joshuaho96

You probably can get to it without dropping the diff, it's just going to require some quality time. Wear good thick gloves and a long sleeved shirt that you don't mind getting ruined.

Worst part is Turner Motorsport includes those in their HPFP kit. The HPFP is OEM but the sensors are AIC Germany, which is some brand I've never heard of but almost certainly means made in China on the cheap. It's possible to get quality out of China but anybody that wants to go cheap and nasty isn't going to bother with the work that it takes to make it happen.

Yep, new OEM sensors on both high pressure side and low pressure side fixed the no-start. By the time I swapped the sensors the low pressure sensor had gone from reading incorrectly to permanently stuck at open circuit. High pressure sensor was still reading a value but pulled from the rail instead of reading 0-2 bar it was still reading 13 bar of pressure. I've never had a firsthand story of how aftermarket questionable alibaba parts could cause very real issues until now, and it really reiterates the importance of not getting tempted to save 50-60 USD when the risk is potentially having to do the whole job again and have your daily driver non-functional for weeks waiting on parts and tools and free time/expertise to diagnose the issue.

I helped a coworker with his 335i recently, bit of a threadjack but I was absolutely shocked at how much carbon buildup those engines get in the intake valves looking at it firsthand. Then I was shocked again at how his no-start issue was caused by "Bav Auto"/AIC Germany fuel pressure sensors. Fixing both those issues got his car running well again.

Depends on what the interaction is with FPCM and the FPR. If the FPCM can take the higher amp draw (up to 16.5A when stalled) and the pump can handle being run at the voltages provided by the FPCM + it doesn't lose voltage at full speed then it can be a drop-in replacement. If you can't use the FPCM then most likely running the pump at 100% speed will cause the stock FPR to be overwhelmed as tylink mentions and you will need a new FPR.

The one you linked is probably fine for Skylines which have relatively short pinch weld depth. The flat rubber top is not factory approved by Nissan. Most people doing something wrong doesn't make it right. Also because people keep doing things the quick and dirty way I've increasingly become very distrustful of mechanics and DIY almost everything. The vertical section of the pinch weld is to locate the pad, not to hold the weight of the car: This is from a Toyota Kluger service manual, same thing. I can find a million unibody cars with pinch welds where the FSM will point this stuff out. They technically say it's ok to use a flat rubber block, but only for a lift that very few people have (quickjack style with a long plate running the full wheelbase of the car).

You have to email them, they really should but I've never been able to figure it out as they don't show the full list of adapter caps available anymore. CTA also has the Nitto fitting which can be adapted to Motive bleeders but requires the Nitto to BSP adapter, then a BSP to NPT adapter which is pretty hard to come by.

I highly recommend the Motive pressure bleeder. For R33/R34 I have confirmed the Motive 1107/1117 cap is a direct fit. Putting 20 psi at the master cylinder helps to make sure even if your bleeder threads are not airtight you will push fluid through. The vacuum bleeder setups don't work IMO. Preventing vacuum leaks on the geometry of the bleeder just isn't possible and it never seems to fully purge the system of air. The only method I haven't tried is using a syringe of brake fluid to force fluid back in from the bleeders which might help in some cases, supposedly it helps a lot with bleeding clutches.

I have gotten the car off the ground before on all 4 corners with only one floor jack. Jack up the front first to the lowest stop on a 2 or 3 ton jack stand set. Set it down on the stands and then jack up the rear to the same height. Repeat until you're at the top of the jack stand travel. If you need more height you can swap out the 2 ton stands for 6 ton stands or something similar halfway through. It's annoying and a lot slower than a 2 post lift or a quickjack but I don't have space for either of those.

No, a leak if anything will just bleed off transfer case pressure which should lessen the symptoms rather than worsen it. The actuator block lives somewhere above the fuel tank or rear diff. Looks like this:

Also worth mentioning that there is a way to activate the ABS pump and valves with Consult to help bleed things. But if you suspect a damaged master cylinder or booster I would start there.

I agree with this but that's because I don't want a spray coating that is impossible to remove.

The air gap in your reservoir at the bottom should not exceed 5mm. When the air bleed mode is set by unplugging the connector the pump should run to maintain a fixed target pressure. If it's not re-pressurizing after cracking the nipple for a second then something might be wrong. But if it holds pressure then it's probably fine.

