle-g4-g4ret?currency=AUD&variant=44179266109672&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&hsa_acc=9668545500&hsa_cam=18866448471&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86K2nfmq_gIVqJlmAh37NAakEAQYASABEgLZLPD_BwE

im not going to do it but im just curious, do you have an idea about the wiring? where do wires from pedal go, where do wires from tb go and where does the link g4ret fit in? i think i may need a second expansion loom. this setup is costing me $2400

its alright i already got the gtr metal pedal to fit gtt rod, just had to bore out the little plastic thing that sits inside the rod and the pedal theres also this one https://www.powertune.com.au/collections/rb26-solutions/products/dbw-electronic-dbw-pedal-suits-r32-r33-r34-gtr

this one? it says for r34 gtr but i got gtt. would it fit? also im guessing that doesnt come with pedal and you need to install your oem one in it? so this product just lines up and bolts directly onto the oem position https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD

so as far as im aware you can either 1- buy a bosch dbw pedal and mount it onto the chassis https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/accelerator-pedal-module 2- Buy an adapter plate that lets you mount a 350z or BA/BF falcon dbw pedal onto skyline chassis stock position https://rbfactory.shop/products/ls1-drive-by-wire-pedal-mount-to-nissan-silvia-skyline 3- or buy a ready built one like this https://www.iee.nz/product-page/gtr-electronic-pedal-conversion?currency=AUD ive found the adaptor for supras to mount on the bosch dbw pedal, but i cant find one for r34 skylines

ok i bought a plazmaman inlet with a 74 dbw, but that means i need to buy a link g4ret and also need to buy a pedal and mount so it comes down to paying like $500 more compared to throttle cable setup. it better be worth it.

just a couple more questions: - i was the told the r32 tps is better than 33/neo tps because it has a 'longer/bigger/larger' pulse and that i should run that instead - was also told to run a slytech 2 wire universal iacv too instead of the stock iacv on a plazmaman plenum because the coolant spring in the stock iacv can cause problems anyone care to advise?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu ive currently got this blitz sbc solenoid, but i might as well get a mac valve. I see alot of brands copy the original MAC design down to the colour, like innovative and turbosmart. Which one do you prefer? the innovative ones says its 'high resolution. what fitting style do you use? oh and also i used to work in yagonna, right by birrong automotive too. I got them to replace my speed sensor and clutch master cylinder way back like nearly 10 years ago

like this setup?