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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. The ignition signal circuit error means something in the path between the ECU ignition output to the coilpack trigger is broken open. Start with checking the connectors at the coilpacks and work backwards from there until you find it.
  2. I looked up the price of OEM coils and the prices are nuts if you can't find some special pricing. You can get R35 Hitachi coils from Rockauto in the US for like 60 USD each. As far as I can tell they don't really have a counterfeit part problem either.
  3. Isn't new Nissan 8mm fuel hose made of FPM inner liner and E85 safe these days? Most of the lines in the car were replaced as a part of a chassis refresh because they were all severely dry rotted and ready to burst, I'm just down to the last little bits. The line from the fuel filter to the plenum hard line was definitely an FPM/ECO line, so I probably cut something relatively new out of general incompetence. Curiously something I learned is the Series 3 R33 fuel hose clamps went from the screw-types of the earlier cars to a constant tension spring clamp, from the pictures I found it looks like it has two layers for extra fun/spring tension. I'm not really wedded to 100% factory for purity's sake, I'm just generally skeptical of aftermarket parts unless they have proven benefits.
  4. I have to buy a big spool of 8mm fuel line anyways for the fuel filter line which is a Nissan generic line cut to length. I was just hoping to simplify my life by buying a pre-cut line because I have no idea what I'm doing and I don't want to risk something not fitting exactly right with slightly off OD causing the hose clamps to not be quite right or general clearance issues.
  5. The RS/2530/4R/5R all looked pretty mediocre IMO, looks like they recently announced something that is no longer based on the MHI cores as well: https://www.hks-power.co.jp/product_db/turbo/db/29690 I've yet to figure out what could possibly replace the GTIII-SS for the weird corner of "basically stock but not ceramic turbine". Basically the same "design concept" as what HKS says for the GT4135 in that link. Nismo is busy rehashing R34 N1 turbos and calling it a new turbo, only Garrett makes bolt-on turbos and the designs are decades old at this point. Tomei has the T550B but nobody has tested them and talked about it on the internet and their old ARMS M7655 was just garbage.
  6. I'm busy replacing all the rubber lines on the intake side of the engine and something I've been having a hard time figuring out is what's going on with the Nissan parts catalog for the fuel rail hoses. I was planning on doing everything all OEM but the short fuel lines under the intake plenum that go to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail are discontinued for the series 1/2 R33. Original part number is 16446-05U01, Amayama claims the replacement is 17555-3S806 but looking it up that just looks like generic 8mm fuel line that requires cutting to length. The series 3 R33 part number is still available, 16446-24U00. I can't find any photos of it but the price looks a lot more sane. Looking up the plenum the part number is the same for all R33, the same is true of the fuel hardline under the plenum, the damper, the fuel rail, intake manifold, and FPR. Is there any particular reason to not buy the series 3 fuel line instead? I did notice that the fuel line clamps are different part numbers, but I'm replacing every hose clamp I touch anyways.
  7. Does this even clear the ballast for cars with the series 3 HIDs?
  8. Guess I'm going to have to buy a bunch of thin nuts, from what I recall when I pulled the plenum off it barely cleared the clutch master cylinder. Someone else suggested pulling the clutch master cylinder to get enough clearance but that makes me nervous with the hard line coming off of it. Is it really just cylinder 5 and 6 that need the studs removed? I'm trying to picture it mentally and the only way I can imagine that working is if you cant it in somehow. Also, any idea on torque spec for those studs? Hand tight?
  9. "Below is the index from the manual it is a copy and paste and not laid out as it should be but is the full index. Please note this is a full factory workshop manual not just the engine but a manual for the entire vehicle. Some idiot did copy our engine manual for this vehicle and sells it online and it is a shit scan and only covers the engine, since then we translated the rest of the Japanese manual which covers the entire vehicle. We get asked all the time if this is just the engine or the full manual. This is the full manual."
  10. They mention that the engine manual is a crappy scan of their old translation uploaded to the internet. The 150 dollar manual is the complete workshop manual supposedly. I might spring for that down the road, it gets tiring to cross-reference against the R34 manual. The suspension components especially are different so I'm not sure what the torque specs would be there.
  11. Anyone ever done this? Nismo says the plenum doesn't fit without dropping the engine first, I've heard from people that it can fit without doing this but it sounds like it might be a real challenge. Obviously this is a really expensive pointless mod for power but supposedly it helps a bit with turbo lag with the longer runners and better cylinder airflow distribution so cylinder 6 and the rear turbo is less likely to fail first. OEM plenum/collector came out pretty easily, the intake manifold was the really challenging part.
  12. A guy I know near me recently rounded off his front diff plugs so definitely don't go nuts, especially with the fill plug. Spark plugs are about the only thing where I try to tighten to middle of torque spec instead of lower end of torque spec and I do it with the engine cold.
  13. Transmission: Transfer case: Front and Rear differential: All taken from the R34 workshop manual, I'm pretty sure that the differentials and therefore the torque specs are the same. The R34 GTR transmission is different but they list a torque spec for the 30A transmission which is shared with the R33 GTR. Transfer case is a different part on the R34 GTR with a thinner chain. It would be nice to get the Japanese R33 workshop manual, the english manuals out there tend to not be as comprehensive and between DeepL/Google Translate you don't really need a fully translated manual these days.
