docang

Try checking the coil harness as sometimes they give problems especially the connectors as they are prone to get loose after some years of connecting and disconnecting and also greatly affected by the engine heat. Even after 2-3months on a third new coil harness my engine was intermittently misfiring and my mechanic did some mods to the connectors by trimming some plastic bits in them for better contact and this cured the misfirings. Leaky valve covers gaskets will also let oil get to the plugs causing misfiring and this happened to me just this past week.

Sorry not in my own words hence the 'qte' and 'unqte'......

Sori guys the inside story abt this race: Qte 1st 2 runs:The GTR let the Civic start first and was way out of his power band at 2000+rpm 2nd gear and still lost by only 1/2 car length. If they had both started in 1st gear or 2nd gear in the GTR's powerband, the GTR would have won by a HUGE distance, hence they raced under such conditions. 3rd run: The GTR tried starting in 1st gear but revs were too high and he hit the rev limiter instantly while the Civic just pulled away. He tried to catch the Civic but gave up after 3rd gear. Facts: Civic never ran 2.0 bar of boost, was running 1.6 bar all the way. The GTR was on STOCK ECU but de-limited with Mine's exhaust. It for sure did not have the Mine's ECU if not would have probably won Unqte

Tks Gary, well noted. Cheers Mate! Daniel

I've got a R34 gtt and may need to rebuild the engine later next yr with a short block and able to source a new stock 32gtr crankshaft for a good price. The question is whether the R32 RB26 crankshaft is suitable for the neo RB25det engine with stock R34 gtt pistons and rods? Thanks guys for any advice.

Hi Dan, Appreciate if you can advise whether the final drive gear and pinion gear from the ER34 rear diff can be swopped over to fit into the S15 rear diff housing. Tks.

Tks Fab, That sure helps a lot & save me a long trip over to the next country to get the R33 diff. Understand from Dan666 the rear diff from the S15 Silvia will fit in nicely and the only doubt here will be the final drive ratio which differs.

Hi Fab, So did the R33 diff fit your R34 subframe as i may only be able to get my hands on a R33 rear diff for replacement. Thanks Daniel

Hi Dan, Just check with you - any issues with the S15 diff box in respects of the final drive ratio and the helical lsd components being different with the R34's(viscous lsd) - is there a need to swap ovr the final drive and if there's any effects on the autobox's ecu? Thanks!

For the R34 GTt the brembos off a R34 GTR will fit in nicely but not a R33's. Whereas the S15 can fit in the R33's but not the R34's.

Thanks Dan, Was flipping back thru past threads and got to pg.42 before seeing your post! Haha Understand need to use back the R34 half shafts and only concern is the final drive ratio for the S15 being 3.692 as against 4.083 & worried that the pinion and crown on my diff could be worn after 300,000km causing loud 'hummings' even after changing to Cusco semi-syn 80-140 lsd oil.

Hi Nolan, so did the R33 diff fit the R34 or u hv found an alternative.... I also need to replace the 'whirring' rear diff of my Gtt auto which has a final ratio: 4.083 Thanks Daniel

Repost: Yep the GT-R cud be priced around AUD150k ovr at your end and here in Spore its gonna cost at least SIN$288K but then its already on the road here: http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/Asian_Make...%21%21_P2166566 Dont know the number allocated for Spore but one importer have at least 16units on order and delivery slated for Jan '08.

Yep the GT-R cud be priced around AUD150k ovr at your end and here in Spore its gonna cost at least SIN$288K but then its already on the road here: http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/Asian_Make...%21%21_P2166566 Dont know the number allocated for Spore but one importer have at least 16units on order and delivery slated for Jan '08.

Another test drive of the gtr: http://www.autoweek.com/ autoweek_com.htm

Could be your caster rods or if its aftermarket then it will be the pillow tension rods. Check also the tie rods.

Hi mates, I've a R34 Gtt and last month changed rear rotors, brake shoes and pads and bleed brake fluid. Everthing was fine until just this week the brake pedal have become harder to press and when cold or low speed it can be difficult for the pads to bite and stop. When cruising on highway the effect is not too bad and able to slow/stop the car in time. Suspect its got something to do with the brake booster and if I need to replace it can I get the booster from a R34 GTR? The car's done abt 300K since I got it in '99. Thanks for any advice and comment.

