Eric0

Hi Robbo! Always lovely hearing from you! You’ve helped me with a lot of issues! Yes, the 150A breaker is quality and I’ve never had it trip until recently with the idling issues. All alternator associated wiring was upgraded to sustain high current. I just had Jono go over my ECU and he was able to pin point the triggers being a reason why the stalls out. The ECU had a lot of trigger errors. Not sure why the breaker went off, or ECU shut off, maybe due to bad trigger feedback? I will resolve the trigger issue and see if the weird behavior persists.

Hello, this is definitely my favorite forum. I always manage to resolve my issues when I come here! However, I’m dealing with a problem I’m not sure how to address. I’m hoping to receive pointers or guide on my quest to solve this issue. Issue: On cold start, my swapped 180sx with an rb25det will crank and idle normally, but as soon as it starts warming up. There’s a subtle backfire, little pops if you will. At operating temperature, the idle begins to fluctuate up and down between 800-1200RPM. Eventually, only when fluctuating RPM it will drip my 150A breaker at the battery and the g4+ ecu will lose power and shut off. Or the ECU will shut off without dripping the 150A breaker and everything else stays on: radio, fuel pump, gauges, etc. Questions: 1. What may cause the ECU to turn off? 2. How to I measure voltage to the ECU? 3. Is it possible there is a short causing the current surge to drip the breaker and make the ecu behave erratic? 4. Anything I should check? Parts installed before problem began: • GTR R35 Coilpacks • Bosh donut knock sensors • PRP trigger kit • 270A alternator • LINK G4+ lambda CAN wideband sensor I did drive the car with all parts installed with one issue. The ECU had a wideband sensor overheated code, which I resolved by addding a 200uF 12V capacitor. Other than that, I didn’t deal with issues until this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi Robert! Always a pleasure to hear from you. Yes, I’ll have to set a meter to verify the voltage is around 6v. Then verify the charge is at 14.2v Other than figuring out the correct size resistor, is the wiring diagram correct for a functional charging system?

Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric

Hi everyone! I have had battery charging issues before which have been resolved using this wonderful forum and well... here I am again! Yay... So, from the beginning. I've been driving my car for about 2 months now and my dash-lights went out about a week ago. Then yesterday, I'm leaving school and the car decides it doesn't have enough charge to start. I replaced my battery thinking it was just old (4 years) and got a nice fresh yellow-top. That made me curious to look at my voltage gauge and it displayed 13.88v. As I drove the car, I noticed it dropped to 12.88 and stayed there. When the car is off: battery is 12.42v. When the car is on, battery is 12.42v. When the car is on the road, 12v-12.88v. I have driven the car for about 3 days and its consistently sitting around 12v-12.88 but doesn't go up to 14v. My voltage gauge shows 12.88v max voltage when driving. I checked the alternator stud and it showed 13.53.v charge. I checked the 75A fuse, and it showed 13.48v. I started the car and disconnected the terminals from the battery to measure the charge to the battery and it read 12.41v (I did this quickly as I know the battery acts as a buffer). So, the battery is being charged at 12.41v, the alternator is producing 13.53 volts, all fuses are good, I don't have a charge light but my dash board lights did go out before I started noticing this problem. I tested the exciter wire (off the alternator) when the car is off: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (red/white wire off alternator) I tested the big wire (off the alternator) when the car is on: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (big white wire off the connection) The way I tested the wires was by taking off the plug and measuring the pins while the car is running off the alternator. I replaced the alternator in 2020, so I believe it should be good. But I do have an oem sitting around that was tested good before. Do you guys have any suggestions?

It will mostly be a cruiser and occasional drag for fun on the weekends. I think you’ve convinced me! I’ll go with a GYX3076r .82 AR Twin scroll housing with twin scroll manifold. I’ll report back with results after I order all the parts, install them, and get it on the dyno. thank you all! All my questions have been answered

Oh man!! That is super funny to describe an exhaust manifold in that manner!! Haha, what’s a good laugh. Those are pricy! I’m seeing one for $1042. Plus $400 for the twin scroll housing, that puts me at 500- 800 more and I can just get a GTX3576r turbo and keep my current setup. Is a twin scroll setup worth it? GTX3076R .82AR Twin Scroll with Since twin scroll manifold ~1600 OR GTX3576r .62AR and keep my single scroll exhaust manifold ~1900 I will also be purchasing: 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor 76mm FMIC goal 500+ but hopefully 600hp, I’m currently at 400hp pump gas

I have heard about twin scroll setups but I have a question, does the exhaust manifold require two wastegates? theoretically, if I go with a twin scroll setup, I’m currently running a 44mm wastegate. Would I neede a second 44mm wastegate to go to the other side?

Hello, I’ve researched quite a few threads and read through page 72 and everyone prefers the gtx3576r over the 3076r. It produces more power with a smaller AR due to the bigger turbine. I also read that a .82 housing will be about as big a gtx3076r housing should be before it becomes laggy and unproductive. For the time being, I’ll upgrade to a .82 housing and get a front mount intercooler (mine is pretty small, 24x12x4.5). I was reading a forum and a guy said: “Im running the GTX30R with .82 Tial housing. Spool is very quick, awesome turbo for the street.” Then a dyno graph was posted. Do exhaust housing brands affect the flow of the turbo? Tial is famous for their v-band flanges, are they better to regular T3/T4? I’m currently planning for: .82 tial housing (thermo coating the housing) 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor 76mm FMIC (still need to do more research on this)

Hello Robbo_rb180, I do want a a relatively linear trend throughout my power-band, and it sounds like your build was just perfect! To this day, I’m still thoroughly impressed with your tuning ability! Hello GTSBoy, Would a better alternative is to go with another turbo than swapping my housing to a .94? The dyno is a typical high reading dyno. I’ll be sure to check out those threads to become better informed

My concern is getting too big of an AR. My .63 is suffocating, so a .94 seems promising. However, would it be too much to still have a esponsive turbo? Could I use a 40-50 shot of NOS to help the turbo spool quicker? I’m aiming for 600hp. My idea is to do flex fuel and increase turbo AR. I have a fully built engine making 400whp, but it’s not where I want it yet.

Hello! Thank you for your input. I think I’ll combine your suggestions and do: 525lph walbro fuel pump idx1300cc injectors turbosmart fuel regulator /filter continental sensor Additionally, I topped out at 400hp flat due to restricted air flow, so I’m increasing my .62 A/R turbo to a .94. Is this a good idea to get more airflow?

Well, I have found flex fuel fuel pumps and injectors, however, I don’t know much about brands. For example, I found an AEM flex fuel pump at 340lph. Is that a good fuel pump and enough lph? I currently have a 550 walbro and 740cc deatschwerks my tuner suggested 2 years ago. Part Number: 3C1450 Or a Bosh 040 in tank fuel pump. For injectors I have found: dynamic 1000cc fuel injectors or are my current injectors okay to keep? Are these good brands and ratings for 600hp, or does anyone have recommended parts? thank you!

Hello! I have decided to run a flex fuel setup on my RB25DET. The engine is fully built with forged internals and GTX3076R turbo. To increase HP, I’ve decided to change my fuel system to flex fuel to enable e85. However, I’m new to this e85 world and would like to be informed correctly for my setup. I’m currently pushing 400HP at 17PSI. What fuel pump should I run? what fuel injectors should I use? what sensor should I use for e85 and regular octane detection? thank you!

Okay! It’s been a few months and the car is back on the road! That accident I had completely threw the sixth beating out of line and was very quickly causing damage to the crank. it has been rebuilt again.