joshuaho96

I agree it's subjective, I'm likely going to have to see if a local owner with a Nismo twin plate or some other twin plate is willing to let me try parking lot maneuvering with their car to really feel confident. But it sounds like for now that's probably the way I'm going. The Nismo clutch is full face organic + copper blend as far as I can tell with a sprung hub and a relatively low spec pressure plate. That's a combination of things that seems like it should stack the deck in its favor. Twin plate is the only hang-up honestly, I've never driven one so I don't know if it's too grabby for me and my poor driving skill. Kind of interesting, but I really don't feel like doing a conversion to push clutch.

Getting back to the actual subject though the Xtreme twin plate I'm a little skeptical of. Higher clamp force + requires a pull to push clutch conversion. I'm not super sensitive to cost but the ATS clutch is 700 USD more and another 35% extra clamp force over the Nismo. With how weak the yen is the Xtreme organic twin plate is actually substantially more expensive than either the Nismo or ATS clutches as well, although I haven't priced everything out after shipping.

Most likely if the speedo works fine it's the driver circuit in the cluster that takes the VSS signal and converts it into a neater format for the ECU/HICAS/etc. Pull your gauge cluster out and clean the board with contact cleaner, all that fun stuff. Look for corrosion, signs of burned contacts, failed solder joints, etc.

May as well buy an R35 at that point

Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings. This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.

Putting aside the part where they are in fact interchangeable you need to know that Nissan part numbers don't work the way you think they work. The first half of the part number just means it's the same kind of part (fuel tank). The second half is what determines the specifics of that part. For example R32 GTR specific parts or something that originated with an R32 GTR is often 05U00. R33 GTR specific parts are often 24U00.

I remember test driving this car at Odaiba. All the controls are very light so it's good for commuting. I don't think a 1.2L turbo would make sense in the US though, you would be constantly deep in the boost in highway cruising.

The timestamps I see over the Consult port is about 16 Hz. It's not as fast as I would like but that's much faster than ~1 Hz.

My R33 GTR gets 11.2-11.7 L/100km doing steady state 120 km/h. Is something wrong? I suspect I have an evap leak somewhere because the garage still smells like hydrocarbon fumes after a while and the O2 sensor still appears to respond pretty slowly, about a second or so peak to peak when I log via NDS1.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6pukBHrOKB/?img_index=1 Has someone f**ked with the jam nut on the failsafe solenoid? Stuff like this is never supposed to be touched, if it does the transfer case can lock up solid and never bleed properly. Nobody knows what the correct setting is for stuff like that from the factory.

This is exactly what I was thinking, I just wasn't expecting whatever that hackjob was. Skyline owners never disappoint.

Check your FPCM. What happens if you bypass it? The ECU will bypass it during prime + initial start, then the FPCM kicks in and slows the pump down.

Honestly, can't be worse than Skyline ownership which is also a mess considering the age of these things. The 335i at least you can still get parts easily.

This must be my problem, I can smell fuel in the driver rear wheel well sometimes.

In the US people definitely take photos. It's a lot of attention. I personally don't care but I drive pretty cautiously.

The best part is the aluminum replacements are also junk with a ton of casting flash threatening to break off. Only safe solution is toss and buy OEM new if in doubt, if the cage ever comes off BMW says to replace the whole part instead of putting it back together. Also only use the right oil filter wrench and only snug it down, never attempt to actually torque it once the cap is fully threaded into the housing.

I don't own one but at this point I've done more than my fair share of work on one.

That crappy plastic cage is the difference between an engine that works and one that mysteriously has half the lifters fail, cam journals scored, and VANOS mechanically stuck faults because all the oil pressure leaked out of the stupid cam ledge bearings. Also, the difference between the right oil filter and the wrong one. I don't know why BMW is like this. Their engines are incredibly sensitive to the slightest thing being wrong.

Sure, but you could just pull enough timing out of the map to make it idle at whatever RPM you want. Or close the throttle until it's about to bind to compensate for vacuum leaks.That's kind of why I'm not a fan of this approach, especially if OP isn't experienced at tuning these things.

Sure, but personally I'm a big fan of when you have a problem, don't make it harder to diagnose by changing more variables all at once.

You definitely have a big problem if with the adjustment screw closed up you're idling at 1200 rpm. Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? No throttle shaft seal leaks? Nobody has messed with the throttle body set screws? I would love to see what Consult reports when your engine is idling that high.

HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.

I don't know if this is accurate. The EPC places the EPS control unit somewhere in the engine bay or somewhere in the interior near the firewall, presumably because the things it's controlling mostly live up in the front of the car unlike HICAS which has a whole steering rack on the rear axle to handle. @D.phantom The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars: You can probe the pins on the diagnostic connector directly to read the EPS solenoid voltage as far as I can tell following the flow chart.

I don't have the full R32 factory service manual so I don't really know how to help you here but there is an EPS control module that modulates the EPS solenoid, marked C or 28500 in this diagram. The R32 GTR service manual floating around mentions it should be about 4.4-6.6V between the diagnostic connector and solenoid valve at 0 kph, then 1.5-2.2V at 60 mph, it also has the no HICAS equipped variant connector mentioned:

Pull the codes. I have seen a code 21 for primary ignition circuit fault on these conversions for some reason, I'm not sure exactly how the ECU decides this either.