joshuaho96

Still the same deal, follow the diagnostic workflows posted earlier in the thread. If you can verify it's getting the right supply voltage and then verify that the signal outputs are sane then it's either a harness fault or your A-LSD control unit is damaged somehow.

Both the WGNC34 and BCNR33 have the FS5R30A as a transmission option. The Autech 260RS version is going to run the same sensor as a BCNR33. The RB25DET version does have a different speed sensor but the RPM/tach issue is unrelated. On R33s the tachometer comes from the ECU.

Doesn't take much, once the pump hits 120 psi after a second or two the pressure relief valve will pop and the pump will be permanently degraded.

Blocking the return line you probably broke the fuel pump or something similar. Dead heading a pump requires very careful pump control to regulate the pressure.

I'm pretty sure the internal parts are going to be identical but I have no idea where you're finding aftermarket parts for the M274 DE20 LA considering all the US parts stores I check don't list anything for a timing chain.

That really sucks. I was a little unsure about the tool set but checking the actual tool listed in the manual it’s the same general idea: I suspect the valve springs are part of the problem but it seems kind of shocking that you could so easily mar the bucket with the pliers like that and also damage the edge. It’s not like dealer techs are particularly careful either.

Start by searching for a boost leak/vacuum leak. That is the first port of call if your idle is weird.

It's not that hard. Many parts are sold direct through Nissan USA dealers now, just look up the part numbers through the parts catalog. The 260RS is entirely R33 GTR as far as drivetrain goes.

It's probably fine to set a conservative rev limit like 4000 RPM. On the street you really don't need more revs/power than that. That way if the sensor is broken and reporting a false 0 pressure signal you can still drive the car, but on track if it is accurate you're forced to calm down and investigate the issue instead of just hoping for the best and possibly spitting conrod bits all over the track.

It is possible to refurbish the cooler, in the US at least we have some oil cooler service companies that are mostly specialized in aviation and are FAA certified. Those oil coolers are usually huge, huge money because everything in aviation is. They flush the cooler under pressure and high temperature + ultrasonic it until they verify that the cooler no longer sheds debris.

Like I said earlier, it's smaller than stock. You can just look at the numbers and compressor map to know this. Technically the turbine will flow more due to higher trim but the compressor flows less air at the same pressure ratios.

The GT2560R is quite literally the factory 91F00 S15 turbo. So size appropriately from there.

Every time I reach under there I have accepted that I'm shredding my gloves. Too many hose clamps and other sharp bits.

He already asked this question earlier on a Facebook group, I have the same turbos and in 4th gear it should be at 10 psi around 3200 RPM. Uneven compression across the the cylinders is not a good sign, especially by that much. I would also question the cam timing, it's possible the cam centerlines were not cut correctly or some other issue with the aftermarket cams, supposedly Brian Crower has QC/QA issues.

https://www.ozwidetools.com.au/nissan-toyota-valve-lifter-bucket-shim-adjusting-t Not sure if there's better options but this is what I found with a quick search. I found the full R34 service manual here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/gtrusa/files/

Isn't the RB25 NEO a shim over bucket engine? In every shim over bucket engine I've seen you use a special service tool to depress the outer rim of the bucket and then use a magnet and a thin plastic spudger or something similar to pull the shims without undoing the cams precariously like you did. When I check the R34 service manual that's also what it depicts:

Yeah, it's very contextual. If you have to add a bunch of plumbing and general annoyance to "do it right" then I also wouldn't bother. On the RB26 venting directly to atmosphere means capping another port on that combo vaccum/coolant pipe under the plenum and figuring out how to keep track of a random hose/hose clamp 5+ years into the future. I have a mystery "firewall harness bolt" sitting in an organizer and it's taking up a non-trivial amount of my mental headspace trying to work out which of the five or so cars it could possibly have come from.

While true, it's just easier IMO to put the hose on the solenoid instead of pulling it off and then forgetting it somewhere.

Turbo pressure line is the green line from the plenum. Almost all diagrams online just vent to atmosphere which is why you're confused. This is fine on speed density systems but it will cause an unmetered air leak on MAF-based systems. Even if it's nominally ok you really don't want to make a habit of it because it just makes it harder to diagnose what's wrong in the future.

No, look at this diagram again: What you have drawn would put boost into port 1. The blue section is the intake before the turbos but after the MAFs.

The blue line is not boost. It is a vent to atmosphere. The green line going to the plenum is the boost source. My original diagram already shows what you need to cap. You only cap one pipe on the engine and then re-route the hose to go to the boost solenoid directly. The rest is unchanged.

Factory solenoid is 2 ports only as others have said. To make a two port solenoid work you must tie the wastegate line to the plenum (boost source). That way when the solenoid isn't working the engine just makes wastegate boost. Then when the solenoid activates it vents to atmosphere (blue line). When you vent to atmosphere the problem with a 2 port solenoid is two-fold. First, it's a boost leak which is annoying. Second, you really want the pressure experienced by the wastegate to be as low as possible. With a 2 port solenoid the wastegate line will always see a pressure higher than atmospheric because the turbo's boost is bleeding both to atmosphere and into the wastegate line. The 3 port splits the two states. Either you are sending boost pressure to the wastegate line (solenoid is off) or you are venting the wastegate line to atmosphere (solenoid is on).

No, not the manual transmissions. I have to check for the automatics but most likely instead of sending coolant under the car to the transmission oil heat exchanger they would send transmission oil lines going forward into the radiator instead.

Not sure I can make it any clearer than this. Notice how one of the hoses has a restrictor from the factory. Either cut it out, work it out with lubricant, or make a new length of hose without it.

whoops