joshuaho96

Have you inspected the turbos at all? I had a friend with the same issue on a different car. In the end it was turbo failure. Check the compressor and turbine blades carefully for damage, they have to be extremely close to the housing in order to actually generate boost/spin a compressor and any little thing can damage that "seal" and cause your symptoms. If you have one turbo functioning properly and the other isn't it can cause similar behavior as one turbo effectively turns into a boost leak because they're joined together at the twin turbo pipe.

It was not tuned properly, the turbos also blew up. So he just has some possibly rebuildable cores basically. For some reason there was RTV on the compressor housing instead of the correct OEM gasket. Details like that are the reason why I told him he needed to tear down the whole engine and do a nut and bolt rebuild the right way. He never showed me the center section gaskets but anyone willing to cut corners like that probably also put RTV on those gaskets or just used RTV which is probably why his turbos blew up to begin with followed by his bottom-end. I recommend no matter what the provenance of a car to always be skeptical and when you do have a chance verify things were done the right way. Someone willing to cut corners almost never stops at the small things.

The center section somewhere should have a part number/tag if it's a Garrett/OEM turbo, the compressor housing is another common spot for turbo specs if it's aftermarket. If you look carefully you should be able to spot it without any disassembly. Easy way to tell whether your stock turbos have had steel turbines installed is look at the exhaust turbine retaining nut. A ceramic turbine will have many sides/splines, aftermarket is usually a standard hex or something similar. I just helped a guy identify his turbos after he blew his motor. Seller claimed it was "Garrett GT2860RS" which should've been a red flag considering those are not direct fit for RB26s. Pulled off the engine it was clear it was R33 ceramics with a metal turbine rebuild kit.

The best way is the new Garage Yoshida injection molded HVAC relocation. He 3D-scanned an OEM shift surround piece and then modified the design in CAD to fit the HVAC unit. Should all just clip in and the look/feel of it should be just like stock: https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/15611 Then any good 2-DIN unit will work.

Yeah there's no winning to some extent with the double DIN issue. Annoying either way. Personally I haven't used the stereo at all. If I ever get around to it I will replace it with a mechless single DIN with bluetooth and call it a day. The other question was how to install without cutting wires. That's pretty simple. You can buy harness adapters for radios for 100% plug and play reversible installation. I don't recall what year of Maxima you're looking for in the US but that is how you do it.

Sounds like you're asking for a Pioneer AVH-3500NEX.

I'm not really sure what you're saying when you said you ran through the flow chart. Pin 92 appears to be a ground. I would verify that has a good connection. Pin 27 and 29 relative to ground should be 8V as you said. For the GTST single plug if pin 27 and 29 are +8V then 26 and 28 should be the signal output. Verify that the supply voltage stays at roughly 8V with the sensor connected. Then verify that the voltage you get at pin 27 and pin 29 is also what you expect. On a flat table not moving it should be 2.5V. Then check against pin 40, 41, 42, and 43 on your A-LSD control unit. On the g-sensor those are equivalent to pin 27, 26, 28, and 29 respectively if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly that I linked in my previous post. Should be page 28 of 31 where the A-LSD/ABS control unit pinout is shown. If you can't find it see below: If you have verified the signals are making it through the harness ok with everything connected up then yes, if you aren't getting about 2.5V from the signal pins relative to body earth you have a dead sensor. It's also not that unlikely because it is basically a glorified pendulum with some springs in there attached to a potentiometer to measure position. If someone dropped the sensor at any point from when it was built to any number of shipping depots and junkyards between the point of manufacture and you over the past 3 decades it's possible that the potentiometer breaks or the springs are permanently deformed and it'll read weird values just sitting there. The red shock sensor not reading excessive force is not proof that the sensor works. Just plain wear and tear can also break those sensors, springs have a rated lifespan after which they can snap or the spring constant just isn't accurate anymore. From looking at the wiring diagram I can also tell you the pinout of the 6 pin sensor connector for the g-sensor is 100% identical between the GTR and the GTST A-LSD. The only difference is that the ATTESA has two longitudinal sensors for some reason while the GTST only uses one.

Porsche's system actually works well though. In the 991 generation especially people raved about how much of a difference it made.

It doesn't sound like fuel pressure slowly bleeding off. If you pull fuel pump there will be a moment where it runs rough as it leans out. I could be wrong but it sounds like it just shuts off as if someone turned the key off. My first instinct is pull ECU logs and see what's going on the moment it dies.

This is worth thinking about, personally I hate worrying about whether the inductive loop or whatever is all set up correctly. I just use a spark plug wire on cylinder 1 instead.

I still can't believe of all the things BMW managed to screw up on that engine it was a vacuum-driven wastegate actuator.

Have you actually verified TDC cylinder 1 is where the balancer says it is? Has this engine been rebuilt at all?

