joshuaho96

Shims are changing the Q factor of the resonant peaks in the brake system. Sometimes you might not have the right conditions to trigger those resonant peaks. If you can't fit the shims in the brake pads you need to push the pistons back into the caliper.

I would start by making sure that it isn't rod knock or low oil pressure. Until you diagnose where the noise is coming from you aren't going to figure this out.

If the cams are high lift and high duration it's possible swinging the cam can cause valve to piston contact. Only way to know for sure is to pull the timing cover and valve cover.

I genuinely find it hard to believe that you wouldn't have blowby issues just in a different form running comparable boost on pump gas. The pistons/cylinder walls don't know the difference when the engine is warmed up unless you're actually getting liquid fuel splashing down the cylinder walls. It's also possible depending on how your catch cans are hooked up you wouldn't see anything despite a lot of contamination during cold start. Factory PCV has two very different flow paths depending on vacuum vs boost. Mahle basically calls out the exact same thing MotoIQ did in this press release and suggests that their PVD coated piston rings and a finer bore finish will help with the issue: https://www.mahle.com/en/news-and-press/press-releases/mahle-piston-rings-for-flex-fuel-engines-512 I would focus on reducing P2W clearance to the absolute minimum necessary if you can open up the bottom end. I would not recommend going crazy with the gas porting of the compression ring. Too much pressure really accelerates ring wear which is maybe fine for a dedicated big money drag car that only needs to do a few passes on the runway before getting torn down for rebuild. Most likely the most you want to do is gas ports on the sides of the piston and even then only as much as you really need. The less P2W clearance you have the less of this you need to do to begin with. Obviously the danger here is if you actually need that clearance when you're making 780 whp then bad things will happen.

DBA 4000 is fine, as are PMu HC+. I wouldn't bother with a BBK unless you're taking it to the track. That's really where these cars need the BBK, they're heavy and don't have enough thermal capacity from the factory unlike a modern sporty car.

That just sounds like too much cylinder pressure making for more blowby. Is it still a problem at lower boost targets? Pretty much yes, but E85 fuel systems seem to be a lot more straightforward than doing WMI "correctly". I talked to Nostrum and they stopped trying to make WMI aftermarket kits due to the sheer cost involved.

I suspect the problem with E85 is mostly cold start related. If you're doing short trips and your engine has generous P2W clearance for high power it's going to be way worse. MotoIQ did a feature recently where they tore down an engine that was almost entirely fine but short trips + E85 caused some chaos with the piston rings and ringlands below the top compression ring: https://motoiq.com/e85-can-mess-up-your-engine/ One thing that would be very cool to see I think would be dual fuel feed where you only have E85 injection in parts of the map where the higher octane and cooler burn will help. I suspect this is too impractical though as Ford didn't seem to pursue any of that despite publishing this slide deck on it: https://www.energy.gov/eere/vehicles/articles/e85-optimized-engine Cold start E85 isn't great and it only gets worse as you up the ethanol content and drop the temps.

They are not direct bolt-on like -7s. Compare the two bolt pattern diagrams and just by shape alone they aren’t the same. I would not run a purely oil cooled turbo either, the CHRA is going to run hotter and put more heat into the oil which is already challenged in the RBs. If you’re going to change manifolds and all this other stuff to make turbos work why not just run a single EFR7163 with twin scroll? If you just want higher efficiency at high boost vs -7s you’ve basically described -9s.

Most engine rebuilds are not that comprehensive purely for cost and time reasons. Also when it isn’t your engine you really don’t care that much if it’s messed up or not. Hence why everyone says rebuilds “let the Nissan magic out”. The fact that your radiator is cold suggests you had a major cooling system failure. Within 5-10 minutes of driving it should’ve been too hot to touch with your bare hands. Coolant temp at the top of the radiator is going to be like 80C. Blocked thermostat or similar blockage in the system, water pump failure, etc can all cause these kinds of symptoms.

