joshuaho96

Good to know I wasn't the only one suspicious, the meandering wall of text in the shape of a correct answer but ultimately wrong seemed like it was a spambot.

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum.

Depends on how you want to do it, you could either keep a running tally of the things you need to replace as you dig through it or just replace everything wholesale. I ended up doing the latter when I pulled apart my intake manifold and oil cooler/oil filter housing down to the hose clamps which were all replaced with factory constant tension spring clamps. I spent probably 100 USD alone on those stupid spring clamps. There is no factory provision for a fuel pressure sensor, you could put one after the fuel filter but before the rail though. That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors. I'm pretty sure that's the point that you're supposed to use when following factory service manual procedures for testing fuel pressure anyways.

Probably holds it together. The wing isn't adjustable.

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

~35,000 km is about right for PSS/street-oriented summer tires. Personally for track tires I would probably run something like the Ventus RS4s purely out of concern for the limits of a wet sump engine.

For -5s? Absolutely.

I forgot about that, I saw it on an R32 and found it strange but didn't think harder about it.

The main way to tell between an R33 RB26 and an early R32 RB26 is going to be minor stuff. The main difference will be the crankshaft which isn't visible without removing the oil pump. There's also differences in the knock sensor harness, but the actual knock sensors should interchange even if the factory knock sensor was not the same. Heater core hoses are different as well. For example the back of the block has a coolant pipe that is 05U07 for the R32 but 24U00 for the R33. The pipe that goes between the back and front of the block for the heater core and oil cooler is 05U15 for the R32 but 24U00 for the R33. The R32 also has a sensor (?) of some kind on the firewall in the heater core lines. Probably the easiest way for the untrained eye is to just look at the block serial number. It won't tell you exactly but it's close enough.

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

Have you pulled codes yet? Someone local to me had a no-start situation and they were confident it was a CAS issue until I checked the codes and found code 21/ignition primary open circuit.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb26-injector-resistor-bypass/ Not sure of the exact connector source but Wiring Specialties has figured it out so it's definitely not impossible. If you do figure it out let us know, I'm curious to know where to get this stuff without paying hilarious amounts for individual plugs.

You should make sure that your ECU plugs are rated for USB levels of insert/disconnect cycles or you're going to need new connectors before long. Many connectors out there are only rated for say 50-100 cycles before they need replacement.

As with anything there is no replacement for going and actually seeing what the car actually is instead of what some seller dreamed up. Lots of UK cars that are supposedly immaculate but all the attention is on the exterior paint and nothing for the underbody. These cars are crazy expensive to fix between Nissan doubling the price of R chassis parts every year and the rarity of competent mechanics for these cars. They aren't that complicated but most mechanics seemingly have none of the equipment or experience to fix OBD1 cars anymore.

Bosch 0 280 158 040 is fine. They are the most common high flow injector sold for RB26s these days. If you want ID injectors for the bling factor feel free but if anything the 040 injector is "better" as it retains the diffuser plate. ID1050x has a 5 degree pencil spray pattern which will send most of the fuel down the intake wall divider between the two valves. The 040 has a 30 degree cone which will maybe reduce wall wetting a little bit which will make the tuner's job easier. If you need more than 980 cc/min though your only option with the standard Bosch injectors is the 0 280 158 333 which flows 1462 cc/min. After that the highest flow injectors are natural gas which are not E85 tolerant. Walbro is probably the way to go, try to get one with integral check valve if you can. I don't think the R32 GTR tank needs the secondary outlet to pump fuel from the other half of the tank but check to be sure. One thing I've always wondered is what exactly the "high flowing" did to the -7s. Entirely possible their results are not at all representative as a result. Housing and rotating assembly are engineered together.

