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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. My R33 had standard turbos when the engine was pulled as a part of the chassis refresh. I didn't trust them though and never drove the car with them. The -7s are R34 N1 turbos, but R34 N1 turbo covers something like 3 distinct part numbers. The -7s I believe correspond to 14411-AA403. If you ask Nismo they believe that the -7 spec turbos have worse transient response if you're aiming for relatively low power, hence why they released the R3 turbo kit recently which is closer to the earlier AA401/AA402 turbos: https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html#a22 Their 450 PS claim includes a healthy derate from what the turbos are capable of pushed to the limit, it's also using an engine dyno:
  2. There is a built in restrictor on the GT2860/GT2859, but there's some asterisks there. If you run more oil pressure than stock, if you change the feed lines for some reason to a larger diameter, variables like that can require you to run an additional restrictor.
  3. At least part of the reason why I actually was ok with a journal bearing turbo over a ball bearing turbo despite the downsides was just to avoid any questions/complications regarding oil pressure and flow to the turbo. It is a minefield IMO. Some ball bearing turbos have integral oil restrictors in their oil feeds, some don't, sizing will vary as well depending on your particular engine, oil pressure at the inlet obviously also varies with engine RPM and oil temperature, oil viscosity, etc. If I ever went with a ball bearing turbo I would probably just get an oil pressure regulator for the feed just for the peace of mind.
  4. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/turbocharger-install-suit-nissan-skyline-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-5.html Genuine Nissan turbocharger gasket kit Genuine Nissan or Wurth Turbocharger turbine fasteners kit 8 x Turbocharger to manifold studs 8 x Turbocharger to manifold nuts 10 x Turbocharger turbine housing studs 10 x Turbocharger turbine housing nuts Exhaust manifold gaskets (optional) Genuine Nissan Cometic multi-layered steel (3-layer) HKS or Tomei multi-layered steel (3-layer) Genuine Nissan turbocharger oil drain hose & clamp kits (optional) HKS turbocharger oil feed banjo bolt w/built in oil restrictor & genuine Nissan crush washer (optional) The -7 and -9 turbos are both ball bearing turbos. -7s are 836026-5004S, -9s are 836026-5002S. If you get the -9s you will need to add actuators on top which are extra cost. You will need some method of controlling oil pressure supplied to the turbos, you may not have problems if you have the R34 setup as those came with ball bearing turbos from the factory but the R32 and R33 for sure will cause oil to be pushed out of the seals as those had journal bearing turbos which means much larger oil feeds. I haven't compared part numbers or anything like that to figure out whether the oil feeds are different across the generations, you can use the Nissan parts catalog to figure it out yourself. As for the difference, -7s are the following: Bearing: Dual Ball bearing Cooling: Oil & Water cooled bearings Compressor Inducer: 44.60 mm Exducer: 60.1 mm Trim: 55 A/R 0.42 Turbine Wheel: 53.90 mm Trim: 62 A/R: 0.64 Wastegated Turbine Flange: T25 with studs Turbine outlet: Unique "compact" 5-bolt pattern -9s have the following spec: Bearing: Ball bearing Cooling: Oil & Water cooled bearings Compressor Inducer: 44.5 mm Exducer: 59.4 mm Trim: 56 A/R 0.42 Turbine Wheel: 53.9 mm Trim: 62 A/R: 0.64 Wastegated Turbine Flange: T25 Turbine outlet: Unique "compact" 5-bolt pattern Do not try and order the 0.86 a/r turbine housing unless you enjoy turbo lag. The key point is to see that the -7s have a wider region of operation on the compressor but trade that with lower compressor efficiency. For example the -7 compressor will be able to operate at 7 lb/min flow and 1.5 pressure ratio (0.5 atm boost) but the -9s are going to be right on the surge line if you do that. What this translates to is the -7s will make less power, but they will be able to get the engine into boost sooner and will respond better to any breathing modifications done at low RPM like VCAM, longer intake runners, etc. The -7s and -9s are both roughly 400 hp to the wheel turbos though, not 500 whp like the -5s. And as others have said if you're chasing that much power you probably should think about going single turbo as well, that kind of power is well within the range of single turbos that are relatively well understood and with big power the problems inherent to the RB26's factory twin turbo setup become much more apparent like that pretzel-esque intake and exhaust piping is restrictive and leads to fun problems like turbo shuffle where they cyclically cause each other to go into compressor surge instead of boosting cleanly together. Sources: https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2012/09/garrett-gt28r-gt2860r-55-trim-310-hp.html https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/03/garrett-gt28r-gt2859r-56-trim-310-hp.html
