joshuaho96

-5 turbos are going to be sized for like 600 crank hp. So yes you will need injectors, you will need a fuel pump. If your tuner is using a standalone ECU it will be pretty trivial to wire up either a brushless controller with a flow control signal or a simple PWM with a solid state relay as mentioned earlier. I strongly recommend PWM control because for some effort invested in your ECU and wiring you can keep more things stock and makes more room in what is already a pretty cramped engine bay. If you control the fuel pump well enough the stock FPR is sufficient or a similar Nismo adjustable FPR. Hard wired to the ignition switch/main EFI relay at 100% duty cycle you're going to have to have enough return fuel capacity to absorb over 300 lph of fuel delivery at idle. This depends on your comfort with electronics though. Personally I have no problem wasting my life on code/staring at documentation if it means less mechanical complication but your opinion may differ.

If you try to close the throttle body more by adjusting the throttle stop you're going to cause it to bind against the housing. Don't do this. The throttle stop is set at the factory for a reason and unless you know the correct adjustment specs it's a bad idea to try and mess with it. I'm speaking from experience as someone who has messed with that stuff before. I would only do it on an engine where you're installing your own custom throttle/intake and therefore the adjustment spec is no longer valid. Once you have ruled out external vacuum leaks you have to start chasing internal vacuum leaks. This is considerably more annoying. What I mean is stuff like this where you have some old worn part allowing air to bypass the throttle so the ECU can see the excess air but it can't control the idle: I had a mildly high idle on my RB26 and some combination of having the intake manifold resealed and the throttle bodies rebuilt likely went a long way to curing my high idle issues.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/trans/321/32006M/ https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts-4-reverse-switch-assembly-32005-21u1b-jdm-genuine https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r32-r33-gtr-r32-gts-4-neutral-saftey-switch-32006-31g01-jdm Looks like rearmost should be the neutral position switch. The one closer to the bellhousing is the reverse switch.

It's hard to reproduce the exact factory colors and feel, but alcantara is pretty much the same general idea. It's all polyester or otherwise plastic-based suede imitation fabric. Robson leather managed this with just alcantara so that's probably the way to go: Keep in mind you will also need to find someone who can figure out how to fix the foam which is almost certainly collapsed with age. If you aren't wedded to the exact OEM look and feel you could do something like the Nismo seat covers which is plastic-based leather on the bolsters and headrest and alcantara in the center. I wouldn't buy the Nismo seat covers, kind of a waste of money unless you really want the Nismo logo for some reason. Garage Active makes something similar for half the money so the margin there is pretty tremendous. Personally I think the OEM airbox is a good idea mostly because the HKS mushroom filters don't actually filter anything and sand in your engine isn't great for its longevity. You'd have to use the OEM paper filters or something comparable though and it will likely reduce power output if you're going for huge power. My recommendation if you want to rewire the fuel pump to reduce fuel pressure regulator load you should use a solid state relay and a new wire to your standalone ECU so you can adjust duty cycle. The factory FPR is super dinky and can't bypass a lot of fuel. Even big aftermarket FPRs have limits, if you throw 500 lph at one and expect it to bypass all of it at idle you're probably going to have higher fuel pressure at idle. If you plan on throwing out all of the OEM fuel system this is less relevant but then you should consider how you're going to replace the OEM pulsation damper and all of that fun stuff as well for higher flow designs. As others have said a lot can go wrong with cars this old. Don't parts cannon everything. Look at things as they are and try to get to ground truth when diagnosing problems to understand the causal chain between a problem and the resulting symptoms. Otherwise every little problem will drive you insane.

I still can't believe Nissan wants 5k USD for an N1 block now. There's no way it's 3x better than an 05U.

Do you have the spec sheet for the switch they provided? Looks like there's some writing on the switch so you should be able to look up the part.

Stock boost wiring is fine, it goes to the ECU. If you don't want to cut the plugs you can make an adapter from the OEM harness to the new boost solenoid. Contact Wiring Specialties to see what they can do in that regard. As others have mentioned you can just shove a bolt or something into the end of the hose to cap it off if you don't want to put a cap in at the pipe. Personally I'm a big fan of retaining OEM connectors where possible after seeing how much people want for new ones or how much Nissan wants for new harnesses now.

I recommend using the EPC to answer these questions in the future: https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/hr33/3927-rb20e/body/650/65100/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/body/650/65100/

If you don't block it off or replace the bypass valve you will just bypass the oil filter entirely. The purpose of that relief valve is to pop open if the oil filter clogs.

You don't need reinforced lines for vacuum lines. If you buy the OEM Nissan vacuum line it's just nitrile rubber with no reinforcement. Some hoses are reinforced but they're usually the larger ones like the AAC/IACV that have relatively thin walls compared to their inner diameter. If the factory line uses a hose clamp then you need a hose clamp. Even some places like the FPR regulator where no hose clamp is specified I would recommend one anyways. The point of the hose barb is so once you get a hose clamp in place in order to pull the hose off the hose has to fight the spring force of the hose clamp in order to widen enough to slip off. As others have mentioned the failure mode of letting the wastegate line vent to atmosphere is catastrophic. This is equivalent to 100% duty cycle on the boost valve and usually means enough boost to blow up your engine. Hose clamps are cheap, especially compared to a new engine. If you're near the SF Bay Area I probably have a few left over I can give to you for free. Otherwise it's 16439-N210A from a Nissan dealer. When it comes to engines 1mm off can be a pretty big deal. I would just get the right vacuum hose. Nothing about these engines is cheap and doing the intake manifold gaskets is enough of a PITA that you may as well do it right the first time.

