joshuaho96

It's surprising you say this because talking to someone who headed Toyota's CARB certification efforts and was now working for Mercedes doing similar things he said he never had a case where he found that it was necessary to reduce ignition timing for that reason. Knock limits yes, but never because of in-cylinder emissions profile. I'm guessing between EGR and the number of TWCs modern cars stack in series it's not really a problem. I really doubt the NEO is that big a difference. You get what, EV6 injectors, coil on plug, a cold start valve that works off coolant temp instead of basically fixed time constant valve, and... I really can't think of anything else. Not like Toyota where they shipped first gen GDI in the 2JZ-FSE. Something I didn't realize is that Japan didn't revise their emissions standards for light duty passenger cars between 1978 and 2000. I'm guessing there's a bit of phase-in, but that explains why 2002 killed a bunch of JDM sports cars off all at once. FD3S, A80, S15, Z32, R34, Z15A GTO all died off for that reason. And explains how all these cars got away with no EGR or much of anything other than a TWC and charcoal canister for the longest time.

I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel. If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping.

On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.

Foreign debris, physical shock, boost leak, could be anything honestly. The danger in taking all the timing out of a tune/hitting the R&R corner is that even if the engine doesn't detonate your turbo is taking a lot of abuse from high EGT. Also, even if nothing goes wrong it is a journal bearing that is spinning at 100k RPM on boost. Eventually it goes through enough cold start/pressure cycles to wear it out.

This is less than what I pay and garage storage is required still but my age is considered too young for the value of vehicle. I'll probably renegotiate insurance on this car soon considering how little I drive it.

The exact direct fit seat belts are R33-specific. Should be able to get it from any Nissan dealer.

From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.

HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:

No, with a twin plate clutch flywheels and clutch pressure plate/friction disks go together. Only clutch where that isn't the case is the Uniclutch but they currently don't make a pull version for the Getrag R34, just some other cars. Personally the flywheel is as light as I'd want it to be. It already drops revs faster than I want to shift normally and I blip the throttle again to rev match on upshifts.

Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.

Yes, the problem is the supply chain hasn't standardized on metric which makes it more expensive to source metric hardware. They're all mail order at this point. Fastenal is cheap but you can't exactly rock up to a fulfillment warehouse as a random D2C. Paying 13 USD in shipping for 3 nuts doesn't really make sense. McMaster-Carr and similar companies are all in a similar sort of boat. If you like gambling on mystery hardware Amazon is cheap too but you're going to be buying 25 of whatever screw you need. So Lowes/Home Depot ends up being the way to go if you really only need small quantities of hardware for odd jobs like trying to rebuild a power steering pump that calls for an m6x1.0 screw to pop out the flow control valve.

30 mL or something. I hate the lack of standardization on metric too, leads to annoying situations like not being able to find an M12x1.25 nut at the hardware store unless I special order or find the one store in a 30 km radius that actually stocks a non-trivial quantity of the thing so there's at least an 80% chance they haven't all been stolen.

I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out. Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.

Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.

It is not a dual mass flywheel, so you will get some gear noise on a BNR34 unless you deviate from the OEM fluid spec and run a thick gear oil like what Nismo recommended for a while. Unfortunately I have never weighed the flywheel by itself prior to installation but it is not that light. It's probably an 8-9 kg flywheel. OEM BNR34 dual mass flywheel is like 14 kg which is kind of hilariously heavy.

I mean sure, but locally I've seen people actually break oil pump gears, especially narrow drive even without hitting the rev limiter. And that was decades ago, locals here are buying cars that have lived that life the whole time and are finding out what happens when these cars have been run hard and fixed on the cheap for 25-30 years. I do think most of the failures I've seen are cases where people "let the nissan out of it" doing improper rebuild but sometimes people really do just get unlucky after 30 years and their "60,000 km grade 4B" car decides it wants to be naturally aspirated now.

I subscribe to the M539 restorations approach to car maintenance and modification, maybe not as necessary on these cars but I have seen what underthinking does. Genuinely the number of trashed RBs I've seen locally is shocking. A local owner is trying to sell a new in box cylinder head for 5.5k USD, 05Us are being sold for 6.5k USD, 24Us are going for 15k USD. I'd rather not risk having to go down that route because I didn't want to spend what, 1400 USD rebuilding turbos? Call it a flat 2000 USD including a ball bearing CHRA.

My R33 never ran more than stock boost but it was unclear whether the turbos would last. Maybe OP's car is less of a question mark but for my stock turbos had over 175k km on them + 25 years of use. That's a very long time to hope nobody has ever accidentally put physical shock through them, no debris in the exhaust gas stream, no boost leaks that could cause the compressor to spin faster than it otherwise should, no oil coking in the journals, no wear scars for any reason, etc. You could pull the turbos and disassemble to inspect/overhaul as needed but for that kind of effort you may as well replace the ceramic turbine with something that can take a bit more abuse no matter what you find in there. Stock boost ceramic turbos really don't make that much power either.

I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.

Maybe I have Stockholm syndrome but working on an M2 isn't that hard. Getting parts cheaply and quickly is hard, but getting parts same day isn't necessarily hard if you're willing to pay way too much for it at local dealers. There's a lot going on, you need to have a build of ISTA on a laptop and the right cable, if you don't have the mindset of "do it exactly right or not at all" you will probably start seeing cascading failures. Skylines are a little more tolerant in that regard. The car doesn't potentially trash itself if you bought the wrong oil filter like a BMW would. Or trash the entire cylinder head and potentially spin a bearing because someone took the anti-drainback valve out of the plastic oil filter cap. An M2 will also do just fine on track, zero oil starvation concerns, factory brakes are great if you change the pads for a high temp compound + flush with track-ready fluid.

I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.

I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.

But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.

If you haven't replaced the OEM turbos, replace them sooner than later. I have seen recent pictures of what OEM ceramic turbo failure can do in an RB26 and it will make a 10k AUD budget look like a joke. Single vs twins have been done to death on this forum. If your turbos haven't fallen apart you can probably send yours off to Hypergear for rebuild. The journal bearing option will have more turbo lag but it's a good bit cheaper. I would probably go for ball bearing CHRA but keep in mind ball bearing turbos are more particular about oil pressure/flow.

Kaizo Industries put a VIN plate over where the Nissan plate would go. It was part of how they broke the law and attracted feds going after them.