joshuaho96

Put some UV dye in the oil and see where it's coming from. It could be a lot of things like a valve cover leak at a hard to spot corner.

You can get a lot more power out of any given turbo if you use E85 or a similar high octane fuel: https://www.facebook.com/Dynosty/videos/528591662283860/ The other thing is a lot of people don't set up HKS VCAM correctly. If you only change cam timing with respect to engine RPM you're missing out on a lot of potential gain in response. Part throttle cam advance causes some internal EGR which means more steady state exhaust mass flow through the turbine. Unfortunately because HKS VCAM is only intake side you can't pull tricks like advancing exhaust cam timing dramatically to get a much stronger exhaust blowdown: https://www.enginelabs.com/news/spooling-up-tuning-dohc-variable-valve-timing-for-boost/

The Mustang dyno quoted there is an AWD dyno so there is substantial power loss from that. They also tend to read low compared to other dynos. This is also on ~97 RON (92 AKI) premium fuel.

Probably, especially if the stock damper is 25+ years old. I don't think it will do much for the oil pump which mostly dies to cavitation but the rest of the engine will appreciate it.

I don't really believe in the idea that everything has to be HKS in a car. HKS is a class leader in some regards (nobody else makes a VVT retrofit period), sometimes they do subtly different designs (crank trigger might have some advantages vs others on the market?), sometimes I have no idea what they're doing and it seems very phoned in like their mushroom pod filters. For what it's worth this is what a US-based tuner reports using step 1 VCAM with the GTIII-SS turbos: This is old news at this point but hopefully some day I'll be able to test this for myself and see if I can get numbers remotely resembling what they reported there.

Not sure it counts as interior or not but the R33 passenger side rubber seals on the window track are super discontinued. The driver side is still in stock but I'd love to see some solution for the passenger side.

You are not removing the oil pump without pulling the engine. Just isn't happening. It is theoretically possible, in practice a 700 pound boat anchor is going to be hanging over your head and the slightest mistake will severely injure you. I have done very annoying jobs that should require pulling the engine but I didn't. I get the mental block when it comes to pulling engines, especially because it requires a ton of shop space most people don't have. This is one case where you need to pull the engine.

If you want extra oil pump gear strength nitto also has their sine drive profile.

The factory service manual mentions you can bleed the system by attaching a vacuum pump to the cap and activating the maintenance bleed mode, over about 20 minutes all air bubbles should get vacuumed out of the system: You can also try just activating the maintenance bleed mode as described in the manual and then crack open the bleed valves in the system. I haven't actively looked for the bleeder on the diff and pump but supposedly it's in there.

It doesn't really do that much for for throttle response. I drove the car before/after, either way the turbo lag at 2500 RPM is a ton. If you want to reduce turbo lag start with VCAM. The cylinder 6 issue is real and the Nismo manifold helps with it but it is a huge pain to install. Most people will tell you to just pull the engine because that's how little clearance there is. And as others have said you can just run more fuel in the rear cylinders. It's not ideal but it does mostly fix the issue. Keep in mind at part throttle you need to adjust your throttles to be absolutely dead on according to the factory service manual or you will have weird uneven airflow issues anyways. If you want aftermarket turbos for relatively minor power gains your options go something like Garrett GT2860R-7 (836026-5004S) or HKS GTIII-SS these days. The GT2859R-9 (836026-5002S) is supposedly discontinued, as are the Nismo R3 turbos. I don't recommend the GT2860R-5 (836026-5005S) or the GTX2860R gen 2 (849894-5001S) or frankly the HKS GTIII-2530 or GTIII-RS. The factory twin turbo setup has a lot of weird issues and the more power you make the more noticeable they become (rear turbo running hotter, compressor shuffle at part throttle because the turbos are fighting each other, generally terrible turbo lag). If you paid for the HKS advanced heritage intake that is worth keeping but I would not bother with their green mushroom pods. It might flow more air yes but the filters are barely capable of catching rocks much less anything more than that. They disintegrate easily and require frequent replacement and oiling. Just stick to a stock intake if you still have it. I would definitely start thinking about aftermarket ECU tuning now and not later. Start when the car is in a known good state so you aren't stuck figuring out whether it's the ECU or the engine. Then you can do whatever you want with decats and all that fun stuff.

Same reservoir but you need to also bleed the hydraulic fluid from the top of the rear diff. There are multiple bleed points in the system, you need to bleed all of them for it to work as intended. You can run the pump to bleed the system the same way as is described in the ATTESA bleed guides.

All g sensors should indicate 2.5V at rest. Throttle signal should be about 0.4V at rest and go up to 4V at WOT coming from the ECU. ECU speed signal should be roughly what the vehicle speed is in reality when everything isn't slipping. Verify the wheel speed sensors are outputting sane, clean signals. Make sure the g sensor is 2.5V at rest and reacts a little if you wobble it back and forth. Don't go crazy with it, nothing more than about 1g in any direction. Do not drop the sensor or you will damage it. Make sure all sensor signals don't drop out or show signs of excessive noise. Make sure your brake light switch is not broken. You can also crack open the control unit and check the board for signs of tin whiskers (unlikely on a leaded solder board but hey), burned contacts, cold joints, popped capacitors, dead diodes, dead individual transistors, etc. Testing this is a lot easier if you can just ask the ATTESA controller what it sees. You need a proper Consult scan tool or something that supports the Consult 1/2 protocols for the ABS/ATTESA controller to do that though. The data output from the Consult port would look like this:

Not sure what spliced in means but almost certainly it's a sensor input making the ATTESA controller think that it needs to engage the transfer case. Test all the inputs and make sure they're sane values before moving on.

