joshuaho96

And now you have 500+ pounds of engine hanging basically in free space threatening to split your head open. Not worth the hassle. And I would go as far to suggest that doing turbos with the engine in the car is not the worst idea in the world if you can afford to take your time and don't have space for a car and an engine.

PCV seems a lot more complicated than most give it credit for. It seems like you want to have all of that flow to pull crankcase vacuum when possible, but the moment you achieve a target crankcase vacuum you actually want to close all crankcase ventilation flow to give crankcase filters a chance to work and for all the oil to stop clogging up crankcase breathers. Hopefully by the time the crankcase gets back to atmospheric things the oil isn't sloshing straight up into the ports of the block breathers so there's less oil spitting out of the breathers.

Agreed, you need airbag codes first and foremost.

Start by load testing the battery. If the internal resistance is too high and the energy capacity too low it won't provide the amps needed to crank. From there start measuring voltage at the battery terminals vs at the engine bay where the power goes in. If the voltage drop is substantial especially when cranking you relocated it wrong somehow.

Let's just skip the middleman here and convince BMW to make a mirrored version of their B58 that is somehow direct fit for RB applications.

Pros: you have some rare discontinued JDM tyte mod in your car Cons: it's a parasitic battery drain that does nothing at best

I agree with Duncan's advice which is start by capping off the the recirculating valves so they don't open and see if that fixes the issue. If that works you can start by replacing the rubber hoses. There's one hose that goes from the air chamber to the BOV in the fender which is going to be feeling for it blind. Then it branches off to a Y inside the fender and then two more hoses which shouldn't be too bad to figure out. Keep in mind blocking the bypass valve will cause some weird behavior due to reversion so don't drive it like that too long.

It might be the stock BOVs are done for? I don't think I experience this behavior which would be super obvious on expressway driving. ~3200 RPM going uphill getting into boost is really not unusual for these cars. It is very doughy around 3000 RPM. Turbosmart makes direct replacements in the factory location that you can cap the atmospheric vents on as seen here: https://www.turbosmart.com/product/ts-0203-1072/ If you can actually diagnose it as failed I would probably go straight to those because they actually open all the way unlike the OEM valves which have surprisingly little travel.

You can try DIY Auto Tune, they make the MegaSquirt ECUs and I would be shocked if they sold counterfeit coils which are extremely common for the IGN-1A. Counterfeits will have awful spark energy.

I'm much more positive on downsized turbos these days. Probably not a fan of these V6 turbos because they're a packaging nightmare but an I6 turbo vs modern NA GDI DOHC V8 is pretty comparable these days in terms of general pain in the neck for some reason.

The MAF isn't even used to get the engine to crank over. It's only looking at RPM and coolant temperature if I recall the Nistune documentation correctly.

The reversion issue is very real if you decide to go without any BOV. Or if the OEM bypass valves decide to stick closed from age. I have heard this badly impacts the resulting tailpipe emissions. The hot film MAFs are supposed to fix this by only measuring airflow in one direction.

In my experience it affects idle, it definitely uses the VSS signal to raise the idle target and adjust the open loop AAC duty cycle or something like that. If you push the clutch in while moving it will idle closer to 1200 rpm before very slowly dropping down to 950 rpm. More often than not you need to get it into neutral and make sure the neutral switch actually triggers by wiggling the shifter in neutral before it'll finally decide to drop the idle down.

Isn't that a slightly modified rebranded G42-1450? The GTIII-SS as far as I can tell really is an MHI TD04HL somehow adapted to fit a compact 5 bolt RB26 application.

If the rear diff cover is finned and your gauge cluster has an A-LSD warning light you have the A-LSD.

IIRC a lot of these Japanese chip tunes tend to have epoxy all over the ROM chip because they didn't want to make it too easy for their maps to get dumped. If the board isn't ruined by all that then Nistune is a pretty easy way to get a map figured out if only to reset timing/fueling for local fuel quality.

Good to hear. Any air bubbles in the system will drastically affect A-LSD and ATTESA response time. I personally have never noticed the ATTESA reservoir doing what you said either.

The only reason I can imagine going for cast is if you want very tight p2w clearance. I'd have to check again to be sure but I'm pretty confident a 4032 forged piston like Mahle or Tomei is on par with OEM cast for p2w clearance spec.

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g1127754625 Appears to be discontinued so... that's a bummer

Do some ECU logging. Consult cable + Nissan Data Scan 1. Try to record a 14 psi pull then a 7-10 psi pull. Make sure you record airflow + airflow RH, throttle, RPM, injector, ignition timing, and wastegate solenoid. If the solenoid indicates it's on in both cases and you aren't on knock maps then my first suspicion is the wiring to the solenoid might be intermittent. Next step from there is to unplug the ECU, get some long wires and verify the wiring from the ECU to the solenoid maintains solid contact/low resistance, jiggle the wires while probing to see if it drops out at all. If all of that checks out you should try capping the plenum to wastegate hose, then test with 3/5/7/10 psi regulated pressure and figure out the minimum pressure needed to barely move the wastegate actuator, then how much is needed to really get it to swing open. The R32 engine manual has a more specific spec for these things but if it's like 8-9 psi to really get it to swing open then it's fine. You can try putting as much as 20 psi into the wastegate actuators to see if it opens smoothly and doesn't make weird noises/rattles. If none of those things are conclusive try removing the intake piping enough to look at both turbo inlets. Or the turbo outlets in the exhaust if you prefer removing the down pipe and turbo outlets. Make sure nothing is damaged, no shaft play, etc. If none of that figures it out then I dunno. Post back and I can noodle on this more.

TPS input voltage being higher than the ATTESA expects will cause weirdness for sure. Also goes to show diagnosing these faults is never a dull moment it seems.

It's worth it because you can flip it for 1400 USD on Americans that can't look up part numbers for some reason.

Didn't Nismo just announce they're making these? https://www.nismo.co.jp/news_list/2024/news_flash/24005.html

Right, I'd need to be able to log exactly where the stock ECU is in the fuel tables to see where it's actually going into high load enrichment but it doesn't take much of a grade in my experience to start getting into positive pressure. God forbid you're closer to 80 kph, the reserve torque margin gets very thin around 2000 RPM, 2800 IIRC is min BSFC according to Nissan's dyno data. The R34 GTR 3.545 is to some extent compensating for the shorter 6th gear, roughly equivalent to a 3.7 with the FS5R30A.

My math did put it right around 3.7 final drive being about ideal for highway cruise but it doesn't really consider anything else. I thought about doing similar on an R33 GTR but I find myself using pretty much all of the reserve torque in fifth quite often. The spacing between 3rd and 4th is also kind of strangely small while the gap between 2nd and 3rd is huge. The other thought I had was final drive ratio changes requiring speed sensor recalibration so I mostly gave up on those thoughts. PAR engineering also offers a 0.7 5th gear. I still don't really know if their ratios are the way to go or the more common stuff like PPG/OS Giken/etc.