1. To cap the pipe buy one from an auto parts store, it looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/Assortment-Automotive-Carburetor-Manifold-Fitting/dp/B09B3N5DF1 Be sure to retain the hose clamp on the cap or it will pop off under boost. Your diagram showing the part to cap off is correct. 2. Yes, that port on the plenum would go to port 3. It’s also worth mentioning that you shouldn’t be using the back of the balance tube for a boost controller because it’s after the throttle body. The other two ports are already used for the cold start valve and the idle air control valve. 3. There’s no pressure port to measure on either turbo directly. That diagram is generic, not specific to the RB26. The port on the plenum is the pressure port and that’s the combined output of both turbos. So there’s nothing to cap. If you are concerned that the two turbos are not working equally that’s a known problem with the OEM intake piping and part of the reason why the rear turbo tends to blow up first.

Didn't you post this question on Reddit already? If not here's my answer again: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/02/rb26dett-vacuum-and-wastegate-diagram.html Port 1 is the blue line. Port 2 is the green line. Port 3 is also the green line. The key point is that you will have to modify the vacuum line for port 3. Instead of tying port 2 and 3 together you cap the vacuum line on the combo coolant/vacuum pipe and the line on the plenum goes directly to the valve. Port 2 has unchanged routing. As others have said don't do this until you get the new ECU installed and set up properly. Only do it once you're ready to set up boost control to reduce the number of variables.

It's not directly exposed to exhaust gas temperatures and it's presumably carrying a bunch of oil in it so that will help bring temps closer to 100C. So it should be fine. If you have to pull everything apart anyways you can verify you have the right pipe, make sure both flanges are flat, then use this sealant on top of a clean/flat/new/etc gasket to try and give it the best odds of sealing properly. Also worth mentioning that this copper spray sealant is probably not great to breathe in, make sure to use outdoors like rattlecan and use some cardboard to catch overspray.

If you're using paper gaskets one thing you could try is spraying this copper spray on a new gasket after cleaning off the oil to see if that improves things: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-high-temp-sealant-12-oz/ I only suggest this if it's less effort to slide a paper gasket in there somehow instead of possibly pulling apart most of the turbo support infrastructure to replace the return pipe and gasket.

Reasoning about it if the switch were actually closing you would have the AC relay click on in both instances, so presumably the green/yellow wire is the +12V side of the pressure switch while the aqua/white wire is the ground side. From your diagram the ground side is switched by the ECU pin 9 so my guess is the aqua/white wire is what you're looking for as a mediocre electrical engineer. I would recommend going to harbor freight to get a cheap multimeter to verify what I'm saying still but if you can't be bothered maybe someone else will check my work.

Did you try measuring the voltage on the pins to try and figure out the polarity? It's either that or you can measure the voltage of each pin relative to chassis ground. Once you know where the voltage drop occurs that will narrow things down significantly.

One pin is 12V, the other pin is ground. Pin 9 on the ECU is going to be the ground side. When you turn the car on even if the engine isn't running it will send voltage to the pressure switch. Use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the pins to determine which side is positive and which side is negative if you don't know the wire colors. The negative side is pin 9 if that diagram is correct. I would have to check the factory service manual to be 100% sure.

D2R bulbs are designed for HIDs in reflector housings. There is a shield built into the bulb to help it be compliant with the local design rules. My LS400 uses those. Looking at the C34 Stagea factory HID housings they are reflectors and will call for D2R bulbs. They are pretty annoying in the sense that reflectors are not simple to do an LHT or RHT conversion for. My LS400 also requires one of the low beams to be dipped significantly to avoid excessive glare as the reflector design is not exactly ideal.

Keep in mind that the bottom fresh air vent is not necessarily just a fresh air vent, it can also vent liquid fuel if you overfill the tank so there is some mechanism on most of these cars to deal with that.

You need a consult cable unfortunately. If your tuner has one they can do some cursory checks on the dyno. Isn't transient throttle in these ECUs mapped based on the TPS voltage derivative? It's all kind of a vague guess but I would expect a bigger throttle body to potentially introduce too much air too quickly in transients.

Probably yes, I'd make sure it isn't something else though with some experiments. Make sure the idle TPS voltage threshold is set correctly in the ECU and it's working correctly. I recommend pulling some ECU logs too to try and understand why it's behaving strangely.

If it has a bigger throttle body than stock that will definitely cause strange behavior with transient throttle.

Reading an automatic transmission oil level requires a special procedure. Temperature has to be correct and sometimes it must be done with the engine running.

I would not trust Mine's knock control strategies. It is a commonly known issue in the US that the Mine's ECUs, even when used correctly with the intended modifications will knock horribly on lower octane fuel and won't pull enough timing fast enough to save the engine. Many parts of the US only get ~96 RON fuel for "premium" unleaded.

The VR30DDTT isn't too bad for making power with. Shame it's an open deck block though.