This is true, but the threat of the HICAS system sending me off the road is half the fun on these cars. It's kind of like people buying really old iPhones. They're just garbage in every way but for some reason new in box iPhone 2Gs are selling for 40k USD these days.

That's for the driver side airbag controller. The airbag module in the center console runs the passenger side airbag. If you want to eliminate the driver side airbag controller you need to swap to a series 2/3 wheel and the module that they use in the center console + any harness changes. Most of this stuff is long discontinued.

I doubt it's a lack of knowledge/technology at this point keeping rear axle steering out of racing. Porsche has pretty well figured it all out at this point to the extent that nobody recommends disabling it on track. It also helps that they figured out how to predict the exact problem that people complain about, the HICAS "fighting" them at the limit. The closer you get to the limit of traction in a Porsche the more it attenuates the rear axle steer so there's no strange feeling when you try to drift it. Also, Porsche owners are just way more obsessive. R32/R33 GTRs prior to Americans hyping them up to be the second coming were mostly abused by Canadians too cheap to do anything the right way as winter beaters because they had AWD. I would also consider pulling out all the major electrical modules at this point and checking for dead capacitors in basically anything that can be opened up safely. HICAS just doesn't have that many protections. If anything in the chain from the suspension/steering rack to sensors to the controller logic board is faulty it can absolutely do surprising things that can be downright dangerous. I already had every last bushing and ball joint replaced but I still wonder if I need to crack open the HICAS CU and yaw sensor to replace all the electrolytic caps.

The best part is that Nissan doubled down on it with 4WAS in the V35/V36 Skylines which actually also took away control of the front wheels from you as well to fix some weird issue they had with only steering the rear axle.

Good point, I forget Nissan distinguishes all of these things with weird subtle naming differences. Isn't the R32 also technically Super HICAS though?

As far as I know there's actually a yaw sensor in the back of the R33 and R34 GTR which is used for HICAS. It vaguely helps maybe. In practice the R33 and R34 group N cars AFAIK kept the yaw sensor but deleted the HICAS and fed the signal into the ATTESA/ABS controller instead to control the A-LSD.

I have had two separate R32 owners tell me about 2-3 incidents where they were either in a turn and the HICAS was trying to make the car go straight or they were going straight and the rear end was crabbing out to try and make the car turn. Neither could get it to reproduce again afterwards. It absolutely destroys confidence in a car when the system can randomly misbehave like that. My R33 doesn't do that but I have heard of bad yaw sensors causing behavior like the rear end crabbing out under braking or excessive vibration/exhaust noise doing something similar as well. The R32 doesn't have any form of feedback control and as far as I can tell the HICAS is really far more aggressive compared to the R33.

Almost every I know with an R32 GTR has some story about the HICAS trying to steer them in an unintended direction. The R33s seem more reliable in that regard. I'm pretty sure my HICAS is not locked out and I can't even really tell if it's working or not.

I can get it to idle at 800 rpm if I wanted to, but the engine feels rough and genuinely unhappy to be there if you put any load at all on it. Not like my LS400 which will happily idle at 400 RPM if you put it in drive.

Idle target on the emissions sticker says 950 rpm with 20 degrees of timing. I probably need a new harmonic balancer but I get nasty vibrations much below 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure the AAC also contributes to cold start airflow looking at the Consult logs, it just needs the extra help courtesy of the cold start valve. I'm probably not explaining it too well but the cold start idle target at 20C coolant temp is something like 1400 RPM, then if you start slipping the clutch and don't give it any throttle to compensate for the drop in RPM the ECU reacts by really opening up the AAC valve and keeping it there. Pressing the clutch pedal in it's not unusual in my experience to see it hit 1800 RPM until I wiggle the shifter in neutral enough for the neutral switch to work and the ECU to slowly drop the idle back down. Anti stall in hindsight was definitely the wrong word for it, that's more like a clutch position sensor that will raise the idle proactively instead of reactively. It's more like the idle control is very willing to try and catch a falling idle and is not that quick to deal with a high idle. I have dreams of finishing a Haltech base map eventually. No tuner is going to bother with my weird obsessions so I'm going to have to DIY all of this.

I run factory ride height + suspension. The car already barely fits the floor jack under it and my local roads are not good enough to lower it any more. It's not aesthetically pleasing but that's life.

OBD2 always has battery voltage present on some of the pins. I'm willing to bet someone shorted something or damaged it.

I'm pretty confident I have the stock clutch in my R33. It is far and away the most forgiving clutch I've ever driven. The aggressive anti-stall + factory 950 rpm idle also makes it hilariously easy to get going even without throttle application in first. The slip zone feels a mile wide. The vacuum assisted clutch master also makes it feel lighter than something like an S2000. The factory idle control is probably not intended to be anti-stall or anything like that but it reacts to persistent low idle by ratcheting up the AAC duty cycle to max which gets you to like 1400-1500 rpm and even higher when the engine is cold and the cold start valve is still open.