MrStabby
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Posts posted by MrStabby
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I asked for an exhaust shop recommendation in the NSW forum - if you search you should find it.
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My guess is its just some water splashed up on the inside then dried off. The paint stripes (there's three IIRC) are temperature indicators. Google for details on that.
If there's no issues with brake operation and feel, I would ignore.
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there was no such thing as an "N1" tie rod end, they've invented it.
Any replacement is fine, no upgrading required.
Looks like "N1" is just the company's name.
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Thanks lads,
I want to Preferably use the right tool as they are in pretty good nick and I'm trying not to mark them,
Cheers Adam, if there's nothing closer by next week I'll come get them off you.
No problems.
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Got some in Marrickville if you cant find anything closer.
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unfortunately he would owe me a hks step 2 crank and a gt block... but thats like what ? 8 thousand dollars? he doesnt make that in a year, 3rd world country man, im just going to put a stock freshened up short block, goin to tune it down from 750whp to 550 witht the water meth injection low timing itll last years, i have to sale the car anyways moving to austin texas, got an awesome job at boostlogic, wana hop into an r35 as soon as i get their
He doesn't have insurance?
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awesome soo i can use my rods? on an 2.6 build?
mechanic put the lines on the oil relocator kit wrong
So the mechanic owes you a new crank then right? That's a noob error.
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Is there enough room to make one of these fit? Since its so short and twisted i'm not sure it would.
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Cars not here, my wife has it atm. But I'm 90% sure they're Ziex.
I have 4 brand new Conti's on my Bora (currently lifeless in my driveway) but they're slightly too big (225 > 215) which sucks as I'd love to swap them over.
Urggh Ziex are legendary for being crap. Change them out straight away, esp on the family car.
If the 225s are an acceptable profile, they may well be fine. Plug the details into the one of those online tyre calcs and see. IIRC +/- 4% in rolling diameter is legal (but check that I remember that correctly).
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Remember that ABS and traction control only work on the force that's in the direction of rotation of the tyre. The sideways forces produced by cornering are at 90 degrees to the direction of rotation. So, say you enter a corner with no brakes and no accelerator, then ABS and traction control are useless, and yet its easy to imagine how you could get a sideways slip going on a wet road even though you're not braking or accelerating.
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Pad manufacturers usually publish the co-efficient of friction specs for their pads. so just compare those for street pads at street temps, and go with something with the higher number. Or just buy any street pads, they will all have better cold bite than the track pads you have. Give it a good bleed when you change them.
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I've had three turbo changes up to date. In the particular area of boost control:
When there are less back pressure in the turbine housing then there are less force applying to open the gate. The larger "GT35" turbine wheel referred to, have caused a drop in exhaust gas pressure, more inlet manifold pressure is required to force the gate open, there for higher boost level. Difference between a spring hooked actuator and an stiff actuator is, the spring's extension load is not linear, It requires a huge amount of energy to pull 10mms then 3mms.
My 2c
For normal linear springs, force = spring rate x displacement (that is, the amount of stretch), Now since you effectively have two springs operating in parallel in the external spring setup, the force will be the sum of both of the spring rate x displacement calculations. This will typically be non-linear, but non-linearity could be beneficial in some cases. The choice of preload and rate on the external spring can be used to tune the system's response. Since you've changed a fundamental (lower back pressure) you also need to change the actuator setup. In this case it sounds like you need less force, so you would use a lower rate spring and/or less preload.
On any turbo setup whenever a fundamental property of the system is changed (eg back pressure, gate size etc) you should start from the assumption that an actuator tweak is going to be required, external spring or not, then only leave the actuator setup as is if its shown to still work with the new setup.
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The consumer law is strong - push hard and use it. Expect to be bullshitted and pushed back against. Get all your monies back. Boycott Goodyear when buying tyres. Get on with your life.
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foe dat turn in doee!!!
Because Wakefield Park has many tight-ish turns, toe out should help with the initial turn in..
Does this equate to more grip when turning in, or is it a steering feel thing? Ie will you go faster than with zero toe?
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Hi Ali,
Please quote for 4 x 245/40/18 with fit and balance. Ill come by the shop with the rims.
tnx
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Response from Toyo - no clear answer to this, which is good in a way - I don't feel like an idiot anymore.
"Hi Adam,
What sort of failure?
It sounds like the failure was casing disintegration?
22psi cold is good, 30hot hot is spot on
Assuming you checked the pressures that day and the failure was casing disintegration, the only logical cause is a puncture.
Regards,
Steven Burke
Tyre Technical Manager | Toyo Tyre & Rubber Australia Limited" -
Well there you go - thanks V28.
And i was thinking that 30-32 hot was what i should be aiming for. I think i'm going to have to get something to check hot temperature across the tread and work it out for myself.
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They are 255/35 on R34 GTR 9 inch rims, which is my old track setup. I was going to use them until they wore out and then put something like Hankook RS-3s on for street.
Here's what was left
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Occasionally the car magazines do back to back reviews including track work. No doubt the tyres evolve all the time so any review is only relevant for a period of time, but my impression of the P Zeros is that they're a good tyre that's generally up with the leaders (but not THE leader) and way overpriced compared to their equals. Of course any up to date comparisons may disprove that impression either way.
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R888s cold at 22psi all round. A warm up lap or two then destroyed one of the tyres as i started to push a little. The instructors said that the tyre failed because 22psi is too low and I probably pulled one side off the rim. Said I need start on at 26psi, heat them up, then bleed back to the desired hot pressure. Is that a thing? I haven't heard of it before.
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So your saying a drive shaft that is physically connected to the diff and wheels doesn't spin in neutral?
Check again young grass hopper [emoji106]
Do these vibrations come if the car is sitting still and you rev to 4K as you mentioned that's when it's worse?
Only the engine, flywheel and pressure plate spin when in neutral. Clutch plate, input shaft, driveshaft etc are still.
Sorry OP - I didnt read carefully enough and missed it was in neutral. So agree it sounds like out of balance flywheel or pressure plate.
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Did you mark the driveshaft flanges before you separated them, then put them back at the same orientation? If not, try disconnecting, turn through 90 degress, then reconnect.
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Yeah there's a donut shaped bump stop that sits around the piston under that boot. You can buy new ones and IIRC the ID seemed like the important dimension when i replaced the ones in my teins. I went to the local pedders and went through their box of odd used but serviceable ones, choose something that looked about right then trimmed it down to the right height with a hack saw.
Loud squishy noise could be a mix of air and oil going thru the valves since some of the oil has leaked out. Any signs of leaking? Anyway after you pull it out move the piston fully out then fully in to how it feels.
Bcnr33 Wheel Fitment Help!
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
The 265/35/18 Dunlop 03Gs im running are rated by the manufacturer as fine for 10.5s (but that is the limit). I checked a few others and they were also ok, but OP will need to do his own checks since he's running 19s.
Agree with comment about getting the right wheel tho - my rims are +25 and rub on the outside of the guard liners near the guard lip at the track. Yeah its a 32, but does a 33 have 28mm more space?