joshuaho96

Make sure the TP limit settings are sane for your load scale, I don't really expect it to have been messed with but you never know.

Aren't -9s discontinued? Probably could get a solid 80-90% of what they went for when new if they have very little use on them.

That will do it yes.

Judging by the damage on the back it's been touched before but normally a chipped ECU will have a big glob of epoxy on it to keep people from being able to dump the ROM. So if it is chipped it isn't by someone that is all that concerned about things like that.

https://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.4271/03-12-01-0001 Methodology to me seemed sane, up to you whether you believe the Q factor metric they used to decide the best performing though.

Mega thread bump but I found an SAE study where someone actually bought a ton of air oil separators and catch cans and tested them to see their pressure drop with respect to flow rate and filtration efficiency. The ProVent had comparable pressure drop to the catch cans with mesh/filtration media in the 50 mbar range when wet while achieving dramatically higher filtration efficiency. Crankcase ventilation seems to be a major problem with the RB and I suspect having the right kind of crankcase filtration will go a long way to helping things.

If you have verified that the master and slave cylinder are working as expected all I can think of is something is wrong with how the clutch was put together. Either that or you somehow have a pressure plate so strong that it's damaging everything and you should probably stop using it before you destroy your thrust bearings.

It's probably multiple issues, not just one. Check for vacuum leaks and boost leaks as others have mentioned. Also, generally speaking diagnosing issues in an EFI car without logs from the ECU is going to be a lot of wild guessing.

There have been more than a few GTRs imported to the US where people blew up their engines running 91 AKI with a Mine's or similar Japanese chip tune. I suppose that proves the point though.

I would also recommend whatever you do you get cams that retain the NVCS. Being able to swing the cam even if it's fixed 15 degrees of advance is well worth the effort.

8.5mm is designed to be drop-in, probably won't be anything much to write home about but it will presumably do something.

The seller wanted 530k for it. Couldn't make this up if I tried.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1999-nissan-skyline-gt-r-9 Good for a laugh, the 315k bid sounds like an inside job to try and generate hype but I don't think they were expecting people to have eyes.

But how? I don't see a stage 20 kit available that guarantees 1500 whp

1100 lph is wild overkill for most applications, Deatschwerks has a 440 lph brushless with install kit for S14/S15 Silvia and comparable vehicles.

I second the recommendation to use a power bleeder. Pressure on the cap, if you want you can try some vacuum on the bleeder too with a hand pump. Pressure is needed on the cap to make sure that everything only goes one direction instead of potentially getting air sucked into the bleeder.

I'm confused, isn't the flow rate at a given oil pressure determined by the engine rather than the pump fitted to it? I would guess that a high flow pump will just mean more oil pressure at idle but not necessarily more oil pressure otherwise. Assuming it was already hitting the oil pressure limit for the regulator.

Yeah it was a little confusing as stream of consciousness. To be clear I’m referring to a failure in a NEO turbo where you have another MAP sensor or something similar teed with the OEM MAP sensor for whatever reason.

It will work when it works, the problem is what happens when it doesn't work. The failure mode of the FPR hose popping off is bad news if you get into boost. If you tee it off the factory boost gauge instead in most RBs it's just a gauge instead of being used in the ECU. Even in the turbo NEOs the failure mode is not as bad as it would otherwise be, the ECU uses MAFs primarily and the MAP sensor is mostly for transient handling and overboost protection.

Do not T off the fuel pressure regulator. I hate this practice. With the OEM setup there are two points of failure where the hose can slip and cause a catastrophic lean-out. If you T the hose you have added 4 additional points of failure. If you have to use a boost/vacuum reference, it's best to tee off the same line that the OEM boost gauge runs off of.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/engine/211/ https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/ecr33/3909-rb25det/electric/278/ The hose on the left closest to the firewall is a heater core pipe. It also goes to the oil/coolant heat exchanger and the throttle body. The hose it attaches to is 92400, which is the upper heater core hose. The one to the right of that goes to the lower heater core hose. In the absence of proper photos at each step showing how everything is laid out from the factory the EPC is as good as it gets.

Good to know, they looked identical but I'm always reluctant to say whether they are truly identical if the part numbers don't line up.

I suspect the R32 GTR is not a perfect interchange, R33 should be though. A surprising number of suspension revisions occurred between the R32 and R33. It vaguely looks like the same general design but almost all of the actual parts are different numbers and the upper control arm especially has been noticeably redesigned.

As far as I can tell these are replacing their GTII turbos which I'm having trouble figuring out the actual origin of. They're still selling the GTIII turbos. They are admitting that if you want the kind of power that twin GT-RS/GTIII-RS turbos provide you should be going for a Garrett single turbo instead. Weirdly enough in their chart for a full drag build RB28 the power difference between their twin GTII turbo and the single GT turbo is not much to write home about, you'd imagine they would try and figure out something more noteworthy to show for marketing purposes: They also plan on releasing T25 and T4 flange variants and there's clearly a twin scroll manifold pictured when they mention "GT turbine setup kit for RB26".

The R34 GTR in specific (all but N1 spec) had a special lower aluminum lower control arm that combined the "transverse link" with the radius rod into a single non-adjustable piece. You can see it in the linked parts diagram, they have the N1 part which has the same design as the R33 with the separate transverse link and a radius rod that bolts into that and the normal R34 GTR part. As mentioned earlier Nismo actually sells this conversion with a bit of extra welding and a coat of silver paint for big money. So I am skeptical that sites listing the same bushing for both generations without qualification. If I ever do need to replace a bushing I'll probably do more research but that's probably immaterial to what OP is asking about.