joshuaho96

G sensors do not affect the pump. Entirely separate issues. Most likely your hydraulic unit has some fault. Is your nitrogen accumulator reasonably new? If it’s original you probably need to replace it along with whatever else is broken.

I don’t think they’re known for junk but they aren’t particularly standouts as far as I know.

There are a bunch of ZF8HP swap kits out there for the RB26. A ZF6 is mostly the same thing mechanically as far as I can tell: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1569774

I was thinking of putting a nipple into the factory rubber hose or the aftermarket metal pipe after the merge pipe but yes regardless it's kind of annoying and impractical. I also really don't think it should be a problem if the factory boost solenoid was working prior to this.

Isn't a G30-770 going to be better for response? It's going to have to be run much harder and I'd probably use a turbo speed sensor but if response is the goal a T4 divided housing G30-770 seems like it would be right-sized for the job.

This is just a part of learning how to modify a car. 1. When it comes from the plenum (before the throttle bodies) it accounts for the losses through the intake piping. Personally I do not think this is your problem. 2. I think the suggestion is to basically completely re-do the vacuum lines instead of using the factory setup. So basically you would plumb the turbo pressure line just after the twin turbo merge pipe. Then you would disconnect the factory hoses going into the wastegate and put in your own hose with a tee piece to join it all together. I kind of find it hard to believe that the factory plumbing won't work for what sounds like a mostly normal configuration. As others have said you should post clear, well-lit pictures showing what you've done. It may also be that your issue is wiring, a bad solenoid, your MAC valve actually has different port numbering/orientation than the normal ones online, etc.

Curious to know if anyone has taken calipers to something like a 040 980cc injector to measure the diameter of the extended tip. Is it under 8.5mm or so?

Hypertune has had a lot of complaints here recently regarding customer service, I'd probably pass unless you want to deal with that.

Still the same deal, follow the diagnostic workflows posted earlier in the thread. If you can verify it's getting the right supply voltage and then verify that the signal outputs are sane then it's either a harness fault or your A-LSD control unit is damaged somehow.

Both the WGNC34 and BCNR33 have the FS5R30A as a transmission option. The Autech 260RS version is going to run the same sensor as a BCNR33. The RB25DET version does have a different speed sensor but the RPM/tach issue is unrelated. On R33s the tachometer comes from the ECU.

Doesn't take much, once the pump hits 120 psi after a second or two the pressure relief valve will pop and the pump will be permanently degraded.

Blocking the return line you probably broke the fuel pump or something similar. Dead heading a pump requires very careful pump control to regulate the pressure.

I'm pretty sure the internal parts are going to be identical but I have no idea where you're finding aftermarket parts for the M274 DE20 LA considering all the US parts stores I check don't list anything for a timing chain.

That really sucks. I was a little unsure about the tool set but checking the actual tool listed in the manual it’s the same general idea: I suspect the valve springs are part of the problem but it seems kind of shocking that you could so easily mar the bucket with the pliers like that and also damage the edge. It’s not like dealer techs are particularly careful either.

Start by searching for a boost leak/vacuum leak. That is the first port of call if your idle is weird.

It's not that hard. Many parts are sold direct through Nissan USA dealers now, just look up the part numbers through the parts catalog. The 260RS is entirely R33 GTR as far as drivetrain goes.

It's probably fine to set a conservative rev limit like 4000 RPM. On the street you really don't need more revs/power than that. That way if the sensor is broken and reporting a false 0 pressure signal you can still drive the car, but on track if it is accurate you're forced to calm down and investigate the issue instead of just hoping for the best and possibly spitting conrod bits all over the track.

It is possible to refurbish the cooler, in the US at least we have some oil cooler service companies that are mostly specialized in aviation and are FAA certified. Those oil coolers are usually huge, huge money because everything in aviation is. They flush the cooler under pressure and high temperature + ultrasonic it until they verify that the cooler no longer sheds debris.

Like I said earlier, it's smaller than stock. You can just look at the numbers and compressor map to know this. Technically the turbine will flow more due to higher trim but the compressor flows less air at the same pressure ratios.

The GT2560R is quite literally the factory 91F00 S15 turbo. So size appropriately from there.

Every time I reach under there I have accepted that I'm shredding my gloves. Too many hose clamps and other sharp bits.

He already asked this question earlier on a Facebook group, I have the same turbos and in 4th gear it should be at 10 psi around 3200 RPM. Uneven compression across the the cylinders is not a good sign, especially by that much. I would also question the cam timing, it's possible the cam centerlines were not cut correctly or some other issue with the aftermarket cams, supposedly Brian Crower has QC/QA issues.

https://www.ozwidetools.com.au/nissan-toyota-valve-lifter-bucket-shim-adjusting-t Not sure if there's better options but this is what I found with a quick search. I found the full R34 service manual here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/gtrusa/files/

Isn't the RB25 NEO a shim over bucket engine? In every shim over bucket engine I've seen you use a special service tool to depress the outer rim of the bucket and then use a magnet and a thin plastic spudger or something similar to pull the shims without undoing the cams precariously like you did. When I check the R34 service manual that's also what it depicts:

Yeah, it's very contextual. If you have to add a bunch of plumbing and general annoyance to "do it right" then I also wouldn't bother. On the RB26 venting directly to atmosphere means capping another port on that combo vaccum/coolant pipe under the plenum and figuring out how to keep track of a random hose/hose clamp 5+ years into the future. I have a mystery "firewall harness bolt" sitting in an organizer and it's taking up a non-trivial amount of my mental headspace trying to work out which of the five or so cars it could possibly have come from.