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Everything posted by joshuaho96

  1. I would not count on the federal government being able to do anything for you in particular, this is mostly a fight over CA's new car emissions requirements (LEV III by 2020) + ZEV marketshare from 4.5% in 2018 to 22% by 2025. The EPA doesn't regulate direct import beyond the 21 year rule for EPA compliance, other states have 25 year rule for smog exemption. CA's smog check is by far the most draconian but there's nothing really stopping them from requiring smog check every 2 years for all cars made after 1976. 1994-2003 emissions standards are also the same for both CA and federal, tier 1 limits are identical. The federal government and CA are on the same page here so really the state is just enforcing federal law by requiring you to meet tier 1 emissions. Federal law also mandated OBD2 in 1996 so technically CA is just enforcing federal law again. It's just that other states aren't interested in doing so due to time and cost constraints. Don't get me wrong, I would love to import a series 2 or 3 instead of a series 1 but I think it's important to be realistic. Forgot to mention this but keep in mind that the EPA technically does not allow you to modify any emissions control systems in a car regardless of age. EGR deletes, decat, DPF delete, SCR delete, smog pump deletes, thermostatic air cleaner delete, evap delete, etc... are all illegal in the US. The only reason why anyone gets away with this stuff is because the state they live in doesn't care to actually enforce the law and the federal EPA doesn't have the resources to chase down individuals like this. California doesn't even enforce these laws in some counties, if you live in a very rural area smog only happens upon sale. Personally my assessment is even regardless of enforcement, we should be mindful of the emissions that gasoline engines produce. Unburned gasoline vapors are acutely toxic in high concentration and carcinogenic at lower ones, NOx damages your lungs, PM2.5 gets into your brain and can cause early onset dementia, and carbon monoxide is pretty universally understood to be bad for you. Keeping catalytic converters on does not cost as much power as it might seem.
  2. I don't see anything that makes this better than a Haltech Elite on an RB26 equipped GTR. But I'm more interested in features like whether the ECU has proper long term ignition trim. AFAIK Haltech has something pretty simple, every knock count per engine cycle it removes half a degree or something similar where it knocked. It won't try to advance timing back to the original map, you have to manually zero out the changes if you did something like put 95 octane in when you tuned for 98 or 100. I'm also interested in stuff like whether the ECU supports a dual MAF configuration, the Link only supports a single MAF, Haltech supports dual MAF as far as I know. Or whether they support the stock FPCM, ATTESA ETS TPS output, AC, etc. Any extra functionality is just a nice plus.
  3. Major thread bump. Rebuilding a Nissan 5 speed is not that expensive, you will save money vs a 6 speed conversion. Keep in mind if you want to have proper gear ratio spread you need to convert to a Nismo 3.9 final drive on the differentials, otherwise the gearing is excessively short for a street car. If you have a lot of money to blow on making the perfect street car then sure, a 6 speed Getrag conversion with either 3.7 or 3.9 final drive on the front and rear diffs would make the best of the fairly laggy RB26. But if budget is a concern then I would just rebuild the 5 speed and try my best to widen the powerband of the RB first.
  4. https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/goo/16/700070889930190903001.html Maybe worth a look? Not a lot of photos of the critical parts like the undercarriage + engine bay.
  5. https://www.goo-net.com/usedcar/spread/goo/16/700070889930190903001.html 4M yen is 55k AUD not including cost to bring it in the country.
  6. The value of the 6 DoF IMU is basically to provide yaw rate and lateral g in a single box here. The problem is where does the yaw rate signal even go? Not helped by the lack of any documentation on installation here. Another plausible explanation is to artificially amp up the lateral g signal to ATTESA when yaw over a certain threshold is detected. But you need to be able to adjust those thresholds because the R32, R33, and R34 ATTESA maps are all different. The DTM II is adjustable for this reason. Only yaw input I'm aware of is in the R33 and R34 for Super HICAS.
  7. A proper mobile website is a lot better than the cancer that is Tapatalk.
  8. If nobody here is interested you could try Bring a Trailer. It's an auction site and prices tend to be closer to what the market will bear instead of some arbitrary randomness from time/location.
  9. The intention with "OBD1" is to refer to pre-OBD2 diagnostics that were OEM-specific like Consult. The 300ZX TT in the US at least would go to wastegate pressure if it detected knock. Common PPI inspection point is to see if the engine builds the specced boost. If it maxes out the stock gauge the car has been tuned, if it shows less than nominal boost then the ECU detected det or a malfunction.
