joshuaho96

Only reason why I'm skeptical of poly bushings is because they can make a lot of noise, for now I'm just running the Nismo rubber bushings. I'm still unclear on why the various poly bushing vendors out there crosslist the R34 and R33/R32 GTR radius rod bushing when Nissan does not.

Not if the timing belt somehow is misaligned upon installation. How someone managed that I'll never know but that was one time where the clear cover paid off.

Clear timing belt covers can be useful, someone local to me recently discovered their timing belt was hanging on by threads because of it and got a tow home instead driving home and snapping it entirely.

You may be able to get the bushing for them if you're willing to do a lot of digging and experimentation. As far as I can tell they look an awful lot like the R33/R32 GTR tension rod bushings. The trouble is Nismo does not cross-list compatibility for those bushings with the R34 GTR. To me this implies that they are in fact a different spec. If you are willing to convert to R33 GTR/R34 N1 spec lower control arm + tension rods then the bushing is 54476-RS580 if you want the Nismo part, 54476-05U00 if you want Nissan OEM. Unlike the street-spec R34 aluminum control arm these are steel and increase unsprung weight but they are adjustable. Nismo sells this conversion still if you want the silver paint and Nismo logo under part number 54460-RRR45. If you look at the Nissan parts diagram they mention explicitly that the "components are not for sale" so this will be an uphill battle. The easiest way if you can just parts cannon your way out of this is to buy the now Nismo Heritage part number for the whole control arm, LH is 54501-RHR40, RH is 54500-RHR40. https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/bnr34/3957-rb26dett/trans/401/54501/

I don’t know how it’s actually set up from the factory. My license plate holder was missing when imported. My middle license plate bolt is broken off inside the bumper. The usual old car problems. The mesh is fully behind the bumper, and the top clip I hooked it over the end of the middle bolt, if someone actually knows how it’s supposed to be from the factory I’d like to know.

I'm pretty sure that AEM 340 lph/DW300/Aeromotive 340 lph are all really the same factory making roughly the same pump give or take. You could replace it just for fun but failures of this stuff tend to be a bathtub curve, you could get unlucky and get a DOA/early failure. If you're at the other extreme of lifetime for your existing pump then it still probably makes sense to get a new pump in there despite the chance of getting a bad pump.

DW300s tend to be hit or miss AFAIK, so if you have a good one just keep running it.

I pulled the metal clip you're describing up and over the middle bolt that goes through the license plate and into the bumper. Seems to work ok.

If this is a purely aesthetic thing I recommend not bothering. Multiple times now people have forgotten to torque + threadlock their cam gears to spec with the correct timing and they've trashed their heads when it loosens and allows cam timing to hit the extremes of advance/retard.

My vote is DW440 brushless if you're going to bother with a new fuel pump. Brushless reduces your alternator power requirements and can pump E85 with no derate to lifespan unlike brushed pumps.

The NEO engines have VCT on the intake cam. So unless you delete that whole oil-fed system you would need a different intake cam gear to be able to vary the intake cam timing. Keep in mind you must test the system at both extremes unless you want to potentially let pistons meet valves when the cam is advanced. Exhaust cam should be the same either way.

Japanese auctions tend to be a whole lot of garbage these days. I don't know why you think that matters. It was bad 4-5 years ago and has only gotten worse as these cars get older, the grading gets more lenient, and the bottom of the barrel is getting scraped harder and harder. There's a bit of market softness as everyone gets nervous about a recession in the US but that's a welcome respite given the past 2-3 years that has been absolutely insane.

I still have no idea where the market will be going. R34s haven't even become legal to import into the US yet and thus far as every generation became legal to import into the US they had a significant bump in price. At the same time though people have known this was coming and I know a ton of people that bought an R34 GTR years ago and have had it stored overseas pending US import. I do expect things to settle down as everything shakes out circa 2027-2030 timeframe. Just in time for the first ICE bans to start.

Show me these clean R32 GTRs that are dropping in price back to 30k USD even. 50k+ is the norm for these cars now. Used to be you could get a collector-grade example for 70k even with inflated dealer pricing. Now it's more like 140k. The stuff on BaT that sells for 20-30k are major projects that will easily require 80k+ in work with the skyrocketing cost of parts and labor. If you ask Hagerty which actually collects information on how much people paid for their cars at auction and through private sales due to their agreed value policies the average price the price of R32 GTRs has jumped by an eye-popping 40% year over year. Youtubers are idiots for the most part and don't have their finger on the pulse of the market like the insurance companies and dealers do. Prices at auction have dropped, but this is because people are buying worse condition cars. You can see just from the Hagerty valuation guide alone that there is nearly a 4x jump between the worst condition they'll assign a value to and the best condition. The problem with crappy cars is that because parts are so expensive and getting discontinued it's becoming much, much harder to refurbish them correctly. Is it possible for prices to drop like a rock in the near future? Maybe. But when you have youtubers destroying these cars for clout I have strong doubts that the supply of these cars will remain high enough to allow a drop in demand to drag prices down back to what they were even 2 years ago.

At least we got there in the end, never a straightforward fix with these cars it seems.

If you want a clean one Garage Yoshida sells incredibly clean cars. Really doesn't hide anything either: https://www.garage-yoshida.net/car/ I doubt it will be cheaper than buying one already landed but I've yet to see a single seller of these cars that will pull the engine and do basically a full gasket/hose/etc refresh before putting it up for sale. In the US usually if that happens it's because they realized they screwed up the rebuild and they want to pawn it off on someone else before it becomes too obvious that the engine needs to be pulled apart again.

Test the line pressure to see if the pressure switch can be trusted. If the switch triggers at the factory spec then you can probably trust that it's working all the time. Jiggle the wiring to see if the signal is dropping out due to a harness problem. From there see if the pump is turning clicking on more often than it should. If the pump is running all the time and you aren't leaking fluid somewhere the problem is likely the canister has leaked its nitrogen charge. I recommend whenever the light comes on you should figure out where the ATTESA control unit is and check the code yourself. Would suck to spend 465 AUD only for that to not be your problem. Could be something else entirely.

You would buy a new one unless you really want to refurbish it as some kind of special exercise. Nissan still sells them. On some cars they’re easy to access but on others it can be a big pain in the neck.

Yeah, if the pressure switch is working correctly the most plausible explanation is your nitrogen canister/accumulator is dead.

Dumb idea but what if you use some refrigerant out of an air duster can upside down to cool the axle instead of trying to heat it? I did that with my rear block heater pipe and it helped it work loose.

Do you have something like this to help you push the axle out?

I'm pretty sure you're right, it's for the V35 and V36. In the V37 I guess it went away.

The other concern is that the dinky factory FPR cannot flow very much and if you're trying to push 300 lph of fuel through it while only injecting enough fuel to idle you will overshoot the FPR target fuel pressure.

If the system is called 4WAS by Nissan it does. I guess it's fair to say what's actually happening is that it's silently adding the 4WS steering angle change to your steering input through a gearbox and so it's technically still coupling the steering wheel to the wheels directly. You can see it in this system diagram:

In fairness, the R33 GTR and R34 GTR added a yaw sensor at least to make the HICAS have some kind of closed loop control. It still doesn't make it a great system, but less egregiously trying to send you off the road like I've heard from multiple R32 owners. If the yaw sensor fails from age you can get interesting behavior as well, there's no redundancies in the system.