joshuaho96

Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i.

apparently people are still having trouble with this as well

Porous blocks are a known issue on something like a Porsche M96, it's not really something I've ever heard of on an RB26. It's possible what people thought was a "porous block" was really a cracked block that they just didn't spot the crack on.

I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.

Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.

R33 with RB26 seems to go off of learned voltage for idle. Seemed like whatever the baseline voltage was once ECU first gains power will be the idle voltage. With ignition on unplug/replugging the TPS would relearn the idle TPS voltage.

AA100 and AA110 are supposedly not cross listed, not sure what the differences are. Most likely you're better off rebuilding what you have unless the housing is trashed by debris circulating in the system or significant amounts of cavitation.

Presumably yes, but who knows what it'll take to collect on that.

On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.

Sure, but why assume that will be the case forever? And why assume you'll be able to do an oil change to swap back to a stock drain bolt before that happens? And does it even matter when I change the oil at fairly short intervals? Life can be funny sometimes and unexpected things can happen. Like breaking a collarbone so you can't do any work on your car for a few months but the oil change is due so you have to take it to somewhere and hope they don't do something stupid like stacking the new drain plug washer on top of the old one.

I'm not doubting it does something, there's clearly a reason why Nissan bothered with it on the transmission/diff/transfer case but it's more just the effort of finding a drain plug that isn't going to have some unexpected design problem that makes me lazy. For example even the Nismo branded ones here spec way less than the factory 20 N-m. They say only torque to 10 N-m. That is getting absolutely trashed the moment you take it to any mechanic who isn't familiar with the specific requirements and assumes it should be torqued to factory spec.

I have to say, I was briefly considering getting a magnetic drain plug but never could be bothered out of laziness/cheapness and now I'm very glad I didn't.

You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position.

What I don't understand here is that it mentions using a sealant. So either way you're ruining the inside of the tire and making a huge mess to clean up. Why not just do that, air it back up to spec, then take it all off and put it back in the car? Also, why not just include a plug kit that's not garbage?

https://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.4271/2005-01-3825 Heat causes positive pressure in the tank, a slight vacuum in the tank is normally caused by evap purge during normal driving. If the tank is cooled it can also cause a vacuum that pulls air into the system. The linked paper is quite interesting to learn the state of the art for evap fuel control, modern systems the tank is 100% sealed and the tank is reinforced to handle higher than normal pressure/vacuum. It only opens the vent/charcoal canister when you press the button to open the refuel door or when the engine is running. After some reading of systems like the W220 S-Class there's a check valve on the tank vent, but the primary reason it's there is because otherwise the intake manifold would be pulling vacuum on the tank: https://w220.wiki/EVAP_system There might be limited vacuum relief via the charcoal canister, but I don't know how sensitive the check valve is.

Somehow we've reenacted this video completely seriously:

Nistune is pretty easy if all you want to do is change the injectors. TIM + latency change will do it. But I am very skeptical your mechanic has actually diagnosed the issue. As others have said flow/function test your injectors.

I have personally seen a Tomei USA RB26 cam that didn't even fit the head. Kind of nuts to me that it was even possible for that to happen but such is life. There's two UP Garages in the US. One is a US branch of the Japanese company which sells things they brought over at tremendous markup. The other is University Place Garage/Fairlady Motors which is a shop best known for putting VCAM in RBs and trying to convince people to stop putting in 800hp of turbo on a 2.5L motor.

I saw some online elsewhere: https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/product_p/67393c.htm?gQT=2 No idea if it's real, how trustworthy they are, etc.

If you really don't want to touch anything you can try to trigger off the timing loop just to see if it's sparking semi-regularly. Don't trust it for actual timing measurements.

Pretty sure that's fine. 2 kg/cm^2 on the gauge is what I see on an RB26. Honestly, 10W60 doesn't seem to move the needle that much as far as oil pressure goes on a stock pump + sump except at cold start where it looks like it's pretty much pegging the oil pressure gauge.

Easy way to verify is just use an old style mechanical gauge and go for a drive. Then you can be 100% confident if the gauge reads one thing but your sensor reads something else. Just be super careful to not pinch the hose or anything, you don't want a bunch of hot engine oil spraying all over or a leak that empties your sump.

Also, at that point if the engine support stand slips I hope you can bench press 200+kg of RB26. Considering the oil pan has to be RTVed on as well which has like a 15 minute working time between the first drop coming out of the tube to fully torqued to spec I would probably never attempt pulling the oil pan unless the engine is on a proper stand.

If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?

Should work if it came out of a GTST.