joshuaho96

Miraculously warps again despite every possible method of trying to ensure even torque on the bolts. I'm very tempted to blame the pressure plate at this point. Everything else as far as I can tell does not have any runout issues. I double-checked to make sure the friction discs are oriented correctly and the hub is properly seated on the friction discs.

Took it apart and somehow when everything is in pieces everything looks fine. Everything looks flat and true. Pressure plate is no longer warped.

This is brand new. It's possible the input shaft hung up on the pressure plate while trying to wrestle the transmission into position, I wasn't up at the front of the bellhousing to monitor exactly what happened.

The instructions mention making sure the pressure plate is even/flat but doesn't really mention the possible causes of the pressure plate being warped like this.

Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc. What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?

The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures.

I forget this is an au website, my GTR FS5R30A was 2200 AUD delivered but I did have to go to a warehouse near the port to pick it up myself.

VCAM doesn't really increase peak power, it just widens the powerband. So if you were giving up power with adjustable cam gears to get better low-end response yes in theory it "increases power" but otherwise not really. Stroker kit might put you in a more efficient region of the compressor map which will get you more power but at say 7000 rpm I'm not sure that much will change. The original HKS GT2530, -5s, and GTX2860R gen 2 are all roughly the same kind of turbo. If you want 600 horsepower those are the turbos you need. So 500 whp. Just expect to spend some quality time trying to figure out intake/exhaust piping. The "twin turbo" pipe is an obvious place to start. Make sure the actuator preload and all of that fun boring stuff is set up correctly. Throw a VCAM step 2 at it if you want good response, 2.8L stroker too. If you're not actually wedded to 500 whp all the time you can barely get there with -7s or Nismo R3 turbos, you just have to run E85 or race gas and run them hard:

It's used in the GT-R, GTST/GTT, and Z32 VG30 NA + TT versions. Nissan still makes them new, they're not cheap but they're not expensive either. Personally I would just get something direct-fit and be done with it but I'm not that handy at fabrication.

FS5R30A isn't exactly 1000 but it's close enough.

GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.

Stock ECU with no recirc valve is a bad, bad combination. Hot wire MAFs cannot deal with reversion, even if you don't vent to atmosphere it will shoot back out when the throttle snaps closed all the way out the compressor inlet and MAF before getting sucked back into the engine. It double-counts the air, the engine runs way too lean and stumbles if it doesn't die outright.

That sounds like it could be fueling or timing. Everything that you're describing is part of why it's taking me so long just to build a "base map" for a Haltech tune. I'm really trying to make everything behave as close to OEM as possible before I even connect the ECU and see how it runs against the real thing.

You are not going to do a direct drop-in. A complete front facing intake like the RB26 on an RB25 is a major change and transient fueling mapping which is already a bit of a guess will be completely off.

You will probably damage something with constant AWD engagement. Driveline binding is not good. Front RH is 47910-05U00, LH is 47911-05U00. Your best bet is probably finding a used sensor or seeing if another car has the same sensor but a different harness and making your own harness.

The viscosity is about right for Dexron III/Matic D.

There have been some recent formulation changes in oil to help reduce timing chain wear in GDI engines but there is truth to what mechanics say when they tell people to change their oil early and often. GDI contaminates the engine oil with ultrafine particulates that are relatively abrasive and won't get filtered out by the filter.

That's the general rule, but you probably don't want to see any dips at all in oil pressure all things considered.

EBC red stuff is only rated up to 500C. IMO a hybrid track/street pad is something like the Project Mu HC+ which is up to 800C. PFC 11 is rated up to something like 1100C and sure acts like it. Absolutely awful for street use but if you want to find the limits of stock brakes those are probably the pads to do it with.

Unless it's a proper track pad you're probably getting uneven pad deposits.

1 quart overfill is an easy place to start for track use, otherwise you probably need to do a baffled pan.

At very low RPM you should not be enabling DFCO, the risk the engine stalls is high and it will cause very jerky behavior like this.

Turns out the solution was penetrating oil + time, but also a 6 point box end wrench with a 15 inch extension. I managed to also get my impact to fit without a u-joint which delivered enough torque to do the trick, but it required a regular chrome socket which is super dangerous and probably not recommended. U-joint took up way too more torque seemingly even at fairly straight angles.

The block and head might be salvageable but everything else is trash. Pull the engine and don't run it without a proper tune next time. I've been driving around on the stock tune and aftermarket turbos, but I run wastegate boost and I checked the ECU's reported ignition timing to see if it's going to knock maps and that it's not running off the end of the load scales. Anything else is just not safe period.

Believe it or not a Milwaukee 2967-20 high torque with an impact u-joint didn't touch it. I was blown away.