  5. That's just how it goes these days, if it wasn't you it would almost certainly be someone else.
  6. I'm surprised Nissan has no plans to reproduce those weatherstrip retainers, they're trading hands at 90k yen easily.
  7. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/turbo-exhaust-c-21_22_25_256.html
  8. What coolant hoses in particular? There are a ton of coolant hoses and pipes in an R33 GT-R. Some of them are not that bad to get to. Some of them really, really suck to get to. Personally I am replacing every vacuum line and coolant line on the intake side of the engine in addition to the heater core lines and my Amayama order was something like 800 USD in hoses/clamps and that didn't include the 40 USD rear block heater fitting or 40 USD front coolant hose that has somehow become a Nismo Heritage part. Keep in mind that with a car this old unless every previous owner was religious about changing coolant on time it is all but guaranteed that multiple metal coolant pipes have significant rust and pitting. Either you can wet blast off the rust and fill the pits with epoxy/JB weld or source a new replacement and try some coolant hose grease on the barbs to try and discourage corrosion from forming in the future. The coolant pipe that goes from the heater core along the firewall to the intake side of the engine is 116 dollars from Amayama/Nissan Japan not including shipping/customs charges. It is also a huge pain to remove because of the dimensions of the part. Wrap all edges of it in something soft unless you enjoy leaving visible marks in the engine bay paint like I did. Also as others have said nobody is going to buy used hoses. Half of them will tear upon removal in a way that makes them unusable, even if the majority of the hose is intact you will almost certainly have the ends of the hose lose most of their inner lining as the corrosion has penetrated the rubber and will not come off cleanly. For the effort it takes to get to most of these hoses I cannot imagine even contemplating throwing a set of old hoses back on and praying they don't burst. Also, for anything under the intake manifold/plenum it is penny wise pound foolish to even bother with anything but OEM new molded hoses. It is a rats nest down there. Every single hose is molded to fit in a very specific position, trying to make do with generic hose will cost you more in time and wasted effort than the cost of the OEM part.
  9. Almost guaranteed I would grind into the board trying that and scrap it, maybe some people have steadier hands but I assume most people aren't that precise with a dremel. Someone will surely buy it just for the Mine's name, so better to just sell it and get a stock ECU which everyone seems to get rid of for a standalone these days.
  10. Electric water pumps still call for a thermostat don't they? I remember reading in the SAE journal papers on the 2ZR-FXE about their implementation of the EWP and that engine still has a thermostat and all that fun stuff.
  11. I'm fully expecting the HKS GTIII-SS to be super disappointing, but I'm curious to see if they're anywhere near as good as what some tuners claim they are.
  12. HKS GTIII-SS opinions are very mixed. If you talk to UP Garage they say it's the most responsive turbo they've tested. Their dyno charts will claim stuff like 10 psi boost by 2500 RPM, 16 psi by 3000 RPM, 400 awhp at 6800-7000 RPM, etc: But not even HKS' own marketing literature makes claims like that, usually it's much more conservative about showing the response of the turbo. More just a small step up over the GT-SS/-9s, not a huge leap in the mid-range like they found. Midori Seibi has also tried the GTIII-SS and peak torque happens closer to 4300 rpm, not ~3500 RPM like the above chart, their results are a lot closer to what I expect frankly: http://midoriseibi.co.jp/blog/4697 And of course most people are just super questionable on the idea of paying 3k USD or so for a glorified journal bearing turbo. HKS probably has seen sluggish sales of these turbos as well which is why they've started going back to ball bearing Garrett turbos. I did it and I'll try and find the reality of how these turbos are but that's going to take forever. As for the Tomei T550B nobody has published any dyno charts. Tomei's M7655 turbos that they sold before the T550B were horrible, worse than -7s in pretty much every way. As others have said I would not recommend removing BOVs, I have read of people's experiences with snapping turbo shafts due to the compressor surge when snapping the throttle shut. I doubt this would happen with anything modern but something to think about. I would avoid anything that risks metal fragments ending up in the engine unless you enjoy engine rebuilds.
  13. I doubt you can revert, removing the epoxy would probably damage the board beyond repair. I would just try and source an OEM ECU with the stock map.
