joshuaho96

It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here.

I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:

It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.

We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.

I will say most technicians aren't the best, then they see a Skyline and it seems like their brains start oozing out of their ears. But actual good techs that knew what they were doing to begin with I don't see them having any issues with this car. And it doesn't attract that much attention. But if you were wondering what it's like to be an attractive woman, driving an RHD Skyline in the US is pretty much as close as it gets in terms of endless male attention. Random people will strike up conversations with you at gas stations, at mechanics, etc. List goes on. When I do alignments for any car I never leave it overnight. I bring it in same day and usually just mill around outside the shop because I can't be bothered to call a taxi to go somewhere for 30 minutes only to get another taxi back.

Not required but appreciated. Super Coppermix Twin even the non-competition model feels like the pedal is noticeably heavier than stock which was pretty well judged IMO. I'll be swapping in the Nismo operating cylinder soon to see how that feels. Personally I haven't felt anything that justifies replacing the damping loop, at least compared to more modern stuff where the clutch delay valve is actually quite noticeable.

Start by replacing the bushing and shifter cup. Two plastic pieces in the OEM shift mechanism that can wear out and cause these problems. It's like 15 USD from Amayama before shipping. You can replace with aftermarket brass bushings but personally I was fine with OEM. The stock shifter working properly doesn't feel like there's any real problems with it.

Throws on the FS5R30A in most Nissans of this era are actually quite short and direct compared to any remotely modern BMW with the S6-53 transmission. Those things have throws a mile long with rubbery vague everything. Synchro issues combined with a short shifter is just going to break everything even faster.

75W90 GL5 is fine. If you aren't sure about the type get one with LSD additive.

I have seen enough fire and brimstone from TSBs about roloc disks causing spun bearings that foreign object contamination is top of mind for me. For sufficiently large particles you might be right but usually it’s a distribution of debris and some of the larger particles can also break down and shed bits. If local shops report RTV contamination in a turbo is enough to wreck them I’m taking zero chances if I can help it.

It is fine. The bigger issue is people not being careful with their oil between breaking the seal and actually using it. I have seen literal pebbles of asphalt fall out of "clean oil" bottles. Always take great pains to avoid dropping the plastic foil bits into the oil. Try to avoid putting anything dirty into a "clean bottle" like vinyl hoses, etc. I pour my oil into a syringe, then cap it, then inject into the diff/transmission/etc instead of sucking it up with the hose now. I never drain "clean oil" from an engine and try to reuse it. List goes on. Don't care how clean it looks, the moment it goes into an engine even if it looks brand new I am not going to risk foreign debris getting into something.

I've worked around a crunchy/grindy gearbox for so long now that track instructors note how I have absolutely awful shifting habits. S L O W shifts and then blipping the throttle even on upshifts out of habit. My vote is R33 series 3 gearbox, those are still readily available and relatively cheap.

How fast are you doing the downshift? 4th gear was revised multiple times until 1998 to fix this issue. Synchro clips can fall out, synchros can wear. Most likely you're looking at a new transmission unfortunately. If you need to limp it until then double clutch downshifts into 4th.

Change the transmission fluid. I would try Motorcraft XT-M5-QS if you have it in your area for a reasonable price. Also, double check your clutch is fully disengaging. If you are not pushing the clutch pedal to the floor fully for every shift now is the time to start. Make sure the clutch is fully bled. The damper line requires two distinct bleed points to be purged of air or it will not disengage the clutch properly. If either hydraulic cylinders input or output are losing hydraulic pressure in their seals/leaking you can have problems like this. If you've ruled out everything else then the most likely explanation is the synchros are worn and you need to double clutch the shift or rebuild/replace the transmission. The transfer case is discontinued FYI so you may want to rebuild it while you're in there too. If the chain stretches past spec it can do a ton of damage.

Theoretically maybe, but if you capped it tightly it's fine.

Constant tension spring clamps need to be replaced if bent past a certain point. Once they turn to a certain age it's also an automatic replacement in my book. They get rusty and lose their tension. Also once hoses get to a certain age if you don't set the clamp exactly in the groove when disconnecting/reconnecting the hose it will almost certainly leak. As mentioned before you should also cap off the idle-up valve to make sure it's not sucking fluid or leaking air into the system. It's generally speaking less demotivating to figure out which change fixed your problem vs failing over and over until you locate the problem precisely.

You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.

Do you have any hose clamps that are not OEM? You must use constant tension clamps in the system or when it gets cold it can be a "vacuum leak" on the intake side of the pump. The other thing to think about is whether there is excessive restriction on the inlet side of the pump. If it's pulling too much vacuum the cavitation on the pump will generate air bubbles as well and also burn the fluid.

Maybe, but HKS' laughably expensive advanced heritage intake system (1.5M yen, listed by USA dealers at 15k USD) was sold out almost immediately and I'm not sure they ever re-opened orders for it. That's the kind of money that gets you a new block and head these days and people are spending it on benefits that boil down to "the twin turbos aren't quite as garbage as before".

Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.

It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.

The reservoir is pretty far from the pump, as others have said some of the pipe is also a rather janky power steering cooler. Find the leak. It might be the rack, might be a hose/pipe, etc.

Easy place to start is jack up the front end, turn steering wheel lock to lock and see if any air bubbles purge. If nothing happens it's probably time to pull the pump and inspect. It could also be a line is clogged for whatever reason and you need to isolate the part of the system that is blocked on the high pressure side causing the pump to be unhappy.

Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable.

I thought an engine that needs more ignition timing to make power is going to result in less power due to reduced knock margin? More time for the combustion to propagate -> more time for it to heat up the rest of the mix to detonation.