joshuaho96

This is worth thinking about, personally I hate worrying about whether the inductive loop or whatever is all set up correctly. I just use a spark plug wire on cylinder 1 instead.

I still can't believe of all the things BMW managed to screw up on that engine it was a vacuum-driven wastegate actuator.

Have you actually verified TDC cylinder 1 is where the balancer says it is? Has this engine been rebuilt at all?

This is true, but the threat of the HICAS system sending me off the road is half the fun on these cars. It's kind of like people buying really old iPhones. They're just garbage in every way but for some reason new in box iPhone 2Gs are selling for 40k USD these days.

That's for the driver side airbag controller. The airbag module in the center console runs the passenger side airbag. If you want to eliminate the driver side airbag controller you need to swap to a series 2/3 wheel and the module that they use in the center console + any harness changes. Most of this stuff is long discontinued.

I doubt it's a lack of knowledge/technology at this point keeping rear axle steering out of racing. Porsche has pretty well figured it all out at this point to the extent that nobody recommends disabling it on track. It also helps that they figured out how to predict the exact problem that people complain about, the HICAS "fighting" them at the limit. The closer you get to the limit of traction in a Porsche the more it attenuates the rear axle steer so there's no strange feeling when you try to drift it. Also, Porsche owners are just way more obsessive. R32/R33 GTRs prior to Americans hyping them up to be the second coming were mostly abused by Canadians too cheap to do anything the right way as winter beaters because they had AWD. I would also consider pulling out all the major electrical modules at this point and checking for dead capacitors in basically anything that can be opened up safely. HICAS just doesn't have that many protections. If anything in the chain from the suspension/steering rack to sensors to the controller logic board is faulty it can absolutely do surprising things that can be downright dangerous. I already had every last bushing and ball joint replaced but I still wonder if I need to crack open the HICAS CU and yaw sensor to replace all the electrolytic caps.

The best part is that Nissan doubled down on it with 4WAS in the V35/V36 Skylines which actually also took away control of the front wheels from you as well to fix some weird issue they had with only steering the rear axle.

Good point, I forget Nissan distinguishes all of these things with weird subtle naming differences. Isn't the R32 also technically Super HICAS though?

As far as I know there's actually a yaw sensor in the back of the R33 and R34 GTR which is used for HICAS. It vaguely helps maybe. In practice the R33 and R34 group N cars AFAIK kept the yaw sensor but deleted the HICAS and fed the signal into the ATTESA/ABS controller instead to control the A-LSD.

I have had two separate R32 owners tell me about 2-3 incidents where they were either in a turn and the HICAS was trying to make the car go straight or they were going straight and the rear end was crabbing out to try and make the car turn. Neither could get it to reproduce again afterwards. It absolutely destroys confidence in a car when the system can randomly misbehave like that. My R33 doesn't do that but I have heard of bad yaw sensors causing behavior like the rear end crabbing out under braking or excessive vibration/exhaust noise doing something similar as well. The R32 doesn't have any form of feedback control and as far as I can tell the HICAS is really far more aggressive compared to the R33.

Almost every I know with an R32 GTR has some story about the HICAS trying to steer them in an unintended direction. The R33s seem more reliable in that regard. I'm pretty sure my HICAS is not locked out and I can't even really tell if it's working or not.

I can get it to idle at 800 rpm if I wanted to, but the engine feels rough and genuinely unhappy to be there if you put any load at all on it. Not like my LS400 which will happily idle at 400 RPM if you put it in drive.

Idle target on the emissions sticker says 950 rpm with 20 degrees of timing. I probably need a new harmonic balancer but I get nasty vibrations much below 800 rpm. I'm pretty sure the AAC also contributes to cold start airflow looking at the Consult logs, it just needs the extra help courtesy of the cold start valve. I'm probably not explaining it too well but the cold start idle target at 20C coolant temp is something like 1400 RPM, then if you start slipping the clutch and don't give it any throttle to compensate for the drop in RPM the ECU reacts by really opening up the AAC valve and keeping it there. Pressing the clutch pedal in it's not unusual in my experience to see it hit 1800 RPM until I wiggle the shifter in neutral enough for the neutral switch to work and the ECU to slowly drop the idle back down. Anti stall in hindsight was definitely the wrong word for it, that's more like a clutch position sensor that will raise the idle proactively instead of reactively. It's more like the idle control is very willing to try and catch a falling idle and is not that quick to deal with a high idle. I have dreams of finishing a Haltech base map eventually. No tuner is going to bother with my weird obsessions so I'm going to have to DIY all of this.

