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brian_s30z

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About brian_s30z

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20E

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  • Car(s)
    1972 Datsun 240z rb26
  • Real Name
    Brian
  1. Thank you sir. Would it be sluggish at all rev range? So to change it's within the software now since i no longer have CAS? Tuner verified it matched, but never checked at idle. "As long if it matches then you're ok" ...CAr is definitely sluggish. They do match when timing is locked, but without it being locked I am at 12 degrees. I have seen a few haltech videos on how to set TDC, but still not comfortable doing it myself so I'm calling a shop and have them help over the phone while with software and car. Thank you for this information. What is "MBT"? So to be sure. All Rb26 at idle should be 15-20Degrees no matter what ECU one is running, correct?
  2. Hello All, I've tried searching but couldn't find the answer and on a forum (not related to ignition timing) I've tried asking, but still don't quite understand. So I have a PRP trigger kit (Cam and Crank) on an Haltech Elite 2500 that I question how they both work together. If I were to go to the car and shine timing light to pulley, without hooking up my laptop to haltech, it would read 12~btdc. If I go into haltech and set ignition lock enabled (it's greyed out at 10degrees so enabling it locks at 10) and I aim timing light it matches at 10 degrees btdc which per my understanding and asking tuner is fine. Per FSM base ignition timing is 20BTDC on a OEM CAS and ECU. So when does that figure not matter anymore? Is it because I have a standalone ECU and they are in Synch? Now onto the PRP trigger and other trigger kits, they have slots for adjustability but what are they for? OEM you would adjust CAS here to get you the desired ignition timing. I've seen Trigger kits where the bolt would be at the edge of each slot where mine is centered.. Thanks in advance.
  3. Thank you. thanks for the suggestions. Don't plan on reaching limit or be competitive. Block and Head will be machined for ~+1mm on oil returns. I think I'm going to move the breather location back to stock, just half a -10 hole size forward on intake cover. I checked my V-cam cover and the "POWER" logo sits right where my welded AN is. "I would also add a line just before the turbo after the catch can to try and ensure that crankcase pressure is at least atmospheric." not sure how to add a line here?
  4. Dry sump is an option, but I’ve already invested in a 7litre sump, spline drive and oil pump. Then I need to restore and paint the car so don’t really want to spend more.
  5. Hello All, I have a single turbo rb26 240z (432z tribute car) that I'm going to rebuild to my planned second phase which consist of forged internals, HKS Vcam Step 2 , and oil control. My Question is my valve covers were modified by engine swap bracket company to clear the hood release bracket, so they now sit directly above the oem mesh screens, is there anything wrong with this setup? With New V-cam valve cover I would have to mod again, so holding off for now. Will upgrade to High Octane baffles. Will be a track car mainly so oil control is a big reason for the build
  6. Checked my ignition timing and it was on 10btdc. The haltech has it on 10degrees too. Tuner is going to verify and fix, hopefully that is the reason 8474 is coming on late
  7. Thanks Geoff. Never heard of exhaust smoke test, but doesn’t look complicated. Will give it a go with two test hopefully by this weekend.
  8. Makes sense. I have 10.15 psi spring on each wastegate. So I’m not sure why it’s going all the way to 15lbs without ebc connected. I have a haltech/Mach 3 port solenoid. Should I go to 8psi spring?
  9. I do have a boost solenoid but per the psi I wanted 1bar, the springs are all that’s workingboost control. Hopefully cam adjustment will do the trick, once I fix leak and o2 sensor I’ll try to dyno again. But with cam adjustment I still think I’m a bit off. I’ve read folks with 9174 with unopened rb26 hit full boost low to mid 4K rpm
  10. Hello all, I have a 1972 Datsun 240z with rb26 on an efr 8474 ewg with sinco custom dual 38mm tial and 3.5” exhaust. Unopened motor r33gtr rb26, has r35 coils, prp trigger kit, 180amp alternator, elite 2500, id1050x. Hks step 1 264 cams, adjustable cam gears( not adjusted). Had my first dyno tune with the car/engine a few days ago to 415rwhp and 352ftlbs of torque on 15lbs, USA dyno, 91oct. The concern I have is the time it takes to hit full boost on the efr8474, I’m not hitting full boost until 5,500rpm (15lbs no ebc, just wastegate springs). I was expecting this turbo to hit full boost around 7-800 rpm sooner at that boost level. I have a small vacuum leak and my wideband wasn’t working are the only issues I had... is there something possibly wrong or is this rpm boost expected with my setup?
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