Actuator block on the R33 is crammed opposite the exhaust under the steel trunk panel. On an R32 you can just pull the ATTESA fuses and it will deactivate the pump.

RHDJapan would be insanely expensive because they don't have a container shipping/surface shipping option.

Looking up the parts catalog in the US it mentions what looks like an electric water pump for the "high output"/400 hp spec: https://www.infinitipartsdeal.com/parts-list/2020-infiniti-q50/radiator-components.html?pnc=26 It's also mentioned here: https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/a-closer-look-at-the-vr30ddtts-turbochargers/ According to AMS it is a second intercooler pump: https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-vr30-auxiliary-intercooler-pump-kit/ Also the speed sensor for the high output spec makes sense. They're probably concerned with how small the turbo is that a boost leak or whatever other unexpected issue at 14.5 psi will overspeed those turbos and create a warranty claim. The CHRA disintegrating into the oil/coolant/intake will probably cascade into total engine failure. The VR30DDTT is not a super robust and reliable engine IMO so they're kind of right to be concerned.

It would be good to test what happens if you disconnect both the failsafe and main ETS solenoid on the actuator block. If it goes away then for some reason it's commanding AWD when it shouldn't. Which could mean your tires are unevenly worn. If it still binds also de-power the pump. If that fixes it then something is wrong with your actuator block leaking pump pressure when it shouldn't. If all of that doesn't work then it has to be your transfer case preload or something like that.

Does it go away if you disable the transfer case?

It will help a little as others have said but don't expect miracles. And most tuners are not remotely interested in tuning fuel economy so expect to have to learn and do it yourself.

This is the correct way yes.

I'm confused honestly by this, as far as I can tell isn't this basically all repairable using off the shelf bicycle/motorcycle components? Other than the inevitable injection molded plastic bits. The T end piece is a very common bowden cable part that just requires the right crimper to replace, etc.

The only thing I will say about your vacuum line routing is that you want to make sure you didn't accidentally go too high and use the vacuum chamber ports that go into the BOV and evap lines. I'm pretty sure you didn't because it appears to be angled correctly but you never know, the video is not crystal clear and I'm working off of some assumptions. Reference this picture to get an idea for what I'm talking about, you can see how the angled vacuum pipes attached to the coolant pipe are for the boost solenoid but there are two more ports for other things: You can probably just blow through the hoses with your mouth but it may not be enough flow to be sure that it's working one way or another. You don't need super precise pressure control, you just don't want to exceed 20 psi for example. So if your compressor has a tank just get it to 15 psi and then shut off the compressor entirely for the rest of the test. You only need to verify that the air is flowing through the solenoid the way it should be. Everyone is telling you to run new lines for everything but personally if you have already verified the factory boost control worked before doing all this I still think using the OEM wiring + vacuum lines reduces the amount of unknowns you need to test. OEM is what works, the less you change the better IMO.

This is what your setup is: Port 1 - atmospheric vent Port 2 - wastegate port Port 3 - Pre-throttle boost source Compared against this diagram: So the vacuum line setup actually seems ok to me? You might need to use an air compressor or just blow through the hoses. When it's off it should connect port 3 to port 2. When it's on it should connect port 1 to port 2 instead. Set it to 90% duty cycle on the Haltech and see if that is actually happening. Don't run the engine when doing this experiment and remember to set the values back to something normal afterwards. Put 14 psi into port 1 vacuum line and verify you can hear it venting into the intake piping before the turbos. It shouldn't hold pressure substantially. If all the function tests check out set a boost fuel cut for something very conservative like 2 psi over wastegate boost and set the solenoid duty cycle to 90%. If you still get stuck at wastegate boost then try just running with port 2 open to atmosphere with the same conservative boost cut. Before you actually set that boost cut the way I describe see if it works at 2 psi of boost for example. You don't want to find out after the fact whether the boost cut didn't work as intended. Make sure to set a large hysteresis as well in the fuel cut so you aren't bouncing off of it.

yep, both can fail: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2013/06/attesa-ecu-fault-code-18-and-19.html

G sensors do not affect the pump. Entirely separate issues. Most likely your hydraulic unit has some fault. Is your nitrogen accumulator reasonably new? If it’s original you probably need to replace it along with whatever else is broken.