The ride truly never ends with these cars does it

HKS tried with the advanced heritage intake system, I'd be curious to see to what extent it resolves the problems in real world testing: https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product_db/intake/db/33150 The MSRP on that thing is obscene but that's just a price model thing, you could make most of it out of rubber, plastic, and maybe some cast aluminum to reduce the cost in a mass produced variant. The other issue is the turbos are fighting each other for the same space basically. The S55/S58 manages to package twin turbos a lot better because one goes below the other. Still a bunch of pipe spaghetti but it's not like an RB where the front turbo dump is crammed up against the rear turbo compressor. The N54 put the two turbos butt to butt but that wasn't much better, it made the downpipes do a 90 degree turn basically right after leaving the turbine still. I really need to get around to doing VCAM + various other modifications to my R33 but a lot of life has gotten in the way so I've left the car alone thus far. The GTIII-SS for now accomplishes the three main things I really want which is not being a 30 year old ceramic turbo threatening to destroy the engine at any moment, not shifting the power curve too substantially to higher RPM compared to other bolt-on twin turbo options, and not giving up any reliability relative to a totally stock car. Is it possible to achieve OEM levels of reliability and driveability on an RB26 single turbo? Is it possible to make a single turbo setup optimized for passing CA emissions and to suit small twin scroll turbos that top out somewhere around 300 kW? The answer to those questions is almost certainly yes, I just don't have the time/money/knowledge to make all those things happen.

https://www.gabednconfused.com/r33-gtr-factory-service-manual

Is that how that works? When I think about it the idle condition is where intake vacuum is high so you'll get a lot of internal EGR, which is what is causing idle lope.

This is the engineer's way of thinking about it. Unstable idle means low combustion stability, means misfires which means wasted fuel and an engine that will stall easily. But a lot of people hear it and think 1960s cammed muscle cars, so people want to replicate that sound in a modern car. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

You probably can get to it without dropping the diff, it's just going to require some quality time. Wear good thick gloves and a long sleeved shirt that you don't mind getting ruined.

Worst part is Turner Motorsport includes those in their HPFP kit. The HPFP is OEM but the sensors are AIC Germany, which is some brand I've never heard of but almost certainly means made in China on the cheap. It's possible to get quality out of China but anybody that wants to go cheap and nasty isn't going to bother with the work that it takes to make it happen.

Yep, new OEM sensors on both high pressure side and low pressure side fixed the no-start. By the time I swapped the sensors the low pressure sensor had gone from reading incorrectly to permanently stuck at open circuit. High pressure sensor was still reading a value but pulled from the rail instead of reading 0-2 bar it was still reading 13 bar of pressure. I've never had a firsthand story of how aftermarket questionable alibaba parts could cause very real issues until now, and it really reiterates the importance of not getting tempted to save 50-60 USD when the risk is potentially having to do the whole job again and have your daily driver non-functional for weeks waiting on parts and tools and free time/expertise to diagnose the issue.

I helped a coworker with his 335i recently, bit of a threadjack but I was absolutely shocked at how much carbon buildup those engines get in the intake valves looking at it firsthand. Then I was shocked again at how his no-start issue was caused by "Bav Auto"/AIC Germany fuel pressure sensors. Fixing both those issues got his car running well again.

Depends on what the interaction is with FPCM and the FPR. If the FPCM can take the higher amp draw (up to 16.5A when stalled) and the pump can handle being run at the voltages provided by the FPCM + it doesn't lose voltage at full speed then it can be a drop-in replacement. If you can't use the FPCM then most likely running the pump at 100% speed will cause the stock FPR to be overwhelmed as tylink mentions and you will need a new FPR.

The one you linked is probably fine for Skylines which have relatively short pinch weld depth. The flat rubber top is not factory approved by Nissan. Most people doing something wrong doesn't make it right. Also because people keep doing things the quick and dirty way I've increasingly become very distrustful of mechanics and DIY almost everything. The vertical section of the pinch weld is to locate the pad, not to hold the weight of the car: This is from a Toyota Kluger service manual, same thing. I can find a million unibody cars with pinch welds where the FSM will point this stuff out. They technically say it's ok to use a flat rubber block, but only for a lift that very few people have (quickjack style with a long plate running the full wheelbase of the car).

You have to email them, they really should but I've never been able to figure it out as they don't show the full list of adapter caps available anymore. CTA also has the Nitto fitting which can be adapted to Motive bleeders but requires the Nitto to BSP adapter, then a BSP to NPT adapter which is pretty hard to come by.