I can't give you a scenario where twins outperform a single but a local owner went from GT-SS turbos to GTX3576R gen 2 and the results were nowhere near what Motive claimed, which was the same power as -7s down low but 400+ kW up top with a GTX3582R. He lost power between 2000 and ~4200 rpm but gained power from there. I have no idea why their results were so different but it definitely was not due to cheaping out on parts. If anyone does have a good explanation I'm curious to know. Even if you want to significantly increase power there's still a lot of room for improvement in the factory piping. HKS just showed off a seemingly near-final redesign of the factory intake piping from airbox to intercooler inlet that resolves a lot of the basic issues with the OEM piping:

I think I've said this before but the R35 really is stuck between a rock and a hard place. Nissan barely sells any of them, even back in the early years they didn't sell very well. Their competition is the 911 which sells far better and it also helps that models like the GT2/GT3 reliably sell every unit they build despite going for huge money. To keep up with the Corvette and all the other performance ICE cars will require a huge investment on Nissan's part that they probably can't afford to be making right now and I doubt they can keep using a glorified FM platform design to make it happen. It probably needs to be mid engine. With how long development cycles are they probably need to either go hybrid like the NSX or possibly even full electric to have the kind of world-beating performance people expect from the GTR name. The R35 is now "analog" by modern standards but for me at least the V6 and DCT doesn't really make for an interesting experience and I don't really think it makes sense for Nissan to turn the GTR name into one that lives on nostalgia anyways, an I6 manual GTR today would be substantially slower than the R35. Porsche makes both kinds of cars with the 911 though, you can buy the 911 GT3 with a manual and have something nominally more engaging or you can go for all out performance with the GT2 which is DCT-only.

If you already bought it I guess you're wedded to it but I would never recommend running a short runner intake like the Greddy/Freddy/etc

It's "wrong" by the standard of what the latest engines are doing. 10 years ago your setup was best practice. Most likely your engine builder/tuner just sticks to what they know and haven't bothered to try anything different since then. I am also still not sold on single turbos being the "correct" setup for all situations. Admittedly -5s are about the power level where they don't make sense anymore.

Reverse bleeding probably won't work as well as one would hope, you need absolutely zero air around the threads of the bleeder and at the entrance into the bleed nipple as well or else you're going to be pumping air bubbles through the lines. I don't know if the ABS module needs to have the solenoids activated as well, I figure if the older R32 could just be bled passively you probably can just use the motor + pressure in the master cylinder to flush bubbles out with sufficient flow velocity. Really is a shame more cars don't have something like the Toyota Prius' invalid mode which triggers the ABS pump for you when you press the brake pedal for thorough bleeding without a scan tool. ABS pumps also flow a ton of fluid compared to just simple pressure at the master cylinder. Also, if you really want to pay for a scan tool supposedly the Launch X431 scan tool supports the Skylines if you get the 14 pin OBD1 adapter, I would try it myself but my car is hundreds of miles away from me at the moment:

I believe Consult-2 also works. Unfortunately Nissan did not implement a way to manually run the ABS motor by jumping a wire in the diagnostic connector or put a bleeder on the module block itself. Someone else can jump in if I read the FSM wrong but there is only mention of how to clear codes without a scan tool. So if you don't have a scan tool you need to somehow jump pin 5 on the ABS actuator module to ground without disrupting the other connections with a momentary switch:

Yes, you test after the fuel filter.

Wasn’t there just a Motive video where it demonstrated that shorter runners means a higher turbo threshold? I would not make any change that reduces the length of the intake runners. Personally I’m curious to know how the Plazmaman upper plenum intake compares with the Rajab take on the design which reduces plenum volume but increases runner length.

High-flowing a stock turbo correctly means you machine the housings to have the correct profile and have a proper match between turbine and compressor. This means there isn't excessive backpressure causing internal EGR at high RPM. This may be the "rumor" you've heard about. It won't necessarily blow up an engine with proper tuning but it will reduce how much power you can make. Proper balancing and machining is also critical. Chinese turbos like Mamba/Pulsar/etc are all generally speaking going to have larger gaps between the compressor/turbine wheel and the housing because they aren't confident in their machining and process control which means worse performance even if the general profile and everything else is supposed to be comparable. Greddy I have a hard time saying for sure but Tomei turbos are generally unpopular because they tended to make for laggy engines. They worked just fine otherwise but from what I can tell there were better options for the money. Hypergear is the way to go for that reason IMO. Only reason why I didn't get a Hypergear turbo was to try the HKS GTIII-SS.