I've a gtt auto and its now having starting difficulties. Initially its was just the wiring to cas which was temporary rewired & after running for about 2 weeks there was problem starting. It cud still start with some diffculty, so got the fuel pump and regulator chged but also unable to solve. The starting diff was then traced to the water temp sensor. Cold starting is fine but when engine got hot it cudnt start and upon disconnect the plug to water temp sensor the car started straight away. Connect back the plug the engine's still running with the TCS and slip check lites on. There cud be a circuit joinning the temp sensor to the TCS control module which is connected to the throttle motor control butterfly flap which wl not open if there's any problem with the circuit. The engine's EGI wire loom is prbly screwed and have got a new loom on order to try and solve this problem totally. So perhaps cud try this trick of disconnectg the temp sensor connector, start the car, plug it back, check lites on, warm up car, off engine, turn it back on & check lites off.... But really need to find out the actural problem affecting cold stars.

I've a gtt auto and its now having starting difficulties. Initially its was just the wiring to cas which was temporary rewired & after running for about 2 weeks there was problem starting. It cud still start with some diffculty, so got the fuel pump and regulator chged but also unable to solve. The starting diff was then traced to the water temp sensor. Cold starting is fine but when engine got hot it cudnt start and upon disconnect the plug to water temp sensor the car started straight away. Connect back the plug the engine's still running with the TCS and slip check lites on. There cud be a circuit joinning the temp sensor to the TCS control module which is connected to the throttle flap which wl not open if there's any problem with the circuit. The engine's EGI wire loom is prbly screwed and have got a new loom on order to try and solve this problem totally.

With our tax structure most Gtts went downunder & one even gone to S.Africa! Msia sure hv more Gtts now than Spore. Last year i've gone for mitup with ur skyline kakis during JGTC...

Currently in Spore left only less than 15 Gtts and mine's the only one on ultimate.

There is a dearth of good tuners in Spore and the one i've is one of the better ones... Only lately the local tuning scene has been using the ultimate and seems its more easier with the evos, rexes and legacies(liberties) here.... We've tried the boost cut limiter cut setting from 2 to 5v and it doesnt seem to work so tat's why tried to connect FCD to map sensor wiring. Is it ok to connect fcd to AFM wiring instead? Wl try sorting out the anti engine stalling setting feature of the ultimate and as your screen shot shows the same for the boost cut limit setting panel, any shortcut help wud be most appreciated. As for the 12v setting any explanation for changing to this from factory 5v is most welcomed. Thanks in advance.

Hi Trent, Got the car started as it turned out the wiring to CAS was shot and got the wireman to trace the break and repair. Gone back to factory setting of 5v and initially after starting a bit of misfiring but went off after warming up. Currently have 5 stock coils and 1 splitfire on and the splitfire is starting to melt. The plug cover is off the engine to aid cooling. Wl try to source for a stock coil to replace. So did the setting has an effect on the splitfire and misfiring and appreciate if you could provide a reasoning for the 12v setting to convince my tuner to change it. Some problems cropped up with the ultimate: - there is a fuel cut when boost hit 0.9 bar on half throttle and when my tuner tried to connect a boost cut defender to the map sensor wiring the car cant start. Had a FCon S previously and boost cut was not a problem then hitting 1.4 bar and my tuner who used to tune SZ is now looking into the S for some guidance. Hope u can help me out there... - upon lift off throttle on boost and braking at low speed the rpm dropped and almost stalled. Shift to neutral and rpm rises. With the S same problem but was helped by EIDS and when tried to connect EIDS to ultimate's AFM wiring there was misfirings so appreciate your advice on any solution to this. Engine mods: er34 gtt auto gt-rs greddy 2bar map sensor with stock AFM 550cc sti injectors hks fuel rail hks 250l/h pump hks 1.2mm head gasket sard fuel regulator hks fmic and pod filter greddy rs bov plump back low compression on no. 2 cyl (120psi and rest 140-160psi) Mileage abt 300k and engine complete overhaul at 220k Appreciate your advice.

Once the non-starting issue is resolved the setting wl revert back to factory of 5v....

Sori for the mixup, the adapter that was fixed up is the mini-board clipped onto the motherboard. As for the splitfires apparently the silicone cladding cannot withstand the hotter temps generated under boost/rev cuts conditns and stock ones fared better. The splitfires composite material melt on the top part just below the connectors. Both the stock coils and splitfires were rated at 5v and my tuner was apprehensive abt changing the setting to 12v and wanted me to indemnify him in this instance... Burning out coils is the lesser consequence than a fried ecu....