  14. You should probably verify that the gauge cluster is receiving the RPM signal instead of blindly guessing. Electrical circuits aren't magic even if it seems like it sometimes.
  15. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1127497/Z32-Knock-Control---Do-you-know-your-ABCs.html Light reading on how the Z32s did knock control. Even in the 90s knock control was pretty decent, at least for saving the engine. It isn't quite as sophisticated as what you'll see in OEM ECUs today but it's still more advanced than some standalone ECUs out there.
  16. Yeah, I probably should've mentioned that I meant factory ECU with Nistune or comparable method to change the map. I don't really consider having R&R corners of the map as "engine protection". Actual knock control/knock maps does count as engine protection though. AFAIK the RB26 ECUs also have a table for TPS vs RPM which will automatically short-circuit the MAF-based load calculation and skip straight to max load as a protection measure.
  17. For a street car I'm pretty sure the stock ECU is more advanced as far as engine protection goes
  18. It's kind of like handicapping yourself with EV1 injectors only. Can they do the job? Yes. Are the improvements big enough that you'll actually miss having EV14s? Also yes. Why handicap yourself with a PowerFC? Life is too short to spend it constantly afraid that your tune will blow up your engine. I would rather have zero mechanical mods and just a Haltech Elite 2500 if it came down to it, but I plan on doing quite a lot of map development on my own.
  19. You should probably verify your base ignition timing and do a compression test before you celebrate.
  20. There is nothing cheap about building an RB either way. You either pay in having someone incompetent wreck your engine which I've heard many stories about or you can take the buy once cry once approach. HKS complete engines are extremely expensive for what you get though, you're going to pay probably 10-15k USD in HKS tax alone. I would start by asking yourself what you actually use the car for and to what degree. If you just want a 2.8L stroker for a responsive street/track hybrid car that is comparable to a stock car in maintenance requirements and general reliability that's a very different set of requirements compared to a 100% dedicated track car that will never spend substantial time below 4000 RPM and will get torn down after every season for inspection if not rebuild. If you're going for something that looks like the latter then you want something like the HKS "high response" 2.8L stroker kit. I'm sure there are a bunch of similar designs out there, don't just blindly drop 1.5M yen on a stroker kit because I name-dropped that one. If this is primarily a street car that may sometimes find itself on a track then there's no point in wasting money on pistons that are designed to take 700+ hp and 9000+ RPM but require high piston to wall clearance with all of the disadvantages that go with that. You need to be honest with yourself here before you get any deeper into this. Also, I wouldn't let just anybody do this engine build. There is a wide gap between letting the tuner that possibly just trashed your engine attempt to rebuild it and going to HKS/Nismo for a crate engine. Club DSport in the US can probably be trusted to build an RB and not screw things up. They won't be cheap, they may have massive lead times, but they have a reputation to uphold and you can read their published testing and experimentation on the RBs to get a sense of their worldview. They're probably still cheaper than a Nismo engine which is like 7.2M yen if you want a comparable 2.8L stroker. Even if you decide that all you need is something like an HKS 2.8 Step 0 with basically factory cams and factory head, there are still a ton of gotchas in rebuilding an engine.
  21. When you snap the throttle closed the primary concern is hydrocarbon shoot-through on the catalyst, if you suddenly snap the throttle closed you will pull high vacuum which will cause port injected engines to flash a bunch of fuel on the intake walls into vapor and cause a rich spike that is hard to control for, even with x-tau transient control it's normal to have a bit of a rich spike. Even with GDI engines it still seems to be challenging to control fuel in transients so the easy fix is to just smooth out the decay with drive by wire. As for why an automatic from 20 years ago will have revs fall to near idle the instant you let off the accelerator vs a modern automatic or a manual transmission, the reason is that almost every older automatic I've driven unlocks the torque converter when you let off the gas and they don't lock the torque converter until you're at something like 64 kph anyways, it was mostly done to improve efficiency of the overdrive gear. Modern automatic transmissions in an effort to improve fuel efficiency will lock the torque converter as soon as 9 mph these days and depending upon what the ECU/TCU thinks you're doing will either keep the torque converter locked to keep the engine in DFCO to help slow down the car or it might unlock to reduce the amount of KE loss in coasting. Manual transmissions never had a torque converter so they don't have torque converter slip.
  22. If you think it's bad on an RWD car try an AWD one. I'm barely at the point where I can undo the intake plenum bolts and try to slide it off.
  23. If you want to run a Haltech there's no harness needed, you can just run the stock harness and sensors/actuators. I believe it is recommended somewhere here to swap the stock boost solenoid and go from a 2 port to a 3 port solenoid with vacuum lines to suit but I haven't gotten to that part yet.
  24. I agree, I've done it before and it's not that bad but in the case of the RB26 the ITBs add extra "fun" that I really just can't be bothered to deal with. I just fundamentally disagree with using alpha-N as a load sensing strategy to compensate for where speed density doesn't work in ITBs.
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