I run factory ride height + suspension. The car already barely fits the floor jack under it and my local roads are not good enough to lower it any more. It's not aesthetically pleasing but that's life.

OBD2 always has battery voltage present on some of the pins. I'm willing to bet someone shorted something or damaged it.

I'm pretty confident I have the stock clutch in my R33. It is far and away the most forgiving clutch I've ever driven. The aggressive anti-stall + factory 950 rpm idle also makes it hilariously easy to get going even without throttle application in first. The slip zone feels a mile wide. The vacuum assisted clutch master also makes it feel lighter than something like an S2000. The factory idle control is probably not intended to be anti-stall or anything like that but it reacts to persistent low idle by ratcheting up the AAC duty cycle to max which gets you to like 1400-1500 rpm and even higher when the engine is cold and the cold start valve is still open.

NZEFI is in NZ, so it's 705 NZD.

Keep in mind the factory rail is 10.5mm, you need adapters like this: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-980cc-1100cc-fuel-injector-kit-x6-rb26-gtr-r or this: https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

Don't buy those DW 1000cc injectors, they look like EV1s. Get the Bosch 040 980cc injectors instead, EV14s are readily available and dramatically better. You do not need an aftermarket fuel rail for the kind of power you're talking about, but if you intend on running a 400 lph pump at full speed without using something to slow it down then you will need a big FPR like the Aeromotive you listed. If you're doing the timing belt you should always do the water pump as well. Those two go together. Not as mandatory as it is on a BMW or Porsche where the pump will explode the second you get past 75k miles but you still don't want to play the odds.

0.6 to 0.7 bar is still low if you've bypassed the solenoid and you're venting the wastegate vacuum line to atmosphere. Have you checked how much exhaust backpressure you have?

The R33/R34 lost the valve on the heater core due to cost cutting. Their grand solution to this problem is to simply keep airflow from going through the heater core with the blend door. One thing I've noticed is that the cabin on the R33 feels like it warms up more than it should and I suspect the lack of a valve to keep the heater core from warming up the dash is probably part of it.

At least on the R33 GTR it seems to me that the factory cat EGT sensor is towards the back of the car, you can see the wire sticking out of this one:

Unless you're putting a wet clutch DCT or a ZF6HP or ZF8HP manual is the way to go. Automatics that don't have the lockup clutch running in all forward gears and modern shift logic are just really frustrating on something nominally meant to be high performance.

Basically yes, if you disconnect the FPCM and ground pin 4 and 6 on the connector you have bypassed the factory FPCM. If the pump gets power from the fuel pump relay it will run full power immediately. You can see the same idea discussed for Z32s here: https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/FPCU_Bypass_(2-Seater) If the pump isn't running then it's safe to say that something is wrong with the ECU. Initial key-on should cause it to beep as Duncan mentioned. Then it will shut off after an initial prime. I would also verify that this isn't a NATS issue or something.

Open up the ECU. Verify that nothing is burned, no caps have dumped their dielectric or burst. To eliminate the FPCM to narrow down the ECU as the fault you can bridge pins 4 and 6 on the FPCM connector directly to ground. If bypassing the FPCM like this does not change the behavior then you know the ECU has failed. As for how someone could have damaged the ECU this way I don't really know. It is possible someone grounded something improperly and is putting way, way too much current through the ECU ground planes which can cause things to break. Not all ground points are equal, see this explainer to get an idea for what I'm talking about: https://www.haltech.com/news-events/ecu-grounding-the-dos-and-donts/