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joshuaho96

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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. Most hardlines are available new still. But unless they're rusted to the point of needing replacement you can just zinc or cadmium plate them to keep them going for decades to come. Regarding the turbo drains it really depends. Braided lines might be better if it's a straighter path than OEM but I would not assume braided teflon lines will never leak. Teflon is a very durable material but you can still abrade, erode, or otherwise compromise its integrity. The return hoses on the bright side are not that hard to access relative to a full turbo removal so if things go wrong you can always put it back to stock. You can very easily drive yourself insane analyzing every little change, or maybe that's just me.
  2. For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
  3. Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.
  4. Yeah I would try and diagnose this in situ before thinking about pulling the motor. Those hoses have quite a sharp bend and like anything rubber after 25-30 years it all needs replacement. Budget 1000 USD for hoses alone at this point, there are a metric ton of them in this engine and they're all probably in need of replacement if they haven't been touched yet and you want to replace all the rubber with OEM/Nismo Heritage. Once you know the scale of what needs to be done you can debate whether to pull the motor or not.
  5. Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
  6. Verify it's going into each of the 4 gears in normal acceleration, make sure the torque converter locks up over ~65-70 kph or so at low throttle opening. If you ease into the throttle at those speeds eventually you should get a "gear" between 3rd unlocked and 4th locked. It should downshift eventually if you floor it at 65 kph too. Get some Matic D ATF and drain the pan, check for signs of sadness in fluid and drain plug magnet. Top off to the correct level afterwards. If the transmission is worth saving you can drop the pan on a second drain and change the filter while you're at it. These are not complicated transmissions, at least compared to modern stuff.
  7. I have seen this happen in cases like the R33 GTR where they eliminated the ATTESA actuator rod retaining clip to save 5 cents. Parts diagram references it, the actual part doesn't. Also if you try and look up the specific retaining clip on an R33 GTR it resolves to nothing. But it exists on R32 GTRs as I discovered a week or two ago.
  8. Yeah, this is more stuff like transmission/clutch R&R. Intake manifold R&R. It's not super complicated, but each step matters and you need to be careful and patient. I have heard stories for example of people not figuring out the super coppermix twin plate orientation and getting it wrong on assembly. Removing a cylinder head and putting it back in once it's machined isn't that hard, following torque sequence to install some cams isn't that hard either, but somehow I've seen a lot go wrong between here and there. Scraping off all gasket material isn't that hard either, but I've seen shops ruin heads by using a roloc disk that was too aggressive.
  9. Weirdly I see a flat washer on aftermarket pumps but as you said it doesn't seem like new OEM pumps have it. EPC doesn't break out the regulator as a separate component either. I'm guessing if the pump came that way it's safe to use as-is.
  10. A local that insisted he learned from the best in Australia for RB builds managed to machine a head past the point of saving according to another shop and it dropped a valve too. Ghosted the customer and as far as I know nothing really happened to him. A coworker also recently told a story about owning a Porsche in Germany and running into issues with a dealer tech leaving scratches, oil stains, and missing parts all over his car. I'm not a master tech by any means but at this point I've seen enough expensive mistakes that I'd rather make them myself.
  11. Apparently very early R33s had R12, after that they switched to R134a. So if it's all OEM R134a and the parts still exist it might be worth keeping it stock. But from a quick search the condenser is really, really expensive if it's still available. Hard to say which actually ends up cheaper here, if you end up needing a new compressor the FPG kit is probably cheaper.
  12. People think it's a waste of space, ugly, etc, generally associate "emissions control equipment" with "bad". These OBD1 vacuum-only systems I'm not a huge fan because I think they don't go far enough. They're wasting some of the fuel captured because they start purging as soon as the engine pulls vacuum. Later OBD1/OBD2 they put an electric purge valve on them to vent only when closed loop is active so the ECU will trim some fuel out. Even later OBD2 with zero evaporative loss the tank is 100% sealed from atmosphere until you run the engine or press the refuel door release. The tank has to take much higher vacuum/pressure spec but you never deal with saturating the charcoal canister and losing some fuel that way. The fuel also lasts as long as it would in a 100% airtight container which is nice when you're dealing with modern E10 pump gas.
  13. If your luck is anything like mine, what happens is in the process of pulling hoses to get access to the one leak you create many more leaks because every o-ring was on the verge of failing and the strain of pulling it apart caused it to fail. Sometimes life is simple, sometimes you pay twice trying to save once. For the R33 you can still get most AC components from Nissan, I use nissan epc data or amayama to look up the part numbers and then search for the cheapest/most practical way of sourcing from there.
  14. The dirty secret is there is nothing recyclable about the plastic bag or old plastic bottles either. Our local trash collection explicitly calls it out as hazmat in both cases. Oil-soaked rags + paper towels too. Oil-soaked cardboard is also not recyclable. The most common case of oil-soaked paper like that is pizza boxes, which are explicitly compost-only from the oil. To my knowledge hazmat oil contaminated plastic the only solution is either landfill or "thermal recycling". Most plastics in my experience there is slow permeation of the oil it's holding into the container so it's very challenging to get it 100% clean.
  15. AFAIK on most Toyotas that half moon is usually an aluminum piece that you seal with RTV so you just source the valve cover gasket but I kind of doubt that you'll ever save money buying an aftermarket piece in this scenario.
  16. The OEM lug wrench you really need to put a lot of body weight on it to hit 75-80 ft-lbs compared to a torque wrench where I can knock it out no problem as a desk jockey that never hits the gym. The torque limit is your own body.
  17. Seeing just how complicated you're making this is kind of terrifying to me. I would not want this level of hoses running all around the engine. I also am a fan of draining back to sump by default.
  18. Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
  19. Either you specced the wrong fluid or your clutch is not releasing properly for whatever reason.
  20. Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while: At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees.
  21. Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot.
  22. Yeah I've personally seen the RB26 pull 30 degrees of ignition timing out of the base timing map if the ECU detects a cold start, it nearly starts misfiring because of it around 2000 rpm and it feels like the engine has no power. I'm just surprised that modern OEM control strategies are actually trading off efficiency for in-cylinder emissions. I would expect something like aggressive EGR dilution + tumble generation valve use to improve EGR tolerance to reduce in-cylinder NOx + HC from crevice volume while also reducing throttling loss vs pulling out some timing if not knock-limited.
  23. Right, but that's in-cylinder, there's the interaction between that and the TWC which complicates things. Pulling out timing to reduce NOx is a strategy I saw in transitional emissions vehicles like stuff from 1974 or so. The two inlet runner system is interesting but I'm not sure it makes a huge difference as far as emissions goes, is it a tumble valve? I've seen stuff like that even in cars from the late 80s.
  24. https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/03/itb-vs-single-throttle-individual.html From the math here and some real world dyno comparisons against a 102mm throttle I doubt it’s worth the effort and expense.
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