joshuaho96

The viscosity is about right for Dexron III/Matic D.

There have been some recent formulation changes in oil to help reduce timing chain wear in GDI engines but there is truth to what mechanics say when they tell people to change their oil early and often. GDI contaminates the engine oil with ultrafine particulates that are relatively abrasive and won't get filtered out by the filter.

That's the general rule, but you probably don't want to see any dips at all in oil pressure all things considered.

EBC red stuff is only rated up to 500C. IMO a hybrid track/street pad is something like the Project Mu HC+ which is up to 800C. PFC 11 is rated up to something like 1100C and sure acts like it. Absolutely awful for street use but if you want to find the limits of stock brakes those are probably the pads to do it with.

Unless it's a proper track pad you're probably getting uneven pad deposits.

1 quart overfill is an easy place to start for track use, otherwise you probably need to do a baffled pan.

At very low RPM you should not be enabling DFCO, the risk the engine stalls is high and it will cause very jerky behavior like this.

Turns out the solution was penetrating oil + time, but also a 6 point box end wrench with a 15 inch extension. I managed to also get my impact to fit without a u-joint which delivered enough torque to do the trick, but it required a regular chrome socket which is super dangerous and probably not recommended. U-joint took up way too more torque seemingly even at fairly straight angles.

The block and head might be salvageable but everything else is trash. Pull the engine and don't run it without a proper tune next time. I've been driving around on the stock tune and aftermarket turbos, but I run wastegate boost and I checked the ECU's reported ignition timing to see if it's going to knock maps and that it's not running off the end of the load scales. Anything else is just not safe period.

Believe it or not a Milwaukee 2967-20 high torque with an impact u-joint didn't touch it. I was blown away.

I figure a year isn't that long these days for a thread bump. How do I undo ridiculously tight rear driveshaft bolts? I bought a 6 point box end wrench and a dedicated wrench extender, I've tried heat + penetrating oil. What's the next step if all of that fails? Do I use a dremel to try and cut open the nut?

What about cases like the BMW S65/S85 where part of the rod bearing wear issue is crazy tight? Obviously the real solution is to just run slightly oversize bearing clearance vs OEM but I've also seen people suggest lower viscosity oil compared to the 10W60 Castrol TWS BMW specced from the factory.

Unplugging the wastegate solenoid should be wastegate pressure. Do not unplug the vacuum lines, leaving it at atmosphere will cause a big overboost event.

IMG_7438.HEICIMG_7436.HEICIMG_7435.HEIC Not sure why these images refuse to be uploaded in jpeg format but that's the way it goes. Basically runs just to the right of the brake lines, up and around the top side of the front of the fuel tank, makes a turn and heads back at the corner, then the last bit goes straight up near the wheel well into the trunk.

What specific car is this? I know for sure my R33 has a rubber sealing gasket on the cap. Not unusual to get a bit of seepage from it either.

If there's no rubber gasket you need a new cap. There should be a rubber gasket, depending on the car. If you are driving the car hard and the power steering is getting hot it will spit out of the reservoir. I have seen people tap the cap for a hose + overflow catch bottle placed somewhere that it will fit.

Oil pan gasket is 31397-41X04. Strainer assembly is 31728-4AX00. You can look at this yourself: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317 and https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/311 Checking online the actual picture of the OEM filter looks like this:

Even though technically best practice is to put it as close to the compressor outlet as possible on the RB26 the pressure source for the wastegates is well after the intercooler just before the ITBs.

Nissan Datascan 1 works well for logging this stuff. I use it all the time. It is a godsend compared to old Toyotas or other OBD1 cars that have zero ECU output over the diagnostic connector. It's super helpful to know what the ECU is actually seeing/commanding at any given moment.

As others have said it is technically controlled in the sense that the ECU turns on the fuel pump which also turns this thing on. Other than that there is no real control. So you could in theory do something stupid like repeatedly prime the pump without starting the engine and that would cause the shutter to close and the cold start idle to be too low. I believe the NEO series might have a thermostat controlled cold start valve instead but I've never been able to disassemble the idle valve. Not wrong, but the actual physical intake air regulator + idle valve isn't the issue for packaging in an RB26 so much as the giant common vacuum chamber hanging out under the intake plenum which is still needed for the brake booster + BOV vacuum lines if you're keeping it mostly stock. I've kind of made my peace with it.

O2 spacers are not going to help you here. The engine doesn't even have a post-cat O2 sensor. There is no silver bullet to fixing cars on the cheap other than giving up your own labor and time to do it.

Code 55 doesn't matter. The ECU can only detect a total MAF failure, partial failures or bad signal response curves are not detected. Get an OEM MAF, nothing else works for these cars. Do not "raise the O2 sensor out of the exhaust", whatever the hell that means.

That seems different from the one on the R33, which is almost identical to the coolant temp sensor used by the gauge. Basically just a rectangular large flat blade single terminal device.

Intake air regulator is not the same as AAC valve. Intake air regulator is only there to raise the idle airflow at cold start. After a certain amount of engine runtime the shutter should fully close and all idle airflow goes through the AAC valve instead.