joshuaho96

High fuel pressure means even higher demands on the fuel pump. 600 whp with what sounds like small fuel lines and a lot of fuel pump sounds like it could easily cause the pressure relief valve on the pump to be permanently damaged and not flow properly anymore. Had this happen in the past so I recommend being careful with it.

You probably have a few different issues. The first is that an RB25DET NEO will require a ton of work the moment you change airflow beyond stock limits as the stock ECU tune has protections built in. This is part of the reason why your fuel economy is aggressively awful. Your fuel pressure regulator may have been modified as well in the past, not unusual for people to tap the top of one with a punch to adjust the spring pressure. Or to drop it on accident. The spec is likely a standard 3 bar regulator, the tolerance there isn't going to be 0.4 bar either way but you can check the factory service manual to be sure. Even older ECUs like what runs on the RB25DET for R33 they're still going to drop like 5 degrees of timing at least if you flow more air than what is expected as a reasonable max for the stock turbos. I can pull up Nistune to be sure but that's my experience with the RB26.

https://www.nismo.co.jp/news_list/2022/news_flash/22012.html That's not a real price, that part number is discontinued. Those clusters sold out instantly as well, presumably some people plan on scalping them.

I doubt it, people are just getting progressively brave about asking crazy prices for things. Part of a global trend really.

Yeah you can't run that if you're using speed density. It's the exact same part as the coolant temp sensor and is incredibly slow to react. In the OEM ECU all it's used for is to detect heat soak and enrich the mix as a result.

Can't you just adjust the speedo calibration by using the ADJ solder bridges on the speedo board? Then it would be as simple as replacing the face plate with a copy no? Seems like it would be a trivial way to turn a "cheap OEM" gauge cluster into a "rare old logo full scale meter" gauge cluster. Same goes for the tachometer.

Both of those are either open circuit or short circuit faults.

You have to nudge it pretty hard. Anything where the hood might be fouling on something else like pulling an engine you may as well just remove the hood altogether.

I recommend sticking to the hood prop, that's inevitably what people use anyways when the gas strut loses charge.

You really want to get more specific than that, as others have mentioned usually the leak is coming from something external like an oil feed or drain. Internal turbo seals leaking usually manifests as a ton of oil in your intake or spewing oil out the exhaust, not so much an external leak dripping down the side of the engine. Going single turbo is likely to not be a cost effective repair but if you really want to you could go for it.

You should probably get a good light and look up from below. You'll probably be able to spot the leak.

How different can it really be? The late R32 GTR turbos and early R33 GTR turbos have the same exact part numbers for the turbo assembly including wastegate. All R33 GTR and R32 GTR turbos are listed as interchangeable on the EPC if it isn’t N1 or Nismo so presumably it should be fine especially if you kept track of what wastegate the turbo came from.

https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/14766 https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/14775 https://blog.garage-yoshida.net/archives/14784 Garage Yoshida is up to interesting things again. After doing their complete strut towers for R33 and R34 AWD chassis they’re moving on to making R32 radiator core supports, strut towers, chassis rails, and sills. Mostly targeted at helping people to fix cars that have been in frontal collisions or severe jack point damage.

I still wonder whether it’s better to exhaust into the fender liner or out the side of the bumper. I’ve seen both.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/gtrusa/permalink/886361081566908/?mibextid=Tuo9sz

There’s nothing wrong with the HKS kit, people just don’t know the limitations of it. It’s designed to fit in the space that exists. You can maybe squeeze in a bit more but not much in the passenger side fender. Driver side is crammed full with intake piping and requires deleting the OEM BOVs if you want to fit another oil cooler there. The Nissan N1 factory oil cooler deletes the AC condenser to fit more area. I’ve seen some cars put the oil cooler at the bottom of the car basically right where the engine splash shield is. This lets you put in a lot more oil cooler but the risk of emptying your oil sump everywhere is pretty high. As others have mentioned if you need more oil cooler one way to try and drop temperatures is improved ducting through the core. Air doesn’t naturally want to go through the core so improving ducting and aero does a huge amount. If you want to get fancy with it you can use 3D scanning and do some CFD to estimate where the right places are for intake and exhaust.

The HKS type S cooler is pretty weak and you still need the factory oil heat exchanger. If you really can’t be bothered to swap back to OEM clutch fan and a nicer radiator you can see what happens but odds are you will have trouble with cooling especially if you end up in stop and go traffic on a hot day.

