joshuaho96

I was just going off what that post mentioned, which is the early AA100 was still plastic compressor, then all later revisions were alloy. It's good to know that the risk is lower on the single turbos but still it's definitely a day-ruining event if a turbo lets go.

RB25DET vs DET NEO have different turbos. This thread talks about the differences: Personally I would not run these turbos without replacing both the nylon compressor and ceramic turbine. It will increase turbo lag but that is fine if it means there's no risk it sends ceramic shards backwards from internal EGR or a bunch of compressor chunks through your intake tract.

You had the same idea I did. If that doesn't do it start measuring pressure at various points in the system, the pressure drops at each point will tell you where the restriction is. Could be an FPR too. If you've hardwired your fuel pump to run full blast all the time the FPR is almost certainly your problem at idle. Nissan used the FPCM to slow down the pump at idle.

I have E85 locally, the US loves subsidizing corn and corn ethanol. Also we've banned basically every other octane booster at this point so ethanol is the only thing that you can get for a reasonable price. I plan on doing flex fuel eventually.

Basically everything you described + the annoyance of keeping all of that stuff working is bad enough that as much as I'm in love with the idea I can't bring myself to actually do it.

I was thinking more about modifying the ROM or circuitry on the gauge cluster instead.

Is there a better way to do this? If people have figured out how to modify the odometer on the cluster module surely it must also be possible to figure out how to recalibrate how it correlates output shaft speed on the transmission to speed/distance.

The sound you're hearing is the shift interlock device. You have to press the brake to shift out of park. There is a stop lamp switch in addition to the little rubber grommet. Test the switch and see if it's working as intended. A new one is pretty cheap.

It's DBW. Easiest place to start is make sure the throttle body isn't clogged up too badly. Long term fuel trims will also give some idea of what's going on.

The specs for this stuff is in the factory service manual. If the source for the play is in the rack itself then you will need to remove it to adjust the preload. Steering play can have many sources. Make sure it is actually the rack before you go through the effort of removing it.

Vinyl vacuum line caps should work. Even if you manage to get it in before emptying the reservoir I would do a full flush including ABS bleed afterwards.

Whiteline is probably fine for the subframe, technically I believe Nismo USA is selling solid aluminum subframe bushings these days which is a step harsher than that. Again, this is a question of what you care about. If you want "purity" then I'm pretty sure Nismo is actually the only option for "OEM", looking at the OEM parts catalog they don't break out the subframe bushing as a separate part. 55442-RS580 should be what you're looking for.

Also, checking the front turbo is not that useful. Usually the rear turbo is first to blow up.

I really don't get it anymore, even accounting for currency fluctuations Amayama is often more expensive than US dealers for the same parts these days.

You sure it wasn't NATS or something?

Nissan USA dealers, PartsForNissans, etc. Amayama is also an option. Nismo parts you can try RHDJapan, Trust Kikaku, or Nengun.

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

This is terrifying stuff. I put a Nismo collector for that sweet 2% power boost on and I've been arguing with some local owners for days that it's fine because after the CA emissions compliance cats the TP index never gets to 88. Even with the HKS turbos at 0.9 kg/cm^2 wastegate boost.

There is no code 56 for the CEL. EC-23 in the R34 factory service manual shows that there are no codes past 55.

I thought the whole point of the twin turbos was that they didn't have a single twin scroll turbo readily available when it was designed in the 80s and Nissan was too broke in the 90s to contemplate actually fixing anything wrong with the RB26 anyways. But hey, for a cool 1.6 million JPY you can buy the HKS intake which supposedly fixes most of the problems: https://www.hks-power.co.jp/product_db/intake/db/70029-AN001_EN.pdf

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/body/969/96935/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/body/969/96935/ The shifter surround appears to interchange, but you don't really need one anyways on a GTST. You can just put a double DIN in there without a relocation.

Good luck. I stared at the GTST OEM sensor/bracket and then the Midori sensor and couldn't see why it wouldn't work but I have never torn apart the R33 center storage to see how it all fits up.

To do it right means pulling apart the whole sensor and rebuilding it. It's much easier to just buy an R33 GTR digital g-sensor and only use the one plug that fits. The sensors are almost identical anyways, it looks like the bracket is pretty much the same between the R33 GTR and GTST with A-LSD. I would probably go for the Midori Seibi one because it looks to have a cleaner design and I don't really need a bunch of DIP switches to change the g-sensor response from stock. If you really insist on trying to fix the sensors you have you can look at this for reference: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2012/02/digital-g-sensor-for-nissan-skyline-gt.html You can see the pendulum mechanism I'm talking about. It's attached to the circuit board underneath with ribbon cables. To fully refurbish the ones you have you probably need to replace the springs with whatever the factory spec was, then replace the pots as well or at least clean them of any debris. I don't know if it's actually designed to make this simple, it's not unusual for repairs of this nature to be a big pain in the neck which is why the FSM just says toss the sensor and order a new one.

Have you inspected the turbos at all? I had a friend with the same issue on a different car. In the end it was turbo failure. Check the compressor and turbine blades carefully for damage, they have to be extremely close to the housing in order to actually generate boost/spin a compressor and any little thing can damage that "seal" and cause your symptoms. If you have one turbo functioning properly and the other isn't it can cause similar behavior as one turbo effectively turns into a boost leak because they're joined together at the twin turbo pipe.

It was not tuned properly, the turbos also blew up. So he just has some possibly rebuildable cores basically. For some reason there was RTV on the compressor housing instead of the correct OEM gasket. Details like that are the reason why I told him he needed to tear down the whole engine and do a nut and bolt rebuild the right way. He never showed me the center section gaskets but anyone willing to cut corners like that probably also put RTV on those gaskets or just used RTV which is probably why his turbos blew up to begin with followed by his bottom-end. I recommend no matter what the provenance of a car to always be skeptical and when you do have a chance verify things were done the right way. Someone willing to cut corners almost never stops at the small things.