joshuaho96

I agree with this but that's because I don't want a spray coating that is impossible to remove.

The air gap in your reservoir at the bottom should not exceed 5mm. When the air bleed mode is set by unplugging the connector the pump should run to maintain a fixed target pressure. If it's not re-pressurizing after cracking the nipple for a second then something might be wrong. But if it holds pressure then it's probably fine.

Actuator block on the R33 is crammed opposite the exhaust under the steel trunk panel. On an R32 you can just pull the ATTESA fuses and it will deactivate the pump.

RHDJapan would be insanely expensive because they don't have a container shipping/surface shipping option.

Looking up the parts catalog in the US it mentions what looks like an electric water pump for the "high output"/400 hp spec: https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/parts-list/2020-infiniti-q50/radiator-components.html?pnc=26 It's also mentioned here: https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/a-closer-look-at-the-vr30ddtts-turbochargers/ According to AMS it is a second intercooler pump: https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-vr30-auxiliary-intercooler-pump-kit/ Also the speed sensor for the high output spec makes sense. They're probably concerned with how small the turbo is that a boost leak or whatever other unexpected issue at 14.5 psi will overspeed those turbos and create a warranty claim. The CHRA disintegrating into the oil/coolant/intake will probably cascade into total engine failure. The VR30DDTT is not a super robust and reliable engine IMO so they're kind of right to be concerned.

It would be good to test what happens if you disconnect both the failsafe and main ETS solenoid on the actuator block. If it goes away then for some reason it's commanding AWD when it shouldn't. Which could mean your tires are unevenly worn. If it still binds also de-power the pump. If that fixes it then something is wrong with your actuator block leaking pump pressure when it shouldn't. If all of that doesn't work then it has to be your transfer case preload or something like that.

Does it go away if you disable the transfer case?

It will help a little as others have said but don't expect miracles. And most tuners are not remotely interested in tuning fuel economy so expect to have to learn and do it yourself.

This is the correct way yes.

I'm confused honestly by this, as far as I can tell isn't this basically all repairable using off the shelf bicycle/motorcycle components? Other than the inevitable injection molded plastic bits. The T end piece is a very common bowden cable part that just requires the right crimper to replace, etc.

The only thing I will say about your vacuum line routing is that you want to make sure you didn't accidentally go too high and use the vacuum chamber ports that go into the BOV and evap lines. I'm pretty sure you didn't because it appears to be angled correctly but you never know, the video is not crystal clear and I'm working off of some assumptions. Reference this picture to get an idea for what I'm talking about, you can see how the angled vacuum pipes attached to the coolant pipe are for the boost solenoid but there are two more ports for other things: You can probably just blow through the hoses with your mouth but it may not be enough flow to be sure that it's working one way or another. You don't need super precise pressure control, you just don't want to exceed 20 psi for example. So if your compressor has a tank just get it to 15 psi and then shut off the compressor entirely for the rest of the test. You only need to verify that the air is flowing through the solenoid the way it should be. Everyone is telling you to run new lines for everything but personally if you have already verified the factory boost control worked before doing all this I still think using the OEM wiring + vacuum lines reduces the amount of unknowns you need to test. OEM is what works, the less you change the better IMO.

This is what your setup is: Port 1 - atmospheric vent Port 2 - wastegate port Port 3 - Pre-throttle boost source Compared against this diagram: So the vacuum line setup actually seems ok to me? You might need to use an air compressor or just blow through the hoses. When it's off it should connect port 3 to port 2. When it's on it should connect port 1 to port 2 instead. Set it to 90% duty cycle on the Haltech and see if that is actually happening. Don't run the engine when doing this experiment and remember to set the values back to something normal afterwards. Put 14 psi into port 1 vacuum line and verify you can hear it venting into the intake piping before the turbos. It shouldn't hold pressure substantially. If all the function tests check out set a boost fuel cut for something very conservative like 2 psi over wastegate boost and set the solenoid duty cycle to 90%. If you still get stuck at wastegate boost then try just running with port 2 open to atmosphere with the same conservative boost cut. Before you actually set that boost cut the way I describe see if it works at 2 psi of boost for example. You don't want to find out after the fact whether the boost cut didn't work as intended. Make sure to set a large hysteresis as well in the fuel cut so you aren't bouncing off of it.

yep, both can fail: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/06/attesa-ecu-fault-code-18-and-19.html

G sensors do not affect the pump. Entirely separate issues. Most likely your hydraulic unit has some fault. Is your nitrogen accumulator reasonably new? If it’s original you probably need to replace it along with whatever else is broken.

I don’t think they’re known for junk but they aren’t particularly standouts as far as I know.

There are a bunch of ZF8HP swap kits out there for the RB26. A ZF6 is mostly the same thing mechanically as far as I can tell: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569774

I was thinking of putting a nipple into the factory rubber hose or the aftermarket metal pipe after the merge pipe but yes regardless it's kind of annoying and impractical. I also really don't think it should be a problem if the factory boost solenoid was working prior to this.

Isn't a G30-770 going to be better for response? It's going to have to be run much harder and I'd probably use a turbo speed sensor but if response is the goal a T4 divided housing G30-770 seems like it would be right-sized for the job.

This is just a part of learning how to modify a car. 1. When it comes from the plenum (before the throttle bodies) it accounts for the losses through the intake piping. Personally I do not think this is your problem. 2. I think the suggestion is to basically completely re-do the vacuum lines instead of using the factory setup. So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe. Then you would disconnect the factory hoses going into the wastegate and put in your own hose with a tee piece to join it all together. I kind of find it hard to believe that the factory plumbing won't work for what sounds like a mostly normal configuration. As others have said you should post clear, well-lit pictures showing what you've done. It may also be that your issue is wiring, a bad solenoid, your MAC valve actually has different port numbering/orientation than the normal ones online, etc.

Curious to know if anyone has taken calipers to something like a 040 980cc injector to measure the diameter of the extended tip. Is it under 8.5mm or so?

Hypertune has had a lot of complaints here recently regarding customer service, I'd probably pass unless you want to deal with that.

Still the same deal, follow the diagnostic workflows posted earlier in the thread. If you can verify it's getting the right supply voltage and then verify that the signal outputs are sane then it's either a harness fault or your A-LSD control unit is damaged somehow.

Both the WGNC34 and BCNR33 have the FS5R30A as a transmission option. The Autech 260RS version is going to run the same sensor as a BCNR33. The RB25DET version does have a different speed sensor but the RPM/tach issue is unrelated. On R33s the tachometer comes from the ECU.

Doesn't take much, once the pump hits 120 psi after a second or two the pressure relief valve will pop and the pump will be permanently degraded.

Blocking the return line you probably broke the fuel pump or something similar. Dead heading a pump requires very careful pump control to regulate the pressure.