joshuaho96

The sound you're hearing is the shift interlock device. You have to press the brake to shift out of park. There is a stop lamp switch in addition to the little rubber grommet. Test the switch and see if it's working as intended. A new one is pretty cheap.

It's DBW. Easiest place to start is make sure the throttle body isn't clogged up too badly. Long term fuel trims will also give some idea of what's going on.

The specs for this stuff is in the factory service manual. If the source for the play is in the rack itself then you will need to remove it to adjust the preload. Steering play can have many sources. Make sure it is actually the rack before you go through the effort of removing it.

Vinyl vacuum line caps should work. Even if you manage to get it in before emptying the reservoir I would do a full flush including ABS bleed afterwards.

Whiteline is probably fine for the subframe, technically I believe Nismo USA is selling solid aluminum subframe bushings these days which is a step harsher than that. Again, this is a question of what you care about. If you want "purity" then I'm pretty sure Nismo is actually the only option for "OEM", looking at the OEM parts catalog they don't break out the subframe bushing as a separate part. 55442-RS580 should be what you're looking for.

Also, checking the front turbo is not that useful. Usually the rear turbo is first to blow up.

I really don't get it anymore, even accounting for currency fluctuations Amayama is often more expensive than US dealers for the same parts these days.

You sure it wasn't NATS or something?

Nissan USA dealers, PartsForNissans, etc. Amayama is also an option. Nismo parts you can try RHDJapan, Trust Kikaku, or Nengun.

Replace the bushings. Either Nismo or OEM. Whiteline bushings are polyurethane and do not have the same behavior as rubber. If you want an OEM experience run OEM rubber. Some bushings due to the nature of the kinematics require compliance from rubber while others you can make it as stiff as you can tolerate from an NVH perspective. If you are asking questions like this I don't think it's worth the trouble to research what bushings should stay rubber and what should be polyurethane.

This is terrifying stuff. I put a Nismo collector for that sweet 2% power boost on and I've been arguing with some local owners for days that it's fine because after the CA emissions compliance cats the TP index never gets to 88. Even with the HKS turbos at 0.9 kg/cm^2 wastegate boost.

There is no code 56 for the CEL. EC-23 in the R34 factory service manual shows that there are no codes past 55.

I thought the whole point of the twin turbos was that they didn't have a single twin scroll turbo readily available when it was designed in the 80s and Nissan was too broke in the 90s to contemplate actually fixing anything wrong with the RB26 anyways. But hey, for a cool 1.6 million JPY you can buy the HKS intake which supposedly fixes most of the problems: https://www.hks-power.co.jp/product_db/intake/db/70029-AN001_EN.pdf

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bcnr33/3935-rb26dett/body/969/96935/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/body/969/96935/ The shifter surround appears to interchange, but you don't really need one anyways on a GTST. You can just put a double DIN in there without a relocation.

Good luck. I stared at the GTST OEM sensor/bracket and then the Midori sensor and couldn't see why it wouldn't work but I have never torn apart the R33 center storage to see how it all fits up.

To do it right means pulling apart the whole sensor and rebuilding it. It's much easier to just buy an R33 GTR digital g-sensor and only use the one plug that fits. The sensors are almost identical anyways, it looks like the bracket is pretty much the same between the R33 GTR and GTST with A-LSD. I would probably go for the Midori Seibi one because it looks to have a cleaner design and I don't really need a bunch of DIP switches to change the g-sensor response from stock. If you really insist on trying to fix the sensors you have you can look at this for reference: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2012/02/digital-g-sensor-for-nissan-skyline-gt.html You can see the pendulum mechanism I'm talking about. It's attached to the circuit board underneath with ribbon cables. To fully refurbish the ones you have you probably need to replace the springs with whatever the factory spec was, then replace the pots as well or at least clean them of any debris. I don't know if it's actually designed to make this simple, it's not unusual for repairs of this nature to be a big pain in the neck which is why the FSM just says toss the sensor and order a new one.

Have you inspected the turbos at all? I had a friend with the same issue on a different car. In the end it was turbo failure. Check the compressor and turbine blades carefully for damage, they have to be extremely close to the housing in order to actually generate boost/spin a compressor and any little thing can damage that "seal" and cause your symptoms. If you have one turbo functioning properly and the other isn't it can cause similar behavior as one turbo effectively turns into a boost leak because they're joined together at the twin turbo pipe.

