joshuaho96

Factory wheel is a 17x7J supposedly so 225/50R17 is probably the actual tire size.

There’s a bunch of Japanese ROM solutions around. It may be built into the MCU but the advantage of japan still living in the stone ages for this stuff is you absolutely can ask them to give you a ROM chip that is stock but with the limiter removed.

If it is the ECU speed limiter you can chip the ECU to get rid of it.

Are you sure it’s not slipping on the rollers? All Japanese market cars have a 180 kph limiter from the factory.

Pulling fuel from one cylinder isn't as bad as running cams that generate idle lope but it'll still kind of be all over the place. Transient fuel modeling is usually one of the hardest parts to get right. I don't think it'll hurt your engine but it will probably be less efficient than a smooth idle. Don't use ignition cut rotational idle, raw fuel in a cylinder really is not good for things.

Doesn't the Focus RS and the Acura RL with SH-AWD do this? 10% is a bit much and it doesn't make that much sense in this application but there are crazier things out there.

R32 and R33 are completely different chassis. The underbody splash cover is not really an engine-specific part, it's chassis/trim level dependent.

I would retest to be sure. A low battery or letting one cylinder get more compression strokes will affect results noticeably. If a retest shows those numbers are real I would leakdown test and borescope the low cylinders to figure out what happened. The air leak location will tell you. If it’s crankcase/PCV you probably need to pull the engine. It’s possible to get low overall pressure for whatever reason but the relative proportion of 3 and 6 to the others is cause for concern.

Good to hear people outside the US know just how awful those things are.

The Tomei ARMS turbos they started worth have never been great. The M7655 is terrible for lag compared to -7s or the GTIII-SS.

I have seen a "solution" to the problems I described which is to just reduce the prechamber volume. Of course if you take it to the logical conclusion you've just accomplished nothing at that point and you're back to a normal spark plug. Maserati has accomplished passive TJI with the Nettuno V6 engine so it's not impossible to make it work in the real world, it's just more annoying than the marketing literature implies. I agree it seems like HKS was really stretching with that idea, if they do figure it out I expect it'll be close to 2030 by the point you can actually buy something and it will be laughably expensive. They already want well north of 50k USD for a fairly basic 2.8L long block and the octopus intake they engineered for the stock twins was 15k USD so I can't imagine the asking price to be south of 80-100k USD for this hypothetical complete Advanced Heritage engine.

The passive TJI stuff is supposedly possible to retrofit to existing cylinder heads, the challenge seems to be everything around that. Maserati sidestepped all the idle control/cold start issues with passive TJI by just adding a normal spark plug on the side of the combustion chamber. Mahle claims they've solved all that in their papers but who knows. There's also the other problem of actually exploiting the benefits of it. Can the RB26 even handle diesel-esque peak cylinder pressure? Is there even room in such a cramped engine bay for systems like cooled EGR? When I look at the packaging I'm pretty skeptical.

Yet another thread bump because I want to talk about this: The general gist that this guy found for a MK7 Golf GTI is that by adding a venturi from a 2022 Tiguan he managed to pull crankcase vacuum far more reliably under boost which effectively stopped oil consumption on his engine in track conditions. An earlier video details how that venturi works: Basically one port is atmospheric vent, one port goes to a boost source, and the last port goes to the crankcase vent. There's a lot of discussion on here about scavenge pumps and all that fun stuff, why not try to replicate that by pulling some energy off the compressor? There is one catch though and that is that the PCV diaphragm on these cars appears to completely block off airflow from the intake when there is enough crankcase vacuum. This contrasts with the RBs where there is basically nothing stopping vacuum from the intake from sucking a big gulp of oil if it gets into the crankcase vent.

https://www.nismo.co.jp/heritage_parts/repair.html Nismo offers an ATTESA actuator block rebuild service, but have you replaced the accumulator on the ATTESA block yet? That can cause a code 18.

https://www.3si.org/threads/crusty-white-balls-on-spark-plugs.666041/ If you see little bits of aluminum on the plugs that's a detonation sign. They don't need to melt for there to be a problem. Coil harnesses disintegrating is normal. Welcome to owning these cars. A new one will last decades done right. Run a compression test and see if they're all ok. If so just keep running it.

Looks like a bit of passivated corrosion. Try to clean it gently with solvent and shop towels. Then oil it again before first crank. Then pull the oil pressure sensor and feed pressurized oil into the engine. Then unplug that and install a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge and pull the EFI fuse. Crank the engine and verify it registers oil pressure. Let it sit for a few minutes and check sump level and adjust accordingly. Crank again without the EFI fuse. Then plug it back in and see how it goes. I would probably only run it for one heat cycle or less before draining the sump and oil filter to look for signs of mistakes. Stupid shit can break engines within 1000 miles so don't treat a rebuilt engine like OEM new break-in procedure.

It only takes one lean-out on boost to trash a piston engine. With rotary engines it's more like a single knock event.

I have a feeling you may have damaged the cat if you still have one. Pull the downpipe/front pipe off and make sure it's not blocked. FPR induced lean-out is not good. Also, pull the plugs and make sure they're in good shape. Borescope the cylinders if you have one. Compression test the engine.

OEM paint code says 732 Black. So I suspect someone has replaced the VIN plate at some point. A lot of people out there make very convincing replicas of the original build plates now.

There is a 3.545 from the R34 GTR. Not sure anyone should actually use it but hey.

I will bet if you've never replaced your damper the one on the car is absolutely wrecked and you should think about replacing it regardless of how much power you want to make.

Sure, but modern GDI turbo can get deep into the boost as early as 1800 rpm in the case of the pre-LCI S55B30. It's actually absurd how little turbo lag there is because they can scavenge whatever air the cylinder can't aspirate and use it to spool the turbine anyways without having raw fuel shoot-through. And it holds power out to 7500 rpm. I don't think it's actually worth it to add the complexity of a crank driven or 48V compressor in this scenario. Garrett e-turbo style solutions might be worth it though as you can use the turbine as an exhaust energy recovery mechanism and basically eliminate the wastegate in most scenarios. I still wish someone could just do all the work to put an EFR7163 twin scroll on an RB26 so I don't actually need to apply any thought, just write the check and install pieces. Unfortunately that's just not what sells, anybody going single turbo is going to want something designed for at least an EFR8374. The one result I've seen of a single EFR7163 on an RB26 has been pretty disappointing but I'm unclear on why it seemed so mediocre.

S58s are like what, 25 years of development ahead of the RB26? And the S55/S58 change up the turbo arrangement quite substantially from the N54 which requires both turbo dumps to do a pretty suboptimal turn. Seemingly the solution to the I6 twin turbo issue is to actually just have the turbos staggered with a different exhaust manifold design for each turbo, that way the intake and exhaust piping isn't fighting each other quite so badly.

I was looking at the rear diff section again and found the actual formal bleed procedure, if you don't have a Consult it boils down to cycling the pump with the ATTESA air bleed connector and opening the bleeder on the diff:

Put some UV dye in the oil and see where it's coming from. It could be a lot of things like a valve cover leak at a hard to spot corner.