  10. Modern turbo cars will be specced to run 98 RON but will also get by on 91. The instant they detect detonation they run the 91 RON tables. There will be a slow ramp back towards 98 but it takes multiple tanks of 98. If you interrogate a modern ECU with the right scan tools it will tell you the estimated octane/quality for each tank of fuel. If you live in California like me then the ECU will reliably complain about low quality fuel but the car will continue to run without audible knock. I'm sure the RB26's OBD1 8 or 16 bit ECU is not nearly as advanced but even back in those days those ECUs would run wastegate pressure and altered timing/fueling tables when they detected knock.
  11. Indeed, why would you do that? OEMs tune their engines to run 98 too. The CR, cams, everything is designed to maximize efficiency and power with 98. The problem is you have people that take their brand new car and then decide to save a few dollars and put 91 in it. Even though that is an incredibly stupid idea people do it anyways. Another possibility is that you get a batch of bad gas or you drive out into the middle of nowhere and 91 is your only option. A good tune needs to account for those possibilities and be able to protect the engine if it's a street car. If you're going full race and you're only ever going to pour fresh race gas into the tank then sure knock protection doesn't matter but these are real issues to think about for a street car.
  12. Fill the car with 91 from an empty tank and do a few full throttle pulls if you want to find out just how good the tune really is. OEM tunes and engines are built assuming that you will put in 91 RON at some point, maybe even indefinitely. They have to survive however many det events it takes for the ECU to pull timing to a safe level and keep running reliably without making EGTs go through the roof despite retarded ignition timing and rich fuel mixtures. I personally do not have a great deal of trust in most tuners. From what I have seen many tunes out there are not very refined.
  13. r33gt-r.com is his blog. A lot of interesting background on the R33, various mods, etc. He's currently a lawyer at Nissan so he's slowed down on the posts but it's been pretty interesting through the years.
  14. If you follow Aki's blog at all Ohlins are definitely the way to go. They are quite stiff already, there is more to suspension than raw spring rate. For bumpy roads excessively high spring rates will cause the car to have worse characteristics. Nismo uses Ohlins DFVs for their N-Attack Pack and CRS package so I think the dampers + springs are well validated.
  15. Most of the point of the VSpec is the suspension and A-LSD. Not much else to write home about. If you do go with coilovers I would suggest the Ohlins Road & Track.
  16. "Full forge" engines are nothing to write home about. You get more strength to take more power yes, but it's not a magic bullet. Any detonation event when you push that hard (250+ hp/L) is going to be catastrophic. Keep in mind that forged engines need higher clearances as well, that means it's more likely that you'll get piston slap on cold start and increased wear. A stock RB25 can go hundreds of thousands of km before needing a rebuild if it isn't abused. If you don't really know what you're doing and you want a warranty, stay conservative.
  17. The Nistune ECU assumes a constant fuel pressure, you need to duty cycle the pump at lower RPM/load if you don't want to run rich there. You might be able to tune around that problem but generally speaking you want to avoid confounding variables in your fuel tables as much as possible.
  18. Yeah, it's tough. People want to sell off their junk and want to mislead people on the condition.
  19. Looks amazing underneath there. I'd love to see photos/details as well, I just missed this due to work in the past few days.
  20. Shouldn't be anything legal, it's been popular in Japan for a while now to import stuff like 240Zs from desert states in the US or mostly dry areas like California back to Japan. The dry climates make rust less likely, even if UV aging is worse it's mostly just an issue of repainting the car.
  21. I think California is a crazy place to live for reasons other than just grey market import laws. If you want a house near work here be prepared to pony up 1.2 million dollars for a 2 bedroom townhouse with a tandem garage, even more if you want to be within biking distance. Traffic is unbelievable but driving is often the only way to get work. I used to have a commute that was ~45 minutes without traffic but turned to 75-90 minutes with traffic from 7 AM to 9:30 AM and 4 PM to 7:30 PM, sometimes even longer if people were especially bad at driving that day. But people stay in this crazy place because many of the high paying jobs are here.
  22. R33 GTS25ts in Australia have a kind of similar reputation so...
  23. There's some guy in Japan looking for a clean, mostly stock 1995 R33:
  24. Those diffusers are cosmetic, that's for sure. If you want any effect you want both a front and rear diffuser, preferably covering the entire bottom of the car. For a rear diffuser consider sourcing the R34 VSpec diffuser, it is pretty close to bolt-on. Front diffuser is more difficult though.
  25. The hard part will be swapping out the turbos + intake components. The HKS ECU to my knowledge does not require tearing up the harness, it's a plug and play ECU. It also mentions repair history. Even if you don't buy it, I think checking out that car + Garage Defend's car will help.
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