It was not tuned properly, the turbos also blew up. So he just has some possibly rebuildable cores basically. For some reason there was RTV on the compressor housing instead of the correct OEM gasket. Details like that are the reason why I told him he needed to tear down the whole engine and do a nut and bolt rebuild the right way. He never showed me the center section gaskets but anyone willing to cut corners like that probably also put RTV on those gaskets or just used RTV which is probably why his turbos blew up to begin with followed by his bottom-end. I recommend no matter what the provenance of a car to always be skeptical and when you do have a chance verify things were done the right way. Someone willing to cut corners almost never stops at the small things.

The center section somewhere should have a part number/tag if it's a Garrett/OEM turbo, the compressor housing is another common spot for turbo specs if it's aftermarket. If you look carefully you should be able to spot it without any disassembly. Easy way to tell whether your stock turbos have had steel turbines installed is look at the exhaust turbine retaining nut. A ceramic turbine will have many sides/splines, aftermarket is usually a standard hex or something similar. I just helped a guy identify his turbos after he blew his motor. Seller claimed it was "Garrett GT2860RS" which should've been a red flag considering those are not direct fit for RB26s. Pulled off the engine it was clear it was R33 ceramics with a metal turbine rebuild kit.

The best way is the new Garage Yoshida injection molded HVAC relocation. He 3D-scanned an OEM shift surround piece and then modified the design in CAD to fit the HVAC unit. Should all just clip in and the look/feel of it should be just like stock: https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/15611 Then any good 2-DIN unit will work.

Yeah there's no winning to some extent with the double DIN issue. Annoying either way. Personally I haven't used the stereo at all. If I ever get around to it I will replace it with a mechless single DIN with bluetooth and call it a day. The other question was how to install without cutting wires. That's pretty simple. You can buy harness adapters for radios for 100% plug and play reversible installation. I don't recall what year of Maxima you're looking for in the US but that is how you do it.

Sounds like you're asking for a Pioneer AVH-3500NEX.

I'm not really sure what you're saying when you said you ran through the flow chart. Pin 92 appears to be a ground. I would verify that has a good connection. Pin 27 and 29 relative to ground should be 8V as you said. For the GTST single plug if pin 27 and 29 are +8V then 26 and 28 should be the signal output. Verify that the supply voltage stays at roughly 8V with the sensor connected. Then verify that the voltage you get at pin 27 and pin 29 is also what you expect. On a flat table not moving it should be 2.5V. Then check against pin 40, 41, 42, and 43 on your A-LSD control unit. On the g-sensor those are equivalent to pin 27, 26, 28, and 29 respectively if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly that I linked in my previous post. Should be page 28 of 31 where the A-LSD/ABS control unit pinout is shown. If you can't find it see below: If you have verified the signals are making it through the harness ok with everything connected up then yes, if you aren't getting about 2.5V from the signal pins relative to body earth you have a dead sensor. It's also not that unlikely because it is basically a glorified pendulum with some springs in there attached to a potentiometer to measure position. If someone dropped the sensor at any point from when it was built to any number of shipping depots and junkyards between the point of manufacture and you over the past 3 decades it's possible that the potentiometer breaks or the springs are permanently deformed and it'll read weird values just sitting there. The red shock sensor not reading excessive force is not proof that the sensor works. Just plain wear and tear can also break those sensors, springs have a rated lifespan after which they can snap or the spring constant just isn't accurate anymore. From looking at the wiring diagram I can also tell you the pinout of the 6 pin sensor connector for the g-sensor is 100% identical between the GTR and the GTST A-LSD. The only difference is that the ATTESA has two longitudinal sensors for some reason while the GTST only uses one.

Porsche's system actually works well though. In the 991 generation especially people raved about how much of a difference it made.

It doesn't sound like fuel pressure slowly bleeding off. If you pull fuel pump there will be a moment where it runs rough as it leans out. I could be wrong but it sounds like it just shuts off as if someone turned the key off. My first instinct is pull ECU logs and see what's going on the moment it dies.