  14. Is anyone out there that can competently say whether the Nitto sine drive pumps are better than the PRP spline drive gears in say a Tomei oil pump? What about Supertec's spline drive pump gears in a Tomei pump? What about the Spool Imports spline drive gears? What design features are relevant here? So far every time I've seen this question asked it just ends with a lot of ego, a lot of FUD, but not a lot of information. Seems like anyone who has spent the money to get the data has no interest in sharing it. We can repeat this exercise for basically every part out there. Even if the information is out there so many parts are not at all built for anything other than circuit or drag racing. Your average forged piston is just not at all suited for street use for example. They tend to require larger than stock piston to wall clearance and tend to not last very long as a result. The factory RB26 piston has a special oil cooling channel cast into the piston to help cool off the combustion chamber and eke out a bit more knock margin. I can name maybe one aftermarket piston that replicates this design feature and I have no idea if the ringpack/p2w clearance/ring tension/etc is what I would want if I ever had to open up the bottom end because this stuff is apparently some kind of trade secret judging by how every manufacturer makes you buy the product first if you want to get those specs. The trade-off space is huge and I don't think people on the balance are really doing their research. So if someone starts by asking about supporting modifications in a way that suggests they haven't even tried my answer is going to be reconsider whether it's even worth it to bother going down this path. As for whether Kinugawa turbos are worth it, just some Google will put up results like this that would scare me off from bothering: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/714884-kinugawa-td06sl2-20g.html 500 whp from these engines is totally possible, clearly at Cootamundra they're doing way, way more than that from RBs. But getting to 500 whp with the kind of reliability/durability that allowed my R33 to get to 280,000 km on the original engine still compression testing around 170 psi for all cylinders in addition to having good street manners is a real challenge.
  15. Priuses are great cars, the engineering in them is actually quite advanced and elegant. They're also dirt cheap to buy and dirt cheap to run. I recommend them to anyone who just needs basic transportation. Priuses aside, it's just so much easier and cheaper to enjoy an RB26 with conservative power goals. Just keeping these cars running properly with all-stock everything is challenging enough, throwing a ton of power and aftermarket modifications with potentially questionable engineering validation is more headache than I'm willing to deal with.
  16. So far every time I haven't just bought the part while it was available I've regretted it. I swear everyone and their mother is hoarding parts like they plan on scalping them in a year or two.
  17. While this is generally speaking good advice, it's also worth considering whether you will get into the endless cycle of more power for the feeling of more power. Philosophically I think it's a waste of time to try and build these cars for huge power when there are so many more platforms including the R35 that are just so much easier and cheaper to make power with. Hell, why even bother when a Model S Plaid needs no mods to set a 9.25 second quarter mile?
  18. As a general rule, my recommendation is always to look at the torque curve first and decide what you want there. Chasing power numbers as the goal instead of what happens to fall out at the end can easily end poorly.
  19. Talk to a body shop, they may be able to carefully bend the piece so it doesn't stick out quite so much. Keep in mind though that's easily an 800 USD part to find new if you're thinking of the part I'm thinking of.
  20. I got it working btw, I have no idea how normal thread sealant would have worked in this application but teflon tape worked great. Started two threads in to hopefully keep the coolant from getting filled with teflon tape particles and added enough at the meat of the thread to get it to tighten up nicely in the right orientation.
  21. I'm an idiot that gouged an o-ring groove with a pick so now I have to buy a new 250 USD oil filter housing, so any work that requires a delicate hand and a carefully considered plan of attack may be beyond me. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes.
  22. I can buy liquid thread sealant or whatever I need, but that's not the general point of the question. The point of the question is that it seems like I can't have the threads tight with the Y-pipe in the correct orientation. So am I supposed to just leave it somewhat loose and expect the sealant/teflon tape to keep it from backing out or am I supposed to actually put a ton of torque into the part to get it in the correct orientation and properly tight?
  23. OEM block fitting appears to have junk on the threads but that’s about it, most of it is black and looks like corrosion instead of sealant. I have some plumbing Teflon thread tape but I’m not sure that’s the right way to do this.
  24. I now have a new dilemma for this one. I notice that the new block fitting doesn't want to be tight in the threads in the orientation pictured. It genuinely feels like I'm going to break something if I try to turn it another full turn to be truly tight. Any ideas here?
  25. To add to this as some data, my BCNR33-005838 has the block RB26053761A on it. I suspect this engine is original as the car is pretty much stock before I got it. If we assume the VINs go upward in order and we assume no spare blocks are built for any reason then we get 53775, which is extremely close to what my block number actually ended up being.
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