These days RB26 ignitors are so expensive new that you may as well go for R35 coil conversions. All new stock ignition components are roughly comparable to an R35 coil conversion in price and that assumes you shop around and get decent prices. Deleting the ignitor is super easy. Just buy the harness adapter if your kit doesn’t come with one. It’s basically just some wires connecting the old input and output of the ignitor directly instead of putting a transistor between the two like the OEM setup. Don’t do what I’ve seen some people do and gut an old ignitor and solder wires inside it to make a cheaper version. It technically works but it’s courting disaster. I also recommend not using a mishimoto radiator or their electric fans. The factory oil cooler dumps all of its heat into the coolant so you do need a decent radiator and fan. From the people that have raced these cars their recommendation is universally to run a factory clutch fan/shroud and a decent radiator. Keep in mind too much intercooler pressure drop will also reduce the efficacy of the radiator. As others have mentioned one big reason for cylinder 6 always dying first is the compromised design of the factory intake plenum. Technically I believe it’s called an intake manifold collector but that’s a lot of extra words. The runner for cylinder 6 is clearly designed to make it possible to clear the clutch master cylinder and brake booster to make it possible to pull the plenum with the engine in the car relatively simply. As a result it sits at the very end of the plenum chamber which means it’s the path of least resistance. If you compare the OEM plenum to a Nismo plenum the big change that sticks out is cylinder 6 no longer has a weird curved runner and the plenum chamber extends past the runner to make the air have to make a turn to balance the airflow a little better. On top of this most of the cylinders in that plenum have a bellmouth design to improve airflow while cylinder 6 doesn’t. The other problem is that cylinder 6 is the last cylinder to get coolant flow. So it’s naturally going to run hotter than others. Pretty much any time you see people post compression test numbers after blowing up an RB26 it’s cylinder 6 that looks the worst.

This would be HKS GTIII-SS turbos. They top out at maybe 25 psi in the midrange at best but can’t do more than 20 psi at high rpm due to the turbine sizing. I would presume with port injection though whatever can be achieved with fuel enrichment should be also doable with water. As far as knock monitoring goes I’m planning on using the Elite 2500 but I haven’t qualified whether the factory sensor and harness has acceptable SNR. It’s entirely possible I just do flex fuel and stop there though as so many people have told me that water injection is too unreliable for what is basically a secondary fuel injection system.

Yeah I think it’s fair to say my goals are a little weird compared to most that modify their car. I still debate semi-frequently whether it’s worth it to try and do water injection to see if I can run lambda 1 deep into boost.

I don’t even know if things will improve but the hope is when snapping the throttle open it’ll respond better in that initial instant and require less transient enrichment. Some things are only going to be noticeable in ECU logging or staring at a five gas analyzer. Andy now at Haltech mentioned offhand in a video once that when tuning x-tau stock injectors often have far lower X constants compared to aftermarket decapped injectors.

There’s no real power benefit to better targeted spray. That’s not at all what I was claiming. I just want to see if I can improve the transient response in high delta throttle situations relative to the factory injectors. The 040 injectors will do better than factory purely by virtue of their much smaller droplet sizes but spray targeting helps too. The other aspect is emissions. Part of that comes from just naturally better AFR control in transients from less wall wetting but also during cold starts I would expect to be able to pull out some enrichment. Not a ton but some. Almost all of this is only relevant for low RPM where open valve injection is doable. As for whether OEMs use dual spray in PFI it was very popular starting with EV6 generation injectors and was refined further with the EV14s.

It’s more about modernizing the engine where possible. Reducing the wall wetting should improve transient response and emissions.

I really want a split spray injector to match the two intake valves. The easy route would be the 980cc 040 injectors that are everywhere but those are single cone. I thought maybe I was wrong about that when PRP claimed they weren’t the other day but I checked again to be sure. The difference is going to be minuscule but I’m pretty sure doing the math it won’t take too much of a bump in fuel pressure to have plenty of injector headroom. The main attraction for brushless IMO is no derate in lifespan for high ethanol use, lower power draw for more alternator headroom, and seemingly a flatter flow rate vs output pressure curve. I do wonder if the DW440 brushless will be any good or if I need to go searching for a better option. I don’t really need a ton of flow but I don’t want to worry at all about whether I’ll run out of headroom from excessive fuel line losses. Even 440 lph is likely too much flow for my purposes. I thought we established this with the choice of turbos no?

I’m definitely curious about going a similar route in my R33 once I have time to start messing with the fuel system. I really want to try running 997.1 Turbo EV14 injectors and a 440 lph brushless pump for an E85 conversion. I figure my comically tiny turbos should be enough of a limiting factor to get by on ~630cc injectors if I bump the fuel pressure enough.