Curious to know what your dyno graph looks like vs this: The GTIII-SS is not going to make more power than a GT-SS/-9s on the same engine. Nobody who knows the specs of these turbos would promise this. Not even HKS’ own marketing suggests this. It is a smaller turbo than the GT-SS both compressor and turbine. As far as I can tell the GTIII-SS is about as capable as the -7s for power potential but because it’s smaller I have seen dyno charts that suggest with VCAM it might be able to spool significantly faster than -7s as a result. If you push the -7s hard with E85 I would not be surprised if they’re capable of more power than the GTIII-SS as the turbine is larger and the housing is a larger a/r. I recommend poking through the UP Garage/Fairlady Motors Facebook page for their dyno charts. I don’t know if everything they put out is “real” but my own R33 with the GTIII-SS turbos running the stock tune and stock everything else with wastegate boost almost perfectly tracked their stock tune stock turbo dyno run for boost vs RPM in 4th gear. It’s also worth mentioning these turbos are journal bearing which makes for a weird trade off between bearing drag and less rotating assembly inertia when comparing to stuff like the Nismo R3 and -7s. My personal opinion is that for a street RB26 one of those 300 kW options with VCAM is probably the way to go. If you’re doing the build with the bottom end apart you can also cut valve relief into the pistons to run either VCAM step 2 or make your own step 1B by removing the limiter block on the cam phaser. Single turbo for 300 kW would be an interesting project if the manifold was low mount, twin scroll, designed for something like an EFR7163. It’s so much work though that it may be easier to just spend some hilarious number on the HKS complete intake kit they’re working on instead of going single turbo to improve the piping situation.

Good point, there’s a whole class of failures I forgot about that can also cause this.

Transmission or engine mounts need to be replaced if you get bad shift shock even with a lot of clutch slip. The back of the transfer case is probably leaking where the hose connects. It’s a high pressure hydraulic system so leaks are inevitable with age. To be sure you need to clean it off and then repressurize the system while under the car.

Pretty sure front vs rear sump is a matter of what will actually package for your particular swap. And if I could decide either way I suspect rear sump is better as under acceleration the oil probably can be controlled more easily with a rear sump. Front sump once it escapes the windage tray it really isn’t going to drain back until you let off.

Pretty sure there are actual measures for this stuff instead of just feelings. CRI, lumens, white point, etc. Your bulb choice is probably fine but it may give up some brightness relative to HID bulbs that target maybe 5000k.

You sure it isn't a bad headlight switch? I need to look at the R32 wiring diagrams to be sure but I'm not sure those issues are as independent as they seem.

I forgot to mention you need to make sure you have no power in the harness before you attempt to measure any resistances unless you want to short out your multimeter and potentially damage both the multimeter and the control unit. Measure voltages of every pin relative to ground before you try to measure resistance. They need to all be 0V before you try probing resistance to ground.

Depends on which ones are monitored. Any monitored cat deleted will trigger a catalyst efficiency code. Also worth mentioning on modern cars the post-cat O2 is actually used for fuel control, when recovering from DFCO they look for the fuel to hit the post-cat O2 before they pull out enrichment. I personally refuse to ever work on decatted cars because the exhaust is so unpleasant to be around.

Presumably what they're actually trying to say is they deleted the catalytic converters and they want to disable the codes.

I would definitely try hard to get an aftermarket sensor to work if you can. A new OEM sensor is 1.6k USD which is absolutely insane pricing. Of course I would also recommend making 100% sure it's a dead g sensor to begin with.

Unplug the g sensor, use a multimeter in resistance mode and see which pin has zero resistance to the chassis. That will be a ground pin. Switch the multimeter to voltage and reference the other pins against the chassis. One pin will be 8V and the other should have no voltage as you haven't plugged it into the g sensor. If you can't find 8V anywhere then it's a power supply issue. Then plug it in and try to probe the backside of the harness pins if you can to see if you get 2.5V relative to ground.

Yes, that will work. But if you connect things like this you want to make sure the canister is also connected properly.

The front of the balance tube is the correct port to use for the fuel pressure regulator. It should only go to the FPR and nothing else.

I knew it was an R33 GTS25T because he posted the same exact question on a Facebook group but whenever possible I prefer to reply on something that isn't an information black hole.

It is basically a cut down version of the ATTESA ETS Pro system so yes it will be under the center console. The R34 Skyline manual throws all of the ATTESA/ABS/traction control diagnostics into the same section of the service manual.

The sensor is expensive so I recommend diagnosing first. Start by checking you have power to the sensor. If it turns out the 8V supply to the sensor is dead you're going to waste a lot of money to not fix your problem.